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proxlamus©
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Posts posted by proxlamus©
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well I have a GNOSE going on soon.. so no need to worry about a fiberglass or 240z bumper
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I've always wondered what my Z would look like WITHOUT the big crash bumpers, and since I will be taking my car out to the track in a week or so, I can toss out some extra weight for a while...
SOO.. what ya guys think?! Put the old one back on?! Or keep it the way it is?!
This is just temporary by the way, but it's growing on me.
BEFORE
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LoL.. thanks guys...
I never expected soo many replies!!
I think I will go out and order the Daiken clutch.. its nearly half the price of the ACT and it seems like the ACT clutch is way too stiff for a streetable car.. esepcially with my daily drives downtown to school in Denver traffic *shivers*
LoL.. thanks Bastaad for the suggestion..
my only worry.. it's the quality of the clutch disc is crap.. and it will fly apart..
but if i buy a Daiken pressure plate, and ACT street clutch disc... i'll be ok =)
but I'll try Daiken out
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Tony D mentioned that a turbo spinning in a vaccum has it's disadvantages
The reason for the throttling before the turbo is the SAME reason the CART people do it: they have a blowoff valve on the inlet manifold. If it lifts, you LOOSE POWER, and have a good chance that it will not reseat.The throttling of the turbocharger inlet insures that the boost will NOT lift the pop vavle, allowing you to run the absolute maximum ammount of boost, without EVER chancing a boost-spike that would blow your valve.
I discussed this earlier with someone who wanted to argue about conterflow injection, and grinding sparkplug tips...
Anyway, the added advantages of running the turbo under a vacuum aren't that great, because you then have to use another seal to keep oil from getting sucked into the compression chamber---the main reason is to not lift the blowoff valve.
The CART engines use Barrel Throttles, BTW, not butterflies. There is no throttle shaft in the way to disrupt the airflow---this may be the same in the engine pictured, I haven't looked.
CG and simplicity of operation has nothing to do with it, it keeps pboost under the popoff level no matter what.
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http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=tp&Category_Code=FTG
I used 18mm fittings for my Z31 watercooled center section..
but check out that ATPturbo.com site I posted and take a look at the fittings.. they have tons in stock
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check the PCV too.. make sure it's breathing properly...
mine did the same thing.. but i had too much positive pressure inside the block.. and the oil was not draining.. which meant it came out of the turbo and into the exhuast and burned...
on start up.. got worse as it warmed up...
bad valve seals will smoke bad when sitting for a few hours.. and the oil drips onto the cylinders and burns on start up..
bad seals also means it smokes on deceleration... but so did my bad PCV setup.
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Bastaad you have a very good point...
when I was just browsing around to look at the Daiken PP specs I could not seem to find a good source.
Where did you order yours from?!
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As you can see from picture #1 the engine has individual TB's (note the linkage) you can see the orange cable going from the linkage, the same cable attached to the TB in front of the turbo in pic #2.
When the ITB's close, so does the one before the turbo, shutting off airflow to the turbo. With no more air coming in, the turbo spins in somewhat of a vacuum allowing it to sustain rpms (no air to slow it down). This is one form of anti-lag system (another being dumping fuel into the turbine on lift, WRC-style) used in different types of racing.
=)
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http://www.gurneyflap.com/bmwturbof1engine.html
It's on a BMW F1 engine... BUT WHY?!
I don't get it.. it's weird
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he has some lovely coil overs.. which i drool over every time i see pics of his absolutly stunning ride...
darn you Alex!
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have you tried the http://www.msefi.com forum?! they have TONS of answers!
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now thats a nice intake AND exhuast manifold! wow! im jealous
that exhuast manifold will let ya run an external wastgate which is awsome!!
plus if ya dyno it.. at higher RPM's watch that tubular header GLOW! hahaha
how much ya snag em for?! looks like the intake manifold uses the stock intake manifold thing.. i forgot what it's called.. Lol.. anyway.. looks like the runners were cut off and a new sheetmetal one was made! how cool!
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do you have pics of any of the connections or the install?!
Take a pic of the HEI and the coil or something.. maybe there is a wire mix up..
or a bad ground or connection
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LoL.. sorry man!!
Maybe I should of mentioned that in my thread... but did you get it up and running?!
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That's weird... very weird..
When tuning airplanes with carb's... I know during the run up.. we rev it up to 1,700 RPM and start leaning the mixture out.. and we lean the mixture out untill I start to see the RPM's drop... then I add a bit more fuel back till it's at peak RPM or 1,700 RPM. Then I add 3 half turns of the mixture screw or basically just add some more fuel to be safe and not lean out too much....
Just like when tuning your AFM... at IDLE, finger the AFM flap and move it around rich or lean. You will notice when you lean the mixture, the idle RPM increases and the engine seems to run very very smoothly.
Now REV the engine and hold the engine at 2,500 RPM and do the same thing... when you add more fuel, the idle will sputter and run rough. Make it LEAN and the RPM's will run much much smoother and literally seem to rev up to 3,100 RPM!
You goal is to keep it a little bit rich, but have an excellent idle and good higher RPM range... and do this by moving the AFM wheel.... try leaning it out 4 teeth. Once you move, and tighten the spring/wheel now do the same steps over again.
With the now tighter spring, try using your finger to make it lean.. if you can't tell a difference, your a bit too lean. If you lean it by hand and the idle picks up a little.. not too much your perfect. Now try the same thing under 2,500 RPM or even 3,500 RPM and see how it does.
The stock EFI loves to idle rich... so don't forget if you lean it out at idle.. it will run even more lean at higher RPM's... so you have to be very careful. Make it rich at idle.. and a little lean at higher RPM's.
your FMU will be sure to compensate for the extra fuel needed under boost.. since that is what they are designed for.
As for the smell.. very strange.. maybe your running even richer?!
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thanks guys!
thanks for the link Sims!
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I am going to order the ACT 6 puck clutch and pressure plate from :
http://www.clutchcityonline.com/ACT/nissan/280zx.htm
Heavy Duty Pressure Plate w/ 6 Pad Race Disc Kit
- (quick engagement; for race cars)
63%
512 ft-lb
$314.00
OR ... since it is a daily driver should I just go out and buy the
Heavy Duty Pressure Plate w/ Modified Street Disc Kit
63%
400 ft-lb
$358.00
I also wanted to make sure.. I have a 1977 5-speed transmission, and I did a search and found out some trannies have dis-engagement problems. Will my clutch fork and master/slave cylinder handle the new pressure plate?!
are there any other mods I should know about before I order it as in driveability and modifications I need to do!?
Im hoping drop the tranny and install the new clutch within an afternoon since i just did the swap a few months ago.. but the clutch is slipping already.. N/A clutch and turbo = clutch eatin alive
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Z31 downpipe installed in my 280Z... fits fine..
the turbo drain line... yes you do need to modify.. i just cut the elbow off and clamped on a hose.
i used the stock Z31 wastegate.. and reclocked it a bit.. works fine...
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i'm running a Z31 watercooled turbo...
same specs as the 280ZX T3 turbo.. just has oil and water for coolant... lasts longer and you don't have to let the car idle for ever upon shutdown.
84-85 Standard T3
86 watercooled T3
87-89 smaller and watercooled T25
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the Gunmetal's are on backorder for 60 people right now.. 60!!
So i dunno.. should I get silver.. or be patient and wait for gunmetal?!
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im wondering the same question..
do I have to re-thread a new hole in my block?! how can I do this?
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hey man it's YInSaNeAsYLuM from online..
anyway.. i wanted to talk to you about the hood you are offering..
I want to order one! ASAP!
Ill be on wednesday.. so hopefully we can work somethin ouy
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they fit perfectly.. soo snug
as for 17psi! sure!.. but ill never find out.. LoL...
ok maybe next summer
The sound of My Worked Engine
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Dude.. your in this forum too?!
Guys.. he just came from ClassicZcars.com and has been leaving weird weird *** posts...
So um.. i dunno.. no offense man.. but u've left very weird posts.. and i honestly dont trust your links.
hence.. this thread : http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18574