zolorin

I am up for the aim chat AIM: zolorin

Just chill dude, try to talk reason with your dad, not emotions -- and when emotions start overpowering it is time to stop what you are going and just chill: get a beer, watch tv, read a book, what ever rocks your boat. For me driving my Z, but if it is not possible 100mg of vodka will cure the emotions and stress. Now with working on the car, don't expect to have everything done the first time and first time takes 2-10 times longer then it would normally take. For example: to changes struts it is 8 hours of work according to Pep-Boys and that is for all four of them - cost $600 worth of labor. With my mentor, it took us 12 hours to change the first one -- JUST ONE and took f--ing 2 hours to loosen one bolt. Now when I did it by my self a year later and with all of the bolts loosened took me only one day to change structs and BUSHINGS in the back (extra work). Just needed some help to put the diffy back in its place. Now with front suspension another day and replaced struts, bushings, tie-rod ends and ball joints. Conclusion: as you break your car in (in upgrades and repairs) it will shorter amount of time to do that job. I have other examples, but this was the most relevant since you are doing the brakes. Just have fun and if you need to break some thing take a slenge hammer to a 4x4 or something.

It had been an interesting summer interning at Siemens-Westinghouse in Orlando, FL. I drove my 240Z all the way to Orlando and back without major problems: clutch slave cylinder went out in FL and I replaced it, and on the way back got a speeding ticket (going 63 in 30 zone -- cop was waiting behind a hill where they reduced the speed). Other then that I am very proud of owning this piece of technological marvel: simple, powerful, and reliable. Now unto obtaining more parts for the upgrades New stats 25-26mpg at 85mph and the worst was 20mpg at 75mph -- crap gas

Hey, if you are not rebuilding the head (i.e the head is on the engine and not work was done, and you are just adjusting them) then just do a hot adjustment -- save you time because you don't have to do it twice http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1803105&uid=786489 here is the website from kammy on how to do a valve adjustment and I did the way he suggested and it was fast and efficient -- picked up a 1 in Hg on the engine vacuum and lots of power Have fun

I am planning to build 3.0 stroker and turbo it and use Ultra Mega Squirt because it will take me time to get all of the parts and and assemble the engine. So what do you think of this option T04B 62-1 trim for the turbo?

Tell me more about getting a new dash for A$250. Where, How, etc.

I agree about number 1 100% becuase this is our country and we speek English, not Spanish, French, or what ever. Number 5 is good too. Too many people in Florida just tailgate you hardcore, i mean even trucks that will not even have a chance to brake as they will hit your ass if you brake.

to be more exact the drag coefficient is calculated to be Cd = Cdo + K*Cl^2 Cdo = zero lift drag (an object being in the way, sort off) Cl = is lift coefficient K = 1/ (AR*e*pi) == look up in the Aero books you will find this AR = aspect ratio, for siplicity ratio of length of the car vs. width of the car so for cars is is much smaller then 1 and for wings it is the other way around. there fore wider is better. If you kill most of the lift you will reduce drag, my desire is to do some profile calculation and tell you how low can we go on the drag. and 0.475 for first gen Z, you are all killing me, no wonder it is almost flying

Very nice relay board layout I am contemplating to do the same with the wiring -- since I am planing to repaint the whole car! Send me a copy of your wiring also, when you are done.

My bad, so are you all happy with your 3.0TS/NAs -- and how are the engine wear/tear so far. I want to build one eventually but I don't want to have a motor that will last one month and will need a tear down -- don't have that kind of money. thanks

Are Carbon/Kevlar brake pads usable in the street application or are they only for racing. Also what is the wear rate on those. thank you for your posts

I might be interested in the group buy of one set of 6 pistons. I am planning to build 3.0TS engine since mine started to show signs of ill health due to an overheat in Florida Weather (and leak in a coolant system, which was then resolved but a bit too late)

I am planning to do a front 4-piston Toyota 4x4 caliper swap with new rotors and all of the works as well as rear 240sx disc brake swap and the whole nine yards. My question is to those that have done those swaps how much did the braking ability improved, and what other benefits have you noticed? Any problems etc. Basically tell me are you happy with the upgrade or not and why. Thank you for your input

Does anyone make a G-nose conversion kit out of the Urythane -- I don't like the idea of the fiberglass shattering everywhere I did some search and what it appears that many suppliers make it out of the fiberglass and sell it for exuberant prices (I know it is a "labor" cost while the supplies are very cheap")

They rock, you defenetely get another 2-5 HP out of them -- Much smoother running (they are hot plugs) The only down side is they are expensive $8+ a pop otherwise a good buy

Some very poor pictures in the Hayenes manual on p54-59. I will try to explain what each does There are two throtle position/adjusting screws (one on each carb) should be near the flange on which it is mounted on the intake manifold and on mine they are facing each other. You want to make sure that they are exactly the same number of turns from being closed. Best way it is done is by removing each carb (cleaning and some voodoo) is to set each throttle to 0.0232-0.0272inches using a gage wire which is in this range. There is a screw on the top called fast idle setting screw -- it does what its the names says sets the idle. For carb tuning just have it at the minimum Fourth Screw is the Balance screw located on the throttle rod which connects two carbs together. I will tell you about this one later last is the pair of screws that are on the bottom of the carbs and are on the jet. Screw them in all the way and then unscrew them about 1.5 turns Fire up your car (use the choke), let it warm up. If your rpms are too high without any help from fast iddle screw then rotate the throttle screws (both of them) exactly the same amount in the same direction to reduce the rmps (should be about 700) Then you use an airflow meter of your choice to balance the flow between each carb by using a ballancing screw. Your RPMS will change a bit so be prepared to adust them after moving the balance screw. You want similar flow to each carb at idle and then at 2000/2500 rpms similar procedure except you don't change the throttle position at high rpm and use idle screw to rev your engine. Have fun

Best breakfast that I had was after the last final of my undergraduate studies (me getting a B.S. in Aerospace Eng) at about 11:30 am consisted of one pint of Bastard Stout (7.8% of alcohol by volume) and thinned out with the chicken sandwich (not my doing but it was good) But I love the omletes and I choose according to the availability and the desire one recepie is as follows 1. two fresh medium tomatos cubed 2. half a bell peper 3. 3-4 eggs (depening on size and apetite) 4. Salt and Peper to taste first heat the skillet with butter and them dump tomatos and bell pepers and mix and let half of the liquid evaporate then bring in the beaten eggs in the mixture and in the skillet mix around until the eggs cook Bon Appetite

spoilers are a bit excessive considering that he is adding a ton of Drag force. What is the deal with 1300 worth of stereo and 8 speakers on my 240Z a set of two speakers is more then enough and I am running a 50W RMS per speaker (which is quite a bit for my ears)

for me I have experience 19-21mpg mixed driving and up to 26mpg on a highway long trips. I have 3.9 rear end with early 5speed and points. I am planning to go to florida on my Z and I will long my gas milage to find best V-cruise. and oh yes I need to change the oil in my carbs to 20W since I was running experimental oil.

I get 18-20 city milage and 22-26 highway on the roundtops and 3.9 diff with early 5speed (L24) I recently installed the electronic ignition and my average millage improved from 19 mpg to 21 mpg and I do like to let the petrol burn. A bit rich mixture since our weather is hot in the day and quite cool in the night and I optimized for evenings/winter 8)