zolorin

Ok let me clarify on the head business E31 -- 42cc combstion chaimbers with small valves, carbs E88 -- a bit larger combustion chaimbers 45cc, carbs N42 -- bigger vavles 45cc chaimbers, hole for the fuel pump is closed through casting N47(early) -- on 280Z open chaimbes 45cc, round exhaust ports P79 -- 54cc chaimbers, heart design, round exhaust ports P90 -- 54cc cahimbers, heart design, square exhaust ports N47(late) -- Maxima; came with small valves and large valves (depending on the year) heart shape, round exhaust ports, 40cc I would find a maxima head since its design can hold higher compression; preferebly from the 84 maxima (I have that head brand stinking new)

The turbo is the displacement enhancer without actually having the needed displacement so L30 with 15 lbs of boost is approximatelly equal to the V8 with 6.0 litres of displacement (should I say chevy 350) and if you are running a 30 lbs of boost then you have 9 litres of displacement. So just use those guidelines for the no replacement for displacement theory Turbo is the displacement modifier

Hey I am interested in Euro-Balancer and possibly the fuel rail, send pics and prices when you will decide to sell it.

My assumption was purely based on airflow and fuel flow, the rest can be done by the computer trickery. Now back to the efficiency question (from Ray Hall turbo website) http://www.turbofast.com.au/turbomap.html for the T3-60 compressor efficiency for both 9 and 10 lbs is around 70% now for the T3-50 if would be around 60% and for those points. Other trim will not flow that much. So I assumed best case scenario for the turbos (biggest trim, which can be wrong), but the overall math process does not change. The efficiency remained the same so my argument works for the error of 10-15% (which in heat transfer is considered very good). So the best way is to go to the dyno, also bastard you have heard of stripping the injectors from Mustangs and others at the JY (very cheap )

I know this was long, and I had to check with my books on this one (tables, but not equations) But why not switch those injectors -- they are not flowing a lot. Also have fun with turbo

Lets do the math together So you have 10lbs of boost on the L28 engine at 5000rpms and runing 13:1 Fuel to air ratio. So lets say you are 80% VE (fair guess for this motor). Now lets assume no pressure losses (fairly insignificant) due to the manifold/head restrictions (I know, this is not the case, but for the ease of math). Since it is a four-stroke only 1.4L consumed each revolution of crank Compressor efficiency 70% I will assume that you are running an intercooler of 70% efficient, if you are not then see the math bellow So lets do math Volume air = RPMs * (1.4) = 7000 L / min PR = (14.7+10) / 14.7 = 1.68 (not bad) equivalent density from my Propulsion book Pr (295K) = 1.31 Pr (compressed + ideal) = 2.20 enthalpy (ideal) = 40.1 Kj/kg enthalpy (real) = 40.1 / 0.7 = 57.28 Kj/Kg From the tables again Temperature of inlet air = 360K (yep it is 190F) -- are you running hot Temp drop from IC = 0.70*(360-295) = 45.5C Temp in the manifold = 315 K (or 108F) Now use ideal gas law for both conditions simplifies to ro_2 = ro_1 * ( T1*p2)/(T2*p1) = 1.23 kg/m^3 (295*1.68)/(315*1) = ro_2 = 1.57* ro_1 = 1.94 kg/m^3 So mass flow of air m_dot = V*ro_2 * VE= 10.84 kg/min now you are 13:1 with fuel so m_fuel = 0.834 kg/min Now you want 12.5:1 ratio new mass flow of air = 10.43 kg/min Need to decrease the air flow by about 4 percent So from 24.7 psia (absolute pressure) need to go to 23.7 psia or 9lbs of boost (plus minus factor of error) Oh yeah have fun (this was an abridged version since I did not include the temperature effects, but this is a good ball park figure So dial at 9lbs and retest the your car

Sure does, more of a bark then the bite

Hey I had a great service with MSA -- they actually waited for me for extra half hour when I was picking up the parts, I got stuck in traffic and was got there past their open time and I called them right before they closed to ask them reguarding if they can wait for me and they did GOOD JOB MSA

Usually between 48-56% for me and I did solve Shrodinger equation (220A MAE) what can I do

bastaad525, good info, now the question is can I use the SUs to break in the 3.0 stoker (use it for the first 2000 miles of the break in) since they are easy for me to tune and then install stand alone fuel injection (megasquirt) What would be a suggestion on that, thank you

But come on this would be such a bad ass motor if you do it right and with boost (god bless the boost) sky is the limit on the HP (until you blow the block), but I do believe 500HP is feasable on the stroker

what a sexy Z it is. True to the work immaticulate owner two thumbs up

hey it is fairly simple Stoichio is 14.7 anything more you are burning too much, but why rich is safe is because you are using extra fuel to cool off the air charge (in a sence a poor man's intercooler) because it takes heat to vaporize fuel thus lowering temperature, that is why you can "produce" more power at rich conditions (lamba 0.9) but turning up the boost. Alternative to that is to run Stoichio and have a higher octane gas (which requires more heat to vaporize and to self ignite). Another way is to add water (hence water injection) into the charge and thus cooling it (more boost, oh baby, more boost, oops I got too caried away): Basically: running rich -- low tech solution (low initial cost, but 20-30% more fuel burned) intercooler -- medium tech solution (higher cost, but still can use low tech solution on top to get the most bang in HP, still burning fuel like crazy) computerized water injection -- high tech solution (fairly high cost, but savings on fuel) Have fun with boost

Well I do since I am in grad school and gas 1.75 a gallon so I would rather spend less $$$$ on gas and more on car parts

I am an AE and getting my graduate work at UCSD

3.5 stokers are for the VG30 seriest engines. They save a special crank made for the 3.3 and 3.5 liter, but you should ask a Z31 club or Twin Turbo club on how it is done. For the larger L3x storker you could go to custom crank of 86mm and 90mm pistons with pin height of 24.7mm and some other stuff and get 3.3 litre stroker but at that you are asking for trouble. 160 thousands can be done on some of the blocks but if you are going that route (for more displacement) get anouther engine to work with, it will cost you much less then getting the max of the L series engines. My self I am going L30ETS route only bore it out to 87.5 mm and run a lot of boost. L series rock but there are always limits on how much you can go before it is too much. and do search button

Don't use easy outs, extractors or what not. They plain suck. The moment you apply any torque on them, they will snap off. My suggesting level the left over of the studs then make a mark at the center and take a small drill and carfully drill the hole into the stud. Use cobalt drills Dewalt sells them at 30 bucks a small set but you can pick them up at 10 on special (this is what I did). Why cobalt because they will not dull as easy and they can drill stainless if you really have to without much work (it get tricky with hasteloy X and inconel and then cobalt is your only salvation, except EDM). Then drill next size and then next size. You might even get lucky and remove the remants of the stud without killing the original thread. Now if you did fucked up take a dremel with some kind of stone, rougher the better, and start dremelling out the easy out. I had to do that on my Z laying upside down when I easied out the broken bolt (unsuccesfully) on the sway bar , it sucked ass it was more then PITA. I was very lucky that I successded.

Drool, Drool, Drool Did you see the old school blow through mikunis (Turbo a la carbs)

It does not matter what your boost level is If you cruising at 70mph down the highway without the acceleartion aka steady state (ss for short) and with Z-aerodynamics it requires 45 HP to maintain that speed (that is about right for 70mph and requires 180HP to do 140mph which sounds about right) and say that your engine it 90% volumetric efficient for both NA and boosted then you are consuming the same amount of fuel. Why? because those 45HP produce the required torque to drive the wheel which equates to the force produced by the tires which negate the drag force. Now to produce that torque a specific amount of air/fuel is required and it is constant for both engines. Now say that you have a very high compression engnie then your efficiency is much higher thus you will burn less gas to produce same HP (i.e. your throttle plate will be more closed). Also if your efficiency is higher you will consume less gas. But the problem of the High HP engine is that it is so tempting to step up the gas pedal just to "feel the power" and thus you will burn a whole lot more and your gas milage will decrease. Thus a turbo engine will seem to burn more while being more efficient. Do this experiment. Fill up your gas tank and drive on the interstate at 65mph for say 100 miles and try to avoid stopping and accelerating i.e. and then fill up and see the gas milate. That is only cruise control on you foot then you would get a Steady State gas milage and this is the one I have quoted for my vehicle (and that is on perfectly tuned carbs which last about 1-2months and then they go bad). For comparecent go much faster on the way back and have a "fun" ride and see how bad will your gas milage become

looks interesting. can you explain how does the rear strut bar is connected to the vehicle (the lower components).

L30 TS is in the works should pump 26-30 lbs of boost (hopefully by summer time)

well I am surpirsed that they can take a 5.0 mustang, wow. Nice kill

Hey last night after a long hard day at UCSD (leaving at 11 pm) I was giving a ride to a friend of mine to his car and we talked about how to solve my fan/alternator belt slippage (squels like MOFO). So I stop at the stop light and there is a honda civic 2-dr coupe. My friend says "race him" and I say "what the, ---, no" and then the light was for about ten seconds and I reved up to 1200rpm just in case and then the light goes green and I rev it to about 3000 and ease it in the the gear and the honda just drops the clutch and the race was on. Past the intersection he shifts to second and split second I drop the clutch into second and spinning the tires. At this point I overtake him and continue accelerating hard. He shifts to third and moment later so do I, he is two car lengths behind me at that point and then all the sudden his car decreases my lead of two car lengths to about one (I say - "Vtec kicked in") and then he shifts to fourth and I look at my tack 4.5K ("He ran out of steam" - I tell to my friend). and then I pull all the way to 6K and completely lost him and shift to fourth and slow down to see whom did I kill. Oh yea, feels soo good to kill a honda. (on almost stock Z with mistuned carbs, it was good) (yes, mistuned they need another tuning after 20K miles)

http://www.siemenswestinghouse.com/en/gasturbinesitem/index.cfm Here is one of the biggest turbos you can find supplies enough air to produce 265 MW (or 400,000 HP Trust me there are some that are bigger but still this is in top 10 of the largest compressors you can find. put that in your Z As an insentive I will give my stoker crank to a first person to put that monster in their Z (and yes it has to drive) Have fun [/img]

will a larger valves on a L28ET improve the flow in and out of the engine. Will it worth extra $100 to go for 46/38 vs. 44/35 mm on the valve size. What problems can it cause on the head and what kind of precaustions I must take to not get in trouble.