FubarI33t

I left the passenger side intentionally flat, longer road trips it pays to be able to place things behind you. Also leave plenty in the rear for luggage, or if it's a DD like mine, anything you need on a daily basis, like a toolbox for when this old car drops a half shaft goin down the road

I ran out of carpet so i did not get to do the back cargo area. but the space between seats and cargo is finished. and all in one day! The 10" sub was bought in that box. liked it so built around it.

I have done this swap on my 83 N/A. I went from R200 3:54 to R180 3:90. Then back again two years later What needs to be done is simple. You need the iner-hubs, CV axles from R-200 and rear rubber mount. the "cricket ****" as i call it that bolts the rear of the diff can be rotated 180degrees to match. just need to lower the fuel tank unless you can get your hands on a correct 10mm wrench for that tight spot. I swap mine around depending on what type of driving i am looking at doing.

I have not seen any difference in any thing suspension wise from 79-83, just breaks and R180-R200 differences. My 83 N/A is built from parts of 79-83. like a 79 R180 3:90 and a 81 5 speed N/A trans.

North MS or 200 Miles Near S30 Running, Can make the trip home. Decent Cond. Might Consider S130

I have also started on gathering parts for my SHO 3.0TT build. I won't boost over 10psi, but i am looking for something that will last for a few years and still be a blast to drive. I'll be using the M50D Trans from a Ranger and keep the power down until I can get an adapter made for a 6 speed as well. I'll be using low pressure remote mounted turbo's.

I know this thread is old as dirt, But. Will MegaSquirt adapt to the SHO DIS? or will i need to convert it to EDIS

that is beautiful. but i still favor the first one. does not have that extra welded on the intake.

That has got to be one of the most beautiful L series engines i have ever seen. Absolutely beautiful

tell me more about these BB V8 rods.

Cranks like Cams need to be stored standing up or resting in there proper spot in the engine. Helps to have a spare head or block if your guna store for a long time. It might of warped

I am ordering a new shifter boot. I am located in the middle east(army) and my car is in storage in Mississippi. So 1983 280ZX N/A 2+2 Used to be an auto. What are the dimensions on the shifter opening the sheet metal. Width and length.

Well like Dan said. at first a N/A LD won't have that high of fuel needs. Not untill turbo. The stock pump might be able to be converted, or tune down the 5.9L cummins pump. I do like your idea Dan, building a perf diesel from a N42 block instead of spending about a year to track down a LD block.

I was going to attempt to use the Stock injection pump untill boosted. Even though the stock engine is InDirect, it still see's great pressures. The Cummins Non-Turbo pump will supply way to much fuel UnBoosted. It's a project, Plus besides the injection pump, I'll be able to use a regular N/A or Turbo valve cover. With a remote turbo. This will also allot the use a a Header system a N/A engine would normally utilize. It's a bit of curiosity mixed with a lil bit of unique.

There is always the SX trans. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html

I spend most of my time on Zdriver, But i am curently working on a LD28 for my 83 2+2, but heavy modded LD. Most of the work is still in AutoDesk lookin for the stress points before i spend the money building only for it to fail. With the rareity of these engines. it's best to do as much research as possible. the current project is: LD28 bored to 3.0 P90 head Ported, Polished, and CC Modds ARP head studds-largest possible Cummins NON-TURBO Injector Pump Injectors mounted into spark plug holes converting into Direct Injection. T4 or equal turbo remote mounted near rear bumber. Starting boost 7PSI New pistions that target the compressed (about 600PSI unboosted 17:1CR) - into the injectors I aim to have then engine running N/A before I boost. The aim of this project is mainly to see if it's possible. Also a more modern L engine for DD. Plus Diesel engines will be replaced long after the gas engine. I want my Z for alot more years to come. Hopes of higher HP and tourq, but retain the MPG boosted LD28 give. The main concerns of the start are head gasket and Fuel tunning. For unboosted I'll attempt the LD28 Injection pump. Most of the compression will have to be made in the pistons and reworked CC, As the P90 will not be able to be shaved enough.

I'll be starting the swap soon. I'll start in a mock up car. and i'll leave the a/c-heat system so i can give an Effective wright up for most ppl who would want to do it.

Fixed. 14.8volts though out the system. the Buld Check relay went out. so that wire got no power to creat the field inside the alt to produce power.

Ok. I took jumper cables. with car running. Grund on alt to ground on batt. nothin. while ground hooked up. did same for pos. pos on alt to pos on alt. nothing.

ok. Brand new alternator. brand new wireing. brand new fuses AND fuse panel. All wireing checks out for propper connection. Continuity checks to make sure theres no breaks in the lines. WHY am i not geting any charge. Connected pos to batt output on alt, and ground. dissconnected fuse from alt to batt(so i get just alt reading) and it reads 0 off the alt. i had them test the new alt before i took it home. tested 14.8 at 60amps. so what gives

I am geting coninutiy on in input side and output side on that relay socket(with out the relay in). and there are two blu wires in it.

Thank you. mystory solved. that lil red light refuses to go off. even with installing a new alt. and the battary is reciving no charge. i've tried two used alt and 1 new one. same results for all three. checked all fuses, and wireing. so i am rewireing the charging system from ground up. and making some changes.

83