langfordchuck

Hey folks, I am looking for some feedback or ideas from 260 2/2 owners on door weatherstrip. After much discussions with MSA I bought some door weatherstrip that turned out not to fit, despite being billed as 2/2 parts. Turns out they don't have any actual door w/s for the 74 2+2. Then, because I like to pay shipping charges for no reason, did the same process with the ZCarSource. Then got some parts from charley osborne to round the whole buying experience out (at least his rubber fit, but it was only for the leading edgge of the 1/4 window). B/D was at least clear that they don't have this. The result of this saga is that I have been unable to locate a replacement door weatherstrip that actually works without major modifications. So, the question is, how have other 1974 260 2+2 owners handled replacing door weatherstrip? Precision does not seem to have a OEM replacement or an alternative that actually works. Is there a source I don't know about? Alternatively, I figure i can make it work with all the pieces i have acccumulated, but I am not sure how best to glue them together or fit them. Do any of you 74 2+2 ownes have some wisdom to share with me? The major difficulty at this point is the 1/4 window: it has a different leading edge and won't take a normal pinch weld seam, if that makes sense. I can provide pics if helpful of the 1/4 window edge, but i am also interested in how best to join my multiple pieces to avoid leaks. I did search but most w/s thread concern tight fitment, and not my specific problem. thanks all.

Well, looks like a lot of pieces. I just got a set for my 2+2and it has fewere pieces than that. Where did you get it?

I also am experiencing a little difficulty ensuring good paint adhesion, esp. in areas such as the floorpan or inner fender wells, where the paint is more susceptible to mechanical impacts. To fix this I have been using a good quality etching prime. But recently a co-worker who re-finishes bathtubs told me that they use something closer to a glass etch, which apparently does a better job than metal etch for ensuring adhesion. They use an etching material for porcelin which requires special permits and training, but he said glass etch is the next best thing. Does anyone have experience in different etching materials, including glass etch? Disappointing to do a bunch of prep work and then lose paint over poor adhesion, especially in areas you might not see it come off until too late. but i am not sure of the cost or relative performance of different materials.

My solution was to buy the one for the regular 260z, cut it roughly in the centre and weld in an extension. This saves fabricating the curved edges, and it is a simple weld. The metal was heavier than stock as well: good solid piece (can't recall the vendor but i could look).

smoking car dude !!. Love the sidemarkers. Nice stance.

They won't fit: the 2+2 doors are different size (longer)...

Nice work! good to see another person taking on a 1974 260 2+2. Definiteley inspired me! Look forward to seeing the rest of the build.

Well, work has started on my latest madness: a 1974 260 2+2. I traded the car for a roofing job, so the price was right. But as usual more rust than one would like. Had to break down and buy a welder, and learn to weld. The car is a two owner car: i got it from the son in law of the original owner. It had sat in his backyard for at least 5 years so needs some work. It is still over there: i do my work there mainly because I have not yet put the wheels back on my 1960 Mercedes 190D, so no room yet in the garage. Here are some random pics, including ones of the weatherstrip I took in a dispute with Motorsport auto. More to come, will post when I can and organize the series (someday).

I just tried to fit the motorsport auto weather strip I bought. I usually like the products from motorsport, and I am also just happy that someone is making parts for our old z's. But the w/s did not even remotely fit, and was incomplete. (they are now apparantly a two part seal, not the one continous as was original). I am trying to straighten it out and get parts that will work, hopefully sooner rather than later as it is holding up the interior install. When I called I was assured they were the listed parts for my 74 260 2+2, but it would require major mods and some other pieces to make them work.

Hi Jim73240: Interested in the weather strip solution: having a heck of a time getting it for my 74 260 2/2. The (expensive) parts from motorsport listed for the car are the wrong parts: lots of money and still have to do major mods to make them work. So will likely send them back.... Can you give some more details? Is the circle on side side stuff the same profile as the original w/s, with the v shaped piece that clamps on the pinch weld (see my crude diagram below)? How did you manage the transition around the corner from the window down the b pillar? just a 45 cut and w/s sealant? thanks

I am in the midst of trying to source some trim for the panel as well: if i find something decent I will let y'all know. I thought it would be easy, but surprisingly there is not that much out there that would look ok.

Thanks! will look at taking out the dash since the rest of the interior is gutted.

Nice looking zed! I am about to install the full dash cap as well: you don't often see pics of it so glad to see it looks good and you are happy with it. Any particular issues or procedures for installing i should know about before i start?

Hi there! I am new to this board, but like it lot already. lots of good info. I am just in the process of installing two tabco lower front fender repair panels. good heavy guage, and look like a good fit, although one came with a stepped portion on the upper lip for ease of welding, and one didn't. A bit odd. us 2+2 owners would surer like to see a dog leg for the rear quarters: right now i have the standard one for a 260 which i have to cut up and stretch to fit. also second the call for the battery tray area: while the firewall portion is easy (straight piece) the tubbed inner fender section is a bear to fabricate to look stock.