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Zcardude

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  1. Just checking back in to say this thing is running really good, the best it ever has since I've owned it I think, so I don't think my trigger angle is causing any issues at all. I haven't hot rodded on it yet but it drives very very good and I'm expecting it to pull good as well. I'm very confident that my mechanical timing is correct as I spent a lot of time questioning that before looking at the terrible wiring job (see my post history :D)
  2. Thanks! That all makes sense and lined up with my thinking. Since I have the timing light matching what the spark advance in tunerstudio is stating I'm going to call things "fine" for now My biggest concern I think was that if I got too weird of a trigger angle, since I'm still using the distributor with a single coil, I could potentially end up in a situation where the rotor is not in the correct position to fire the proper plug or fire the wrong one or something along those lines.
  3. Hi everyone, I'm running an MS2 3.57 running MS2 Extra 3.4.3 on a 1983 L28ET in a 1973 240Z. I just finished completely rewiring the engine with a new harness as the previous install was hack job by the previous owner. I recently did some work on my car, upgrading it to use a diyautotune optical trigger disc as well as eliminating an unnecessary CDI box. I have it running pretty well (just moving it around the driveway so far, haven't driven it fully yet) but had to use a strange "Tooth #1 Angle(deg BTDC)" trigger angle setting. It seems very healthy compared to the previous wiring
  4. I’m also interested in doing this. What are the part numbers or links to what you’re using there? I see the pressure switch there - is that also an aftermarket clutch slave?
  5. That's interesting that you mention that. I have the same unit triggered by an MS2 and have some weird power delivery issues, where the torque drops off rapidly, then come right back, producing a really oddball (and sorta disappointing? It makes 258whp but should be able to do more) power curve. Did you have the opportunity to dyno yours with the problematic MSD StreetFire? I'm curious what it looked like on your setup. Posted mine below for reference Some other members here have speculated that it is caused by noise coming in through the optical pickup on my L28ET distributor, but
  6. I don’t think there’s a known “safe advance map” for our engines, but what I said about timing slightly increasing after peak torque is a really common pattern. If you take your car to a dyno and have someone tune the timing, that’s how your spark map will end up. Guaranteed. In the meantime ensuring that your base timing is set right and then reviewing a lot of other tunes and staying conservative is probably alright. But you shouldn’t lose several degrees of timing as you run up through the RPMs. Also yeah it sounds like you’ve got a problem with your alternator or some kind of wi
  7. Hi, I took a look at your log and tune and have a few suggestions - Your TPS doesn't appear to be calibrated right. It looks like you are going WOT and only achieving about 85% TPS - Your spark plugs are the wrong heat range. They are too hot, 6 is an N/A heat range. You should be running a 7 heat range plug like a BKR7E or BPR7E. 0.028 gap should be fine - Based on logs you make boost really late for such a small turbo. Is this just you only jumping on the throttle later in the powerband or is this where you have to be to make pressure? Do you have boost le
  8. It's hard to guess what kind of power an engine might make because there are a lot of variables in play, but you should be able to get a relatively close estimation by using your phone with a "dyno" app like pocketdyno, dynolicious, probably some others, if you can put in accurate weights, c/d, frontal area, gearing, tire size, etc. I'd recommend several pulls and average them together. Otherwise a couple of dyno pulls are usually only in the $50-100. That said if you are taking guesses before you start to get actual numbers, my shooting from the hip guess is 155whp, having looked
  9. Was it running fine before upgrading the injector size? If so, after installing the new injectors, did you update the injector size in your general options in tunerstudio? You will likely need to do a bit of tweaking on the VE table as well in my experience
  10. I use a Schneider cam in my 240Z and I heard that they suffer from soft core issues. Because of this, I had my cam nitrided before installing it, and I also use high zinc motor oils, mainly rotella-T. I've got about 5k on my build and currently no signs of cam wear
  11. FWIW I have run 550CC RC engineering injectors on a stock ZXT rail without issue, controlling them with a MegaSquirt II unit. Definitely echo what cgsheen is saying about needing an aftermarket ECU. With stock ECU, you need to stay very close to stock-specced injectors and fuel pressure or you are going to have a difficult time
  12. Thanks for the help! I took your advice and dropped a recent log file and MSQ in to MLV, which I also attached to this post, and was able to generate the following scatter: I have MPH calculated for 3rd gear only and no actual VSS input which is why I only get a single line here. Otherwise this is looking to me to have a large scatter, like in the graph you posted. I am guessing this should look more like a solid line? So this would point to slop? I am guessing this is somewhat mechanically tied to the rotation of the distributor, so maybe switching to the
  13. Thanks for the critique Tony! I really appreciate the detailed response and the suggestions Currently, the hoses to the turbo are 15mm hoses so I will look in to blocking off the internal bypass on the block. Are there any symptoms that I should expect to be seeing at the moment since I have the internal bypass open still, or is this merely a precaution? I'd not heard previously that re-circulating the rear coolant port into the lower part of the thermostat housing could help with rear cylinder heating issues. I was actually already looking in to having the costly head
  14. Thanks for the info! I didn't know that the dizzy's pickup could be robbing much power if any. I am using a bone stock 280ZXT dizzy with Magnecor wires and MSD StreetFire ignition. I am definitely struggling still with power dips, as was seen on my dyno graph. Originally we thought that the tune was just a bit rich in those spots but that does not appear to be the case any more although I am getting the same dips in power on a re-dyno (no new graph to share, sorry, didn't make much more power although power is up a bit from smoothing out the AFRs and leaning things out a tiny bit). I was begin
  15. Yeah certainly the downpipe was too small and using the off the shelf MSA unit was a mistake. Definitely building a new 3.5" one is on the list and I am fairly certain it will yield a large power increase. According to logging on this dyno run, timing ranged from 18-20 degrees of timing under boost (it has a bit more advance higher up in the RPM's.) Bigger downpipe could definitely allow for a bit more here as adding another degree produced no more power at this boost level. I think I was likely also being held back to some extent by high MAT temps, which were reaching mid 130F ra
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