garyneedsz

UPDATE: 8/24/10 engine out, lines removed, sanding process begins

what brand it the expanding foam? where can i get some? cost? btw impressive work for doing everything for the first time

im in fullerton. yeah man if your ever stumbled upon anything, im right in socal. were sooo lucky. MSA is about 15 mins from me haha UPDATE: the engine is sitting loosely on the mounts, just need an engine hoist on tuesday to pull it. goals this week : pull motor, remove booster, lines, and misc from engine bay, sand, paint flat black.

i was very nervous at the smog station (test only)...it passed! it runs really rich though. ahem. anyways i will start pulling the engine out this week, prep the engine bay, paint it, sand all the jams, and drop the turbo motor

nah man your not ruining the thread. the purpose of the roll-on primer is pretty much a filler, since all the work is all done by hand, the metal will never be 100% perfect. the flares are completely hand crafted with metal, no fiberglass. just an application of slight bondo, roll-on primer will make it perfect. a few coats back and forth, and you will nice thick layer of primer to sand. after the sanding is done, the spray on primer will be applied. i used a roller that is about the size of the width of my hand. the primer you can buy at any auto paint store. autozone does not count... UPDATE: The car is back at home! taking it to the smog test only today, going to smog it with my original motor, and rip it out once i see that it passed.

what do you guys think? input guys input!! btw the flares are permanent now, so there is no change to that haha. if you guys have any body designs or drawings or ideas, post them! my dad likes to fabricate.

haha thanks

08/17/2010 long day. left quarterpanel primered. rear end primered. Roll-on primer. old school haha

Right Quarter panel done. I used roll-on primer because my dad requested, more like demanded. Atleast it will pay off in the end. im going to have to block it out and then the second coat primer is going on. going to be really busy this week because it has to come home by this weekend. goals needed to complete Left Quarter Panel rear end Rivet/silicone the wheel wells back in. Rocker panels The hatch can wait, and the jams i can sand and self etch at home. In picture: The car does not have a 10 in wheel gap in the rear....its on stands

Ok i deleted the recent pictures and began resizing them. i still dont know how to delete/edit orginal posts. here are the body work pictures. old man is my papa.

In picture: My dad make those nifty vents. i like em.

im guessing a charged s2k engine as well. hmmm

The bodywork is almost complete. Needs to be fixed and primered: Hatch Rearend lower 1/4 panels headlightbuckets lower valence jams to be completed by August 24th 2010

Bodywork. Shaved rear end Pullout dings Replace rust FLARES!!??! some old school work. Roll on primer on the roof.

The Beginning

The failed attempt

The trip

Car: 1977 280z for $1800 bought it in 2008. Original Color: Silver. Current: White Goal: Superwhite (toyota factory) My dad nearly killed me when he found out i bought a rust bucket on accident The overall estimate in body work repair $5000 (good thing my dad is a body repairman) Mods: Tokico Blues & springs (totally regret it. should of saved for coilovers) American eagle wheels, dished in the back 8mm Taylor wires. NA distributor from 81 6-1 Headers, 2.5 exahuast w/ magnaflow New Head (N42) from Datsun Parts LLC Electric Fan Story: So i bought this car during my senior year during high school. When i bought the car, it ran very smoothly until the block decided to give out on me. The rings busted, and the head cracked. So, i decided to "rebuild" the engine with my zero experience. My first attempt was a complete disaster, i put in NEW clevite bearings without any measurements whatsoever. The worse part was, i tried to do this rebuild with the engine still in the car. Eventually i decided to just buy a used block and slap on a completely fresh head on top. That went well, for about a week. It started leaking all over the place. I have learned ALOT from all of this. Currently, The Car is in for Body work and should be primered before August 24th 2010. I bought a 280zxt motor from a nice gentleman up in San jose for #1100. The entire trip costed me $1430. This was an excruciating experience, but one that was well worth it. I took 1998 tacoma which barely made it back to Socal. The Trip included two breakdowns, and severe tanning. the car also did not have a/c.... 280ZXT Swap: Came with Non-egr, shaved and powdercoated manifold New HG replacement 240sx TB w/ spacer intercooler + piping JKS fuel rail Entire Harness, Ecu, AFM, ETC Brand New Clutch entire exahust system. Here are some pictures of me and my father working on the Z

ttt

bump

I need a stock square port header, egr tube, and rest of exhaust system. prefer good cat... Will buy or trade my NA exhaust system for your stock + cash. Spec. Square port, NON egr. 2.5" all the way back with a Magna flow. CRUSH bent. The headers are oxidized, %100 functional. some sanding and paint will make it just like new. I need the stock headers for CA smog check, and i just bought a turbo setup (installing after smog). This is the perfect opportunity to get rid of your stock exhaust system and settle for an upgrade. Will not Ship, Local pick-up only. (FULLERTON,CA) Will deliver as long as its not too far.

just the answer i was looking for! thanks. i was a little confused when i read the first part, but then i read my post and just realized i worded it wrong. haha thanks for the clear up though

I have a stock 81zxt motor setup. the manifold and turbo are stock. i have it setup to where the turbo is connected straight to the AFM by a coupler, then to a air filter. i want to move the source of to a cooler area, which is not right next to the A/C bracket which is where it is right now. So my goal is to essentially run piping to a different location. my question is, should i run piping after the turbo, and then the AFM? or should i run AFM, and then the piping? would the placement of the AFM affect the air reading significantly or does it not matter.

Hey guys, i just got a turbo set up and i was searchin around one day for some silicone couplers and found this awesome website which has almost any coupler you would need. here you guys go. w w w. hiprospeed .c o m this place is based in Hacienda Heights, Ca and they specialize in Silicone hosing and Dyno.

okay so this new search option is such a pain to use. ive been trying to search this subject for quite a bit. could somebody give me leads or anything to such a thread?