kamikaZeS30

Sweet, thank you. I knew it had to be somewhere, I must've missed it when I looked through the stickies in the FAQ section.

This may seem like an odd-ball request, but I was wondering if anyone had some detail drawings of the various R200 input/pinion yokes? The one in particular I am looking for is the rectangular one with 10mm bolts, I believe. I mainly need to know what the pilot hole diameter is, the bolt pattern and how it is all related to the center and outside edges, something I could possibly give to a machinist. Or, maybe a local member (San Diego area) who'd be willing to loan me a spare to use as a template/model? I'd probably only need it for a day. If this material has been posted, I apologize, but my forum search yielded nothing.

There's nothing that says you can't, I would just think for maintenance and adjustment purposes it'd be easier to mount it in the engine bay. How are you going to make the 3/8" return work with the fuel tank, or did you get a fuel cell or modify your stock tank?

Why are you running a dead-head and a bypass? I went with a bypass to eliminate fuel surges. Wouldn't putting a dead-head regulator after the bypass regulator bias the bypass by causing pressure build-ups in the line between the dead-head and the bypass on the feed side? I'm relatively new to these types of fuel systems, but if you have to run two regulators you might want to look at changing your pump. For most applications (unless you're going to run a mix of fuels) I would think you'd want a low-pressure, high-volume pump?

I CAN DRIVE MY CAR NOW. *celebrates* Well, at least, it goes into gear. The brakes still aren't working like they should be (I ordered a new booster). I swapped in the Duralast (AutoZone) slave cylinder, bled it, got more movement from it than I did the plastic one. It turns out I needed to move the push-rod further out on the pedal. I think I need to adjust it down a little, because there's no play at all in the pedal and I'm of the opinion there should always be a just a little. Now, I just need to get my brakes to work...

rev: the slave that I have installed right now has no bleed valve, you have to take the slave out of the hole, drop it down and gravity bleed it. My fork is moving, yes. I will try removing the stopper and adjust the pedal out more and see if that works. I will also be getting rid of the slave cylinder I have in favor of the auto zone one.

I had this same problem with mine a while back. I used a lighter (don't try this at home kids!) to burn the fuel out of the float (wear gloves!) and then soldered it back together with some good solder. Whole process took about an hour, the time-consumer is you have to get the brass hot enough to melt the solder, which takes awhile since it conducts heat so well. In my method you know there's no more fuel when it won't burn without you lighting the lighter/match. Or use Tony D's Method. Probably less dangerous, but nothing is more entertaining than watching a four-foot flame front stretch out from the float when you point the hole toward the ground.

I think you're onto something with the fuel-pump relay. Especially if it's sparking, it could be shorting and grounding something out (hence why it seems to effect the entire electrical system). It would also cause your car to stumble, since it's FI any drop in fuel pressure would be immediately noticeable in engine operation. After doing some reading on random google results for "280zx dies" (as Miles suggested), it seems it has a lot to do with the +12v coming from the ignition switch. My guess is that your coil, starter and fuel pump relay are all tied together somewhere on those circuits (the "start" and "run" positions on your ignition lock cylinder switch) and maybe that sparking relay has something to do with it. Also, have you checked your ignition module?

Fuel situation solved... elegantly, might I add. However, persistent clutch problems remain. I looked on Vatozone's website saying that the metal Camaro slave w/ bleed screw was special order. I just happened to walk in to the right one, apparently, because they had it on hand (score!), so I picked it up (for less than what their website lists as the retail price!) and just to make sure I doubled checked the p/n with this HybridZ thread (on my Android, I don't know what I did before I got this phone). I will be installing and bleeding it, tomorrow. I may order a Tilton 7/8" M/C just in case, because the Wilwood makes my firewall bulge. It would suck if I ended up fatiguing the metal, no bueno.

Emeraldlion: I just tested my set-up, earlier today. Results were excellent. Details in this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99424-fuel-line-question/page__view__findpost__p__933657

I ran the bypass regulator on the 14 PSI pump and the most reduction I could get was down to 9 PSI. I even upped the size of my return line. The pump did not have a built in pressure relief to dial its own out-put down. So, I went with a Holley "Red" pump, I finished the install today and tested it. Absolutely perfect 5.5 PSI, steady. The Holley pump is also much quieter than the one I had in there before, it's more like the mellow "hum" of an aquarium pump than like the almost "weed-whacker" noise that came out of the other one. Grumpy, I read your posts about the topic before, they've been very helpful. I feel enlightened everytime I read one your posts here. My fuel system layout is exactly like the diagram you have there and it works beautifully now. Exact details of my set-up (in order from tank to carb): Stock 240Z fuel tank Duralast brand 3/8" inline filter (for the big stuff) Holley "red" fuel pump (97 GPH 7 PSI) 1/4" stainless steel return hard line (runs between tank and bottom of regulator with roughly 12" of rubber hose on each end) 3/8" stainless main feed hard line (runs between fuel pump and regulator, 18" of hose on engine bay side before regulator, 6" from pump side) Earl's compression fittings at all junctions of the hard lines Earl's 10 micron performance filter 3/8" hose barbs, before regulator Holley 12-803BP "Bypass" regulator (4.5~9PSI) w/ Earl's 3/8" NPT to 3/8" and 1/4" hose barbs (on feed and return side) Earl's 3/8" NPT adapter to 3/8" hose barb with topside 1/8" npt fitting where resides a Earl's fuel pressure gauge (3~18 PSI) Then to carb via a 12" rubber 3/8" hose I do want to back eventually and replace all of the rubber hose with AN line, but that may have to wait until I get the clutch working and win the lottery-- because AN is really expensive. What would be even spiffier, is if I can find someone that is trying to get rid of their stock tank, pay a radiator shop to make some modifications to the stock tank (like add a sump with 1/2" fitting both in and out) and then run bigger diameter lines. I wanted to use 3/8" return and feed, but the stock return on the tank was 1/4".

emeraldlion: I am using the same regulator, keep us updated, as I am having problems with my fuel systems. I got my hands on a Holley "Red" Fuel pump, supposed to flow like 70 GPH at 7PSI. Might be what you're looking for. I am going to test it today. Just a note: I had problems with the tiny stock return line, you might need to go up a couple of sizes in tubing for the return, as most of these fuel system components like Holley, Barry Grant, et al. were designed with equal ID feed/return in mind.

Okay, so, after all the hassle of running new stainless lines, installing a return bypass fuel pressure regulator and everything, I have come to realize the wrong fuel pump was installed. 14PSI pump on an application that requires no more than 6 PSI at the carb. FML.

Thank you for posting the part numbers, guys. I will probably be picking one of those up soon. Not sure which one, yet. I have to get my fuel system working, guy who did my swap (through no fault of his own, distributor's mix-up) ended up putting in a pump that was too high pressure for my application, so now I have to hitch a ride to go spend $150 for a different pump, install, then take the other pump back for reimbursement, then I can test my clutch. Should be reporting my clutch results by next week.

Yeah, that's why I went with a heavy wall-thickness stainless tubing and I tried tucking it as much as possible. Eventually, I think I will make a sheet-steel shield to protect it. The biggest problem I had was routing it so it didn't interfere with the rear suspension.

Well, I went to Industrial Metal Supply and got some stainless tubing, 1/4" and 3/8". I installed the Holley FPR on the stock hard-lines and the return line was too small to bleed enough pressure, so the 1/4" and 3/8" should do the trick. So far I have the stainless tubing routed and bent into the shape it needs to be, I also got some earl's compression fittings to help me with the job. Since I am unable to remove the old lines (trans, exhaust, drive-shaft, etc. are in the way), I ended up routing it next to the in-board side of the passenger's side frame-rail (I have the bad dog full-length rails). Shooting for 5-6 PSI on this set-up. I'll have pictures once it is completed.

Wouldn't that make some kind of audible noise? My engine isn't that loud.

The only thing faster than a V8 Z is a V8 Miata. And, having owned both stock and modified Miatas (I haven't had a v8 one, yet, though) I can say that they NEVER disappoint.

I love that movie. I was just waiting for someone to chime in with that. "THERE'S NO FIGHTING IN HERE, THIS IS THE WAR-ROOM!"

After seeing ktm's masterful piece of work in this thread, I decided to pony-up the cash and devote a little time to installing my own blend of gauges. I went with the 4" Revolution series Quad Combo gauge in place of the stock tachometer, because I wanted to add gauges without loosing any instrumentation or having to find places that weren't visible from outside the vehicle. I am also relatively new to custom fab. In addition to that I got the 4" Revolution series GPS 160MPH Speedo w/ built-in turns and brights indicators, 2 5/8" Revolution series 8K tachometer, the Innovate MTX-L 2 1/16" wide-band and a standard AutoMeter mechanical 2 5/8" vacuum gauge (was already installed on the car when I bought it). I am thinking I will replace the vacuum gauge with something else down the road, just not sure what, yet. Boosted v8 may be in this car's future. > The way I went about installing them is probably "innovative" but most people would probably SADFACE at my methods. I will say that it involved a hot-glue gun, lol. To mount the wide-band, I used the plastic mounting adapter ring that came with my 2 5/8" tachometer, as that one was already a perfect fit for the existing bezel. I still haven't calibrated the fuel gauge, that will come once I get the fuel system working the way it should (i.e. not flooding the carburetor on start-up or vapor locking because the fuel-lines are too close to the exhaust). You can see in the second picture that I used my lack of HVS to route the programming button for the tach through the center vent and, since mine's an early 240, I mounted the dimmer dial where the cigarette lighter goes on the later cars. I thought that was nifty, lol. Here is the result (sorry, they're day-time pics):

Will those 45 LED tower types fit in the housing, though? That's the only thing that has kept me from ordering them.

What do you mean by "frozen"? Like water vapors freezing and causing the components to stick, or like mechanically frozen together somehow? Mine sat for about 6 months with the engine and transmission assembled, but I don't live someplace that gets cold enough for it to "literally" freeze.

Thanks guys, at least you're pointing me in the right direction! I've always thought smog regulations were a big scam, anyway. Don't get me wrong, I like the idea of clean air, but I think it's kind of retarded to pick on 10% of the population that does like to modify cars, when it doesn't make much of a difference. As far as I'm concerned, if you pass the actual EMISSIONS test, you should pass. Especially since we stopped using leaded gas a long time ago. Also, since California has done a pretty good job of destroying its domestic industry, not just through extant pollution regulations, but through taxation and other laws governing business they've pushed a lot of the pre-1980 industrial pollution out-of-state (or overseas). Which is why I laugh when these various agencies pat themselves on the back and say "look at what a good job we've done." In all honesty, I'd be less worried about inhaling what comes out of someone else's tail pipe and (especially in central California) more worried about breathing in airborne pesticides or drinking deliberately fluoridated water. But, I digress, that is not the topic of this thread.

Tony, so what is the actual requirement then if there is a cost limit? If you pipe clean, but fail visual, what are one's options for correction? If it's your own car, you'd think they'd let you spend as much money as needed to make it pass? I'm confused about this "cost limit" stuff? If it can't be fixed for a certain amount of money, it just automatically gets grand-fathered or do they just take your vehicle? I'm asking because I'm curious.

I guess I'll be hitting the magazine aisle at the grocery store, next time. By that count I still have 5 years to go. LOL! By the way, are those wheels SSR Longchamps?!