Jump to content
HybridZ

proxlamus©

Members
  • Posts

    2145
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by proxlamus©

  1. These are beautiful pieces. So pretty, it seems a shame to hide them under my car where nobody can see them! I may start parking over a mirror. The stubs slide in by hand, then a light tap with a hammer sets them past the internal c-clip. Fit is perfect. They came un-painted; I painted the part of the flange that would be exposed after installation. I swapped the input flange from my original R180 onto the STI diff. Needed a flywheel/gear puller to remove each input flange. The input spline count is the same for both diffs. So, if you change the input flange, the stock driveshaft works. Everything bolted right up, easy as pie. All my old hardware fit and there were NO installation issues. The studs on the diff cover are longer on the STi diff, so it is easier to swap them or remove them and reinstall them once the front diff was seated. I have only driven car around the block and did a few donuts in a parking lot; hope to go to 1/8 mile on Thursday if the weather is good. The first thing I have noticed is that new parts (2004) are better than old parts (1972). My old diff sounded like a box of rocks. The new diff is quiet as a mouse. The car used to power oversteer at a whim, and accellerating out a turn was met with severe wheel spin. Now, the car simply hooks up. More to follow after first trip to the track. Motor is stock, but will be "dropping" stock 2+2 clutch from 5000 rpm. I'm really pleased with the quality of the part and how simple the install was.

     

    Wow!! Thats fantastic news!! I just finished my Z32 transmission swap last year or so and had a custom driveshaft made, I was worried I would have to have it modified "again". Good to know I can just swap the input shaft flange!!!

  2. I will prob get some bad responses about this one..

     

    but i've noticed on turbocharged cars.. especially with a larger turbo and a high RPM turbo "threshold" or "lag" ( i dont want to hear it Tony ) .. that while applying adequate pressure with your left foot on the brakes, and moderate pressure with your right foot on the throttle will keep the engine under load and almost instantaneous boost when you let off the brakes.

     

    I know this builds up the heat quite a bit in the brakes.. but the smooth transition from braking to full boost prevents the car from going into a wild oversteer situation...when compared to applying full throttle then a sudden surge of boost and oversteer.

  3. Let me state the question that has been bothering me.. and it looks like some of you guys as well lol

     

    4908. If, while in level flight, it becomes necessary to use an alternate source of static pressure vented inside the airplane, which of the following should the pilot expect?!

    A: The altimeter and airspeed indicator become inoperative

    B: The gyroscopic instruments to become inoperative

    C: The vertical speed to momentarily show a climb << answer

     

    4930. If while in level flight, it becomes necessary to use an alternate source of static pressure vented inside the airplane, which of the following variations in instrument indications should the pilot expect?

     

    A: The vertical speed to momentarily show a descent.

    B: The altimeter to read higher then normal << answer

    C: The vertical speed to show a climb.

     

    The description of the answer from the FAA says the following :

    If the alternate static source is vented inside the airplane, where static pressure is usually lower then outside static pressure, selection of the alternate source may result in the following instrument indications:

    1. The altimeter reads higher then normal

    2. Indicated airspeed greater then normal, and

    3. The vertical-velocity indicator momentarily shows a climb.

    (H859, H931) - FAA-H-8083-15, Chapter 11; FAA-H8083-21

    (H931, H758) - FAA-H-8083-25, Chapter 3; FAA-H-8083-21, Chapter 12

     

    Jeesh a lot of typing. SO anyway.. thats where i'm getting my confusion. Hell.. look at the two different answers on the questions that are virtually identical!

  4. Apparently I've had a three day brain fart.. and I cant seem to wrap my head around this...

     

    I've checked numerous different books and reference articles...

     

    Generally, on non-pressurized aircraft, the alternate static source is in the cabin. When used, this source introduces some error in the instruments because the cabin air pressure is lower than outside air pressure due to airflow over the cabin. Airspeeds and altitudes read higher than normal. The vertical airspeed indicator shows a momentary climb as the alternate static source is opened, followed by stabilization and normal readings thereafter.

     

     

     

    Now I must really really really not be thinking clearly.. but I thought that high velocity, fast flowing air around the fuselage was LOW pressure.. due to Bernoulli's Principle..

     

    the fairly stationary, stagnant air inside the cockpit was HIGH pressure..

     

    Example.. when driving in a car at a fairly high speed, cracking the window open would cause the "high" pressure air inside the cockpit to "blow" out or get "sucked" out to the high velocity, low pressure air outside the car. You can normally feel the air vents displacing more air since the low pressure outside is "sucking" out the high pressure air in the cockpit.

    *here is an article that backs up my statement.. http://www.physlink.com/education/askexperts/ae522.cfm *

     

     

    Someone help me get my head on straight.. even the FAA instrument written exam has this question.

  5. I'm going crazy...

     

    Can someone explain to me the major differences from gold and silver?!

     

    It was my understanding that gold is the best heat reflector followed by silver... but accoring to the specs listed on HPR racings website.. it seems like Silver Foil has better properties?!

     

    So why would NASA, Formula 1 and the McLaren F1 use gold?! I know Silver is nearly twice as heavy as Gold.. but.. what else could it be??!!!

     

     

     

    Reflective Film - Gold

     

     

    This gold reflective film reflects up to 750°F of radient heat and has a heat soak/continuous operating temperature of 450°F. This film will break down at 850°F of continuous radiant heat. There is up to 70°F gradient temperature drop across the 6 mil thick film during normal operating temperatures.

     

    The film weighs about 5 ounces per square yard.

    http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Reflective_Film_-_Gold&form_prod_id=66,7_3153&action=product

     

    Reflective Film - Silver

     

     

    This silver reflective film reflects at least 95% of the radiant energy. This film provides radiant heat protection up to 1050°F and higher for short durations. There is at least a 250°F gradient temperature drop across the 10 mil thick film during normal operating temperatures.

     

    The film weighs about 9 ounces per square yard.

    http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Reflective_Film_-_Silver&form_prod_id=66,7_3152&action=product

  6. I've got a solid '73, barely noticed by the rust demons, but it's frame rails have led a rough life, they're all dinged up. So, to pretty 'em up and add some anti-flex, I've got Hard Dog rail caps going on.

    To continue the theme, I had some engine compartment frame rail caps made up too, out of 14ga. steel. It took me four metal fabrication shops until I found one that could pull it off, duplicating my cardboard templates and fully covering all three sides of the rail. The other shops could only do two full sides and cover only about half of the third side.

    Everything's been coated with 3M's weldable primer, and after it's all on I'll pour in some...POR-15?? where I can and give it a twirl, since this project's on a rotisserie. Could be a real mess to clean up though!

    Steve

     

     

     

    Do you mean Bad Dog rails?

  7. 004__scaled_600.jpg

     

    Yummy. now thats a front spoiler in the 80's

     

     

     

     

     

    I feel that if FWD cars had symmetrical length front axles with a longitudinal engine setup.. or a very well designed front trans axle and a transverse mounted engine.. this would eliminate the wicked torque steer virtually any FWD car has under heavy acceleration and would make life much easier =)

     

    I would be interested in seeing if a Subaru WRX STi with the rear driveshaft disconnected versus a STi with a front drive shaft disconnected... ohh how i ponder

×
×
  • Create New...