jmead
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Posts posted by jmead
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Alright...got my car running smoothly, now it turns out I've got a transmission problem.
It turns out the vacuum line that connects to the manifold was loose, and leaking vacuum, causing the transmission to lurch at certain speeds depending on the throttle position.
I re-attached the hose securely, and the car is much smoother, but it will still ocasionally lurch around during a shift. This is mainly at high speeds (45+). What more can be done to fix this? Is it possible the hose itself is leaking? What other parts could cause this to happen? I've read something about a "vacuum modulator" in the tranny. What does it do?
I've got a 76 280z, auto tranny, stock. Thanks for any input
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I guess I'm going to replace the dizzy with a zx model....
But there is some NEW INFO
This is kind of strange...while I'm driving, esepically after accelerating, it will buck as I've said. This is when the gas pedal is released slowly to come to cruising speed. But, if I take my foot of the gas as fast as I can, IT DOESN'T DO IT!
Why could this be? It almost sounds like a transmission problem to me....
I would think it should be worse the faster I decelerate, but that isn't the case...
Any ideas?
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I'm not sure about the igntion timing...I was figuring that somebody would suggest that (it make sense that the only way it would fire out the intake is a serious timing issue). I don't really know much about that area of my car. I've never had my dist open or off, still have the stock coil, same wires....etc. Any suggestion on what to check out specifically?
And yeah, I know a filter is a good idea. The only reason I'm running it without a filter at all is because I just completely re-finished my tank (inside and out), and flushed all the lines of any old gas. I wasnted to eliminate as many potential problems as possible, filter seemed like a logical one.
I'm pretty sure the TPS switch is correct. I've made sure it is set to idle when at idle...I can't be sure it is at WOT when its at WOT, but it must be close. The problem could be TPS I suppose, it just seems odd due to the nature of the problem, I think it dies at 5-6k no matter what, if I'm in neutral and steadily increase the throttle until its that high, or just a quick press, does it either way. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check that. (I need two people though, so its going to have to wait for now)
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IT WAS A VACUUM LEAK IN THE BRAKE BOOSTER!
denny411 - you've earned yourself at least $5 for that!
I hadn't even thought of the brake booster. I removed all the hoses and covered them, but same problem. I didn't see the point in trying the brake booster too, but I did....and that (pretty much) fixed it.
There is still a problem though. Off idle it still backfires a little, and when I get very high on the tach (around 5-6k) it bounces all the way to redline and dies. When I turn the key off and back on, it does starts and runs fine, but it will do the same thing over again if I hit 5k (or sometimes lower, it has done the same thing at 3k before....just it happens almost everytime when I hit 5-6k)
Any ideas? Does this sound like AFM? It does to me...but ECU sounds good too. Let me here those ideas. The problem is only half fixed (but that is a whole lot better than not fixed at all).
Also...yeah, the SBC swap. That was the plan the whole time. Only not quite yet. I'm building up everything I need first. I've got the headers, fan, and I bought a chevy 350 and 700R4 (just haven't picked them up yet). My plan was to rip the engine out this winter when I couldn't drive the car anyway. But I also told myself that if I couldn't get this engine running again smoothly for under $100 I was just going to start the swap a little sooner.
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OK, thanks for the replies. I'll have a few hours to myself to go screw with the car ina little while, and I'll go try the suggestions.
The fuel pump is OK, I think. I had a kink in the hose that went between the gas tank and fuel pump, but I found a 1/2" 90* hose connector and that solved that problem. I've cranked it over with the fuel line disconnected, and some fuel came out....I assume that means it is working. I'm not really sure if it was operating at 100%, all I was looking for was to see if it worked at all.
Also, the filter was clogged, i think. I removed the filter and I'm using a straight piece of hose right now, just for testing. I'll be replacing the filter ASAP.
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OK, this is how it works. I'm getting pretty annoyed, car doesn't work, and I don't know how to fix it. I've posted a few threads, but I've just been getting the same replies. I've very thankful for everyones help, but I figure if I add some incentive maybe I'll get some more suggestions and some more detailed responses.
Basically, the person who tells me how to fix my car gets $10. If there are multiple variations of the same suggestion, the person with the most detailed and informative response gets the prize. $10 (or more, depending on how much help I need to get this going) will be awarded through either paypal, or via $10 money order.
My problem:
Car doesn't run right, and often, at all. It used to run a little rough, backfire occasionally during hard acceleration off-idle, but now it is much worse. I've replaced the AFM (twice), both times with used units that were supposed to work, but none of the 3 I've had in the car have been tested with any other. I've also eliminated the possibility of a vaccum leak (I think), the hose between the AFM and intake is fine, no holes, rips, and I've replaced the clamps. I'm also fairly confident it is not a ground issue. I've tested everything with a multimeter and everything seems to be grounded to everything else.
It used to not start at all. Last time I tried, it would start after alot of cranking, idle very roughly, ocasionally backfiring out of the intake (blew the intake hose off once, could see the flame), and then die. If I give it gas, it just backfires more, but sometimes it will rev up all the way to redline and behave as it would normally, and then go back to sputtering.
Car is a 76 280z, K&N filter, no other mods (yet).
So, what could it be? Wiring to the afm (how can I check/fix this?), timing, ECU problems? Let me hear your ideas
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Ok, I've got a 76 280z
Basically stock, had a 60mm TB with same problems (replaced it with stocker), and a K&N cone filter. That is pretty much it (for now)
Also, for the gas tank. I drained it, washed it, cleaned it with a rust eating acid (metal ready), washed it again, dried it with hair dryer for 2 days, coated the inside with US standard fuel tank slealer, and as I let that dry I gave the outside 2 coats of POR-15.
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OK, I posted before about a problem I was having. Sometimes car would backfire off idle during acceleration. Would run ok after that, maybe a little lacking in power, but driveable. Got a suggestion about a bad AFM. Got a new (used) one....same thing. Another...same thing.
I took it off the road to fix the leaky gas tank. Fixed the tank, but now the car won't start. I can crank and crank, sometimes it will start for a second, run real rough and then quit, most of the time it doesn't even get that far.
But I tried something out of desperation. With the AFM connected to the ECU, but not to the intake...same thing....but when I disconnected the AFM all together (both from the intake and the computer), it started and ran! Now, I didn't run it very long (no filter), and I didn't try to drive it, but at least it started.
Now, what does this mean? Bad wiring? Something with the ECU? Did FI this old even have a "limp mode"?
So...any suggestions? I love this car, but I can't figure it out...I really cant stand to have it just sit in the garage.
Thanks for any input
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OK, I posted before about a problem I was having. Sometimes car would backfire off idle during acceleration. Would run ok after that, maybe a little lacking in power, but driveable. Got a suggestion about a bad AFM. Got a new (used) one....same thing. Another...same thing.
I took it off the road to fix the leaky gas tank. Fixed the tank, but now the car won't start. I can crank and crank, sometimes it will start for a second, run real rough and then quit, most of the time it doesn't even get that far.
But I tried something out of desperation. With the AFM connected to the ECU, but not to the intake...same thing....but when I disconnected the AFM all together (both from the intake and the computer), it started and ran! Now, I didn't run it very long (no filter), and I didn't try to drive it, but at least it started.
Now, what does this mean? Bad wiring? Something with the ECU? Did FI this old even have a "limp mode"?
So...any suggestions? I love this car, but I can't figure it out...I really cant stand to have it just sit in the garage.
Thanks for any input
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why not just get a pair of the larger aligator clips (like the kind found on higher-wattage car inverters) and snap them right to the battery? It sounds like it won't be driven much so it wouldn't cause a problem not having the wires more permanantly attached.
Also, I believe VW includes a solar charger with alot of their new cars, and consequently, there are alot of VW solar charges for sale on ebay. AFAIK they can be had for under $20 and should do the trick with only minor modifications.
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Ok, well, I got my 60mm 240sx throttle body installed. Used aluminum spacer, already came with TPS and linkage, so it was basically just bolt-in. However, it seems there are some things that can no longer be connected. There is a hose comming out of the valve cover, it branches into 2 hoses, one goes to some sort of valve, and then into the old TB, and one just connects straight to the TB. My question is: What do I do with these hoses now that there aren't any provisions for them? Plug them up, leave them hanging, or possible install one of those valve cover breathers I've seen where the hose would come out? Also, the valve installed right behind the throttle body, what is it? I think its called the AIR regulator valve? What purpose does it have?
Sorry about all the questions. And thanks for any help
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OK, we've got the hose that connects the filter to the AFM, and then the hose that connects the AFM to the throttle body...anything else I should check?
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I've got a 1976 280z w/ auto transmission
Since I installed my upgraded throttle body (60mm 240sx), I've been having a problem. Sometimes the car "pops" a little bit, you can feel it very clearly in the gas pedal, and my girlfriend said she could feel it from the passenger side, too. It used to just happen once when you pressed the pedal hard from a stop, but now it seems to do it all the time under 30mph, even with the slightest acceleration. When it happens, the car lurches a little bit, and acceleration isn't even close to what it normally is. In addition, since this started happening, the car has also been stalling. The tach jumps up to 3500-4000, flutters around a little bit, along with a loss of power, and once the car slows it just shuts down completely. Normally if you re-start the car its fine, but on my way home it happened several times, when it normally wouldn't. Does anyone have any ideas? It’s to the point where I can't even drive my car now, so I'd really like to get it back into tip-top shape. Thanks for any help.
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then you would have a 280zx n/a with a turbo bolted to it
it would probably work, but the compression ratio would be a little high. I wouldn't expect the engine to last too long
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I've got a MSA-style cold air intake tube coming from eBay minus a filter. I decided I'd rather have a true K&N rather than the "K&N-style" filter it was listed with. I was wondering what size/shape k&n filter I should get in order to maximize filter size yet minimize the chance of it rubbing on the body or just not fitting entirely. I will probably order this from summit, but if anyone else has any recommendations on a better place to buy K&N filters that would be great too.
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I'd like to switch from my stock airbox to a K&N CAI. I know MSA sells kits for ~100, but I noticed summit sells universal K&N cone filters for around $40 each. As long as I can find the elbow I need for under $60 I'll still come out on top here. I just need to know where to get an elbow that will fit, or at least the dimensions so I can find one that is pretty close to what MSA sells. I plan on installing a 60mm throttle body as soon as my spacer comes in, and I think this would be a good time to upgrade the rest of the intake.
Thanks for any help
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I've got a 76 280z and I'd like to go with a pertronix optical igntion. In their applicationg guide, all I see listed is the 240z points style. Which model do I want for a 76 280?
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If you look down a few posts you'll see exactly why I'm replacing my heater hoses, but now I need to know what size.
I plan on placing an order to summit (unless someone reccomends somewhere else). I plan on replacing the hoses running from the engine to the firewall, and from the firewall to the heater core. What size hose do I need to replace the ones currently on the car (I'm not at home otherwise I'd check), and is there any specific brand I should buy? Do I need the braided heater hose for inside the compartment, or should I just use rubber for both sets?
Also, if anyone has any reccomendations for other little things to throw into my order I'm game. I'll be paying shipping anyhow so in the long run I'd save a little bit over needing to place a second order later for whatever I left out this time.
Thanks
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Well, driving down the road, foot on the accelerator, at about 5000rpms I hear a loud pop and a hiss, followed by a massive amount of smoke puring in through the heating ducts and up the whindshield. A few seconds later I also hear the sound of hot coolant being shot into the passenger side of the cabin, and trickeling down the passenger seat (luckily I was alone in the car at the time). I was just a few seconds from home so I rolled down the window and stuck my head out just enough to see my way into the garage where I quickly shut of the car and prayed that once the smoke cleared the temperature needle won't have melted. Since I couldn't see anything I'm not sure how hot the engine got, but it was only a few seconds so I'm pretty sure there isn't any damage other than the coolant-soaked interior and a burst heater core.
All this is really beside the point..what I'm really asking is if my temporary fix will do the job for now, before I start it, or if it could cause any more damage.
My plan is to take the two hoses off where the pass through the firewall to the heatercore, and basically just bypass the problem area by routing them together. This way the coolant meant for the heater will just flow right back into the engine. Is this going to cause any problems? I haven't joined the hoses yet, or started it, I just wanted to check here first. If my thinking is correct, the heater core isn't really needed for anything, and routing the coolant back into the engine will barely make any difference then it going through the core, since it isn't a critical cooling component or anything.
Thanks for any input....I hope to have my car back on the road ASAP. And since its getting to be summer, I didn't really need the heater anyway.
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I've just got a quick question. I found someone selling a few 5spds from 80 280zx's, and would like to know if one would bolt up to my l28. I've got an auto right now, and really want to make the swap, I'm just not sure if it would work.
Also, he's asking $200 + shipping, this sound like a good deal? I think the price is right but I'm not sure what one would normally go for.
Thanks for any input.
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it seems like a good idea, if you're planning on keeping the water circuit seperate from the main cooling lines. However, keep in mind the lowest the system could possible run would be ambient temperature, and even if that was achieved the results would probably be minimal. A fuel cooler like above would probably work just as well, but again, would likely have little effect.
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Remove the whole console? Cutting? ...I don't like the sounds of that. Any ideas on how I actually get at it? ie, like where the screws I have to remove are. I guess I'm gonna go down to the garage and see what I'm dealing with. Thanks for the info, and keep any more you've got coming!
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I'm pretty new to the Z stuff, just got my 280 a week ago and haven't messed with it yet other than fixing a few small electrical problems. I've decided the first thing to go is the stock stereo. I'm thinking about putting some 6x9's (pioneer?) in the compartments directly behind each seat, along with an amp behind the passenger seat for now. I've never done a stereo install before, but I really don't like the thought of having some guy at circuit city screwing around with my Z, so I think its best if I do the install myself. I looked around under the dash and realized I have no idea how to get the stock stereo out to replace with my CD player. Is it just held in by a few screws in the back? If so, how do I get to them? Or is it a little more complicated then that? I think I can handle all the wiring and everything, I just need a little help with exactly how to go about swapping out the HU. Thanks for any input
Transmission problem
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
nobody has any ideas?