Aero Z

Johns Cars http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm( who does the engine/tranny mounts also will build you a driveshaft. There's other vendors who do the same thing but most people use him for the mounts. Many others may be able to build you a driveshaft depending on your wants. You just need a LSx wiring harness. Probably best to buy a standalone one. I'm not aware of a 'plug and play' one that just plugs into the Z harness but there's not a lot of connections to figure out. Any muffler shop can do your exhaust. You'll want to get proven exhaust headers that fit in the swap. Then once it all works and runs take it to the exhaust shop. You'll want to read some of the build threads here to see more what you're getting into. There's a decent pinned one at the top of the page. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57523-my-complete-ls1-install-documemtation-with-pics/

My car didn't have one of these pans when I got it but saw one on a car and now want one. Anyone have a good shape one? 70-74 should fit my 73 from what I've read. Send pics that show condition. Thanks

Might need to plan the outlets and wall studs to accept a side mounted garage door opener (where the lifts are going) and to have extended tracks and door panels that go all the way to the ceiling. Regular entry door if not planned already. side mounted opener:

After having my 1" Wilwood master on the shelf for about 2 years I finally did this swap about a week ago. I have the modern motorsports rear disc package with the Toyota fronts and had the 7/8 OEM master. It seemed like it worked pretty good that way so wasn't in rush. Followed the procedure here and it worked with no surprises. Just had to adjust my brake rod out a bit. My Wilwood 1" master had check valves in both ports so removed them. My OEM master did have the check valve in the rear port (never seemed to drag at all though). I don't think its a major difference but is definitely noticeable. Pedal effort is about the same but it wants to grab harder. Seems to make the rear discs work better at first impression. Certainly looks better with the rest of the new parts under the hood. I now have a Nabco 7/8 master in the parts pile.

FYI the 70-72 boxes are different than the 73. I have an extra early one I bought and found that out on my 73. If you're only converting an auto to a manual and your current box is good you can just add the clutch pedal and swap the brake pedal into your current box. Much easier than removing the whole box.

Did you get your fuel fittings figured out etc? I became quite good at mine having issues with it (Vapor smell etc). If you're using the tank shown, you should need two -6AN style fittings at the pump. You're showing the correct style. The old push on ones that didn't screw down could pop off. (Had happen twice). I'm running the '99-03 Corvette fuel filter. It has an -8an feed inlet and a -6AN return outlet. Run the return from the filter to the return on your pump. I didn't run the line from the charcoal canister/fuel tank back to engine inlet. I eventually yanked the canister completely and used check valves and a line back up to the filler neck. That stuff was removed on the tune anyway. Dont leave the charcoal canister and valve box. Its nominally OPEN without power and will stink up your garage...I know. The fuel rail fitting should be a -6AN too. After having the old one POP off under pressure I had a fitting welded on. But the new screw on style should be fine. By my count you'll need 4 -6AN and one -8AN fittings and whatever adapters you need for the style fuel line you're using. Measure everything to be sure though but I made a flowchart with specs and thats what I'm showing I ordered.

Found mirror.

Looking for a good shape door mirror to put on passenger door on my 73. Its the standard rectangular-ish mirror..not the round one.

Are you registered for the car show and other events or are you just going to be set up in the free parking lot area. Tour is already sold out. Don't see me paying $45+ to lose a car show and a tshirt but might consider going to look.

I am running the LS1 tank (not the Z tank) so my setup is a bit different. From my understanding the stock LS1 engine/setup (and on that schematic) runs the LS1 tank vent (out of the LS1 sender) into the charcoal canister. Once the tank vapors are cleaned some by that there's another line that runs to the throttle body to burn any vapors that still may be there but its not necessary. If you are running a stock Z tank your vapors are already going into the expansion tank. So don't think you need to do anything. Just plug up the inlet tube on the throttle body (remove the valve assembly going into it).

Did you check the local Fastenal or Grainger? What was the nut size (Diam/pitch?)?

The Dragon is a worthwhile road trip! I grew up not too far from there before it became 'known'. Have gone several times for NSX meets and drives but haven't got the Z up there yet. It has become pretty swamped with tourists and is swarming with police now. I hope you (and anyone else going to go) took some time to the Cherohala Skyway which is just as fun and less crowded. Its only a few miles from the Dragon. http://www.cherohala.org/

custom one along these lines"

What master cylinder are you using that had those check valves in it? I have also used ATE superblue in another car I had. You can get it thru Amazon.

Here's what I sent him when he made mine for my setup to compare. The left is the T56 and the right is my R200 flange. He said mine was right on with everybody else on that setup. Definitely measure yours.

Can you verify that the 280zx brake master had these residual pressure valves? I believe he has the 280zx master brake cylinder. I have the same 280zx master in my car too so I would like to know about this. When I have bled the rear brakes there is no fluid coming out of the bleed screw when the brake pedal is not pressed. Also the 280zx had rear discs so I wouldn't think that would be the case but would like it confirmed if anyone knows. question 1: I always thought those tin clips are just to allow a smooth surface for the 'ears' of the pads to slide on so they don't have to machine a smooth surface on the brake caliper housing. As long as they're secure and straight they shouldn't be causing your dragging.

I did my actual whole swap without any injuries or ouches really. I was surprised. I only injured myself when I was sitting down next to the LS1 (when I was storing it in the main garage away from the Z) when I was prepping it (looking at starter bolts or something quick). I had put the engine next to a bundle of trim left over from building the house and a metal crown staple was sticking out and I put my hand/weight on the stack. I got a cut about 1" long and .25inch deep into the meaty part of my left palm at the base of my thumb/wrist. Lucky for me it only bled a lot for a little bit and stopped pretty quick. It looked awful though and found out my wife isn't much help in bad injuries. I was able to tape it back together pretty well (no stitches since didn't go to hospital) and the scar isn't bad. I do notice some nerve numbness on one side of my palm near the scar now though.

Two pretty good examples. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/83518-1975-280z-ls1-6spd/page__p__791448__hl__ls1__fromsearch__1#entry791448 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/82639-ls1-75-280z/page__p__782698__hl__ls1__fromsearch__1#entry782698 those were done pretty well and worth about 15k so around that ballpark depending on paint condition etc. If just a rushed swap with not much improving or addressing any bad spots or trouble areas the value would go way down. Things done correctly and all issues fixed value goes up or stays around 12-15k depending on condition/mileage of LSx engine/Trans.

Another 350z seat in a 240z method. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103970-another-350z-seat-install-for-tall-people/page__pid__972398#entry972398

I originally did the Acura Integra seat swap when I did my LS1 swap and it was just ok. Then I came across some 350z seats pretty cheap so I decided to use these. They were more comfortable and the orange mesh goes well with my orange car. The other 350z seat install thread does a good job of showing one way to do it and it has good pictures of the seats in the car. So go here to see how others have done it. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/69503-my-350z-seat-installation/ That method keeps the 350z sliders in place then just weld a bar stock across then attach the 240z sliders. This adds some height to the seats and requires more welding for sure. IMO my method is much stronger/stiffer since the metal on the 350z sliders is really thin. Since I'm 6'6 (220lbs) I wanted to get them as low as possible. Here's the steps and pictures that explain what I did. Remove the 350z sliders by cutting them in the right places. This was kind of a pain. Just cut where you need to pull them off. Should take two cuts per track. I used some 1/8 x 2 flat bar steel stock cut to the proper width to span the width needed. Leave a little extra so you can weld on all sides. In the front this is very easy as its just flat. In the rear you can see that you need to bend it to match the butt pan of the 350z seat since it sits below the bottom of the metal sides. This is what makes the seats sit as low as possible. I used some scrap aluminum bar I had around to make a template. You'll need to match it pretty closely because the width the 240z seat tracks need to be puts them just outside the bends. You will need to get the fore and aft spacing of the cross pieces correct on the seat so the seats sit as far back as possible. If you're tall and the only driver you have some error slack but since my wife is 5'4" and wants to drive the car it still needs to go as far forward too. It was actually different on mine because my passenger side seat tracks wouldn't go all the way back. So you can see in the pic the front cross piece is as far forward as possible. On the drivers side it was about 1" from the end of the 350z metal sides. These seats sit as low as any seats could easily go without any structural mods. The original seats (minus the height adjusters) sit about the same height because they're very similar mounting. If you wanted them to sit higher just use the same height adjusters off the original seats. With my height I still have plently of room and could wear a helmet if I needed to. You'll need to do some trimming on the plastic side garnish pieces of the 350z seat as well to make it look factory and fit. I'm using the 240sx rear seat belt mod for belts. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97131-fitting-240sx-nissan-retractable-seat-belts-in-the-s30. I simply took the buckle from the 240sx and bolted it to where the old 350z buckle receiver went. If you're using your original 240z belts you should just be able to keep them bolted to the floor.