jhaag

I'm on the Waytek email list and got a promotional email today showing some Grote LEDs. The email shows LED Clearance/Marker and Stop-Tail-Turn lights. Sizes vary from small up to 4" round and 6" oval. Here is the web link. Just FYI. http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L05035A0A2F530562674847D+M36+ENG John

Mike C.-- I'd very much appreciate your checking if the bolts are 10 mm or 12 mm. Some hard facts would help out. Thanks! John

Dave Greimann: I haven't been to your site in a long time. I really like the new look, the excellent photos and how-to info. Good work! John

I'm looking for an R200 diff with 12mm ring gear bolts. Can anyone tell me what year, model (turbo or non-turbo) or trans (manual, auto) had an R200 with 12 mm bolts? I saved various online threads from different forums on this topic and as I recall there were some disagreements on what years had 12 mm bolts. I'm at work so I can't look at my notes until I get home. Thanks! John Haag

You might want to contact Eric Nyerlin. His display name is Sleek Z. I talked with him as he was photographing a gated shifter on a 250 GTO replica (I think) at the '02 West Coast Nationals show. Perhaps Eric got the photo or knows who owned the car. That way you could get some first hand idea on how it is to use a gated shifter. I believe the gate was from a real Ferrari. Eric frequently posts to Hybrid Z but here are the addresses for Eric's site and email. www.zparts.com zcarz@attbi.com John

Welcome! It's nice to see an increasing number of ZX conversions. Ross Corrigan and Dave Greimann are probably the deans of ZX conversions but there have been several more people contributing in the last year. Tell us more about the conversion (coupe or 2+2), exhaust system, other mods, etc. I know what you mean about getting a computer at home--I hastily scan Hybrid Z before work and on my lunch hour since I don't have one at home yet. My '79 ZX is completely stock (even the tires ) except for the 350 TPI and 700R4. Someday soon John

Recently I was rereading a 1985, 4-part article (mentioned in some old posts to the Hybrid Z site) from Hot Rod magazine (May, June, July and September) about the building of a V-8 Z. I never noticed it before but an Editor’s Note at the beginning of the article mentioned subsequent articles about the “hot Z-car hybrid.” This has to be one of the earliest mentions of our hobby. The article described how the owner of the Supershop speed shop chain wanted to create a hot Z using what he called ‘a littleYankee enginuity.’ A commercially available kit, from a place called Nordskog Competition in Van Nuys, California, was used that cost $1800 in 1985 dollars. The Z was disassembled by Charlie Tolbert’s House of Z and then Ken Thurm Enterprises did the mods. I’m guessing the setback of the engine is more like the Scarab style than the JTR style. The Nordskog kit was used on Evel Knievel’s car according to an article in Popular Hot Rodding. The article is undated but it’s probably from around ’74 or ’75. I know Evel's car was been talked about on Hybrid recently since it was on eBay. One Hybrid member mentioned a book that showed the process of chopping the top and the article had some photos of the process. Just a little trivial to share with you.

Done! I posted a review of your integrity and customer service on your web site today. John

It was nice to see your business get mentioned in the new Sport Z magazine! You're doing a great job in growing your business and it's nice to see the frequent positive comments from satisfied customers here on Hybrid Z. Way to go! John Haag

If you want to read more than you ever thought possible , check out the following books. When my note says 'very technical' it means that the book uses numerous formulas (beyond my skills) to illustrate its points. The titles of several refer to chassis design but cover the importance of aerodynamics on chassis design. I think the first several books are the easiest for the lay person (like me) to read. I've gotten all of them via utilizing the free interlibrary loan service at my friendly local public library. -Competition Car Downforce: A Practical Guide - Simon McBeath. -Competition Car Controls - Alan Staniforth. -Aerodynamics for Racing and Performance Cars - Forbes Aird -Competition Car Suspension – Alan Staniforth. Very technical -Aerodynamics of Race Vehicles – Wolf Heinrich Hucho. Very technical -New Directions in Race Car Aerodynamics – Joseph Katz. Very technical. -Race Car Vehicle Dynamics – William Milliken. Very technical -Inside Racing Technology – Paul Haney. Very technical --Grand Prix Car Design and Technology in the 1980s – Alan Henry. Dated but it describes the movable panels, brushes, underbody ducts and fans used to create downforce. I believe the Chaparral used a snowmobile engine to create the suction for its 'sucker' car. There are several British magazines that cover racing technology, including aerodynamics, in some detail. Race Car Engineering is one. Some time back a person on this site posted this web link (http://www.gmecca.com/byorc/designpublicationsbooks.html ) and I ordered all of them via interlibrary loan. John

Some of the tail lights on late model cars look very bright. Someone told me the lenses were 'diamond cut' but I don't know if that is accurate. I like the style of the stock Z or ZX lenses well enough but they often look dull and old ( I'm talking about lenses, not my own appearance ) Does anyone know if there is a way to polish old lenses effectively? What is the correct term for the new look? Thanks. John

Stainless Works is the company (Chagrin Falls, OH) I was thinking of. I have a paper catalog from 10/98 that mentions their "Fit Kit Plus" with the following description: "An exhaust template kit that comes with two, 10 foot lengths of flex tube (available in several tube diameters), an expandable foam kit, two collectors w/ flanges, a radius guide, 8 plastic end caps and an oversize shipping container." The idea was to bend the flex tube to the exact shape or pattern you want, use the radius guide to make certain the bends are able to be duplicated, fill the tubes with expandable foam using the end caps and let it dry. Then the customer would send the tubes to the company and they would duplicate the bends. They emphasized that the radius guide was very important, stating "swooping bends cannot be duplicated and may be cause for your patterns to be returned. Due to the configuration of mandrel bends, bends that are too close to each other (less than 4" apart) or compound bends cannot be easily duplicated." When I went to their web site (http://www.stainlessworks.net/), however, I could not find this kit mentioned. The firm only works in 304 stainless steel, which is relatively expensive compared to 'regular' steel. Perhaps they didn't get many customers who wanted the kit or perhaps there is another reason it's not listed on their web site. From the photos in their 1998 paper catalog, the tube looks like it might be similar to the old VW heater tubing (it had a paper feel to it although I don't know the actual material). I think that kind of tubing is still available from J.C. Whitney. From seeing posts from other people over the years, I think it may be possible to use steel flex tubing (the kind of tubing some people use for a cheap exhaust system). I bought 25 feet of 1 5/8" of flex tubing from Whitney that I think could be bent into the exact shapes for headers. At the minimum, it seems like the flex tubing could be used as a template to check out various header pipe routing configurations. So....while I think it would work, the flex tubing is still sitting in my garage waiting for me to start the project. Who knows, maybe it won't work very well but I want to give it a try. Now all I need is more time. John

Darn!....I forgot to check my files when I got home last night. I know exactly what firm you are talking about. I'll tie a string around my finger tonight. John

The picture (white hood, blue fenders) that Tim posted in an earlier message is the only photo I've ever seen of a 280ZX G-nose. That photo is on the MP Auto (in the U.K.) web site. It's definitely an aftermarket item. I've asked Mike Feeney at MP Auto if he could forward some better photos. I've never seen or heard of a G-nose for the 280ZX from any other source, either in the U.S. or elsewhere. John

I like the G-nose for the Z and wondered if a G-nose was available in the U.S. for the 280ZX. I contacted MJP Auto in the U.K. about the one they sell. Unfortunately, it is not available in the U.S. unless a person wants to spend a fortune on shipping. Here is Mike Feeney's response: "The 280ZX G-nose is a UK product - I don't know any USA manufacturers who have done anything similar. You are right about shipping - these things get charged on volume, which makes shipping at least as expensive as the parts themselves! If you have any shipping contacts or would be prepared to receive freight collect, we can pack and send!" John

Tom Tatalovich Racing Services (TTRS) is a dealer for Revolution wheels which come in a number of styles, some of which are mostly black. They are having a sale on some wheels that fit Datsuns. At their site, about half way down the page, click on the link that says: "Click here for examples of our New Sale Prices!" John

Fuel Safe Racing Cells (http://www.fuelsafe.com/aboutfuel1.htm) apparently can custom make a fully functional fuel cell with external dimensions of stock gas taknk so it fits in the factory location. So says an article in the June, 2002 issue of Car Craft (page 84). The article doesn't state if it uses the stock fill location but read the column that is titled, "Custom Fuel Cells Made to Order." Other firms may do the same thing. Of course, when the word 'custom' is used, I'm sure the price goes up. John

Hmmm....I'm insured through Hagerty and I have a '79 ZX w/ a V8. You might want to check with them again. John

I've been very impressed by a book titled Competition Car Composites written by Simon McBeath. It's a clear, nicely illustrated 200 page book about the construction of composite parts by non-experts at home. The author style is not overly technical so a non-engineer like myself could easily understand it. There are several books on fiberglass construction techniques with some information about composites. Usually the sections on composites are more aircraft oriented. It was published by Haynes in 2000. The author has also written two other books called Competition Car Downforce and Competition Car Preparation but I haven't read them yet. I got the book from the Denver Public Library (catalog number 629.228 M121co) so even if your library doesn't own it, you could always order it via interlibrary loan. In very rare cases you might be charged for postage but I have never been charged. Or buy it. It's the best book I've seen on the topic. John Haag

The October, 2001 issue has an article titled Aero 101 by Larry McReynolds (of NASCAR fame) that might be interesting to those who liked the Aerodynamics thread on this forum several months ago. As I dreaded thinking about how much typing would be involved, however, to convey some ideas from the magazine, I had a wild idea: why not try a Google search using "Larry McReynolds Aero 101" as the key words? Voila! Go to the web site www.nascar.com/2001/TECH/08/02/circletrack/ to see virtually the same article. NACA ducts were talked about on the earlier Hybrid Z thread and as I recall, at least one person here wondered whether a NACA duct, turned 180 degrees would suck air out. He says YES and calls them "suca ducts" which made me smile. He doesn't quote statistics or wind tunnel evidence, which in a perfect world, I'd like to see, but then Larry was pretty successful in his day. Hope you like the article. John nullthe web page (http://www.nascar.com/2001/TECH/08/02/circletrack/ )Aero 101

I'm looking at getting a drill press (and an 'Ol Joint Jigger' eventually) but I know nothing about them. They seem to be advertised by how big a swing the arm has (12", 14" etc.) and by the horsepower of the motor. What are the pros & cons of a floor drill press versus a bench drill press, apart from the issue of space? Any comments would be appreciated. I hate buying a tool before I really understand all of the features.

I've seen a variety of sizes and styles of louvers in hoods and the tops of fenders. Most of the time, the louvers don't look like they came stock on the car. How is this done? Is some kind of a die used? If so, how would something the size of a fender or hood be fastened so a die could be used? Something I've always wondered about. Some people say the only "dumb" question is one that is never asked so, if that's true, I'm asking.

My 79 280ZX/automatic came with an R180. Whether you go with an R200 probably depends on how you plan to drive it. I plan to go to an R200 LSD but it's not my highest priority. Regarding air conditioning, the 350 engine, auto trans (700R4) and air conditioning from an '89 Firebird all fit into my engine compartment. As with a lot of cars, though, the A/C makes it somewhat harder to gain access to everything else plus a lot of people avoid it because of the extra weight. It's nowhere near as crowded as some of the new cars. I like the option, though, of having A/C when it gets really hot in Denver. Different strokes for different folks, I guess.

On my 280ZX (w/ an '89 350 TPI engine), I'm thinking about tilting the top of the radiator slightly to the front (I'll have to modify or replace the mounts). The reason is that I would like to run my air intake over the top of the radiator so the K&N air cleaner is in front of the radiator. With the stock radiator in the stock location, there isn't enough room between the top of the radiator and the hood to do this. I don't want to cut the hood to give me more room. I'm probably going to replace the stock radiator with a 19x26 Griffin. My question is about how the system will work with the radiator fill cap being lower than the thermostat location. The Featured Cars section of the web site isn't up at this time but I seem to recall that Terry/Blue Oval used an inline fill neck in the upper hose which would put the filler at the top part of the system. Would there be any problem with locating the filler neck close to the thermostat? Could an inline filler neck be avoided and just use the standard radiator fill cap location? Also, what effect would slightly tilting the radiator forward have on the overflow bottle which is currently in the stock location? This is one of those projects that hinges on making a bunch of other changes so I'd appreciate any heads up about problems that might occur.

My $.02 worth. I think the reason the ZX has not been used a lot for V8 conversions is that over the years in general, Zs have gotten heavier and have had more options. I think my 79 had the lowest stock horsepower of any ZX. More weight, more options tended to make the car less "hot" (for want of a better word) for the sports car enthusiast. It made it more popular for the masses (I think there were more 79s sold than any model year) but just by reading the car magazines of that period, you can see how often it was described as becoming a car with more luxury and image than performance. Also the 240/260/280 has been around a lot longer. I happen to prefer the looks of the 79-82 version more than any other model years but different strokes for different folks. Just my sense of things--I could be wrong. John