[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

i was very nervous at the smog station (test only)...it passed!

 

it runs really rich though. ahem. anyways

 

i will start pulling the engine out this week, prep the engine bay, paint it, sand all the jams, and drop the turbo motor

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

nah man your not ruining the thread. the purpose of the roll-on primer is pretty much a filler, since all the work is all done by hand, the metal will never be 100% perfect. the flares are completely hand crafted with metal, no fiberglass. just an application of slight bondo, roll-on primer will make it perfect.

 

a few coats back and forth, and you will nice thick layer of primer to sand. after the sanding is done, the spray on primer will be applied.

 

i used a roller that is about the size of the width of my hand. the primer you can buy at any auto paint store. autozone does not count...

 

 

UPDATE: The car is back at home! taking it to the smog test only today, going to smog it with my original motor, and rip it out once i see that it passed.

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

what do you guys think? input guys input!! btw the flares are permanent now, so there is no change to that haha.

 

if you guys have any body designs or drawings or ideas, post them! my dad likes to fabricate.

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

haha thanks

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

08/17/2010

long day.

 

left quarterpanel primered.

 

rear end primered.

 

Roll-on primer. old school haha

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

Right Quarter panel done. I used roll-on primer because my dad requested, more like demanded. Atleast it will pay off in the end. im going to have to block it out and then the second coat primer is going on. going to be really busy this week because it has to come home by this weekend.

 

goals needed to complete

 

Left Quarter Panel

rear end

Rivet/silicone the wheel wells back in.

Rocker panels

 

 

The hatch can wait, and the jams i can sand and self etch at home.

 

In picture:

The car does not have a 10 in wheel gap in the rear....its on stands

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

Ok i deleted the recent pictures and began resizing them. i still dont know how to delete/edit orginal posts.

 

here are the body work pictures. old man is my papa.

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

In picture:

My dad make those nifty vents.

i like em.

[Crazyoctopus 1972 240z build up (long first post)]

im guessing a charged s2k engine as well. hmmm

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

The bodywork is almost complete.

 

Needs to be fixed and primered:

 

Hatch

Rearend

lower 1/4 panels

headlightbuckets

lower valence

jams

 

to be completed by August 24th 2010

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

Bodywork.

 

Shaved rear end

Pullout dings

Replace rust

FLARES!!??!

 

some old school work. Roll on primer on the roof.

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

The Beginning

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

The failed attempt

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

The trip

[Gary's 1977 Cali 280Z]

Car:

1977 280z for $1800 bought it in 2008.

Original Color: Silver. Current: White Goal: Superwhite (toyota factory)

My dad nearly killed me when he found out i bought a rust bucket on accident

The overall estimate in body work repair $5000 (good thing my dad is a body repairman)

 

Mods:

Tokico Blues & springs (totally regret it. should of saved for coilovers)

American eagle wheels, dished in the back

8mm Taylor wires.

NA distributor from 81

6-1 Headers, 2.5 exahuast w/ magnaflow

New Head (N42) from Datsun Parts LLC

Electric Fan

 

Story:

So i bought this car during my senior year during high school. When i bought the car, it ran very smoothly until the block decided to give out on me. The rings busted, and the head cracked. So, i decided to "rebuild" the engine with my zero experience. My first attempt was a complete disaster, i put in NEW clevite bearings without any measurements whatsoever. The worse part was, i tried to do this rebuild with the engine still in the car. Eventually i decided to just buy a used block and slap on a completely fresh head on top. That went well, for about a week. It started leaking all over the place. I have learned ALOT from all of this.

Currently, The Car is in for Body work and should be primered before August 24th 2010. I bought a 280zxt motor from a nice gentleman up in San jose for #1100. The entire trip costed me $1430. This was an excruciating experience, but one that was well worth it. I took 1998 tacoma which barely made it back to Socal. The Trip included two breakdowns, and severe tanning. the car also did not have a/c....

 

280ZXT Swap:

Came with

Non-egr, shaved and powdercoated manifold

New HG replacement

240sx TB w/ spacer

intercooler + piping

JKS fuel rail

Entire Harness, Ecu, AFM, ETC

Brand New Clutch

entire exahust system.

 

 

Here are some pictures of me and my father working on the Z

[WTB square port headers W/EGR tube & rest of exhaust]

ttt

[WTB square port headers W/EGR tube & rest of exhaust]

bump

[WTB square port headers W/EGR tube & rest of exhaust]

I need a stock square port header, egr tube, and rest of exhaust system. prefer good cat...

 

Will buy or trade my NA exhaust system for your stock + cash.

 

Spec. Square port, NON egr. 2.5" all the way back with a Magna flow. CRUSH bent.

The headers are oxidized, %100 functional. some sanding and paint will make it just like new.

 

I need the stock headers for CA smog check, and i just bought a turbo setup (installing after smog).

 

This is the perfect opportunity to get rid of your stock exhaust system and settle for an upgrade.

 

Will not Ship, Local pick-up only. (FULLERTON,CA) Will deliver as long as its not too far.

[Turbo piping set up? AFM location]

just the answer i was looking for! thanks.

 

i was a little confused when i read the first part, but then i read my post and just realized i worded it wrong. haha

 

thanks for the clear up though

[Turbo piping set up? AFM location]

I have a stock 81zxt motor setup. the manifold and turbo are stock. i have it setup to where the turbo is connected straight to the AFM by a coupler, then to a air filter. i want to move the source of to a cooler area, which is not right next to the A/C bracket which is where it is right now. So my goal is to essentially run piping to a different location.

 

my question is, should i run piping after the turbo, and then the AFM?

 

or should i run AFM, and then the piping?

 

would the placement of the AFM affect the air reading significantly or does it not matter.

[Silicone Couplers]

Hey guys, i just got a turbo set up and i was searchin around one day for some silicone couplers and found this awesome website which has almost any coupler you would need.

 

here you guys go.

 

w w w. hiprospeed .c o m

 

this place is based in Hacienda Heights, Ca and they specialize in Silicone hosing and Dyno.

[81zxt turbo upgrades/mods threads?]

okay so this new search option is such a pain to use. ive been trying to search this subject for quite a bit. could somebody give me leads or anything to such a thread?

[WTB 81zxt FSM]

as title states.

[Looking for l28et setup]

theguppies, thanks for showin me the ad, but for somereason i couldnt email him, but im very interested in that deal. do you think you can help me get his contact info?

[Looking for l28et setup]

looking for a l28 turbo setup with everything, afm , harness, ecu, coil, etc. everything to make it run. im also interested in a t5 if the price asked is fair. im just trying to see if anyone is tired of their turbo setup and wants to sell it as a full package.