Scapy

100W per (@35v), and a 12W (12v) led is equivalent to a 50w (12v) halogen bulb.... sooooo if you do the math you get a nice comparison of how bright they actually are. And yeah My dad lives in Texas and its just as bad because of the insane humidity!

Thanks guys, and sorry I havent been on this forum in a while! Good to know ferrariowner123, For the interior of the car, I would bedline it and then dynamat it! That would create a good sound deadning setup!

In My Dreams!! Hahaha its 105f during the day so I am more of a nocturnal worker.

Hello all, I have a youtube channel dedicated to work on my 1975 280z, my most recent upload is of a tail light conversion along with reverse light experimentation. Everything is described in the videos thoroughly. Just trying to spread the word and give people some ideas, check it out! In this specific video I discuss ideas for the tail lights and electronic control of lights as well as the interface. PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK EITHER ON THIS TOPIC OR EVEN COMMENT ON THE VIDEO! Thank you!

NewZed I didnt even see your post... It was like 1am. My bad. Yeah I'm eventually going to get an internally regulated alternator and wire that up but for now I'm just going to use stock with external until something goes bad. And yeah I didn't even notice but you are right. All of the wires line up on the connector though and are the same color (except for that one I mentioned in my previous post) so this must be some sort of aftermarket upgrade?? Maybe that makes it more reliable than the stock ones that often fail?!?! Update: Just looked up the model number of the regulator and it says that its from a Datsun 620 pickup.

Thank you berrmanpete! liked you for that. I was able to find the following two pictures plus some tests in between to make sure my regulator is the same setup (it looks a lot different then the one in the manual but the wires lined up... except for pin 2 which is a black wire with white stripe but the manual says W/L) Thanks again!! -Scapy (p.s. I'll post here once the car is up and running and let you know how it all turns out)

Project1, Your info is great, but I only have one side of the connector (the Regulator side) so I have no idea which wires form the voltage regulator go where, trust me I've already been through the pictures you've sent me. NewZed I checked up the electrical wiring diagram and found this: The problem I see with this though is the voltage regulator in this diagram has a green/red and a green output. I dont have those. But it seems that those two go to pointless things in my case (stripped car), the yellow, black, and white/black and white though are important and my voltage regulator has those wire colors. Would it be safe to hook up those 4 connections and just run those. Seems like those are the only important ones. The other ones (from my research) are: green/red ignition interlock system (which might or might not need a signal from batt or a switch or something since its a safety standard), and then green which goes to floor temp sensor (for California only??)

Raptor liner by U-pol. Also used the gun that they make.

Just thought I would share the progress on my Z. Let me know what you think and if you have any questions! Also for my build log: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLA2t2X1t2lNRERz8nAF9Ow

Stripped my 75 280z and rewired from the ground up, Just need to know what these 3 pins are for?!?! I'm assuming batt, ground, and signal... but I dont know which is which or if that is even right. Any help would be super appreciated. Also know that a resistor is used somewhere in between the coil and the tach, what kind?

Wiring my alternator from scratch, want to use the stock voltage regulator. Ive done tons of research but it seems I am not able to really find anything on the stock alternator setup. So there is ground and battery as well as a 2 pin output with the labels "F" and "N". Included pictures of alternator as well as voltage regulator and the wire colors. Any help would be appreciated. The car is stripped to barebone so I don't need the warning light and what not... Basically just need to know which wires go where!! Thank you for your time! Pics:

Lol I remember that now (guess I'm a teen with short term memory haha).... Thanks for the response though!

What are these two sensors? Haven't been able to find a solid answer online. I know that one is the knock sensor. And if I'm not mistaken its the one on the bottom right next to the oil filter?!??!!!

I am indeed, but not looking to spend a ton. Willing to buy beat up ones because I can fiberglass. PM me with a price and we will work it out

^ or are they taller as well?

Thanks for the quick replies. Is there any way to modify them or maybe just leave them long (without the license plate bracket and light) to where it will look good?

I was just wondering if the tail light bezels from a 2+2 are compatible with a 2 seater. Having real trouble finding the bezels for a 280z but there is a guy locally on craigslist selling his 2+2 bezels and tail lights!

Might be a little pricey but the new Renovo Coupe has some nice looking headlights, looks like they would fit in a s30 or s130 (link: http://www.carthrottle.com/post/this-500000-electric-supercars-battery-pack-is-as-beautiful-as-any-engine/?utm_content=buffer562c3&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer)

And miles, I did that while it was still in the car I think it worked

Ok so I switched around the calipers (because i had the bleed holes on the bottom) and bled the master cylinder as well.... Now they work perfectly! Thank you again NewZed and cgsheen for the helpful posts.

Hey everyone, so i recently got my 280z with a l28et running.... Thing drives perfectly!!! I cant get my freaking brakes to work though, so ive been driving it around the neighborhood with the handbrake lol.... So I tried bleeding, that didn't work... then I rebuilt master cylinder and put dot3 and bled again, that didn't work.... So I picked up a new master cylinder and put dot4 and bled again and went around and tightened every fitting on the brake system, that didn't work.... What else can be going wrong? There is no leaking throughout brake lines but when pump the pedal hard you can hear some air or bubbles or something near the master cylinder area (I think thats normal though). The reservoirs seem to leak just a tad around the base where they are secured to master cylinder, but i figured that that couldn't have much of an effect (gunna pick up new ones soon). Also when I was bleeding my rears (one at a time), the brakes got to feeling normal, but then when I tightened the little bleeding bolt thing and pumped the pedal again, it was back to its light feeling... When driving around if I press the brake down all the way while using my handbrake the rears skid, but it feels like the fronts are barely resisting. Any advice would be very very appreciated. Thank you in advance! <3

How would I wire my Tach with my setup?

Here is the specification of the adapter block I bought Pac_Man. "Oil T fitting with proper threads for japanese engines. Male thread is 1/8" BSPT. Female threads are 1/8" NPT (side) and 1/8" BSPT (end)"

Alright thanks, so which is which?

My setup that i just received in the mail: (http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=OL-AN4-90S-51&Category_Code=) <---- what line I ordered And just a quick question... What are these two sensor things for??? I'm assuming a knocking sensor and an oil pressure sensor am i right?? If so which is which?