[(1 qty) - 9mm connecting rod ... oh please oh please]

Ohh BRAAP.. you dont have any spare rods next to the hundreds of cylinder heads ya have laying around in the shop?!

[Welp.. Im building a Rotisserie from Engine Stands.. **Pics**]

oh my lol..

 

it looks like it!! but its not.

 

I'll take another picture when I get home. I purposely made the bracket that way with the 1x1 tubing at an angle into the 2x2 tubing. I was trying to get the 2x2 as horizontal and flat as possible.

 

I know its not the best design.. but its holding.

 

Ill take a close up picture when I get home =)

[(1 qty) - 9mm connecting rod ... oh please oh please]

240z - 9mm rods.. silly me

[(1 qty) - 9mm connecting rod ... oh please oh please]

I really really need a 9mm connecting rod.. just a single rod since the other 5 are in good condition lol.

 

Anyone have a spare?!

[I cant TIG]

The MIG weld is too hard to hammer on, the TIG can be hammered on because it cools slower and therefore is a lot softer. Also since the MIG is hard, it's also brittle, making it very likely to crack.

 

 

Um.. I dunno about that statement..

 

a molten pool is a molten pool... I dont believe a MIG vs. TIG will "cool" faster or slower.

 

I can understand that a MIG introduces a lot of heat in a larger area, while the TIG introduces the same heat in a smaller area.. but a larger surface dissipating the heat will cool faster then a smaller area.

 

I think its the filler metal you use on the weld that determines how soft or hard the bead is.

 

*from my understanding*

[Subaru WRX STi R180 Side Axles]

not bad!!

 

Looks like its possible to do a full swap for under $1000 if you shop around!!

 

sounds like a great deal to me!

[Welp.. Im building a Rotisserie from Engine Stands.. **Pics**]

I think I have a total of roughly $185 in parts ..

 

 

so it can be done rather cheaply =)

[Slow But Steady Undercoat removal process...]

looks like a strip of fiberglass cloth...

 

that was not properly bonded and mounted to the inner fender =(

[Subaru WRX STi R180 Side Axles]

any idea on pricing yet John?

 

even a rough idea?!

[Can I see some suspension pics please?]

I believe Bobby already posted a pic of his suspension in post #2..

 

ya need a diff. pic?

[Roll bar (main hoop) - Tubing Bender from ebay]

I found a local place who will bend roll cage tubing for $25 per bend..

 

so 4 bends on the main hoop.. 2 bends on the rear harness bar.. plus materials for the diagonal.. etc

 

I can easily do the main hoop, harness bars and diagonal for ~$240-ish!

 

 

not too bad.

 

PS - Bandit.. thanks for the great info!!

[Welp.. Im building a Rotisserie from Engine Stands.. **Pics**]

 

I'm very proud of being able to do this by myself!! Its pretty astonishing to see a car upside down!!! The neighbors keep coming up trying to talk to me about it lol.

 

I sat in my garage for about an hour just staring at it with a nice cold beer. haha.

 

Oh and I cleaned my garage *hears clapping in the backround*

 

 

PS - dont ask about the rear engine stand.. the diagonal support bar has extra steel welded all around it .. cause I ran short of tubing.. so I improvised lol.

[Can I see some suspension pics please?]

here ya go =)

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103860

[Heat/Noise Instulation.. spray on undercoating?!]

I've been looking around at what i want to do in regards to noise/heat insulation..

 

My original plan was to POR15 the rails and pans.. and use HushMat/Dynomat type product on the inside..

 

However I am in love with the clean, glossy, painted interior..

 

I would like to use a product such as Lizard Skin to be sprayed on the bottom of the chassis (since my rotisserie is up and functional)...

 

Since I have virtually no rust underneath the car, other then the frame rails.. I'm wondering if a thick coating of LizardSkin would be a good alternative for noise/heat insulation.. and a good undercoating to prevent future rust.

 

Anyone with any experience?!

[Fiberglass ducting for intercooler piping?]

 

 

here is an example of a Quattro S2 in the old group B days..

 

Kevlar and carbon fiber piping!!

 

I dont see any reason why you cant wax up a steel pipe.. lay the sleeve over.. epoxy... dry.. slide the sleeve off!!

 

one or two layers of fiberglass with an outside of kevlar or carbon?!! perfect!!

[big and nasty headwork]

Paul..

 

what tools are you using to port and grind the head?!

[Welp.. Im building a Rotisserie from Engine Stands.. **Pics**]

Hey John.. I pretty much followed your design the best i could via pictures..

 

could you do me a favor and tell me the center line of your stand? I dont have the height to flip the car upside down.

 

Not like I really need to.. just want to lol.

[Welp.. Im building a Rotisserie from Engine Stands.. **Pics**]

the handle has a rubber grip on one end to prevent them from sliding out.. and also a cotter pin to prevent the other side from falling out.

 

 

to be honest it takes quite a bit of force to rotate the car.. well.. at least keep the car steady.. i guess I am tensing up my muscles to prevent the car from rolling too fast.

 

I did not lubricate the mounts on the stand.. so that may be one reason

[Another Z Painted]

looks great!

 

excellent excellent color choice

[My car is finnaly home from the painter!]

lol.. drug trafficking on hybridz? there's a new one

 

 

Looking great Phil! the wheels look siicckk! paint is a great color

[Subaru WRX STi R180 Side Axles]

wow!!

 

wow oh wow!

[Welp.. Im building a Rotisserie from Engine Stands.. **Pics**]

Well Well..

 

finally got everything welded up and mounted!!

 

It was scary and a pain to do this all by myself... with no help. I would highly recommend two cherry pickers if you are to go this route.. one for the front.. one for the back.

 

Basically I got the car as high as I could with a normal floor jack and 6 ton jack stands. After attaching the brackets, I went ahead and mounted the engine stands on the brackets. You can see how they are laying on their side in the pictures. I figured as I continued to jack the car up the stands would swing into place.

 

I started by buying a 12' stick of 4x4 pressure treated lumber for $12.78 at Home Depot. I cut it up in 4 qty - 3' lengths and stacked them on top of the floor jack. the 3' length is perfect to mount horizontally across the frame rails.

 

The rear of the car was supported by the cherry picker and a tow rope.. as I slowly lifted the front, I would lift the back.. very slowly one side at a time.

 

The 6 ton jack stands almost seem like they are made to have a 4x4 piece of lumber across the stands (jack stand > 4x4 > chassis).. it fits perfect.

 

Eventually I got both stands to swing into place and I pulled out the jackstands and lumber and voila! I was going to weld a cross support to tie the stands together but it was pretty solid as it is.

 

Looks like I did some bad measurements.. the car will not completely flip upside down.. but its fine.. i wouldnt be able to crawl on top anyway lol. Ceiling is too low.

 

Anyway.. here are some pics.

 

[my rust repair patches]

the welds looks a little cold.. if your doing spot welds all around.. wait another second or two on that spot to let it penetrate

 

other then that looks good since your grinding it all off

[Welp.. Im building a Rotisserie from Engine Stands.. **Pics**]

great tip theghosttanker!!

 

John mentioned that on one of his threads when building his.

 

I am definitely tying the two stands together =) no doubt about that

[GTO 250 head light trim ring bead rolling Vice-Grip tool]

page and pictures not found..

 

or bad links =(