stagefumer11

ah looks like the gasket has been replaced before, id be concurned why?. you should be sweet with that l20a gasket. it doesnt overlap any of the water jackets at all.

nz gaskets is new zealands biggest suppler of gaskets. repco uses them, I went thru the whole ordeal with them, as they do not do the l20et head gasket, only the l20a, i had the guy ring me back, he compared the two diffrent listings and confurmed that the whole head set is fine. ive been using mine now for over 7 months, you shouldnt have a problem

Getting parts for l20et's in New Zealand is hard as nissan do not bring stuff in for them anymore., and 90% of supplers dont want to touch them

my l20et runs only just on the low cold mark, and moves up to 1/4 the gauge when thrashing it. would this mean it runs to cold. i do notice when its warmer outside and it sits on the 1/4 mark i get much better low down torque, how can that change that ?

hey guys, another problem here with a l20et. same as gorge atm. The l20et came with two diffrent style of dizzy's one was the Vacume retard unit, which was quite small. most similar to the l24 unit. then they also came with a electronic one. which is prone to problems. which is where im trying to figure out. When cold starting. it will take around 10 seconds pumping the gas while turning the Key to get it to even kick, when it does it pops out the intake untill Rev build up, then its fine. It sometimes Drops back down and trys to die. same poping out the intake. now after that it runs fine. after a minute of running i can clearly feel the timing retard drimaticly, rpm drop atleast 1000rpm,. throttle response is crap. on boost it hauls but. and i can clearly hear a droning soudn comming out the intake. then 5 mins later it comes right. now it can do this while on boost or not. power is not consistint. now ive been thinking it could be the dizzy retartding, to much. which i was told by my local L20et Guru that mine was clearly stuffed. which is hard to tell. Now i guess ill stop beating around the bush. is their away to Lock these dizzys ? since they run off the ecu. and so forth. it connects using a 4 pin barrel plug. other wise im in the hunt for a dizzy for it. which in NZ isnt easy to come by,

are you saying you can put in the 300z map sensor ? on any turbo L motor? how so ??

also have a look at your tps, mine went bung and it did the same thing yours is doing

to be honnest id be talking to rob at R.I.P.S he would know where heaps would be. and ask on http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz

could it be possible to convert them to use standard blade fuses ?

ive been having the same problem. Hard starting when cold. Id need to crank for at least 10 seconds for it to kick. then it will backfire out the intake a few times while it trys to Run cold idle. then it comes right. To me it sounds like a fuel problem. Ive got a huge fuel pump running on the stock system. and never used to have this problem. Today. after going for a run of 10 mins, turned it off left for 5 mins. came back. and it wasnt getting fuel, it was getting spark. "aftermarket taco" but again no fuel. After 2 mins of cranking it finialy came to life. "weird" now i know its not the fuel pump system. as its running on a new relay system

when your in park the engine isnt under a load. id check your timing and see if you are getting fuel also. and yea the afm would be the first thing to look at

my l20et is currently being a bit of a tempermental peice of equipment. When hitting full boost. 10psi; the motor will miss. backfire. and backfire out the intake. The backfires are happening at the same time. intake and exhasut. I currently have minimal mods. noting major. and with these mods ive had them in the car over a year. and this problem has arisen a few months ago. Ill start from the beginning. Car W.o.f Ran out. so i parked the car up for 2 weeks. it was running fine before hand. 2 weeks later i set to work on fixing the rust problems. I removed the battery and proceded into cut out major rust area's ( battery. drip rails. lower arches. ) i put it all together to go and get my patches welded in. hooked it all up. Now this is where it started.... It didnt start freely. a bit hesitint. but then ideld fine. Let it warm up for 5 mins or so. then set off down the road. Now.... 3k bang car dies. 500rpm drop off and it comes back into life. at this point ive nearly had enough problems with the dam thing. one thing after another.. I limped it around to the welders place 40kmph was my top speed. AFter welding in new plates ect. we both started to find out what the problem is. Noticed the B.o.v was to loose and was opening up under throttle. This moved the Cutting out problem to 5k. after thinking it was a fuel problem, i went and got a second hand Fuel pump out of a late model Merc V8. A very high flowing bosh unit. unsure on what the flow rates are. but much higher that the original. Replacing the fuel pump made no diffrence. now this is what ive gone thru to try and find out. Plugs been repaced 4 times. and gaped. Leads tested and were fine. All intake in front of throttle body was removed, cleaned and inspected. new clamps. Turbo compressor housing removed. inspected turbo. "fine" for 20 years old striped coil harness back and checked for any deterioation. all fine. Removed all injectors. cleaned, cleaned plugs, and checked harness again. Dizzy cap fine. rotor fine. Umpluged o2 sensor. still the same. Unpluged the knock sensor. still the same. Unpluged the tps. still the same. Got to the point. of not knowing what it was. so i sent it off to the local mechanic. he notied that my dizzy was advancing and retarding erraticly. and narrowed it down to a stuff water temp sensor. they returned they car said it was running fine. which it was. but only running 5psi. which is dam SLOW!. wound it back up to 8 psi and it was better. but power was very uneaven. and missing, timing was advancing and retarding. Disconected the knock sensor to see what it would do.and it all came right. but then at 5k it has a miss and a backfiring problem. Thinking it was overfueling up top i wound it up to 12psi. and then it continued to do what its doing now. from 3k onwards on full boost it will miss, Backfire out the exhaust and intake. and run overly ritch. and hardly proceding anywhere. after my mate had the same problem the other night. he thumped his ecu and moved the harnes around. and it ran fine again. Ive just currently Resolderd all the soldir joint in the ecu. to see what would happen. and all i can say. is, its the same. Currently all sensors are pluged back in. and nothing has changed. My mods are. 2.5" exhaust. Adjustable Acuator arm. Used to run 15psi no problem for over a year Rebuilt head. (FActory settings) pod filter. Intercooler. B.o.v in front of the throttle body. http://img11.photobucket.com/albums/v35/Munkvy/?start=all Thats currently what state it is in now. the bov has been moved with a larger outlet to stop backspooling. and thats it. Ive been informed that i could have a Craked Compressor housing which has knowing to do these same symptoms on rb's but mine doesnt have a crack. Any insite?

well it has been narrowed down to a faulty Dizzy. It keeps advancing and retarding the timing; eraticly. and killing spark. Seems to be common in the electronic style dizzy. dont know if its fixible tho" who knows"

Thats what i was thinking "whats the point". ill see what i can find thru our local nissan outlet. but,....sigh city nissan here. none of them have any idea about anything. lol

according to nissan over here there was a factory l24et. now is this true and has anyone seen one. I only know one guy who claims to have seen one in person.

ok. well took the old girl to the l20et god around here "2 400hp l20ets for his race boat" ANd he said it could be possibly a burnt vavle. meaning it was mis adjusted when the other mechanicl rebuilt the head. "yay" for me. hope it all goes well

well i removed all the injectors last night. and removed all the hoses and cleaned them up. and tested the current. new hoses and clamps going on to tonight. hopefully ill get it sorted.

sorry about the delayed reply, i dont have the internet at home atm. but anyway. The plug leads are only 5 months old. and have been tested and seem not to be to restictive. I did have a problem last night with my fuel pump Stepping contoll unit deciding to cook itself. i dont know if it was the over sized Merc v8 fuel pump. :/. so i had to wire in a relay system and leave the Fuel pump unit in for the ecu to get a signal to send power to the Coil pack. "weird" Ive also tryed replacing the FPU. but now ive come across one of the barb fittings on my injector number 5 cylinder has split. so its messy. The only thing i can think of left. is yea reaplace the leads. find somehow a new Dizzy cap and rotor and a ignition module. which over here is A miriacle to find brand new. even seccond hand in a good condition. Unless you new Zealander guys know where i can find a brand new dizzy cap and rotor. Not the "small" style but the larger fully electronic ones. I work at Repco so all sorses have been tryed. and no one on our system does them. Cheers all

ah ok sorry, i wasnt detailed enough. it backfired out the intake when it was trying to run. say only 500rpm with me on the gas. didnt sound good. it wouldnt run..... I came out today in the morning after charging the battery, and had it start fine. ok to 20 secconds of cranking for it kick right. but idled fine. took it for a drive as soon as i came on to 6psi of boost it missed badly. 1 cylinder is dropping out. ive changed the plugs still the same. ive ran with no fpr. and still the same. with noe tps. again same. same with the o2 sensor. Firing order is fine. plugs are gapped to .8mm i dont know whats going on. the only thing i can think of is another ecu. as the orginal one had similar problems. but it wouldnt pulse the injectors. then killed the fuel system.

long post made short. ive had a problem with my l20et being hard to start and constinly missing. and dieing. Ive. replaced plugs. 2 times and gaped. Swaped AFM over 3 times. Checked all ingnition leads. low resistant. Checked cap. Worn but not resistant. Rotor the same, REplaced the fuel pump. Tonight i came across a injector not working. well i was lead to beleive so. as removing the plug made no diffrence with it running. Repalced it with a spare one. and it was the same. but this lead to it backfireing out my intake. and i know thats not good for the afm. Ive also cleaned the TPs. and adjusted. Striped back the Injector loom and checked the circit. all seemed to be good All injector plug output seems to be constint from .6 ro so volts up. changing with rev diffrence. Well to be honnest i have no idea whats going on.

is this right 1.5.3.6.2.4 ?

ok yeah ive done a seach and didnt find much easly. but, i stuffed mine up. its a l20et which i would preusme is the same order as all the other l's

well some of you may remember some of the problems i seem to have lately over the past few months. My first problem i had was having the constent problem with the car dieing. and not running afterwards. it would give spark no deliver fuel, as it killed the fuel pump. Narrowed that down to the ecu, "after it died and wouldnt even close the injectors. she does run ritch lol. Replaced the Ecu and all came right. gained alot of power. Now my warrent of fitness ran out. so i parked it up for two weeks. after that i set down to fix all the rust. so i cut all that out. started it to go and get the patches wellded in. started fine. like normal. Ran down the road after it had warmed up. as soon as i hit 3000rpm i hit a brick wall and it shut down. 1000rpm droped it came back and ran fine to 3000rpm. turned around in a bad mood. as again something else is wrong . got home and it died on me. then didnt enjoy starting again untill i gave it some gas. Ever since then it will not run with out me holding the throttle to keep it there. and it will miss and sputter and try to die. it will rev fine to redline. and not miss while doing so. We narrowed down the 3000rpm stall to the bov being to loose. tigtend that up and it moved to 5000rpm. Here's what ive looked at. Changed the plugs. regaped. many times and cleaned New Fuel Pump. "merc V8 bosh unit" swaped between afm's Cleand tps Sensor and readjusted. Removed all the intake to look for leaks. cleaned and new hose clamps. removed and blocked pcv valve system and installed another one with filter. cleaned all Relays and fuses. Re Grounded Coil Pack Grounds. and all other Main harnes grounds. (sanded and greased) Adjusted idel. Removed intercooler "checking leaks" Tryd unpluging Fpu. that seemd to raise the idel. but not improve it at all. cleaned afm. Cleaned all contacts on distrubtor and leads. "leads are only 3 months old" New Alternator. im realy getting stumped on this matter. it also doesnt help that someone broke into my car and stole my brand new battery. i also Wiggled the plug and on the Tps and noticed while keeping the car reving it would worsen when i did so. the plug has also be cleaned up. Only for one night did it run fine. i didnt drive it. but it ideld nice and didnt miss and sputter. but the next night. it was back to the same. so i am really stumped.

swap your ecu over with another one. and see if it comes right. over here its really common for all L serries motors ecu to have this problem. mine has it in my skyline. took 5 years for the ecu to finaly bite the dust. it had the common problem with the fuel pump not running and no power to the coil. hence car wouldnt go. it was interminit. sometimes it wouldnt do it for a few months. then it wouldnt go for a week............ the ecu finialy died yesterday. wouldnt run the injectors cycle so it was dumping fuel in.pretty nasty:) replaced it. b00m more power smoother and kicks every time i want it to

also try another ecu, its common over here for them over the years to become faulty, i know cus mine is, and will randomly kill fuel and spark.