kamikaZeS30

I guess the term "figure of speech" escapes most people. As well, it was also a jab at the general "I want HIDs" crowd. As it seems blinding other drivers on the road is what HIDs are for-- due to the fact that no matter how well one's lights are aimed, if one encounters anything that would change the car's attitude or angle of incident (speed bumps, pot-holes, dips, etc.) relative to other cars on the road, one will end up flashing the other drivers. Food for thought. Unless, of course, one makes some kind of gyroscopic mount for them, which I doubt anyone here is going to go through that kind of trouble. My head lights are aimed properly, they're really damn bright, though.

I run the Schroth 4-point system in my 71 240. I mount the harness using the stock lap-belt positions and I also bolt it to the shock tower in two places. I have never been in an accident with this particular car (for which I am thankful). The mountings all seem really solid. I would shy away from mounting them on a STB, unless we're talking about something that has been welded in and is, now, effectively part of the frame/sub structure of the body. There's several different 4 and 5 point systems I know of that are DOT approved (Schroth and Simpson both make streetable harnesses, I believe). I have been pulled over and ticketed in this vehicle, once. However, the officer didn't ask any probing questions or ask to see anything on the vehicle other than my license, registration and proof of insurance. He actually complimented me on the car, I was embarrassed though because my passenger's side window crank had fallen off and I couldn't roll down the window for him. He said he clocked me at 84, but wrote the ticket for 75, since I wasn't a ****. This was on the 805 heading south by Home Ave. in San Diego, CA. I guess the idea is: don't cause major trouble on the road (i.e. reckless driving), respect the badge (I never really liked cops, myself, but I can empathize with them and we need them) and don't advertise (for more reasons than just cops, thieves are plenty in this area).

If you're gonna go through all that trouble and want to save weight, I'd fab an S30 dash out of CF or FG. I've seen some really nice FG dashes out there, for relatively cheap. The one thing that's cool about the 240sx is if you get the HUD out of it.

Starion seats, huh? They look a lot like the 85-89 MR2 seats, but they don't have the plastic "neck" supporting the headrest. Those look like they'd make a bad ass pair if you got them recovered, good find!

johnc yeah, I thought about the brakes right after I finished the post. I'm using the Toyota four-pistons in the front, with the larger ZX master-cylinder and I have the ZX rotors with Maxima calipers in the back. I'm looking at upgrading to the Wilwood kit in the future. Thanks for the info, it doesn't sound like it'd cost that much to do. It should work for something like a pop-up. I'm not looking for something like a 26' airstream. I'm just looking for a small camper to fit two adults for weekend trips and such. Dealer option hitch? That might be another way to go. I'm wondering which S30 bodies that would fit. I forgot to mention the car is a series one, '71 s30. It doesn't have some of the neat things like reinforced bumper mounts that the 74+ had.

I was thinking of doing something to beef up the rear sub-frame a bit more; like, possibly, swapping for a thicker mustache bar, making some steel angle to ad more material to the existing sub-frame. If I can figure out a way to mount the hitch to the sub-frame, that would probably be ideal. Unfortunately, the stock gas-tank looks like it's going to make things difficult.

I don't have a true HID kit, but I did install these H4-type Xenon lights I got off of E-bay for like $25. Without any modification to the electrical system my headlights were a lot brighter. Since then I have installed the relay upgrades from MSA, now my lights regularly blind other drivers. Big improvement without all of the draw-backs and pain of installing true HIDs. Oh, and the kit comes with lifetime replacement for the bulbs. They're the flat-faced type housings, I'm not found of the round ones. They also have good weather-sealing. I had real HID headlamps in my Integra GS-R, they were not terribly expensive, but it was a pain trying to find someplace in the engine bay to mount the ballasts and the end-product was okay, but worth the money and hassle? Not really. The full name of the product I got is "MiiG MRC6024 Rally Euro-Cut 7" HID Headlight Conversion Composite Kit," if anyone is curious. I knew it wasn't a real HID kit when I ordered it, and to be honest, I like these better. Nice bright, white light without being too focused or intense like HIDs, I like the diffusion.

I know this may seem somewhat counter-intuitive to why most of us chose to do V8 swaps. However, by my calculations, I should, in theory, have more than enough torque to pull a small camping trailer (about 400 ft.lbs. of torque). I guess the question becomes the logistics of actually pulling one. I do not have a lot of experience with pulling trailers. I love camping, but my parents never had much money when I was growing up so we'd either A) ride along with someone in my family that had an RV or B ) (which was most often the case) load up the back of the car with a tent, sleeping bags and gear. I have been perusing craigslist for light-weight tear-drop or pop-up tent trailers, I don't imagine these weigh more than 800~1000 pounds (I found one that I really liked but it said it was 1700 lbs.). Some concerns I have are: If I did mount a hitch, I would want a removable type rig, so that I'm not driving around like a red-neck with a hitch sticking out the rear. Body stress, I have the Bad-Dog rails and a few other minor frame-tweaks which make the car nice'n'stiff, however, while I don't plan on breaking any speed-limits while towing, do you think this is acceptable or would further reinforcement be necessary? Wiring is another issue, how does one wire-up a trailer properly, would this put undue load on the Zs electrical (I do have the new-style MSA fuse-block, and all the relay upgrades). Also gearing, I'm using an R200 with 3.54, mated via the shaft to a T-5 from a Camaro (.82 OD). I'm looking for friendly advice from people who probably have owned trailers or know enough about camping with RVs to answer some of these questions. I know, you probably think trying to tow a trailer with it is stupid, but, I work with what I have. I don't particularly feel like spending $15,000 for a pick-up so I can pull a $1500 trailer. Or, for that matter spend $15,000 for a used motor home, which I can't park anywhere.

Yeah, I'm working with Mark, to see if I can use his camera at the shop to take pictures, mine digital camera has a bum battery and I'm saving to buy a better one.

Yeah, I'm selling them now, the sooner I can sell them the better, I'd only need 800, tops, for them. You get the manifold, the air cleaners, the linkage. I also have a set of velocity stacks for them. Like I said, 800, it's yours. My engine's out of the car, the carbs are ready to come off. Please PM me if you're interested. Thanks.

I live in San Diego, we don't get a whole lot of "weather" but it is prone to rapid barometric pressure changes. Screws with my sinuses all the time. That's part of it, there's a lot I've been finding out about the Webers over the past two years or so since I got them. One, mine are solid-mounted, which they apparently shouldn't be, and I don't have the extended venturis that protrude into the inside of the air-cleaner. A lot of the flat-spots I get are related to these two issues-- not the jetting, which is why I was tuning them every two weeks, before. Basically, once I get the engine above 4500, it starts to pull really freaking hard, but I have to **** with the throttle to keep it from sputtering. Because the carbs are solid mounted, the vibrations cause aeration of the fuel in the bowl, therefore, you get air-bubbles while the fuel is trying to travel uninterrupted through the jets. Also, without the venturi extensions, air tends to stall as it is slammed into the carb. The problem being, I know not enough about Webers to source the parts to fix these issues. I had no idea that there was even a spring used for mounting these, nor did I know about longer venturis. I would have swapped for Mikunis a long time ago if they weren't as expensive as just building a V8. The Webers do have a leg over the Mikunis in finite tuning capability, but I don't race professionally, so it's kind of a moot-point. I also prefer FI to carburetion, it's a generational thing I guess, give me an ECU, some sensors and a laptop any day. But, good EFI systems will run more than an engine. :/ Edelbrock should do just fine, very little to adjust, from my understanding.

Rear discs wouldn't hurt, you'll need to swap in the ZX master cylinder while you're at it. I'm running Tokico HP with Eibach springs and adjustable collar. It's a nice, stiff, set-up. I need to get the Suspension Techniques sway-bars, myself, because the ones I'm running won't work in the rear with my new rails. The Wilwood big brake kit is nice, but you could build something functionally similar for less, the toyota four-pistons are good calipers, regardless of what the aftermarket crowd says (yeah, who would've thought that aftermarket companies would try to bad-mouth home-brew solutions?). Pair that with a set of ZX calipers in the rear, some good maxima rotors and pads, plenty of breaking power for a car that weighs less than 2400lbs--even with a V8 in it. Order the bad dog rails and take out your rusty ones. Unless you mean the engine bay rails are rusty, too? That's considerably more work, but can be done. How are you planning on mounting your diff? I recommend the mustache bar from Arizona Z car, and the billet diff brace. I will be running that set-up and "strapping" the nose. Not right away, because I need to save up the $560 to get the AZC parts, but they're worth it. Functional and instant bling. As far as everything instantly breaking upon completion of your swap: just baby it while you build it back up, again. I, personally, don't plan on dragging mine, maybe the occasional AutoX on the weekend, mostly just spirited driving around town and on the freeway. In reality, as long as your original unibody is in decent condition, the amount of reinforcement needed to handle up to 350HP is relatively minor. You're talking maybe like $700 in parts (rails+good front/rear braces).

I paid 5000 for a 240z because it had a clean title and it was an original CA car (little to no rust, except for what was caused by a busted heater-core, luckily floor-boards are easy to do in that car). I would've probably paid no more than $500 if it was the exact same car with a salvaged title. Due to the fact that even if I completely restored the car to original condition (i.e. spent thousands in frame and body work alone) it would still be an undesirable, because it now has SALVAGE in big, nasty letters on the top-right hand corner of the pink slip. If the car's body and frame are still straight and you don't plan on sinking tons of money (unless you don't particularly care if you ever see that money again) into it, I'd say go for it. But, while he might be telling you the truth about it being in a flood, there could be another reason he is omitting that the car is salvaged. Also, generally, when an insurance company makes a total loss claim they're buying the car from you which gets "SALVAGED" for parts. So, he must have done something to keep the car and pay to have it fixed himself, which brings into question what exactly was wrong with it and how was it repaired, etc. NADA guides lists current "Low-Retail" value at $3,356 for a 1977 Datsun 280Z (coupe, not 2+2). Low-Retail value is defined as something mechanically functional, needing minor reconditioning, described as "daily driver" operating condition. http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1977&m=1254&d=2215&c=13&vi=79082&z=92116&da=-1 Wouldn't give the seller more than 1000 that's for sure, but if the interior is in good condition and you get under the car with a flashlight and inspection mirror, check for patches of rust, incontinuities and he can give you a run-down on why the car isn't running-- you might have a decent buy. Don't offer him 1000 up-front, though. Haggle, haggle, haggle. Tip: If you're going to pay cash have a friend/relative come with you. Give them half the cash you have on hand to keep in their own wallet. Offer him your initial offer. If he wants more but less than his original asking, get theatrical, tell him you need a moment with your friend to discuss him/her loaning you the remainder of the money. Times are hard, he wants to sell, try to take advantage of that.

$1500 for an L26 rebuild? If you're going to spend that much I'd look-up getting an LD28 crank, some L24 Rods and KA pistons. Your dad's mechanic hasn't started anything, yet, has he? I'd read through this: http://www.zcsd.org/tech-articles/power-quest1.php and this: http://www.zcsd.org/tech-articles/power-quest2.php . Hell, if you want, PM or email me I think I might have an extra L28 block/head and rotating assembly for you, cheaper than $1500. I'd be shipping it from San Diego, CA, though.

Mine's a semi-exhaustive listing of total cost of doing the car the way I want it (meaning interior, body) and doing the V8 conversion. Car: Early 71 240z - $5,000 (when I picked it up it the car already had extensive work done on it, including new paint, suspension, snap-turn joints, poly-bushings, 4-piston fronts, R200 (4.11), CV shafts) Complete engine conversion done by a professional shop: turnkey 383 SBC, R200 (3.54), new aluminum radiator, electric fans, TKO 5speed, mounts, custom stainless exhaust, everything installed - $6,000 Miscellaneous body work: done by shop-next-door - $1200 Sub-total: $12,200 DIY Stuff Roll Bar - $400 Rear Disc conversion kit - $700 New carpeting (to replace old vinyl and carpet, firewall insulator) - $380 (oh and MSA Z embroidered rear-deck carpet $100) Shift boot +clips, brake boot - $45 Corbeau Seats and brackets - $800 New interior panels - $230 Dome light - $30 Rear Speaker Panel, Head Unit, pair of 6.5" components, pair of 6x9s 3-way, 400w single channel, 10" sub, 500w 4 channel, 1.5 Farad capacitor, custom MDF kick-panels, beauty box for amps/cap, and custom sub box mounted in tire-well, new fully retractable antenna - $1,420 16x8 wheels with 225/50/16 front, 245/45/16 rear tires - $1,100 Front/Rear strut braces - $300 Bad Dog frame rails - $310 (plus the 12 pack and pizza to have a buddy weld them in with me) New glove box - $25 New momo pedals - $50 Optima Yellow Top - $180 New MSA new-style fuse box - $200 (best money spent, ever, it eliminated 95% of the electrical problems in the Z) Materials to make multi-point grounding harness - $60 Refurbed turn signal switch - $50 New H4 Xenon headlamps - $40 Headlight relay upgrade harness - $140 marker/turn signal/interior lighting upgrade harness - $50 BA9 style LEDs for dash/instruments - $30 New wing mirrors (california style) - $80 New Weatherstrip kit - $200 New shift knob - $20 Subtotal: $6,885 Grand total: $19,085 Being completely satisfied, filled with a sense of pride with your car and belonging to a group of car enthusiasts that is as diverse as the UN and turning heads by going to the grocery store: Priceless Seeing the faces of middle-aged men that spent their retirements on Porsches, Vipers, Corvettes and Jaguars who just realized that they got broken off by a 25 year old kid with a ****ed up blond afro in a 40-year-old Japanese car: Even more so.

Well, I'm not 100% sure on the Renault incident story but I can give you an abbreviated version: Renault designs a V-8 motor with the intention of running it as a contender in grand-prix racing. The engine did not have cams, rather it was a computer controlled valve train with valves that work in much the same way as a fuel-injector, a magnet is energized for a period (a single pulse) closing the valve, when it is de-energized the valve opens. This allowed for much longer durations without the worry of heavily weighted spring producing drag on a cam, in-turn creating more stress on rotating parts and mechanical drag. For some reason, "the secret" had been let loose (although, I'm pretty sure anyone with two brain-cells to rub together has thought of this before); the reason that I heard is that a competing factory team was butt-hurt and went to extreme lengths to find out the huge technical advantage the Renault team had and that the technology was universally banned. Sounds far fetched to me, that's why I didn't tell the whole story. However, since I heard that story probably 10 or 11 years ago, I've been fascinated with the idea. I've seen some research done on it, a lot of design concepts, and knowing what I do know about engineering and basic mechanics, it seems feasible to me. The overall design of the valve would be very similar to those currently used, just the means by which it is opened and closed changes. Then again, I do know that if you google "Solenoid Valve Engine" you'll get several hits from academic institutions with engineering students and faculty alike building them. So, the Renault story maybe kind of like an episode of MacGyver, who knows.

My experience with Zs started shortly after I graduated high school. I was not a spectacular high-school student (aced all the tests, broke the curve every single time and NEVER studied, got some really nice SAT and ACT scores), but never did any homework or assignments-- long story short, I was 16, out of high school, started community college (because my grades weren't fantastic, and my parents had no money) around my second semester I found my first Z, a 240. Shelled out some money I'd saved from working full-time, ended up being a great car, I even swapped in a VG30ET and accompanying drive-train I found in a 87 300zx turbo, for $1400. I ended up joining the Navy before I finished college. I sold the car for A LOT more than what I bought it for (even made back the money I spent on modding it). I bought this car for around $3800 in beautiful shape in like 2004. I bought the 240Z I have now for $6000, in really good shape, with a L28, 5-speed, R200 already in it. Been using it as my DD ever since, I am no longer in the Navy, unemployed currently, still doing a V8 swap. I'm not rich, just resourceful. I say, if you are willing to pony the cash for something in running condition with a decent body, the Z will remain reliable for a long time. In my experience it's been a lot cheaper to maintain (except for gas), insure ($350/year for full coverage in CA), and modify than the other cars I've owned. I sank $7500 into an Integra GS-R, I had, it was pretty beastly, but nowhere as much fun as the Z (it was also like WAYYY more sought after by thieves, it was stolen, ON BASE). Also nowhere as good-looking. I don't hear much about people stealing the earlier model Zs, not even the heavily modified ones. I park mine in the ally behind my apartment, people stop and look at it, compliment me on it when I'm out there having a cigarette (some gang-banger thought he'd look cool by leaning on my fender and scratched my paint) but I'm NOT as worried about theft as I was with the other cars I've owned. I guess what I'm saying is, if you're at all mechanically inclined, owning a Z (at least for me) has been cheaper in the long run than other cars I've bought used. The SU carbs are fairly easy to keep running (I've got Webers, now, stay away from those unless you've got time to dial them in and re-jet them every-time the weather changes), the L6 is rock-solid in any of its incarnations, I abuse mine and they take it like Southeast Asian hookers (**I do not support the sex trade or human trafficking, nor am I a racist**). I don't know why people in this thread have been saying "OMG DATSUN PARTS ARE EXPENSIVE," I've never had that problem. I have with the newer Nissans, though. The complete parts kit for a 240Z 60K mile service is like $190 if you shop around (timing parts, water pump, belts, spark plugs, distributor pieces), the 240SX (KA24E and DE) is like $300.

http://www.falconerengines.com/bio/bio_irl.php $45,000?!?! For that price-tag, you could engineer something from scratch. I know they're outlawed for racing; but if one wants the efficiency of OHC, without any of the drawbacks or want something better than cam-driven valve-trains period-- one could build an electrical solenoid-actuated, computer-controlled valve train. No more mechanical drag, what-so-ever (well, one must have an alternator). 45 large for a street motor? I could probably build a damn fusion battery powered electric motor that would produce more torque than a internal combustion engine could ever hope to achieve, for that price. To me it makes sense to go to solenoid valves, anyway. But, I think since the Renault incident (?) they're not legal in any racing series that I know. For street applications, the benefits would be amazing and one would think that with that kind of available precision in valve timing not only would one be making more power, but it would increase mileage and reduce emissions. Unless I missed something somewhere. DOHC is a pretty cool idea, I liked the Integra GS-R I used to have, amazing what that little 1.8L would do. I just think that when you get into the bigger displacement engines it starts to become a point of diminishing returns due to weight, center of gravity and the fact that your RPM limits come from terminal piston speed and the rest of the bottom end, not the valve train.

I agree with the general consensus of the thread so far: 200RWHP is about the limit for a stock S30 body. If you're going V8 though I strongly recommend doing something with your rear-differential and shafts. A Nissan L6 producing 200HP is going to behave differently than a V8 producing 200HP. Power-curve being the biggest difference, the L6 isn't going to make that kind of power (with the necessary cam and ignition timing set-up to make said power) until about 4000 RPM. Which means the car is already going to be rolling (i.e. you've gone past break-torque) that's the strength of the L6-- the engine LIVES at the mid-range. The V8 is producing OMG RIDICULOUS torque as soon as you start depressing the accelerator. Typical PEAK power for a stock SBC or LS is going to be in the 3600 RPM range (IIRC). Just a bit of my experience (about 5 years or so with the S30Z, cut me some slack I'm only 25), I really like the L6 it's a great motor, has a lot of potential if you know what you're doing. I am currently undergoing an SBC 383 swap in my Z, my motor has the full pro-comp stage 2 performance dress (aluminum heads, intake, accessories, double-reduction starter, lightweight fly, billet pistons, forged rods and crank, electronic multi-spark ignition, etc.) we're talking in the neighborhood of 405 ft./lbs. of torque at the flywheel. However, I have a 4-point roll-bar, I'm welding in Bad Dog frame-rails, along with a few extra steel gussets here and there, and I've got front and rear triangulated braces and I'm still trepidatious about frame-twist with that level of power (and I don't even plan on dragging it). I am also largely paranoid about snapping shafts, the R200 as far as differential go is pretty damn resilient, most of the Nissan rear-ends are (my friend has a YJ rock-crawler and he swapped in Nissan diffs for their strength). However, your shafts are always going to be the weak-point in the system. Consider that as your starting point for, "How much power should I go for?" Good news is that with some minor fabrication the R200 and R230 rear-ends will accept a wide variety of shafts. They can also be purchased in parts yards or on craigslist for about $50~$75 USD. I am avoiding the shaft problem by staying with a less-sticky tire set-up, so rather than snap-a-shaft, the tires will just break loose and spin (not the optimal work-around, but I know this engine will take some getting used to, until then I'd like to save my shafts). Oh, and instead of using a 3.90, I decided to save some gas (and residential zone speeding tickets) by dropping to the 3.54 R200. More acceleration leeway on the freeway () and less stress on the shafts. The only reason I am moving away from the L6 is that mine was pretty much optimized as much as one can with said engine. I got tired of re-tuning the Webers every two weeks (because it's my daily driver). I had an L28 bored and stroked to 3.2, running 280 degree cam .460 lift, with Triple 45DCOE Webers (I HATE tuning them, but they scream). In the end I spent more on modding the L6 than I have building and installing a V8. It took me quite a while to get to the point where I said to myself, "this just isn't enough power" and the SBC was the last engine I considered for the swap. I looked at much smaller engines RBs, VGs, VQs, SR20, but they all required a lot more $$$ than I wanted to spend on something that was going to have the same weakness as the L6: bottom end, light-up-the-tires-and-****-yourself giddyup. I am looking at a total cost of $6000 (only maybe a third of that is actual costs of building the V8, everything else is a bunch of auxiliary stuff like body work and mods that I have been putting off for too long). And, before anyone asks: my L6 is going to my friend who is putting it in his triumph along with my 4.11 R200 I have now. (He finally saw the light of superiority of Japanese engineering to the British) I apologize for the huge post, hope that it might help you with decisions on your swap, though.

I built one, it was kind of tricky making all of the plumbing fit around the V-block, especially with the turbo. I had a custom made stainless steel manifold for the turbo, by Stillen here in SoCal. Set me back about $700 for the manifold but got rid of all the god-awful heat-soak issues that engine had. The mounts are pretty easy to modify, if you have a donor 300ZX I would pull the stock mounts out of that and just make plates to mount them to the K-bar. You're also going to want to reinforce the K-bar and rails, it also wouldn't hurt to fabricate an X-brace-style cross-member from the K-bar to the transmission tunnel area. The VG30 moves the wieght of the engine behind the K-bar instead of directly over it (like with the Lxx and RBxx motors). Also the drivetrain components you're most likely going to want out of the same car, the R200 and BW tranny drops in there pretty painlessly. Although, the car I did this with was a '71 240. I'm not intimately familiar with the differences between a series 1 240 and the 260, as far as body/frame dimensions. Also, with the kind of ridiculous power you can make with a VG30, even the SOHC, single turbo models you will need reinforcement, a decent amount in the rear and a lot in the front. Baddog rails would be a good place to start for that. A friend here in SD recommended them. What are your goals for this project? I went all out with mine, water-injection(no intercooler), everything.

This is a little late in the thread, I suppose to respond, but here goes: "Bosozoku" is a word in japanese meaning "violent running gangs," typically referring to motorcycle gangs which has kind of evolved into the heavy-metal/punk "street" scene and has sort of tried legitimizing itself as a social movement. Stretching the sidewalls from my understanding can give a performance advantage to some degree, but not when done to extremes. It's like preloading the sidewalls with tension so they're already at optimal rigidity. I run that setup (although, it's ever so slight stretching, nothing like in the picture) on my Integra GS-R, and I noticed an increase in sidewall stiffness, the disadvantage is there's less give in the tires which makes for a bit of a noisy and uncomfortable road-ride. It handles like it's on rails, though, probably the most impressive FWD I've ever driven. I haven't noticed any behavior from the tires that would make me think it's unsafe, in fact, it seems to have evened out the tire wear-- compared to when I was running 215s on the same wheels (I run 205-45-17s, now). Also, if you're not experienced mounting tires that way, when you use the machine it has a tendency to scratch nice, pretty wheels.

Janaka: Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I settled on the 225/50/16s (Yokohama S. Drives) on all fours. If I don't notice a significant improvement on rear "torque" handling under acceleration from these over what I had (cheap kumho 215/60/14) I will probably opt for some wider rear ones. The only "rolling" I had to do was upfront, when I put the wheels and tires on it only had like 1/16th" clearance on the lower valence, so I just did a quick tuck with a mallet and dolly and that give it about 3/8" clearance, even at its apex, so I should be good because suspension travel on average road conditions is minimal and the swaybars I have do a good job of keeping body roll to a minimum during hard cornering. I can't wait until my Z is picture worthy. I am in the process of redoing the interior, putting the wheels on was kind of precursor to that. Of course, I won't be able to fully test the fitment of the new wheels until I get atleast the driver's seat back in.

So, for those of you who might know: I ordered a set of the XXR (Sportmax) 002s, the 16x8 with 0 offset. I was looking at putting 245/45R16 on all four corners on my '71 240. I have the stock fenders, but I have the blue tokicos with coilovers, is this going to present a rub issue or can I get away with it? Should I go with the 225/50R16s instead? I think the height clearance is okay (they're only like .4" inches taller than the 215/60R14s I have now) and those don't seem to ever come in contact with the fender because of the stiffer suspension I'm running.