zolorin

Here what you are looking for http://www.turbofast.com.au/turbomap.html This will give you points in the compressor map With T3-45trim you can have 15lbs of boost at 2000RPM (VE=80 and Comp 70) The low range for the optimum boost 2500 rpm at 8lbs The upper range is 19lbs at 3300 rpm, so you see if you rev too high you will go out of the range of the compressor at 4500 and 19lbs you are at 70% efficiency and at 6000rpms and 19lbs you will overspeed the shaft, you can't maintain that PR at that mass flow Now if you go T3-50trim (press next map) you can be at 75% at 4500 rpm and 19 lbs of boost and your upper range can maintain 6000 rpm at high 60% efficiency now if you take T3-60trim (next map) you will see that 15# at 2000 rpm is not attainable : surge line you can only get 12# at 2000 rpm, but the benefit is that you have max efficiency of 74% at 6000rpm with 20# of boost Now if you add an intercooler everything will shift to the right (more flow) because with intercooling you can increase the density (decrease the volume) of the air and thus pack more into the engine so your mass flow is increased Now have fun with the program

4.5 to 19 psi at 74% but assuming that you get that mass flow. If you don't your efficiency will suffer

Intercooling does not change the efficiency of the compressor T3 will give you max 74% efficiency at the range of PR = 1.3 to 2.3 with Mass flow of 10 to 17 lbs/min (45 trim) The intercooler will cool the charge that is all (PR of 2 raises a temp quite a bit from 70F to 140-160F (may be more))

Hmm, trick question. From my understanding of Turbodynamics (Turbines, I was working with them for the last 3 years and only now I begin to understand the process, just a tiny bit ). But here it is: Say we have a trully adiabatic (perfect) compressor. So all of the work inputted into this compressor will go into compressing and not into heat and say to compress it it will take dH of energy (Joules / ( sec * kg ) ) -- how many Watts does it take to comress a kilo of air. Now say we have a real compressor with efficiency of 75% (hey you know these). So this dH of energy (enthalpy) is going to be higher, but how much higher is given by this formula: dH (real) == dH(adiabat) / GC_efficiency So 75% efficient compressor will use 33% more energy. Now for the turbine wheel, it needs to supply the energy required for the compressor so for the ideal compressor and ideal turbine is dH (compressor) = dH (turbine) for non ideal turbine (here is the efficiency goes in place again) dH (real turbine) = dH (ideal turbine) / PT_efficiency and dH (ideal turbine) = dH (compreesor needed) = dH(adiabat) / GC_efficiency dH (real turbine) = dH (adiabat compressor) / (eff PT * eff GC) So PT are about 70% efficient and lets do this math together So to compress to a specific PR which ideally would require you N watts of energy would require you 1.91N in real life. So the overall efficiency of the turbocharger is only 52.5%. So 40% of wasted heat goes to additionally heat your charge and 60% is wasted down the tail pipe. But this improved the efficiency of the engine by using the wasted heat that would end up in the tail pipe anyway Say our Car is 35% efficient (overstatement) and 65% is wasted, then with turbo we recovered half of that waste and brough the car to being whopping 69% efficient. Back to the housing question. It can provided a better spool up time / performace if the clearance between the housing and the blades is decreased. Possibly done on the newer models to improve efficinecy. But if two housings with sufficient airflow and similar blade clearance, they should produce equal chacactersitcs.

Oh yea, the turbo lag on the 60-1 would be a killer then say T3-60 because. Here is how I choose, I keep the RPMs constant and see how much boost I can raise without surging the compressor, that should give you the theoretical turbo lag (at what RPMS you will have boost)

That turbo can take you to PR of 2.8 (26 lbs of boost) unless you what that kind of boost don't take it. It is not as efficient as you want it to be. Take the TO4E - 50 trim you will be in the 78% range for the upper end and have enough more room to raise the boost. This is my choise (at least on paper, still in progress)

actually the x-axis of the compressor map is the normalized air that includes accounts for the temperature increase and density of the air. So this is a "true" amount of air in. Since the compressed air gets hot it reduces the effect of the compression. IE PR=2 does not mean that you have twice as much air it is only about 1.9 times as much air (the rest of the PR is accounted for the heat). That is why you want a more efficient TC (to reduce charge temperature out of TC). Then you use IC to cool it down and thus you condense the air into more denser form (so you can shove more air in but at the cost of the PR).

10,000 yen is about 100 bucks Current currency conversion is 100-110 yen to a dollar (very weak dollar) I used to order stuff from japan when it was 130-140 yen to a dollar, much better deal

thanks but I don't have any access to a comressor or air. Are there any more tests up your sleeve?? (except for tear down)

I would check your alternator I believe it does not provide enough power to charge the battery and was f-up so bad that it almost killed it. Or may be the contacts are very bad that you are not getting enough juice to the plugs

Did the compression test today after I Sea-Foamed the Crank case and the carbs, (smoked like mofo) and changed the oil on all six cylinders 180psi (with 150psi on the first stroke) Yet my plugs showed this picture cylinder 2-5 burn oil and cylinder 1 is lean. I do have the E88 (most likely with bronze valve guides and seats) head, should I start worrying yet or can I let it live (oil consumption is about a quart every 3000 miles).

So how would the kit contain and how much will it cost? (that is the bottom line I am looking at)

I guess I should go with the 16inch tires because they are not too large (and heavy like the 17inch) and should go with the 215-55R16 tires such that they would not stick out too much and be more "bullet" proof. Also coilover will be required, so I guess the cost is increasing for the brake/suspension/wheel upgrade Hmm, I will need to get honda spacers don't I? What about the talk about problems of them braking appart at the high hp application in this forum, are there any precausions against that and how often does that happen. Are they unfounded and what is also up with them? (I am planning to have a 3.0 Turbo Storker and run plenty of boost)

I want to upgrade my tires/wheels to a larger size. Right now I have the dealer installed mags (14x6 with 0 offset, correct me if I am wrong) I would like to go to 16x7 (235-50R16, 215-55R16) or 17x7 (235-45R17, 265-40R17) for correct size tire and not have problems with the speedometer (I believe original 240Z wheels were 175R14 which were 82 series, which makes the wheel diameter of 25.3 inches) I am NOT planning to install flares, but planning to change the springs, which will lower the car by about 1 inch (most Eibach progressive, Tokico, etc.) and install the big caliper brake upgrade. Q1: what is better for the smoothness of ride, Eibach progresive or Tokico? What are the benefits of the progresive springs (more info then the MSA explanation, personal experiece is welcome) Q2: What tire size will cause me to rub against the wheelwell and which one will sit nicely Q3: I have seen a lot of rims with 40+ mm offset, can those be installed and how much of spacer I am looking at, can you explain what exact method to calculate spacer size. Are there any other ways of not using spacer, any 4-114.3 rim selection suggestions, etc.

Sounds interesting, another upgrade possibility. Now what about this crazy idea, using the fron 240z brakets and modify them to run in the rear and run toyota small 4 piston calipers for the back and save some dough? It might seem an overkill on the rear braking but it could work out fine? Have you heard anything about it? I do understand that at that point you must run the adjustable proportioning valve

making your own socks , well my grandma can show how to make those, very tedious but can be done. Who sells those aftermarket brakets and for cheap, not like $150 for those brakets . Any one around here makes those for a resonable price??

Good info, about the front conversion, but what about the big rear disc conversion? here is a small info but I have questions regarding it Big Rear Disk Brake Conversion 240 SX 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port C Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1989-98 Nissan 240 SX calipers and hangers 1984-85 Nissan 300 ZX rear rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1986-89 Nissan FWD Maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets both bored, cut, and welded for correct offset E-Brake extension are available after market and they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. for this conversion it does not state do we need fron calipers or rear calipers from the 240SX, and can you clarify regarding the FWD rear dust shield business, and is there another way?? Also how does and E-Brake extenstion looks like?? (any one makes them?)

Hey I am interested in completely clear 240Z taillights such that I would include the red, amber, and white/purple LEDs Do you have any ideas where I can get them, custom, or make it at home

got it, will produce pics, give some time

I had a my zed hit from behind that hit the rear fender at slightly to the right from the Dead Center, so the bumper is wasted, the taillight was shattered (I replaced it), Now the fender has a major bump right where the taillight is mounted -- you can put a hand into the openning between the new taillight and the fender. Also, there are few other smaller bumps and twists. As well as the the fender poped of at the weld seams (about a 1/2-1 inch) long. The rest of the car is in good condition paint looks good at 10 feet but the small scarches, shopping cart dents are there, Also, I want the engine bay repainted.

Well myself I am a porker, don't do many upgrades that are cheap, but one that is expensive. I value my labour. But then there are small tinkering every day. So lean diet of eggs and then a ham and sausage on holidays

Hey, I am 22 and a proud owner of 240Z for the past year It took me about a year of saving up to buy a Z in good condition because it was suggested that I would pay extra for the car that looks fairly good and is in good drivable condition. I paid 4700.00 for my zed and put in a lot of dough into her another 1500.00 easy on upgrades. I had one of those older gentlemen help me out and teach me the process of repairing the vehicle, I am forever greatful. He returned to Ukraine some time ago, yet he taught me well on how to diagnose and troubleshoot the problems in the cars in general, since there are no Zs in Ukraine/Russia (well almost none). So my mom is ok with me tinkering with the car, but the costs are getting high since I am planning for a complete restoration and upgrades, she said that I could have gotten a new car, and I looked at her like she is the enemy of the state , but then she understands that I am in love with my zed

hey people, I just got lucky by finding myself a diesel maxima crank for my 3.0 TS engine build up. but the question arises what is the benefit of the 240Z rods vs. 280Z rods: from my understanding the 240Z rods provide a better ratio of rod length to stroke, but what is the ideal and WHY , I want to understand the priciples thank you all

Nice job, what will you charge for the 2 stage job with some dings/scratches removed and additionally install rear fender (one with tail lights) -- mine got a dent in it and all of the fumes go inside. Also repaint the engine bay. So I want to know the price for a -- only some body work and repaint the exterior and b -- a + engine compartment. You can assume I will pull everything of the engine bay such that I can save on the labour removing the engine and all of the accesories

I love cats and this pic was cold hearted , but funny as heck so that makes me what evil?