garyneedsz
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Posts posted by garyneedsz
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hello, i 60mm tb on my 81 280zxt setup. i was wondering if i should keep the stock 280zxt tps or use the one on the tb? does it matter?
also, newb question but, with the afm working fine, could the tps cause a car to run rich? or should i look for another problem?
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just as title says, preferred to see a receipt for the rebuild. or send a pic.
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yeah, the first thing everyone does is look for that bumper.
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ok, someone from Norway wanted a set of 240z corner lights. i can do this for anybody (dissassemble + ship).
Tomorrow, Oct2-5th, pick a part sales. three s30s, two 300zx (84 model), and a 2003 Honda RSX (coming in fresh tmrw). at Milliken off the 60
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up and running! set timing at 20 for stock ecu, 60mm tb, intercooler, and -emissions -cat. does anyone prefer anything else? im trying to look for a fuel pressure gauge (good but cheap), and most importantly an AFR gauge/kit. any suggestions on what to buy? eventually i will be moving up to MS, so wideband 02 sensors will be in the near future, but im trying to look for one that is cheap and very functional (ghetto tap onto the stock narrowband). but if someone suggests a good kit thats well worth my money, i will consider buying it.
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Alittle background. I just put in an '81 turbo motor 5spd into my s30. its currently running off stock ECU. there is no cold start valve, or anything dealing w emissions. so no egr, no cat, no muffler even. its running off of the 81 dizzy with the CAS at the pulley. As of now, the timing mark at Op Temp is around 15. I cannot adjust the cas or dizzy anymore. any ideas of what could be the problem? why is the timing off?
I was reading about swapping the 81 dizzy to the 83. i read for about an hour and didnt see any issues concerning this swap. would getting a 83 dizzy fix my problem? does the swap require anything else besides the shaft? will the ECU read it the same as the external CAS?
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so ive spent the last few days studying my chassis harness. apparently the PO loved to mickey mouse. the headlight system wiring has been removed from the stock harness and has been hooked up to a relay + my combo switch. i replaced all my fuses on the fuse panel when i bought the car. so for poops and giggles, i took a multimeter to the wires that have been cut on the stock harness(headlight system part), and what do you know. 12v. the headlights were working perfectly! all they needed to do was change out the fuse. Thanks alot PO... i digress.
As of now, everything is in the car, connected and working. All i need is the 81 ecu which will be here within this week. So in the meantime, im gunna sand my headlight buckets, skid plate, and clean up the wiring. Im also going to double check the efi harness just incase i wired something up wrong.
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haha thanks. it was a mission getting the engine. but well worth it.
you mean this Z?
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thanks man. aaaah crap! i missed out. i only had enough time to look at the classic section, then had to rush off to santa ana to drop my transmision off.
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whats shipping going to run me? someone offered $40 shipped
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everything in, slight leak at thermostat housing. very painful. no leaks from tranny and engine which is excellent. yesterday night i took off the return house (rubber part) and left it like that overnight. for some reason, it spewed out onto my frame rail. so now the front part of the passenger rail is primer.....bust. i dont know how the thermo is leaking, i just put in a new gasket. on top of all this, i wired up my car wrong, i put a wire labeled "ground on battery" onto a positive switch. once i hooked the battery up, boom. my ecu was gone. tried cranking. injectors dont click, no spark at the wires, and fuel pump not activating. 100% sure my ecu is done.
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i need a 1981 280zx turbo ecu. i fried mine tonight....
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that thing is real clean man. hope we see some progress soon
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got some taylor wires on the engine. looks nice.
took apart the n/a motor, threw away timing cover and oil pump. (timing cover broken at corner where it bolts, oil pump had a scarred surface making it leak.)
Here is the plate/cover i was talking about. i just mocked it up. it needs some sanding and paint, which i will get to this week
I was wondering what was the best way to put a cylinder head in storage. what kind of flat surface i should use? what holes do i cover, etc,etc.
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Ok, so Its getting harder and harder to find s30's in Socal now a days. Sometimes there could be many, or none for months on end. so im going to start a thread that keeps track of how many Z's are at the popular junkyards and a rough estimate of what they have. These are all Pick a Part. The one off the 60freeway is a different pick a part (different franchise i believe)
Anahiem, Ca:
One s30. no transmission, all body parts still there. one l6 block.
a few s130's but all of them have no transmissions. body parts still there.
Stanton, Ca:
NO S30s
a few s130's but all of them have no transmissions. body parts still there.
Ontario, Ca:
3 s30. one convertible. one carb, two fuel injected. body parts still there.
two manual transmission, one automatic. (minus ALL reverse switches. i took them)
3 L6 blocks.
didnt have the chance to look for s130s
Once again, this is a ROUGH estimate. im not going to sit there and look for everysingle clip and bolt. is you have any questions, msg me.
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Update: Alright. was wrestling the whole mounting situation down and we finally got it. For some reason, everytime i drop the motor in, the mounts always gives me a problem. the problem maybe that the mounts are really old and have been bent out of shape, or we suspect slight frame damage on the passenger side. My dad being in auto body for decades, said the frame is fine. anyways, i got one side in, and took a 4in C clamp to match the mount and the insulator bolts. the tricky part is to line up the insulator insert with a mallet. this is the best way i could do it since i couldnt find anything on the side regarding, "how to install stubborn engine mounts".
Engine in. Now i just need to figure out how to put on all the harnesses w/o making it look like a mess. The engine should be running by the end of september because i still need fluids($100........). I still have some wiring to do and some bolts to tighten. During all this, i will be taking apart the n/a motor that i had to learn more about it, and eventually rebuild the block.
Who all Went to the JCCS show in Long beach? (Japanese Classic Car Show). There were about 30-40 Zcars there, all amazing. I saw this one Z that caught my eye. The rear interior was the jaw dropping and gave me some ideas. I also bought this amazing shirt.
Look at this interior! That was all leather. I dont know who's car this is, but it was beautiful.
When i was at the Junkyard(MillikenPIckaPart, off the 60. 3 z's there right now, msg me if you have questions) i found myself a skid plate. when i was at the car show, there was a section called "original and unrestored" and it had the skid plate. im not sure if thats what it is called. but its a plate of metal that covers between the cross member and the radiator support. so far, thats the only car that i have seen it on. I will paint it and take a pic for you guys today.
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Motor is in, transmission in, and into driveshaft. transmission is boltedup, and the passsenger engine mount is mounted. Im having trouble trying to find out why my driver side mount isnt going in. any suggestions?
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anybody????
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Update:
Alright, As of now i got the harness and all other necessities in around the engine bay, except for the lighting system. The transmission is at a shop getting the back up light situation fixed, it should be back by today. all the seals have been replaced. So things are pretty much on schedule.
I was wondering what was the best way to put an l6 and a tranny back into the car. should i put tranny in first, and then engine? or put engine and tranny together, and try to get it in the driveshaft? any input will help. thanks
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UPDATE: 09/02/10
Finished painting, will be putting stuff back in such as harness, lines, booster, etc.
i ran into a huge setback. as you can see in the picture, i have a huge leak coming from my transmission. luckily i have MSA right down the street. around $11 for both front and rear seals. thats not the biggest problem. a few months back, i was taking out the reverse switch to put the nylon on it so it wouldnt leak. unfortunately, i stripped the threads on the casing. so i will have to find a humungous helicoil... anyways i will probably get the engine in sometime late sept or early oct. we will see.
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just bought a craftsman electric variable speed, 3amp, palm sander. lets see how this does in the engine bay
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UPDATE: 8/24/10 engine out, lines removed, sanding process begins
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what brand it the expanding foam? where can i get some? cost?
btw impressive work for doing everything for the first time
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im in fullerton. yeah man if your ever stumbled upon anything, im right in socal. were sooo lucky. MSA is about 15 mins from me
hahaUPDATE: the engine is sitting loosely on the mounts, just need an engine hoist on tuesday to pull it.
goals this week : pull motor, remove booster, lines, and misc from engine bay, sand, paint flat black.
haha
distinguish AFM and testing procedures
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted
i have an 81' turbo setup swapped into my 77. I am having trouble with finding the exact AFM test procedures. the pins read, from left to right, 35 34 33 32 25, and the stamp on the AFM reads, A31 624 600. then 1513, then l28. i have the chilton and, FSM for 81, and the Haynes. i cant find the correct test procedures because the pins in the book dont match to the ones on the AFM. please help
thanks in advance