supernova_6969

June 15, 2020

mmm. no, i`m pretty terrible about it. but it is a simple proces, especially for the rear..

do you have a copy of the shop manual for our cars? I have a nice clean copy for 1982 and an average copy for 1983 (although I don`t know that there are any differences), oth digital. I could email you one if you need it...

but the rears are dead simple, you jack the car up, you take off those covers on the shock tower, undo the 3 nuts there, then you undo the bottom nut at the base of the shock... and presto you have a strut assembly on your hands.

from there, you have to compress the spring with the appropriate tool, undo the top nut, and everything is apart. install is the reverse. I did have a hard time putting the nut back on because the rubber bushings that came with the shocks were too thick, I did end up cutting I think two per side to about half their thickness.. I'd compare with the stock ones before you do so (for all I know I did it wrong), so when you take it apart, make certain you lay each stock part in the order you take them off the shocks, so you know which ones (new or old) goes where, and be able to compare the new parts and old parts for size.

For cutting them, I put them sideways in my vise, 1/2 in, and cut them with an xacto knife, a little bit, then rotate, rinse and repeat till you get to the center and it`s cut all around.

let me know how it went for you, and if you had to cut them too.

s

ps: the shop manuals also show you in what order to put all the little buits in cas, in a rush, you mix up all the rubbers and washers.... it`s a small drawing, but it does the job

June 15, 2020

that's about what I paid for mine here is the land of the pland of the mapple leaf.. in CAD$ so that's not bad, since you don't have to pay for shipping.

I just finished installing mine, actually, but I finished at 2am last night. no time to put on the wheels or take it out. Tonight I suspect... :--)

to make it easier to push down the transverse link, I ended up taking out the tension rod on both sides.. I'd say that putting those back on took 85% of the time and 95% of the effort. I suggest anyone try to simply pry the transverse link down with the tension rod on first.

June 12, 2020

wow.

that's a a lot of original parts.. especially for fancy shocks like the ones you got. it`s a little shameful on their part, I think.

I just did mine (to stock ones) and these are hard rubber bits, not soft spongy ones, and mine seemed to mostly be okay. my kyb (i'm cheap) came with 2 out of the 4 rubbers i think (I actually had to trim them down cause they were way too thick)..

i'd try my local parts store for anything that first the diameters of the parts. the inner diameter is crucial, the outer, you can possibly cut them up. same for the thickness.

my suggestion: call the local part store, make certain they have something that somewhat fits, and then go to town with whatever you have. worse come to worse, you stop mid-way for a trip to pep boys and everything is good as gold., and if you`re lucky, you can reuse the old ones. keep in mind, you probably don`t bottom out your shocks very often. I hope you don't anyways!

s.

ps: hey! I think you commented on shocks and springs my thread, actually.

pps: where are you and how much in a rush are you..? if you`re stuck, and in dire need of bushes, I can see what I have left over and if they are in any shape to ship out to you. not the best thing to do, but if yours are rotten, and mine still ok...

June 10, 2020

sorry it's been a while you posted.. I'm a bit of a late comer to the conversation.

out of curiosity,have you looked at replacement parts for the various models? if they quote you a different strut/shock model, then you know they are different, but if they are the same parts, then no difference.

I'm not certain what the weight difference would be between a coupe and a 2+2, but since the added weight is mostly towards the back and hte engine is the same, I'd be surprised if the front suspension would have changed at all.

s.

June 10, 2020

when I got my car (an 83) I had to replace the read brake pads (and maybe disks too, not sure) and one the calipers was stuck. I got it rebuilt and got a new hose for it...

I simply went to a hydraulic shop (where they make hydraulic hoses for hoes and tractors and what not) with my original hose, then guys matched the hose size and the fittings to some parts he had in stock and made me a new one.

The only thing was that one of the threaded parts, I forget which, was a little too long, so I cut it to length with a saw, cleaned up the thread, and when I installed it, everything was tip top. never leaked. I don't remember if there was a crush washer, but knowing myself I would have tried reusing the original one (probably with a leak as a bonus), and I don't remember dealing with that, so probably there wasn't one.

cost me probably 10$, maybe?

anyways, it's a viable solution if you can locate a shop like that.

s

ps: as for crush washers, if they are not indented, you can heat them up and let them cool off slowly to anneal them, make them good as new. of they are indented and you're cheap, you can possibly sand the surface until there is no indent and then anneal them.

June 10, 2020

hi!

so, I just looked into this thing with the Kia weatherstrip... People have been using 2000 sportage front door weathestrips to replace the weatherstrip around the hatch, succesfuly.. simply cut it to length and just use it? I've seen it done on the 1st gen, and I was curious about a confirmation for a zx model... Anyone?

ALSO, for the t tops and doors, I have the same issue as everyone else, with nothing fitting properly, gaps where the panels meet and a particularly large, 6 inches long gap (about 1/32nd or 1/16th thick) between the top rear of the driver door window and the seal.

I have actually used a piece of tubing inserted inside the weatherstrip, both for the 'strip where the door windows meet the b pillar and also the 'strip on the t-top, the one where the door's window meets the t-top. For the b pillar 'strip, you unclip the bottom part of it, and if you look behind it where the weatherstrip starts to bulge up (where it starts to become a seal) you can see an opening where it becomes a "tube", the part that that is supposed to push against the window. I got springy tubing at my local hardware store, (I forget the size, but probably around 1/2 inch OD), lubed it and simply inserted it in the weatherstrip to bolster it. Did exactly the same to the T-Top 'strip.

My success was... less than satisfactory. It did visibly make the weatherstrip bulge up a little when I was inserting the tube, and the shape is a little rounder, but it didn't do much of a difference in the seal quality. Some, but not much. And it didn't do anything for the gaps between the panels, as it only bulges up the seal outwards; I still get drips when I drive in the rain and I stop....

I'd be curious to see what would happen with larger tubes inserted in (if it is 1/2 that I got, then maybe 9/16 od and not much more, as that would probably stretch the 'strip too much), although I think that would be best done on weatherstrip that has been softened, maybe after a long exposure to the sun, as inserting the tubes I used was.. not a challenge, but let's say the weatherstrip was clearly nervous about it's first time, and not particularly relaxed...

s.

June 9, 2020

hey smoothz

let me know about the prices you are getting...

I'm in Canada, so obviously the price itself is different, but the deals might be too. I know that amazon, after I bought the shocks, raised it's prices (the prices were lowered since, I guess it realized I wasn't buying a second set). but it might be just for me, to try bleed me dry in case I repeat buy.

the shocks you want (well, the ones I bought) are

-Rear: the KYB KG9113 (Gas-a-Just Gas Strut, the middle quality out of 3 possible ones, essentially supposedly better than stock, but not quite serious aftermarket stuff).

-Front: the KYB 365013 (these are Excel G, the base shocks KYB makes, probably similar to stock ones; they are cartridges that insert into the shock sleeve after you remove the original sealed mechanism).

June 8, 2020

Hey Tokuzumi..

Can’t wait to see how you like it. I’m curious about the combo you have..

I'm not certain I follow the whole deal here (talking about deal, nice about saving 50$ if you buy all the things separate. Defeats the point of having a kit, but, hey, not my store). Are you saying that some people cut the shock tubes (which are the things in which you originally have the shocks, and in which you insert the new shock cartridge. right? The thing that goes from the ball joint to the spring and ultimately to the shock tower?)

I guess if you keep stock height springs, cutting the shock tube would shrink the overall height of the strut assembly. But yeah, that’s pretty hardcore… You have to be very confident in your welding skills.

Let us know if your lowering kit has actually lowered anything, or if, due to old setup sag, you end up getting a slight raise.. I know 79er had some issues with the springs you have, so I’m curious..

Thanks for the post, please post back when you’ve driven it for a couple of mile..

Just as an update for me, I have actually rebuilt the struts (well, changed the shocks and put it back together), but haven’t had a chance to put them in yet. Stay posted….

May 27, 2020

hey 79er

I just saw your video. yeah, not very low...

I just changed the rear shocks and I think the new ones (who aren't busted to hell like the old ones, no support or absorbtion left in those, ?i now know) make the car sit a bit higher than before, with the same old springs.

I just measured, and with stock sized tires, there is 4.5 inches between the top of the tire and the wheel arch... That gives you an idea or what a stock car should be. Eyeballing it, it seems to me that you might be a little lower than that. I'd be curious to see how much a brand new stock 280z had... Maybe they just had so much clearance that even a mild lowering spring makes a much wider gap than newer cars have..

now that i've seen it (mine), I think it sits a little high.. so if I ever buy springs, i'll probably got for drop springs.

have you fixed the problem in the front where you simply couldn't put it back together?

seb.,

ps: for the curious, I haven't driven her yet. i'll probably put the front shocks in and then got for a ride. I'll post then, to give impressions.. but just from pushing on the car, I went from bowl of jello to hard rubber. it's encouraging. maybe the car won't feel like it's floating on the road anymore....

May 22, 2020

and finally (third post to reflect what happened in the few weeks since I posted in the FAQs), I have 4 new KYB shocks on the way (2 bought on amazon, 2 on Rock auto, for prices; saved 150$ by splitting the order)..

I'll have the in the car in a week or so, i';l post to let you guys know what new shocks feel like with what I suspect to be 20-30 year old springs (I suspect anyways)

EDIT : I`ve since put the shocks in the car, and I`d advise anyone going through this for this car or any other older car, to check to see if you need the rubber shock boot/bellows and also consider buying new bump stops on all four corners. The other rubber I played with were in good shape on this repair (some spacers/bushes and stuff) but these were terrible (rotten or missing in the case of the bump stops). So do yourself a favor and order that before you take everything apart.

May 22, 2020

so, turns out I had originally posted this in FActs, and no one could reply. forstly sorry about that.

secondly, Jhm replied directly to me and and told me this:

Hello-

Unfortunately, you're finding that there's not a lot of off-the-shelf performance spring options for the 280ZX, which is the unfortunate fact of life. Most guys end up converting to adjustable coilovers to give them a wider selection of spring sizes and rates.

If that option does not appeal to you, I'd try replacing the shocks and see how much difference that makes. If your current shocks are worn out, a good performance shock can really make a big difference in how the car handles. Personally, I'd stay away from brands like Monroe and Gabriel, and focus instead on better brands like KYB and Tokico. You can even search to find a good deal on Konis.

Good luck with it.

May 22, 2020

hey guys

I have a '83 280zx pretty much stock everything except for the engine stuff (turbo and intercooler).

My car drives like a bowl off jello, and I wanted to buy new shocks and springs. and I'm cheap, so no super cool expensive coilover sets (beside the car doesn't run well, so I won't shell out money on a car that, after 4 years of screwing around in, still won't run well) and I don't want a car that too low for very daily driving.

I found out that KYB shocks are everywhere, there is some Gabriels as well on some sites. so I guess, for basic, stock like performance, i'm covered for shocks..

but the only springs I could find is an eiback lowering kit (1 inch lower) for a lot of money ( https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20c01 ).

if anyone aware of stock like (or mild drop) springs available anywhere? There are some AC delcos listed in a few place, but back order everywhere..

thanks!

seb

November 25, 2019

hey Randalla.

when you mean running 34 or 36 degrees, do you mean on ignition..? are you sure your cam timing is good?

November 20, 2019

Hey randalla.

Thanks for posting :-)

Nice numbers... I'm particularly impressed with the amount of torque and how much of it you're getting low-ish with dished pistons...

Must be a fun car to drive, without the hassle and the trouble and the gas money that can come with a turbo.

Just a question, why do you have two sheets that show very different result? Like, what info does each present?

S.

September 2, 2019

Sounds stupid and basic, but have you checked basic timing?

are you certain your injectors are giving enough (or not too much) gas? I forget if you have a O2 sensor. although, if it's not burning everything uip, the readings wouldn't be accurate.

s

August 30, 2019

Zcardude, let me know how that goes, and how easy it is to tune it (change the settings from stock to this one). I've been thinking of doing just that,... although I don't think tha's causing my multiple issues, so it'll have to wait.

August 6, 2019

Gmorrone: yeah, if changing it fixed it AND it looked broken chances are that's what did it.

Maybe it wasn't well stuck to the heatsink and couldn't evacuate all the heat..

August 6, 2019

Zcardude: thanks for posting..

seems like you only need some fine tuning. nice job.

Yeah, numbers are often not the whole story. if it`s fun to drive, then it`s good, whether you have 258 or 358 hp..

I just did some minor tuning on mine, and it went from total crap to almost total crap, and I'm very happy with the difference, so imagine a car that works properly..

If you do go back on the dyno after slight mods, make certain you post, it`ll be an amazing pre- and post- mod data.

March 2, 2019

Hey guys.

That's a hot topic.... Interesting. But i'll have to suggest ending the conversation for now to try to stay on topic.

Although i have to say: On paper, such a piece of software, fed the right info, should be perfectly right.

Unfortunately, while you might (or not) have fed it the right info, the programer might (or not) have made some mistakes...

Gollum, what would be interesting is for you to follow up your post once you finalise your tune, and post again. OR, even cooler, if you eventually get your car on a physical dyno, make certain you share; it might totally change people's view and give us tools to dyno ourselves ( i.e. software dynos).

In the meantime, it's important that people who share software dyno results spell it out... Gollum was right, the image did say it was from a virtual dyno, but i myself and too dumb to read everything and totally missed it (that does explain all the info about car weight and athmospheric pressire, which i found curious).

Thanks, and keep those dyno sheets coming!

March 1, 2019

Hey Gollum, NewZed.

Thanks for this; just a few days ago, i was thinking the same but refrain from bumping my own thread....

So Gollum, seems that your numbers are similar to stock, but with about 30hp and 30 torques more than stock....

The block, turbo and head are stock, and the boost you're running is low (Stock low, or even less, i think stock is 7psi)..

You've got better jnjectors but that doesnt add power in these circumstances, and same-ish for ignition (some hp, but not 30!)..

So my question is where is he extra power comimg from? Is it the MN47 heads matched with the block and piston that give you more compression?

And with the nice injectors and nice ignition set up, are you planning on giving it more boost eventually? Seems like your set up csn easily grt to 250-300 whp...

Seb

December 21, 2018

hey!

one option, if you're not already done, could be to super clean them, (rust and all) and then clear coat them. that sould protect tehm and keep the natural finish. and extra shine, depending on what clear coat you pick.

seb

October 12, 2018

looks awesome...

tell me, why is the rear feed zig zaging? is it some form of strain relief?

s

September 15, 2018

hey!

again,., awesome build...

quick question. while the panel beater is doing an amazing job, it`s going very slowly. I was wondering if this is some kind of side project for him in between other jobs, or if he actively spends a significant portion of his day on this...

thanks!

seb

August 15, 2018

Wow.

I keep email after email notification about my thread.... Thanks for all the posts, and gollum, again, you engine bay looks wicked... And the dash, well she might never win beauty contests but! I'd much rather work on your set up than any others!!!! And it's not ugly, it just has more function than form....

However! I must call things to order for a few posts!

Gollum: you say i have a bip 373 installed already??? If i'd built it, i'd know it inside and out but not only didn't i build it, I didn't even orser/buy it (previous owner).

I'll have to check it out, now i want to know where the bip 373 is at, and if it's set up properly (i'll see if the msextra manual calls for modifications or jumpers to make it work)...

If we're (well, i'm) in business, i'll have to figure what the other wires conected to the ignitor module do, and if i can simply delete it all...

Man, you've given me hope for a potential inexpensive fix... Well if the ignitor system is broken (for all my luck, it might be fully functionnal and my problem is something else).

Ill keep you guys posted.....

S.

June 20, 2018

when you think of compression, it helps to think of how much boost you think you`ll need to achieve your hp goal. to get 300-350, you need something like 10-15psi on a t3-t4 turbo. so you need to think of how much compression you get can away with for that psi... 8.1 is PLENTY low enough for those numbers if you manage your gas well. I think mildly dished pistons gets you that. I`m pretty certain flat pistons get you something like 9.x CR..

you might also want to think of which turbo you`re getting. if you want too spool time and low rpm boost threashold, you need a smaller torbo. that would be great, but you`d have to take into consideration that smaller turbo create a bit more heat (bigger intercooler OR lower CR ratio) and run out of breath earlier, although if you`re building an engine that won`t see anything much above 6000 rpms, you can probably get away with a lot.

I`d call a turbo shop (one of the big company) and tell them what you want so you can get an idea of what turbo you need and what kind of psi you`ll need at 6000 rpm to get 350 hp (maybe ask for 4000, so you have some margin of error, and room to grow).

if you run on e85, or on a mix of gas/r85, some ECUs will adjust the AFR accordingly (maybe even boost level). running e85 will get you less detonation, so you can run higher boost/get more hp with it. this way, you can get e85 for races, and still get gaz anywhere if you`re simply cruising on the street. but I'm not certain MS has that yet..

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Posts posted by supernova_6969