sleepyspeed

octane is the fuels burn speed rating. Higher octane burns slower, that is why you would use higher octane in a high compression motor, or boosted application. The slower burn speed curbs off detonation allowing you to run higher boost, or compression. As the others said only buy the grade of fuel needed to keep the engine from pinging under a load. If you can accomplish that with 87 octane than 100 octane would probably show a loss of performance, without bumping the timing up to accommodate for the slower burning fuel. So then your left with turning the timing back to what it was if you had to fill up somewhere else sometime.

wow, you should have been at the wal-mart in my town. LaGrande Oregon, you could tell most of the county is out of work right now the sale ended at 11 o'clock and there was over half of the tv's left. People were after $1.50 towels and $2 movies. I did get my kids a xbox 360 at 5 in the morning

ahh... thanks for the heads up. So MSA is about the only way to go then right?

I have found this place the top of the page is all normal body kits. The middle has a widebody kit, and at the bottom is various parts in fiberglass and steel. The G in the white column on the replacement pieces at the bottom of the page marks fiberglass parts. http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/280zx.html nice car BTW

I would suspect the fuel pump relay, my first Z would do that every once and a while. Chances are the contacts in the relay are wearing out so it's a hit and miss type of deal. Maybe pickup one from junkyard and try it and see if it fixes then buy a new one if it does.

heat, and cold probably wont pop door dings and any kind of creased dents. stud gun and body hammers are going to be your best bet. Sounds like you have spare panels to practice on which is a good way to get the hang of body work.

isn't the hood also just a 82-83zx hood

Hi, I just joined here is a pic of mine. I am bringing it home tomorrow it's a 81 2+2 5spd.