tommy260z

Anyone have an experience with Dynadeck? It looks good from the website but everything does. I want something I can put in place of the carpet because I don't want any. Bare metal is too exposed but a minor floor covering with some heat dampening properties would be great.

What did you wind up doing? I'm currently debating my options for this right now...

1 L t-shirt, Asphalt grey 1 L long-sleeved t-shirt, black 1 L hoodie, black Postal Code: V3M 0E6 (BC, Canada)

The R888 is what I run. I don't run as much power as you do but the R888 has taken care of whatever traction issues I had. Good tire. Lets us know how they handle the 550hp.

Thanks for the help guys. I ended up finding Toyo Proxes R888's at a warehouse across town for a decent rate so I stuck with them.

Hey All, I've been running Toyo Proxes R888 tires on my Z the past couple years and they've been great. Unfortunately, for whatever reason, I can't get them in Canada through my usual dealer this year. They're available online but the duty to get them to Canada would be ridiculous and so I'm looking for other options. Typically, due to traction issues I'm sure we all face, I run an R-compound tire (Yokohama Advan or Toyo Proxes) to maximize my stock suspension setup and 299rwhp. But I've been reading a lot on tire websites promoting Extreme Performance Summer tires and I'm trying to figure out if they're a lot of manufacturer mumbo jumbo or a decent option for someone with traction issues and whether or not there will be a massive difference in quality between them and an R-compound. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the suggestions guys, here's an update. I found a couple loose halfshaft bolts on both sides. Driveshaft bolts were tight. So I took the car for a test run and all seemed well for a few minutes until I started reaching speed and the vibration started again, only more pronounced. There was a momentary metal-on-metal rubbing sound and so I limped back to the shop.......where I found nothing. Everything under the car is tight and all seems well. The only thing left to do seems like pulling the rear end and having a look but again if anyone has any more suggestions I would be grateful.

A vibration in the car started while driving yesterday but I can't figure out exactly where it is coming from. It happens in all gears, even with cluth released, and is most noticable in the upper gears and with higher speed. I can feel it in the shifter and the steering wheel slightly and it is very pronounced in the gas pedal and the rear view mirrors. I can't hear it coming from anywhere. A couple things you should know: 1. the driveshaft bolts feel tight 2. the half shaft bolts feel tight 3. there isn't any play in the u-joints anywhere 4. the vibration does not get worse when turning the car If anyone has any ideas I'm kind of stumped and could use some help. Thanks!

Update: I wound up going to Mopac. Their dyno numbers might be a little low but their setup and staff were good. Got in for an hour and managed six or seven pulls, with fuel adjustments between runs. The reason I say the numbers might be low is because this car with the previous owner hit 290 on resnick's setup and only 237 today. The head was changed from an n42 to a p90 but the car is actually a bit faster with the new timing and higher boost the p90 allows. Either way, the AFR is set up now and I'd go back to mopac in the future.

When and where is the show?

Anyone know where I can find a dyno in the vancouver area? Specialty engineeing got one?

I recently assembled and installed a P90 head for my L28ET. The former head was an N42. The swap went well, all timing, etc seems to be set up. But the fuel pressure is suddenly sky high. Resting, it sits somewhere around 32psi (like it did with the N42) but as soon as the fuel pump is activated the needle is pinned to the max (60psi). The old set up would idle somewhere around 43psi and rise with revs. I'm pretty confused by this unexpected pressure. Is higher fuel pressure something somehow inherent with the combustion chamber design of the P90? Also, the fuel pump by the tank was installed by the former owner and doesn't have any apparent markings that I could search. Short of pulling it and dissecting it I'm stuck. Any help would be great...

That book is the bible. I bought it and followed the instructions and the head swap went pretty much flawlessly. Thanks.

Hey guys I'm in the beginning stages of changing over the head on my car from an N42 head to a P90 head and I'm wavering on whether or not to swap it over myself. Assembling the P90 was easy and disassembling the N42 and components (like the intake and exhaust) will be straightforward as well but I'm scared shitless of the timing. I don't know how to set it up, I'm unsure of top dead center and how to coordinate the cam and crank but more than anything I'm totally clueless how to make the wedge to hold the timing chain and keeper. Anybody done this before? Pictures would be awesome as well as any sort of play-by-play. I'm pretty much a novice.

Problem solved. The high beam switch wasn't making its internal connection between any of the contacts, once that was solved, pretso! Lights work. Now it's on to the head gasket which I think I blew this afternoon. Great times.