jhaag

Most of these books cover the history and development of the Z and ZX. They are not shop or service manuals. Datsun 280, Nissan 300 ZX, Brian Long, 1999, Dorchester, Veloce Pub., ISBN: 1901295060 Datsun 280ZX, Model S130 Series, Nissan Judosha Kabushiki Kaisha, 1982, Tokyo, Japan, Nissan Motor Co. Datsun/Nissan sports car buyer's guide, John Matras, 1996, Osceola, WI, Motorbooks International, ISBN: 0760301360 Datsun Z: from Fairlady to 280Z, Brian Long, 1998, Dorchester, England, Veloce Pub., ISBN: 1901295028 Datsun Z Series: the complete story, David Styles, 1996, Marlborough, Crowood Press, ISBN: 1861260016 Datsun Z-Cars - by the editors of Consumer Guide, 1981, Secaucus, NJ, Castle Books, ISBN: 0890094373 Essential Datsun Z, 240Z to 280ZX: the cars and their story, 1969-83, Colin Shipway, 1994, Bideford, Devon [England], Bay View Books, ISBN: 1870979516 How to Restore Your Datsun Z-car, Wick Humble, 1990, Tucson, AZ, Fisher Books, ISBN: 1555610269 How to Hotrod & Race Your Datsun. Bob Waar, Steve Smith, Bill Fisher, 1984 Rev. ed., Santa Ana, CA, Steve Smith Autosports Publications, ISBN: 0936834412 Illustrated Datsun/Nissan Sports Car Buyer's Guide, John Matras, 1996, Osceola, WI, Motorbooks International, ISBN: 0760301360 Lust, Then Love: the story of the new Z, Ron Sessions, 2002, Lincolnwood, IL, Publications International, ISBN: 0785375686 Nissan 300ZX, Ray Hutton, 1990, English, Motor Racing, ISBN: 0947981527 Nissan 300ZX, 350Z: the Z-car story, Brian Long, 2004, Dorchester: Veloce, ISBN: 1904788041 Nissan 300ZX & 350Z portfolio, 1984-2003, 2003, Surrey, England : Brooklands Books, Newport Beach, CA, Road & Track, ISBN: 1855206285: Collection of articles reprinted from Road & Track, August 1983--May 2003 Nissan 350Z: behind the resurrection of a legend, John Lamm, 2003, St. Paul, MN, Motorbooks International, ISBN: 0760315752 Road & Track on Datsun Z, 1970-1983, 1985, Cobham, Surrey, England, Brooklands Books, Newport Beach, CA., Distributed by Road & Track, ISBN: 0946489297 Z: 35 years of Nissan's sports car, Pete Evanow, 2005, St. Paul, MN., MBI Pub., ISBN: 0760321817 Z Car: a legend in its own time, Ben Millspaugh, 1991, Blue Ridge Summit, PA, TAB Books, ISBN: 083063536X Z-series Datsuns: a collector's guide, Ray Hutton, 1985 2nd ed., Croydon: Motor Racing Publications, ISBN: 0947981020 Interlibrary Loan: When a book is not available at your local library, in most cases it can be ordered very easily from another library through Interlibrary Loan. Just take the information listed above and talk to a librarian. It might have taken a week or two but I obtained all of these books this way. It is possible (but quite rare) to be asked to pay the postage to ship the book from another library. Virtually all libraries are connected to WorldCat, which is a searchable online database of the libraries that own a particular title. Easy.

Russ: I have a photocopy of a list of articles compiled by Colin Shipway, a member of the Z Car Club of Britain, that was published in Z-Car: a legend in its own time (Ben Milspaugh). If he is still a member of the club, could you see if he would like to load the list? The list was very helpful in tracking down many of the articles related to the 280ZX (my car) from U.S. magazines.

I added a list of about 10 Z-car related books. John

Larry (aka Here Comes Trouble) - I sent you a PM. John

I am interested in hearing about the rebuild as you do it. I wonder if a company that rebuilds rack & pinion steering could answer your question? I don't have any experience with these firms. -http://www.steeringrack.com/ -http://www.steeringgearrebuilders.com/ I just converted my '79 ZX from power recirculating ball to power rack & pinion with a new (modified) steering linkage (I want to add headers). There is a rough feel to it, though, when I turn the wheel so I'm not sure if the rack needs rebuilding or if I need to have a better bearing to support the double u-joint. I'm kind of stumped at this point and mulling things over. John

Vinh: I don't have specific information for you but I wonder if one of the many firms that sell kits of the Daytona coupe (or perhaps the new Superperformance Brock coupe) might be a source for you? They might be able to tell you what they are using. There are a number of firms that construct kits (like the Factory Five coupe) for customers who don't want to do the work themselves (Levy Racing is one example: http://www.levyracing.com/) and they might be able to offer some advice. Levy is featured frequently in Kit Car Builder magazine and seems to have a great reputation. -Factory Five: http://www.factoryfive.com/table/ffrkits/coupe/coupekit.html -Shell Valley: http://www.shellvalley.com/Replicas_and_Jeeps/Daytona_Replica/ -Upstate: http://www.daytona-coupe.com/products/kitdescriptions.html Superperformance: http://www.superformance.com/coupe.aspx Other links: https://www.kitcarclub.com/sections.php?op=viewarticle&artid=25 John

Ben: I sent you a PM John

From the Reader's Rides forum at Grassroots Motorsports. http://www.grmotorsports.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=14266

This was posted on the Grassroots Motorsports site in the Classified section on 12/17. I don't have anything to do with this advertisement except to pass on the information. If interested, you could email him from the Grassroots site at http://www.grmotorsports.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=13722 John Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2005 7:19 pm Post subject: Datsun Z fiberglass body kit -------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a full fiberglass body kit (front air dam, side skirts, rear lower skirt) that was removed from a '76 280Z. The kit had been installed on the car with a combination of sheet metal and drywall screws, and not very many of them. It was NOT Bondoed into place or anything. The kit appears to be all hand-laid cloth, not a chop gun special. The car that this kit was installed on ended up being an abandoned project, so the car never was on the road with the kit installed, ergo no scrapes, cracks, etc. Everything has been painted a lovely early 90's GM looking turquoise, so repainting will probably be neccessary. As for price, how about $250 OBO for the set. It could be shipped, but this would be somewhat costly, as it would need to be packed in 3 large boxes. I am located about 1 hour north of Denver, CO. Feel free to PM me for pictures or additional info Jeff

Ben: What shop did you take it to? John

I'm interested.

I have a ZX and needed a little extra clearance to clear the power rack and pinion I am installing. Kevko (http://www.kevko.net/wetsump_chevy.htm) custom cut one of their baffled deep sump pans (with kickouts, windage tray and crank scraper) so it only had a 4" deep core (instead of the normal 4 3/8"). Total was around $260 and their service was great. John

Thanks, dr hunt! John

I have a deep sump pan with trap doors and a new pickup. The oil pan company (Kevko) suggested that I should run a high volume oil pump so I bought a Melling M-55HV. The engine is an 89 350 TPI that is stock at this time but will see some mild engine modifications someday. I use my car (79 ZX) on the street but I'd like to go autocrossing. Since I bought the pump, I have heard comments on the Third Generation F-Body site that range from 'You'll blow the engine with a high volume pump!' to the other extreme 'You gotta use a high volume pump or you'll starve the engine of oil!.' Hmmmm. So I called Melling and asked the tech rep. He laughed and said that they've been building that pump for years and he hasn't heard of any engine problems. Of course I tend to believe the rep but I wonder what the experts on the forum think (perhaps I'm not totally convinced yet ). Thanks John

Courtney is one of the women featured ("11 Real Women of Hot Rodding" - http://hotrod.com/racers/ ) in the latest issue of Hot Rod magazine, which has an article/photoshoot of women who race or are seriously involved with cars in some way. Her father, Jerry Hansen, won a bazillion SCCA races and championships back in the 60s. I saw him race at Lyndale Farms, Road America and Brainerd (jeez, I feel old!) back when I lived in Wisconsin/Minnesota. The photos of Ashley Force are mighty fine. I predict this issue of Hot Rod will be one of their most popular ones. John

I was in touch with him until about 6 months ago (until stuff in my own life got pretty crazy). I thought his username was something similar to TOMAHAWKZ but I think I must be wrong since it looks like someone else has that username. Last time I heard, things were as 'OK' as they could be, given that he was in prison. At that time, release time was coming up within a few months. I got a strong sense that Larry didn't always see things the way the prison guards and administrators wanted him to see things so I hope he didn't get any extra time. John

For what its worth.....I spoke to someone at the 2004 MSA show who I think was the owner of the green convertible. I asked if the windshield was cut down or if it was sunk into the body (ala some hot rods). The person said the windshield had been cut using water jet technology by a firm in the LA area but that they broke one windshield before they got it right. John

I'd give these two places a call. Danny’s Datsuns Roseburg, OR (541) 430-1180 http://www.webspawner.com/users/dannysdatsuns/ dannye@mcsi.net Kim Blough Idaho Z Car 2913 Garrity Blvd. Nampa, Idaho 83687-2629 1-208-466-0004 Smokyyaro@velocitus.net

I used teflon tape to seal the pipe joints carrying compressed air from my compressor but I have a couple of leaks. A book about painting cars mentioned how great something called 'Gasoila' is for sealing. Has anyone ever heard of it or used it? Does anyone have a recommendation for a better sealant than teflon tape or should I just use more teflon tape than I did? I didn't think I was being overly frugal when I used it but perhaps I was. Thanks John

Got what I needed! Thanks! John

I am installing a power rack & pinion steering system into my ’79 280ZX. The rack is out of an ’81 280ZX turbo and I would like to see the section in the service manual dealing with the removal/installation/disassembly/rebuilding of the power rack. Of course, I have the ’79 service manual but I don’t have the ’81 service manual. I also have a ‘shop manual’ that covers the ’79-’83 models but it is not very detailed. I’m interested in what the real service manual has to say. Could anyone copy and fax or scan and email the pages to me? My work fax is 303-871-4335 (Attn: John) and my email is jhaag@du.edu. A very big thanks to anyone who can help! John

I'm converting my power recirculating ball steering ('79 ZX) to power rack & pinion steering. There is very little clearance (1/16 inch) between the rack and the bottom of the oil pan of the 350 L-98 engine. I'm guessing that the normal movement/torquing of the engine will require more than that. I could either modify the stock pan (small $) or spend bigger bucks to convert to an aftermarket pan such as the Canton road race pan (#15-244 at http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/pans/road_race/sbc_road_race.html ). Ross Corrigan planned to get this one but I don't know if he ever did before his ZX was stolen. How much clearance is enough? Thanks John

Go to my album (jhaag) in the Members Galleries to see the 6 page article in the May, 1983 issue of Road & Track, where the magazine road tested Don Devendorf's 1982 IMSA GTO champion race car. Click on each page to enlarge it enough to read. John

Go to my album (jhaag) in the Members Galleries to see Sam Posey's 11 page article, subtitled 'An insider's look at the development of a race car from concept to the race track' from R&T's July/August issues in 1981. It has a nice cutaway of the car. I think you can just click on each image to enlarge it enough to read. This is my first effort at uploading an image, so I hope it works. John

I think I know the answer but I wanted to check with experienced welders to make sure. As I get ready to build some headers, I am thinking that I would like to tack the pipes together (making sure the joint is very close--no gaps) myself but then take it to someone who could TIG weld it. So far, my MIG welds seem to be strong but I'm not too thrilled with their beauty. Of course, practice makes perfect so I will get better at this, but for headers, I really want the welds to look nice, as well as be strong. So, would having MIG tack welds interfere with a TIG weld? I don't think it would interfere, but...... Thanks! John