blueshark123
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Posts posted by blueshark123
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Dam man digging the new tank and wheel color. Did you get the wheels powdercoated? I'm looking for a place to do some powdercoating for me cause the guy I normally use is way to far and pricey. Let me know.
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If you really need dyno numbers to convince you to buy longtube equal length headers then you shouldn't be buying them. The research has been done. Go over on ls1tech and do some poking around. Someone's dyno numbers are just that. You can't compare your setup to another. For example grab stock ls1 with shorties and then throw on the longtubes and make 5-10 whp over the shorties or you can have a built motor with great flowing heads and intake and a large cam and make 40-50 whp over the shorties. Number variances can even occur between cam profiles. Do your research and determine if the I/H/C setup you are using will benefit from them. Chances are they will but if it's worth the extra 1k is totally up to your budget and setup.
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Not spent but expected (projected) to spend. Clive is correct, I am being very meticulous about tracking and estimating this project. $24k so far and the car is still just a shell (actually I have a lot of the goodies to bolt on.) So how does it become nearly $40k. Purchasing a good Arizona car then starting with a complete ground up including soda blasting to bare metal, many coats of paint, lots of sound deadening and heat insulation, lots of carbon fiber bits, all AZC underpinnings, Brembo brakes from an EVO, Z31 R200, all new bolts & seals, long tube headers, LS1 modifications, Vintage Air system, roll cage, Corbeau bits, etc, etc, etc.... Suffice it to say I was shocked when I plugged everything into the spreadsheet. I would be more than happy to pass along the spreadsheet if it helps you.
If I wasn't constantly working on this car I would actually start a build thread. Sorry for having not done that yet.
Yea I'll shot you a pm with my email. I'm just curious because I got AZC brakes and TTT Q45 rear swap and planning for 3k dollar wheels and I'm no where near that
I guess if you do a full rotisserie build it can come up to that much. I was tempted to do that but Clive and others talked me out if it. Car is going to get driven so not worth it to me and the rust on my car isn't bad. Create a build thread!! I'm sure we'll be meeting once our cars are done! Sorry...hijack over -
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I will be very interested to watch your progress. It looks like you will have some of the same dilemmas I am facing. The first confirmed one is mating the Z31 CV shafts to the stub axles. I hope you are successful in cornering Ross as I too NEED that solution.
You may want to up your total project budget by a few bills. My LS1/T56 ground up resto-mod project is projected to come in just shy of $40k with the drivetrain being free (purchased complete F-body and sold parts to cover its cost) and 95% of the work being done by yours truly (and 1 tuff z).
Keep the updates coming!
Sorry to hijack the thread but how in the world did you spend 40k?! If you dont want to post it send me a pm. I'm really curious as I'm building an LS1/T56 240z with all the works and I'm not calculating the final cost even near that number unless you're replacing EVERYTHING with new or NOS parts and doing a COMPLETE rotisserie build even then idk because you said you are doing the work yourself. Just curious
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bump still looking. Willing to pay good money for a non-cracked/non-drilled center console.
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Interested in center console, door panels, and possibly dash pending on price.
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Techno Toy tuning also has a nice solution to remove the stub axles all together
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bump still looking!
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east coast superchargers tuned the ls6. mike at rapid tuned the old ls1
Cool. They tuned my brother's ls1 240sx. I might be going with their custom cam/valvetrain package and tuning obviously.
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Stop being freaking lazy and mod your own dam harness!....lol
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Nice man. Good luck with the 9s! Who tuned your car if you don't mind me asking?
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Possible thread jack here, so scold me and I'll start a new thread, but where do the "tuner" programs plug into the wiring/computer system for laptop modifications to engine tune? Same question for diagnostics port? I do not have any of the interior wiring harness; only the engine/trans harness from a pull-out.
The OBD2 port is the where the tuner gets plugged into. You have to get a GM plug (can get off a gm truck from junkyard) and wire it to your harness. It's only four wires to get it hooked up
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Add me to the list. I might go for the vb option
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Glad you didn't buy. My brother picked up his WS6 with 70k miles on it for 3200. You of all people can do better lol. I'll let you if I find anything.
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I'd be interested as well pending price and how well fitment is.
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I have a pretty good one, not NOS by any stretch, but you might be willing to compromise. I' m not exactly close, (western canada) but I'll package it well. slow postal shipping is pretty cheap.
Contact me at z240@shaw.ca when you get a chance and I'll send you pictures and see if it's good enough.
Won't be back until Wednesday, you've waited this long I suppose....
Jim
Yea I'm in no rush. I'll email you right now. Thanks!
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My friend Rich still has one his username is rich280zxt pm him.
Then why does he have a WTB 72-73 center console thread??
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Bump still looking
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bumpage
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emailed....still looking
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That's a 70-71. I'm looking for a 72-73
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Yea not getting a pullout for 2k. Good, low mileage T56 trans go for 1500.
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Okay so I've been reading through most of the threads that pertain to swapping the lm7 and lq4 truck engines, and I've read more than once where someone was averse to the idea of putting a "truck" engine in a sports car. I don't quite understand what would make these engines especially the lq4 any less desirable than the ls1 other than the extra weight from the iron. Is it just that the cam is spec'd for the low end? A simple cam swap would fix this. If this were the case the ls2 would be out as well as any of the older bbc race engines. I mean an l88 would then be considered a "truck" engine, and the l88 is a MEAN engine. Maybe someone could shed some light as to why individuals would not look favorably on the lq4 and lm7 engines. With the price difference they seem to me to be the only way to go unless you have endless dough to blow.
The aluminum blocked motors are lighter and mod for mod produce more power. Not a significant amount of more power though to warrant picking it over a truck engine. It all comes down to budget. I would have went with a truck engine if I were going boosted and didnt have the cash for an LS1
I guess if you do a full rotisserie build it can come up to that much. I was tempted to do that but Clive and others talked me out if it. Car is going to get driven so not worth it to me and the rust on my car isn't bad. Create a build thread!! I'm sure we'll be meeting once our cars are done! Sorry...hijack over
LSx s30 Longtube group buy thread
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
I'm still in if pricing has not changed!