blueshark123
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Posts posted by blueshark123
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Ehh they are 275/40s, don't think more air will help, and in truth they probably have 30 psi in them. I never checked them after the tire shop put air in them. I got the axle fixed though, drives good again but I will be babying it 'til I get back home. Drove it all the way to Devils Den state park today on some back roads. Bout a 30 minute drive with some good curves, wish my brakes didn't suck and I had seats that were bolted in and seat belts so I could have pushed it a little harder. My buddy did take a video on his phone so I will be uploading that shortly.
-Will
that's hilarious. Get that sorted out! -
Interesting. I hope I don't have to do the same for headers that cost me 900+. Has the gasket issue been resolved?
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No longer looking. Ended up ordering off MSA. Thanks guys
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Nice work. Where did you get the hood?
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bumpage
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Completely forgot I made this thread and Joe already sold his. If anyone else has a front and/or rear please pm me, email me at jeffreyavila23@hotmail.com. Thanks!
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Thanks for the clarification Blake. You can ignore my email and voicemail lol. Nice S14. The R33 front looks good.
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Looks like they just missed that one, don't see a reason to weld up the other 7 and not do 1.
Yea but this one was the only one where the entire outside of the runner was welded shut instead of the inside. IDK I'll call Blake and see what's up. Text me when you get yours and lmk if yours is the same.
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So I was working from home and these puppies showed up. Glad I was home and didn't miss the shipment. Have a question for you guys. All but one runner on the inside is welded all around. This one runner is only welded shut from the outside. Does everyone have the same thing? I'm tempted to have it welded. Thoughts?
Unwelded from inside of the runner
All other runners are welded like this:
Some more pics for fun:
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As title states, looking to purchase a strut bar for my 240z. Let me know what you have. Thanks.
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The dips are probably from traction loss on the dynojet and not a result of poor tuning I would say.
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The welds on the merge collectors look really sloppy but it's probably the picture. Can't wait to see mine arrive!
Thanks David for the pics! They look great and thanks again for getting this done. Mine will probably sit until I can do the heads and new exhaust setup.
When are you installing yours so we can get some dyno number gains?!?!?!
Or until I steal back my shorties
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I know for a fact that dyno dynamics in shoot out mode and dynapacks read about the same. Everyone on all the forums also say that the two read ~10% higher than a mustang dyno. With that said, I wouldn't be surprised to see this car make 470whp on a dynapack with no changes. I would have still expected more out of that motor but as I mentioned before I really think the exhaust is restricting the motor badly. I would really love to see what the car puts down on a dynapack and then with a different exhaust system haha.
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what intake manifold? I'm still baffled that this thing didn't make at LEAST 450 rwhp. There are guys with heads/cam ls3's doing 500+ through an auto
. Something doesn't add up. Thats allHaha yea I agree. I mean it might just be the dyno and the type of correction factors that the tuner used. Usually I see tuners inflate hp numbers though lol.
And yea I meant intake manifold not actual intake piping.
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The hp does sound pretty low for a cammed ls3 with trick flow heads. What intake/header/exhaust combo do you have. They are probably the culprits. At first I thought I read 128 mph so I thought maybe you didnt spray but then re-read and saw the 138. Nice trap man. Get some slicks and the car will definitely get into the low 10s. What does it weigh?
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What size/offset are those wheels? I tried searching but couldn't find the size.
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I used the PSI harness and computer for my swap, very simple and absolutely no problems.
Got any pics of your harness? The pics on their site aren't the greatest.
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Well I don't think you "broke" yours on the dyno on first start-up
How long were the engine dyno runs?
The tuner took about 30-45 mins to break it in. Ran it through different rpms and different loads
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Engine break-in period is a myth. Break that bad boy in on a dyno and you're good to go. I broke my built k20 in on the dyno on first start-up. Did a leakdown a few weeks later and the numbers were perfect.
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Does that mean we have our 19!
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Post 144 & 160 state 3-4 weeks once production begins. With that said, production will begin once we have all paid-which is the part I have no control over. I made my payment earlier this summer to fund the initial material purchase for the first set of ss prototypes...
Yup see it now thanks.
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When would be an estimated eta once payment is made? Do we know this information?
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Email sent to Blake
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I've always felt that the Daytona Coupe was copied from the Z-car anyway-haha. So, you swapped a metal Z for a plastic Z. Not to mention that the Daytona is a WAY better investment. Planned power plant?
Well, I've actually got a 5.3 long block that I had bought as a spare for my Datsun. So now, its going to make its way into the Coupe. N/A for starters. We'll see what happens after I get bored without boost.
that's hilarious. Get that sorted out!
Sectioning question with BZ3125 strut
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Ok so I finally got around to sectioning my struts over the weekend. I have BZ3125 struts which are a little shorter than the commonly used BZ3099 strut. T3 initially advised that I only remove 30mm max from the strut housing. As I was in process of shortening, I took measurements and realized that 30mm is way too small. I ended up having to remove 1.75 inches(~44mm). I called T3 today about another question I had and in the conversation he reaffirmed that I shouldn't remove more than 30mm as the car will sit way too low and that instead I should have used a spacer. Am I ok with leaving them as is or should I look for new strut housings? This is for a 240z with 10inch springs.