attworth

I've read the sticky, and I'm confused. Stock L28 injectors are rated at 188cc according to the sticky, and according to AtlanticZ's site. Also on AtlanticZ they are stated to be 36 lb injectors. How is that possible? Looking around at other injectors, for instance - Lucas 30#/315cc p/n D1720BA from fiveomotorsports.com. Those are listed at 30 lbs, 315cc. Unless I'm just really ignorant, aren't CCs/Lbs a constant? Anyway, in addition, I'm looking to replace my injectors. At least two of them are leaky, and none of them are flowing correctly. I was hoping to find a cheaper alternative to replacement injectors, and cannot have mine sent off to be cleaned and such, as I need to be able to drive the car. I can't really tell what a good size injector would be for me because of all of the conflicting data. I look at some 30 lb injectors and see 315cc - wayyy too much. Then I look at some 200cc injectors that are around 18lbs. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I can't seem to find any information about de-webbing an intake. I think I'd like to try this on a spare intake I have laying around. Anybody have any pointers, or can lead me in the right direction? Thank you.

Thanks for the info guys. I think I'm going to buy the wheels and see how they fit, then decide on some tires.

How wide are your wheels? And thanks for the info.

I'd check all the electrical leads before trying and replacing the bulb. HID's are a different animal than halogens.

I'm not sure of the situation with your niece but I will offer you what I went through and continue to go through with my step-father. My dad died in 06. He was my best friend, but not the type that just let me run wild. We had a true respect for eachother that went deeper than anything I can even explain. My mother was re-married a few months following his death, and I was basically forced to live with another man I barely knew. I ended up leaving and doing my own things for about 6 months before I ran back home. It was a wonderful healing experience not having to be subjected to both the pain of losing my father, and the pain of my mother marrying this "other guy." But it was possibly more rewarding coming back home to my mom and her husband. Here I sit, almost 3 years later, and I've come to really respect and love my step-dad. It's not because I had some enlightening experience, or have even fully healed from the pain. It's because he was patient with me. I think that is the key to any "new" relationship. He knew I hated him for a while, because truly I did. I loathed his very being. But he was still patient, still willing to listen to me. I fought and I fought and no matter what I did, he was always patient. He slowly pushed his rules on me. Not forcefully, and not all at once. Little by little, he showed me how things ran in his house. I still have little quarrells with the way he does things, but ultimately I've come to respect everything that he has to say, even if it's outlandish. I've since gotten married and moved on, but I still go to my mom's house to see her and her husband. The point I'm trying to make is that you should try to be patient with your neice as she gets acclimated to her new environment. Just remember that we are all primal on the inside and if given the chance, we can and will act on those primal tendancies. I wouldn't say you need to play the ultimate dicatator in her life - she's beyond that at 17. The best thing you can do in my opinion is always be a sounding board, always be open to her thoughts and ideas, but don't be afraid to tell her how things are supposed to be done. In that note, don't get angry if that's not how it gets done - at least not outwardly. You're not looking for a friend, but you are looking for a strong relationship. I feel that anger doesn't do anything but hinder that process. I wish you all the best in your situations.

I got my first 280ZX when I was 14. I mowed a lot of lawns to buy that 600$ rat trap. My dad helped me out with it and taught me a lot. I ended up selling it for 1200$, which I used to rebuild the motor in my Husky 125. I sold that for 1500$, and bought my second Z (77) when I was 15 for 600$. I could never get it running right, and my dad's job was real demanding at the time. I sold it for $1200 as a down payment for a 98 Nissan Sentra. August of 06, I was 17 and my dad passed away. I received a big sum of money, and used about half of it for college, and the other half for an 88 turbo 300ZX in my dad's honor (we always thought a turbo car would be fun.) Oct. 14th it was totaled in a t-bone accident (not my fault.) 07 I bought an NA 87 car to swap all the good parts from my 88T into. I took it to the dealer to have the Tbelt changed, they put it on wrong apparently and ended up bending two valves upon first startup. I ended up selling it to my brother shortly thereafter. Last summer I bought my 81 ZX for 550$ to start a new project in my dad's honor. I find it fitting that I'm back in nearly the exact same car as the one that my dad and I got started on. I find that it's a lot easier for me to do something if I do it for somebody else. He was always a mopar guy, so he hated my first Nissan. It didn't take long for him to fall in love with it. These days when I work on it, I know he'd be proud of the work I've done and would bend over backwards to help me with this project.

See, we're not that complicated.

I see a lot of posts regarding wheels/tires on S30s, but not many for the S130 guys. I think I want to get either some 15X7s or 16X8s, both with 0 offset. I'm wanting to run a 235/60/15 or a 235/55/16. Both are about 26" tall and 9.25" wide. I think the 16x8s would look better, but they're a bit pricier, and so are the tires. I'm also worried that the 16x8s with that combo will stick out beyond the fender, although I really haven't a clue. I'm also worried the 26" tall tires aren't going to work well with the Tokicos I want to run eventually (reds/blues.) The car is currently on stock suspension and will be for a while. Any help/advice/pictures anybody? I'm not really sure how the cars differ in terms of tire/wheel fitment.

In a good market, I'd say you could pull several K for it. It looks to be pretty clean and well done.

Very nice. Thanks

That's where I saw it! In their spring sale ad. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PP1/10-2077

I once saw an alternator bracket that was basically an adjustable rod from the motor to the bolt on the alternator, with an adjusting screw. I can't seem to find that anymore. Any ideas?

Thanks for all the input. I still have a TON of Por-15 leftover un-opened. I think I'll use that instead after stripping the undercoating. Texas does has rusty cars, just not nearly as bad as other areas. Many people think its okay to store their cars in a wet pasture on flat tires. Nothing like tall, wet grass rubbing the bottom of your car for a few years.

I'll have an extra N42 in a week or so. Looking to have it ported, maybe do some work with the valves, mild cam, etc. All to be used on top of an F54 with flat tops. Just a mildly built, somewhat high compression motor. 10ish:1 with calculator, not taking into account the valve work. I'm not a builder, so I'd prefer to let somebody who knows what they're doing mess with it.

I plan to use 3M undercoating to coat the underside and engine compartment, and probably any other unpainted surface I can find on my car. I was wondering if this stuff actually "stops" rust from getting worse. I.e., say there's a bit of rust on the inside floor of the car. Not through the surface rust, still solid metal. Is it okay to spray this directly on top of that? Or would using POR-15 or something similar be a better idea in these areas? Here's what I pulled from 3M's website. "VOC compliant product. Black, multi-purpose, low cost, aerosol undercoating. Specifically used for undercarriages, wheel wells, frame rails, and fenders. Designed to protect metal from corrosion and abrasion. Can also be used as a sound dampening coating." Does not really mention "killing" rust. Edit: Is it okay to spray this on top of the old undercoating? As in, if I can tell without a doubt that there won't be any rust under the old coating, is it ok to spray this on top of it, as well as on top of the bare metal?

Hmm... don't think I've seen you. I'm in Fossil Creek. Fossil Creek Rd and N Beach

Guess it wasn't you then.. I haven't seen it in a while. I do see a greyish/silverish S130 every couple days.

Josh I live near Keller. What do you drive?

All the gold "plating" makes it look like an old steam train, or Model T. Definitely too "old" for a Z. I might pay half the asking price.

Here's my current S130. I may be buying another in a week or so, and parting this one out. It's got some pretty bad rust, and is missing about 90% of the interior. Runs good though. And here it is the day I bought it.

I hope this is the right section to post this in. Pretend we've got a nicely running L28, that is mostly stock. We've also got an LC-1 we're attempting to use to optimize the stock motor. How do you actually "tune" the car without a dyno? Just by feel? How do you know that you're not pushing the AFR's too far beyond mechanical limits? Obviously I guess the car wouldn't run very well, but I imagine some damage could be done by tweaking without really knowing how it's affecting the motor. EGTs could get pretty high if you're not careful, but I'm no expert. I'm sure there's other aspects I'm overlooking. Anyway, thanks for any help.

I keep seeing an orange S30 near Fossil Creek, (Fort worth, TX.) Sounds like it has an RB in it possibly. Anybody?

I think I've seen that place. Pretty sweet S30 he's got there. My wife loves the color. Are yall in any groups or meets locally?

I've finally decided where I'd like to take my current car (81 ZX NA) to in relation to performance. Specifically, I'm looking to keep a stock bottom end with a mildly build head. I'm not real savvy on the work required to unleash the potential of a Z motor, so I was hoping for some shop recommendations. I'm not looking to build a beast, just hoping for some advice and possibly machine work in my area. I understand that the NA L28 is not really the platform for creating gobs of power in terms of cost/benefit. Thanks all Tony