jmead

I agree, wideband is the only way to go.... http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ - $350, if I had he extra cash right now this is how I could go. You have to take into account that this is more than just a basic WB kit. With all the extra IO, the ability to data-log (VERY NICE), RPM input...and being able to run things like EGT meters too, it becomes a very good deal. Plus, it will emulate a NB sensor for connection to the ECU. Personally, right now, I think I'm going to be going with the tech edge ver 2. With cable, should be about $150 shipped, plus under $50 for the sensor putting the total under $200. I do think the diy-wb guys would be good to modify their units to allow the use of a bosch sensor, but I feel that there is probably a reason they haven't. I recall reading a reason, like it was harder to interface to or something like that.

How should I go about sanding? The way I tried first is by following a path (say all the way from the top of the hood to the bottom, and then back up) overlapping a little each time so I made sure to take the same amount of paint off of each section. This seemed to work ok, but after some polishing with the 3m compound there seem to be some vertical streaks left behind. Should I use a circular motion? Just random movements? Or should I invest in a nice compressor and dual action sander and go that route? (if I were to do that, where could I get 1500 and 2000 grit paper to fit the disc?). It looks a little better, but I didn't take enough paint off when I tried the first time. I was being carefull not to take too much, looks like I was too cautious. There are still some pretty deep scratches. I'm going to give it another shot with some fresh paper. I also think I need to use something inbetween the sand paper and 3m polishing compound, I'll try some rubbing compound this time. And it also seems I've got some swirls left after the polishing. What can I do to avoid this? The poloshing compound is supposed to be applied in an overlapping, circular motion.

oh crap....you're right I saw this at the top of the forum and I figured it was a new post....I guess someone brought it back not realizing the same

pics! we need pics! sounds awsome though. After an hour or so of searching around ebay for cheap northstars I really started wishing that someone would make some progress with theirs just so I could prove to myself that its possible. I was just about to hit the "search" button to re-read all the old posts for clues when this caught my attention keep up the good work, but be sure to take lots of picture breaks

I'd go with the 13b, just because its rare, would get alot more attention once you open the hood (well, alot more strange looks anyhow). Plus, the weight savings are significant, and with these cars I think the rotary is closer to what they were designed to be from the beginning.

search ( P ) Pronunciation Key (sûrch) v. searched, search·ing, search·es v. tr. To make a thorough examination of; look over carefully in order to find something; explore. To make a careful examination or investigation of; probe: search one's conscience for the right solution to the problem. Law. To make a thorough check of (a legal document); scrutinize: search a title. To examine in order to find something lost or concealed. To examine the person or personal effects of in order to find something lost or concealed. To come to know; learn.

looking good, this setup sounds pretty cool...

convention? what are you referring to? I'm in NY.... I didn't hear about anything

I'll agree that on a z car a "cold air intake" doesn't do much...it already has one. But other cars are a different story. The airboxes are not designed with performance in mind (well, most of the time they aren't), and sometimes it amazing to think the engine could make any power at all sucking air through that maze of plastic. Most CAIs don't work by really reducing the temperatures much, but simply by opening everything up (and a slightly higher flow through the filter doesn't hurt either).

I'm 6'4 and say 160lbs...fit no problem, a suprising amount of room. My problem is the head room, but that is only because my 240 has a sunroof with little latches that hang down a few inches from the roof. Also, if you're having problems fitting, I've found you can take 1-1.5" off the seat by removing the spacers on the four bolts that attach it to the floor.

NOS

is it on your SBC or i6? How is the sound, and is there a noticable improvement in power at all?

Well, some PROGRESS has been made. I did one of the fenders with 1500grit, all it did was make it more hazy than it was before, but it did smooth it out. This just discouraged me even more and I gave up. But, I went back at it with some 2000 grit along with soap water, followed up by some 3M rubbing compound, and it LOOKS GOOD! I'm very excited, I love my car, and I love the paint too, ruining it made me quite upset. There is still much to be done, even the spot I finally got to shine still needs some work, but I think with a little more sanding and alot more rubbing compound it will be as good as new. I tried alot of stuff along the way, scratch remover (helped a little), several different waxes (helped a little), turtlewax rubbing compound (didn't seem to do much), turtlewax scratch remover rubbing compound (again, nothing), but the sanding and 3M stuff is what it takes. Thank you all so much for your reccomendations, I wouldn't have known what to do if it weren't for all the suggestions. I think once I perfect the process and get the rest of the damaged areas done I will write up a little how-to for anybody who gets themselves into the same boat as I did and doesn't know where to turn (when I first saw the damage I did a google search and came up with nothing on paint repair like I needed) Thanks for the help

I'm pretty upset at the moment. On my 76 280z (the one in my sig), evertime I washed it I would get these spots on the body, like water spots, but no matter what I did they kept comming back. I heard that dawn dish soap will strip off wax and allow you to apply a fresh coat without anything left on top of the paint. I tired this once, using the soft side of a scotch pad and without any pressure, but it didn't look as though I had gotten the spots of wax off. So, next, (this is the part where I'm a moron), I decided to use the "hard" side of the pad to get everything off the paint. I tried to be gentle, but it seems I've ruined the paint on my hood and front fenders. The paint is now scuffed, it looks like it is steamed up, and the scratch and swirl marks cover the hood. If I wet the paint, thinking that maybe there is just soap residue left, it looks great, the color is back (though upon close inspection you can see the scuff marks), until the water evaporates and it looks cloudy again. I thought maybe a coat of wax would fill in the marks and restore the paint, but it doesn't seem to work. It is "smoother", but the color is way off, it doesn't look anything like the dark green it used to, and it isn't the same color as when wet. So, what did I do? Scuff the clear coat, or what? Does anyone think there is anyway to restore my paint? I loved the color before, and that shine, but it seems its gone. Can anyone help?

any update? I'd like to hear more about this, AFM is a PITA

any update on this? It sounds very interesting

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I've seen the electric fan kits for sale in victoria british, so I know you can fit a 14" fan. What I'm really concerned with is the thickness. I tried the 2 speed taraus fan I'm going to be using with my chevy 350 swap, but that is too thick for the i6. I've been looking around ebay, and I can find fans either 2.35" or 2.05" (for the more expensive) thick. Will either of these work? I don't want to take that stupid mechanical fan of again just to measure, so I'd like to see what others have used. Anyone with an electric fan on their stock engine have any info for me? Thanks

well, I was on the fence about my v8 swap. I knew I was going to do it, but just not when. I didn't want to risk screwing up a perfectly good car to drop the new engine in, but I'm also getting tired of the i6 and don't want to spend any more money on an engine I know I'm not going to have that much longer. Well, the car made the decision easier I'm driving down the road, seems a little rough, but I haven't driven the car in a few weeks so I don't think about it. Starts vibrating a little more, I pull over, everythings fine, all the gauges are good. A few seconds down the road, all kinds of bad noises start comming from the engine. Turns out 2 of the bolts that hold the fan assembly to the pulley had worked themselves out, and the other two just weren't enough. The fan started shaking and ripped itself apart, in addition to shaking the waterpump so bad the gasket broke and started spewing coolant all over. Its not a total loss, but its enough to make up my mind. V8 is going in, quick.

that is pretty sweet, very professional, and looks like it will be effective. Have you dynoed the car recently so you can compare power increases from the cooler charge? Or a temp sensor in the intake at least, so there is some idea of actual gains?

Well, I'm going to the junyard tomorrow, and they're having a special; any seat for $5. Sounds good to me, but I need to know what to look for. The Z seats leave a little to be desired, so I'm looking to upgrade. Any ideas? I think I heard something about mr2 seats? Thanks for any help

well, how does it work? ANy noticable inprovement? How was installation?