blueshark123
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Posts posted by blueshark123
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Option 3 is the way I went. Feed to back of pass side rail loop over the front to driver and then to FPR.
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That is correct. The motor mount bolt holes/pattern is the same for the 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, and 6.2 motors. What motor are you using and what car?
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Thanks RebekahsZ. Where did you end up getting your bleeder from? I was looking at purchasing the ones offered by speedway motors but doesnt appear to be a speed bleeder.
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Sounds too good to be true but you never know.
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I'm looking for the line to the CMC. I am probably also getting the bleeder from speedway. Ok so sounds like I should be ok with a 36 inch line.
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So I'm ordering the last bits needed to get the motor in and was going some research on the clutch line. I have seen people use anywhere from a 32 to a 48 inch clutch line. What's the shortest length I can order and still be safe? I tried looking up part numbers that were provided in some threads for the 48 incher but it appears that it no longer exists. I'm about to order this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-655100 but I am not 100% sure that it will be long enough. Thanks in advance!
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Really amazed 28lb injectors can handle a 200+ shot. I see everyone running a 200 dry shot use 42lb injectors even with a 5.3L.
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Why an ls2 intake? I've read that even though the ls2 is 90mm, the ls6 is still superior in an NA application and you won't see much of a difference in a boosted application.
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David, I can also vouch for Rags. He can probably do the swap in his sleep. If you are looking for a reasonably priced ls1/t56 I may have one for sale next week.
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Is there a specific reason you went 1.8? Do you know if the cam is ground for 1.8?
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That makes more sense . LOL . $2700 for Q45 diff swap ? Damn !
A Q45 swap can be done for under 1700.
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Apologies if I have missed it but what rear end setup are you running?
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Yes I know that and I wouldn't post unless I myself knew the history of your car too. Just because a shop charges $x to do something doesn't make it the standard to get the work done. Again I am not knocking David because I know he was very busy when he started that swap back in 05/06 but when someone is asking what something cost to do please state the fact that a shop did some of the work you are quoting.
For fun I asked a local shop here how much would it be to just mount the LS1/t56 in my car and I finish the rest - they said $4600 @ $110/hr = 41 hours! Anyone who has done the basic swap can tell you that is crazy!
41 hours!!
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Why? Are you building a motor that has squeezed out every last bit of horsepower that 3 4-in. diameter elbows will make a difference? Are you building a race-purpose car where you've shaved weight every where you could so you are now focusing on the minutia? Really, get a grip.
Oh man....yup I'm building an 800hp NA LS motor.
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Scott Attig
Wizard Cooling
(W) 716-655-6760
(F) 716-655-6761
Great guy to work with. 1TuffZ put me onto them.
Ah ok yup I'm aware of them. Thanks!
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Thanks for the picture. I guess the only way it will work is by making the radiator shorter. Where did you get your radiator? I'm looking for a good radiator with the filler neck on the side.
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Kind of, yes, but the car is not complete so I cannot comment on performance. This required fabrication and a custom radiator.
Hi Craig. Actually your pictures you emailed me is what caused me to think of trying this. I'm thinking I might be able to do the same without having to modify the rad support and instead going under it by getting a shorter radiator and/or tilting the radiator back. Thoughts? I'm not there yet in my build but I'm hoping to be there soon.
Jeff
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Has anyone tried tilting the radiator back/down and snaking an intake straight over the radiator with something like the corvette K&N intake? I'm no where near that in my build but I do plan to try this. I'm not too crazy about having three 90 degree bends in my intake.
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You do not need to drill out the stud nor do you need to bend the throttle pedal for the mechanical cable. Look for the Spectre SS throttle cable from Autozone. It has the perfect connection for the S30 stud at the end of the throttle pedal. You need to cut out a small section of the fitting so that it snaps over the stem of the ball.
Do you get part number 2431 or 2435?
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anyone else?
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I have a set of the front struts came off a 73 240z asking $150 plus shipping in Los Angeles my email is Zguy240@gmail.com.
Thanks for the offer but that's a little more than I want to spend considering shipping from LA to NJ while be a considerable amount.
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As title states, looking for a set of 240z strut housings. Let me know what you have.
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I cut as much as 1.75" out for the typical Koni 8610 install. You might have an issue if your tires are taller then 24". You can relocate the inner mounting point for the front LCAs and that will help if your tall. Only cut about 1.5" out of the rear strut tubes.
What would I have a problem with specifically? I do plan to run a 25 inch tire and 17 inch wheel.
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Ok thanks guys! I don't need to worry about the rears as I bought the whole T3 rear end assembly so they come assembled already. I have camber plates in the front but not in the rear. I wonder if I'll have a problem with lining the front and rear up but I doubt it.
Fuel Rails on an LS3 and best way to run
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
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The feed goes to the pass side rail and the return is at the bottom of the FPR.