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supernova_6969

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Posts posted by supernova_6969

    Why would you ship that from America? A 2+2 story

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by supernova_6969

    Hey.

    Those caps you are making...  I'm guessing the "coyote made american turbine" are your wheels?

     

    if do, are you planning on painting or chroming  the caps you are making to match?

     

    oh, btw, you mentionned autoban (you lucky bastard).  have you read the posts on he aerodynamic testing of the various body kits for our cars?    most kits, and definately the stock form, have an issue with eh front end becoming very light at high speed.  in most uncivilised places whre tehre are speed limits, that's not so much of an issue, but it might become one for you.  you should check it out, only to make certain you're aware.  

     

    if  you think it's an issue, you can then plan accordingly..

     

    also, that splash guard might play a role in the front end lift, i'm not certain, I forget is they included a with/without.  I know on some other cars, it does do something....  there is this series on some website http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=113176 where the guy tests all sorts of things like that, and its really worth it.  actually most of his articles are really interesting..  

    Why more horsepower with a carb

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I'm not certain how true your statement is (and by how much HP/trq), but there is at least one thing that I think could influence this..

     

    injected engines are relatively more modern, and were partly used to help with the emissions.  that means not wasting any gas that will end up in the air we breathe, which also means making certain things are as lean, or as stoichiometric as possible.

     

    carbs, on the other hand, being from an earlier time where emissions were as interesting as a shaven chest on a straight guy, might be more generous and allow for a richer AFR.  it's a fact stated and supported elsewhere that having a 13.5 afr is better for acceleration/torque/hp producing than say, the ideal 14.7.....  

     

    that being said, though, anyone ale to tune their injected engine (aftermarket ECU) should be able to negate this advantage, however..  possibly even make injection more powerful since the gas would be better atomized/mixed, in theory.  

    ITB, Dual throttle bodies - when does it help

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    from what I understand, I think you are right about less restriction, allowing more air to come in faster (on top of having a shorter and straighter route to travel)

     

    I think it also has to do with the fact that with more carbs (unless you are talking about injection), you can fine tune your AFR better ( think of it as having two small hammers instead of a sledge hammer.  more precision)

     

    One of the things about ITB is that you can tune the stacks so that they are just the right length to encourage the air to go in faster (I'm not clear on how that works, but that's why i'm not a car engineer)

     

    but i'm certain there is more to be said about it. 

     

    don't forget there are also some relative downside, like not having any vacuum since there is no plenum from where the pictons would suck up the air. it's more expensive and harder to tune.  there are more moving parts...

     

     

    PS: also I think that the way they look adds more horsepower.  I mean seriously, ITBs, or even duals, are so cool....

    Are my expectations too high?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    SO i was thinking, the work you did on your engine is not so much tunning as a tune-up.  if you did that properly, you brought the engine back to stock power at least, and maybe added a few HP.  but I wouldn't expect more than 5-10 more than stock from simple cleaning/tuning.  

     

    the exhaust might give you a few more, but not that many either.

     

    with the stock computer, you won't be able to do more than that.  having an AFR might tell you whether the stock ECU sends it enough fuel, but you won't be able to change the amount of fuel based on your needs.  the stock ECU is untunable.  

    if you get yourself a programmable ECU (megasquirt, wolf(?), haltech, you name it), AND an AFR meter, you can continue to tune it a little more scientifically, making sure the engine is not too lean, not too rich anywhere (remember, most places say that cruising should be between 14.5 and 15.5 for fuel economy and around 13.5 for max power/acceleration).   HOWEVER, making certain you're neither rich nor lean does not make your engine make it's max power;  it just makes certain you're not blowing it up for being too lean or wasting gas and fouling up your plugs from being too rich... 

    once you're kindof tuned to the right AFR, to get the most out of the engine, you need to get it on a dyno, where a pro can fine tune it to what you want (low- med or high-end power/torque), making it potentially gain up to 10-20 hp/trq in certain places on your curve, depending on how good (how lucky) you did on the tuning to begin with. 

     

    now, while you are at it, if you add cams to it, some porting and all that, well, the sky is your limit. well until something blows.  the one thing you have to consider is no matter where you're going, you'll need to be able to tune the amount of fuel you're sending in there.  that comes first.  once you buyu that, you can either tune it as it is and keep it like that until you buy and install new parts, or if you are rich, you can buy it all at once and just go for broke.  

     

    all that said, if you go for broke, you might literally break your engine.  with a nice cam and tune, you can bring the engine to relatively high power and the old stock might strain at the seams from that.  then again, the L6s are knows to be rather solid... 

    NA build vs stockish Turbo engine for endurance racing - reliability?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by supernova_6969

    I'd go for a NA...  a well built one should last a long while, and provided it's build with the right cams and pistons, you should get plenty of power and torque without any lag.  with a mild overbore, a flat or slightly domed piston, and you're good to go.  

     

    the way i see it, in the end, you need to rebuild the engine one way or the other (I don't think any 30 year old engine without a relatively fresh rebuild will last 10 hours of flogging).  and then if you turbo it, you need to buy a turbo on top of it.  

     

    one thing for certain, no matter what the build, you need to start with a really good block, tested in a professional shop for cracks or other issues, potentially with all the mating/bearing surfaces redone (which could raise the compression, which is great for a NA motor, not so for a turbo).

     

    ****I just thought of this.  if you go here http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123487-compare-your-dyno-sheets-here/, you can see the dyno sheets of a bunch of engines, a few of them NA.  that's show you what power they got with what parts...

    replace fuel damper with other type or FD....

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    hi tony.

     

    thanks for the info about the location.

     

    however, does JeffP have a stock fuel rail?  cause I'm thinking the closest you can put a damper on that fuel rail is around where the fuel filter is.  what kind of damper did he end up using?

     

    I'm not certain I get the "bed under the car in 1/2" stainless)...  but I get that having to go under the car is a drag...

    replace fuel damper with other type or FD....

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    Hi!

     

    I recently discovered that my fuel damper is sweating gas....    

     

    inline ones like the stock ones seem to cost at least 70$ (for a bosh that's like ours) and as much as 150$ for OEM ones.

     

    I've seem some cheaper ones, but they weren't inline..  most are types that you screw right into the fuel rail.  

     

    I was wondering if anyone had ever tried to take one of the screw in types and added it to our system, with a t-junction along the location of the original damper...?

     

    thanks

     

    Luna: The cause of, and solution to, all of my problems

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    andy, a quick question.  qhich wiring set up did you use for you megasquirt?  did you follow the moby the van/DIYautotune model (https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/ ) or another source?  

     

    I've been having a lot of issues with my set up andI'm just gathering as much info as possible..

     

    thanks.

    and it's nice to think we'll hear more about your car!

     

    s

    need help QUICK! difference between turbo and non turbo slave cylinder

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Hey guys.

    A few days ago, encouraged by newzed's comments, i bought what the auto part store defined as "non-turbo" (engined) 280zx clutch slave... as a reference, it's like the fatter one in the two photos i posted in the first post...

    Turns out it fits my car no issue...

    The cylinfer/piston diameter was around 3/4 of an inch (plus or minus a few thou), just like my original, except the outer diameter was much skinnier.

    So go forth and buy the cheapest you can get, no matter what the model, as they all appear ro be thr same.

    need help QUICK! difference between turbo and non turbo slave cylinder

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    hey again, Newzed

     

    i looked with the  guys in their system, and they had the two pictures i showed in my original post, the black cylinder for the turbo, and the grey for the non turbo.  

    I myself thought the same as you, that it`s just the computer asking for a model, but the different pictures and prices threw me off.  doesn't mean they are not the same though....

     

    that said, i'll take the original one apart tonight and go to a hydraulic's place tomorrow bright and early, see if they have a seal/washed that would fit.  it's not kosher, as you are supposed to change the whole piston, but if it works, even for a few days, I'l be more than happy.  if not, then i'll just order whatever is in stock, and re-sell it on ebay or here if I can't fit it in my car....

    need help QUICK! difference between turbo and non turbo slave cylinder

    in Drivetrain

    Posted · Edited by supernova_6969

    thanks for the reply newzed. 

     

    from what i understand, it does seem to be rather universal....   

     

    all the auto parts I talked to had two parts, one for turbo, one for n/a, and with a different price attached to them.   but this seems to show it's all the same...  

     

    encouraging.

     

    however, i checked on z car source, and they have a universal model, with what appears to have an adjustable piston, and model specific ones for turbo or non turbo, all three with a different price..

     

    can any one else with personal experience chime in?

    Clutch Issue

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    have you tried removing (like unbolt and move it aside) the slave cyl and engaging/disengaging the clutch by hand with an assistant that tries to shift gears at the same time?

     

    it might be hard (should be really, with a new clutch plate) but if you can disengage teh clutch, shift and re-engage the clutch manually, then that might indicate that that part is working.

     

    also, doing that, you might be able to have someone gently press the clutch to see the slave cylinder's action.  I don't knwo how it's supposed to work, but I'd go gentle to make certain you don't shoot the piston right out of there.  

     

    not much of a solution, but it might help you figure out where the problem lies.

    need help QUICK! difference between turbo and non turbo slave cylinder

    in Drivetrain

    Posted · Edited by supernova_6969

    ******edit, one week later: seems the slave cylinders are all the same, even though the auto part stores have different photos for different years or car models.. i bought the "wrong" one, which had a larger outer diameter, and it worked perfectly.

     

     

    Hi!

     

    situation: I'm in a bind, I had to leave my car in a parking lot somewhere, and i need to fix the car and drive it somewhere safe like, ASAP.

     

    QUESTION: does anyone one know if the turbo and non turbo slave cylinder are interchangeable and if not, why?

     

    here is the story:

     

    I have a 1983 280zx. a bit of a Frankenstein, with parts from different cars, rebuilt by the previous owner.

     

    i was driving today, and I ended up stalling twice while trying to leave a light. the third time I realized i had a hard time engaging first. I managed to limp to a parking lot and realized that I had no more clutch. I looked, and the clutch slave cylinder is dead. it puked all over the place.

     

    The car is in a restaurant parking lot, I had to leave it there, and it'll spend the overnight there (at least, hopefully not more).

     

    I pulled the slave out, and it looks like this

     

    post-49697-0-16157900-1463615825_thumb.jpg

     

    I made a bunch of calls, and the local auto parts could get me within a day the NON TURBO slave, which I believe looks like this

     

    post-49697-0-88077800-1463615824_thumb.jpg

     

    I'm wondering if there is a difference. since none of the places have it in stock, if I order it I can't return it.. also that means i'll have lost a day waiting for it.

     

     

     

     

     

    thanks

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