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proxlamus©

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Posts posted by proxlamus©

    The sound of My Worked Engine

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Dude.. your in this forum too?!

     

    Guys.. he just came from ClassicZcars.com and has been leaving weird weird *** posts...

     

     

    So um.. i dunno.. no offense man.. but u've left very weird posts.. and i honestly dont trust your links.

     

    hence.. this thread : http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18574

     

    Here's an idear

    Take a 2 litre coke bottle and cut it in half.

    Put a rubber diaphram (air tight) over the cut end.

    Aim neck carefully at a candle and tap it with a few fingers,

    acording to the web site at

    http://www.cs.wits.ac.za/~jon/science/experiments/

    you can put out a candle at upto 2m because it generates a vortex

    this web site has sum good things to try

    "put 3 drops of NACO4 with ....... and Run"

     

    So im thinking ........got piles of junk around

    Im so lazy ........slack .....got no money.....and the rest.....

     

    So if we put a speaker in place of the diaphram.

     

    http://images.myphotoalbum.com/s/sm...ffer1.thumb.jpg

     

    hmmm.....more power to inject into my engine

     

    http://images.myphotoalbum.com/s/sm...rbo_1.thumb.jpg

     

    hmmm what would i drive it with, AC/DC, Metallica, sum heavy metal song

    with lots of bass boost maybe

     

    hmmm my soundblaster 5.1 se has +18 db of boost in the parametric EQ

    Record it at that level if you can by usings another pc

    Then playback the recording hence adding another +18 db of bass.

    It realy makes the subbies move, doors and windows rattle.

     

    I thought i would give you all one of my idears

    Think outside the box

    It could just be a certain waveform needed

     

    I am build a test unit with whatever is within my buget

    and play music to my engine, while logging

    RPM Increase/Per Cyclinder@WOT@45degrees

    sounds complex my

    1st gear runs at about 15 rpm/cyc

    2nd gear runs at about 4.5 rpm/cyc

    3rd gear runs but is self incrimaning

    4th same see above

    5th same see above

     

    I will host the pics at my free photo site

    sounds i would have to send out by email

    But you would have to be on my list to allow you to access to it.

    If you dont think thats fair please let me know

     

    how many km/h you shaved of your 1/4 mile time.

    0 to 100 km/h eg traffic lights to sum speed limit sign or post

    0 to 60 km/h I wouldnt want you to get booked!

    be carefull!

    oh make sure they dont Resurvey the signpost

    had this done to me a few years ago

     

    number of speakers

    power levels

    how much of a breaze on your face and at what distace

    I could say hair but my mate doesnt have any

    output tube size etc

    input tube size etc

    recordings of input and output wave files (recording with you highest resolution) mp3 ok too

    buy $1.00 headphones and use them as mic's

    think of a name to call it we could all vote on it with one of those polls here

     

    go to http://www.turbofast.com.au/freesoftware.html and Turbocalc its fun to play with numbers until the trial runs out, im not reinstalling windows for at least another 3 months

     

    So if it doesnt work i wont give up my day job Cause i dont have one

     

    I still have to fit a 500 cfm holley and 4 fuel pumps into my wagon yet

     

    Have Fun

    About to order a ACT 6 puck clutch and pressure plate.. need some help

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    LoL.. thanks guys...

     

    I never expected soo many replies!!

     

    I think I will go out and order the Daiken clutch.. its nearly half the price of the ACT and it seems like the ACT clutch is way too stiff for a streetable car.. esepcially with my daily drives downtown to school in Denver traffic *shivers*

     

    LoL.. thanks Bastaad for the suggestion..

     

    my only worry.. it's the quality of the clutch disc is crap.. and it will fly apart..

     

    but if i buy a Daiken pressure plate, and ACT street clutch disc... i'll be ok =)

     

    but I'll try Daiken out

    How about a throttle body BEFORE the turbocharger?! they did it but why?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Tony D mentioned that a turbo spinning in a vaccum has it's disadvantages

     

    The reason for the throttling before the turbo is the SAME reason the CART people do it: they have a blowoff valve on the inlet manifold. If it lifts, you LOOSE POWER, and have a good chance that it will not reseat.

     

    The throttling of the turbocharger inlet insures that the boost will NOT lift the pop vavle, allowing you to run the absolute maximum ammount of boost, without EVER chancing a boost-spike that would blow your valve.

     

    I discussed this earlier with someone who wanted to argue about conterflow injection, and grinding sparkplug tips...

     

    Anyway, the added advantages of running the turbo under a vacuum aren't that great, because you then have to use another seal to keep oil from getting sucked into the compression chamber---the main reason is to not lift the blowoff valve.

     

    The CART engines use Barrel Throttles, BTW, not butterflies. There is no throttle shaft in the way to disrupt the airflow---this may be the same in the engine pictured, I haven't looked.

     

    CG and simplicity of operation has nothing to do with it, it keeps pboost under the popoff level no matter what.

    Is it time for new valve seals?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    check the PCV too.. make sure it's breathing properly...

     

    mine did the same thing.. but i had too much positive pressure inside the block.. and the oil was not draining.. which meant it came out of the turbo and into the exhuast and burned...

     

    on start up.. got worse as it warmed up...

     

    bad valve seals will smoke bad when sitting for a few hours.. and the oil drips onto the cylinders and burns on start up..

     

    bad seals also means it smokes on deceleration... but so did my bad PCV setup.

    How about a throttle body BEFORE the turbocharger?! they did it but why?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    As you can see from picture #1 the engine has individual TB's (note the linkage) you can see the orange cable going from the linkage, the same cable attached to the TB in front of the turbo in pic #2.

     

    DSC06081.jpg

    DSC06080.jpg

     

     

     

    When the ITB's close, so does the one before the turbo, shutting off airflow to the turbo. With no more air coming in, the turbo spins in somewhat of a vacuum allowing it to sustain rpms (no air to slow it down). This is one form of anti-lag system (another being dumping fuel into the turbine on lift, WRC-style) used in different types of racing.

    =)

    more new parts

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    now thats a nice intake AND exhuast manifold! wow! im jealous

     

    that exhuast manifold will let ya run an external wastgate which is awsome!!

     

    plus if ya dyno it.. at higher RPM's watch that tubular header GLOW! hahaha

     

     

    how much ya snag em for?! looks like the intake manifold uses the stock intake manifold thing.. i forgot what it's called.. Lol.. anyway.. looks like the runners were cut off and a new sheetmetal one was made! how cool!

    Leaned out the mixture, exhaust smell + idle get's worse???

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    That's weird... very weird..

     

    When tuning airplanes with carb's... I know during the run up.. we rev it up to 1,700 RPM and start leaning the mixture out.. and we lean the mixture out untill I start to see the RPM's drop... then I add a bit more fuel back till it's at peak RPM or 1,700 RPM. Then I add 3 half turns of the mixture screw or basically just add some more fuel to be safe and not lean out too much....

     

    Just like when tuning your AFM... at IDLE, finger the AFM flap and move it around rich or lean. You will notice when you lean the mixture, the idle RPM increases and the engine seems to run very very smoothly.

     

    Now REV the engine and hold the engine at 2,500 RPM and do the same thing... when you add more fuel, the idle will sputter and run rough. Make it LEAN and the RPM's will run much much smoother and literally seem to rev up to 3,100 RPM!

     

    You goal is to keep it a little bit rich, but have an excellent idle and good higher RPM range... and do this by moving the AFM wheel.... try leaning it out 4 teeth. Once you move, and tighten the spring/wheel now do the same steps over again.

     

    With the now tighter spring, try using your finger to make it lean.. if you can't tell a difference, your a bit too lean. If you lean it by hand and the idle picks up a little.. not too much your perfect. Now try the same thing under 2,500 RPM or even 3,500 RPM and see how it does.

     

    The stock EFI loves to idle rich... so don't forget if you lean it out at idle.. it will run even more lean at higher RPM's... so you have to be very careful. Make it rich at idle.. and a little lean at higher RPM's.

     

    your FMU will be sure to compensate for the extra fuel needed under boost.. since that is what they are designed for.

     

    As for the smell.. very strange.. maybe your running even richer?!

    About to order a ACT 6 puck clutch and pressure plate.. need some help

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I am going to order the ACT 6 puck clutch and pressure plate from :

    http://www.clutchcityonline.com/ACT/nissan/280zx.htm

     

    Heavy Duty Pressure Plate w/ 6 Pad Race Disc Kit

    - (quick engagement; for race cars)

    63%

    512 ft-lb

    $314.00

     

     

     

    OR ... since it is a daily driver should I just go out and buy the

    Heavy Duty Pressure Plate w/ Modified Street Disc Kit

    63%

    400 ft-lb

    $358.00

     

     

    I also wanted to make sure.. I have a 1977 5-speed transmission, and I did a search and found out some trannies have dis-engagement problems. Will my clutch fork and master/slave cylinder handle the new pressure plate?!

     

    are there any other mods I should know about before I order it as in driveability and modifications I need to do!?

     

    Im hoping drop the tranny and install the new clutch within an afternoon since i just did the swap a few months ago.. but the clutch is slipping already.. N/A clutch and turbo = clutch eatin alive

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