Aero Z

What fuel tank (from what model/year) and filler neck style are are you using? It sounds like you're at least using the z filler neck. A lot of people here use the LS1 plastic tank and that's what I'm using. I had trouble with the vapors coming out of the tank through the vent/evap line (which was just cut). I'm still tweeking it but I could smell the vapors the worst when I was filling it up and at a full tank so it seems it was venting out through that line. As you use fuel it also needs air to come into the tank which can happen thru the filler neck since the cap isn't sealed, if you're using the z filler neck/cap. I recently added a fuel breather to that vent line and that pretty much got rid of the smell. I have considered you could probably keep the Datsun expansion tank and reroute the new fuel tank vent line into that and then keep the routing from Datsun expansion tank to the datsun filler neck. I have the camaro filler neck which I put up into the plastic datsun neck that i cut off and basically just keep the flange. A solution will depend on the fuel tank you're using and the filler neck/cap. some related links: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/44974-ls1-fuel-tank-filler-neck-in-stock-location/page__p__378593__hl__camaro__fromsearch__1#entry378593 ( I kinda copied this but kept the upper end of the Z filler neck and shoved the camaro neck up inside it so it looks just like the original and keeps the Z cap) ls1 plastic tank info: http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ltx-lsx/342745-ls1-fuel-tank-plastic.html

PM Sent. Have new one never used.

PMing from local LS1 driver. (Hartselle, AL)

On my LS1 swap I have done the typical mounting of the (02) plastic camaro tank and use the integrated pump and sender just like the stock camaro setup uses. Also using the C5 filter and return line commonly done. Have wired up the sender and pump fine but am wondering what others have done with their charcoal canister and vent lines coming off the tank? Right now I just left those parts as is and it works fine but a couple times filling up I notice a gas vapor smell. Not sure if this is just gas slosh coming up the vent line or what. I believe I have capped off the stock LS1 gas vapor recirc thing on the engine and the smell seems to be coming from the tank area rather than the engine itself. I've searched (and copied others) installs of their Camaro tanks but can't find a good answer on what has been done with the charcoal canister and vent line routing. Pic for reference. Just FYI and not my setup exactly. picture

Yes I was rudely told the same thing basically. Would the Tokico 280z lowering springs make a 240z sit at the 240z factory ride height? edit: found the answer to that ? in the FAQ. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88025-installing-tokico-280z-hp-springs-in-a-240z/ I might go this route if I need to.

Still looking...still out of stock at AZC.

Looking for a set of arizona zcar heavy duty springs. I would buy straight from ArizonaZcar but he says he's out of the rears for 'a while'. I will trade my new Tokico springs (came with Illumina kit). They have less than 500 miles on them. I just don't like the ride height. (even worse with the LS1 swap in it now). Or interested in a set of any nearly new stock/euro springs for an April 73 car.

I have the Nissan stock diff mount for a R180 (which is the same for the R200 I think you just flip it). Part number: 55415-S30RD. I bought new and used it for about 300 miles before I started my LS1 swap and now have installed the R/T mount.

I did the same thing (Auto to manual in my LS1 swap). I was pulling the dash anyway for gauge replacement. It is true if you want to change the whole pedal box the dash has to come out. It seemed to me you can swap the pedals without changing the box though. My auto box was exactly the same as the other manual box I got just had a different brake pedal. I'm using my auto box now cause it had zero rust compared to the other one I bought so I know it works/fits. It doesn't look like it would be too bad to just add the clutch pedal into the auto box and add the correct manual brake pedal. I had a friend do this on his 260z (just swapped/added pedals). Taking out the dash kinda sucks the 1st time so I would avoid it if possible. This was on an April 73 240z. FYI. 70-72s use a different box completely and the clutch pedal itself is different. I believe its the same on in the 260z. Probably the same deal on your 300zx. Try to find just the pedals or see if you can remove the pedal from your existing box.

I was gonna go the 98-99 (Camaro SS stainless) stock manifold route as well since that is what I have and found the below link to be true. The stock lower flange on the manifolds would need to be cut and smaller flanges welded back on. The O2 sensor (only 1 on those manifolds) needs to be relocated too. Was gonna just relocate both of them downstream of manifold connection. What I saw was even with those mods the pass side manifold came very close to the frame rail and where the Z wiring harness (and where I put my LS1 engine harness) penetration and fuel line ran. It was gonna be too close to all that for my taste so I just got headers and the fitment is much better. I do have my old stock SS manifolds and smog crap if you need that.

While you have your voltmeter check the big fat wire where it comes into the fuse block; if its not getting power check the big fat wire that connects to the + starter solenoid and harness. Mine came loose/broke away at that connection. That white wire should also have its own M/F single connector near the dash/firewall wiring harness so check there if its connected ok at the starter terminal. Your key switch probably ok because you would still have headlights, dome lights, hazards etc.

My link My link2 have 2 of them both identical diameter of about 2 7/8. Don't really see any flaws.

I'm using my gauge housing to hold my Autometers but have just the Z glass section (from all 3 gauges). I can measure and post a picture of it. Mine is from a April 73 car. PM me to remind me if I don't have to you by Wednesday.

I did hook that up and all worked after I posted it to try it since I suspected that. By jumpering the old alternator wire I was back wiring that circuit to everything downstream of the ammeter. Without it connected everything before the connection was hot. Thanks for confirming. I also found a bad ground which was causing some other gauge weird problems.

I have the glass (and guts from gauges) if you don't get from other source.

I am also wondering what to do with this wire and am having trouble getting the non-LS1 systems on with the appropriate key position. What is done with ths WHITE/RED wire (and the black ALT wire) that originally went to the alternator? I have searched and seen some say you just need to power up that wire near the starter (which I have done but only the hazards and brake lights worked). I have replaced all the Datsun gauges with Autometers so I'm not using the old ammeter gauge wiring. Do I need to connect/jumper the old ammeter gauge connections to complete that circuit (wiring diagram shows it runs through there)? My car was originally a 73 auto. Any help is appreciated.

My 73 was originally an automatic. I'm getting ready to drop my LS1/T56 into the car. I've noticed that the shifter hole in the tunnel is actually smaller (length wise) than the manual Zs came. Some sort of plate welded in to make the opening smaller. Looks about 3-4 inches further aft smaller. Has anyone with an original automatic swapped an LS1/T56 (using JCI mounts) or how much room forward of the T56 shifter did you have in your manual 240z? If I know I need to enlarge the hole for it to fit I'd rather do it now before dropping it in and marking it. If I know it fits ok I'll leave as is. Also if anyone has done it what parts did you use to make the inner shift boot and console work (I think the console opening is the same between the auto/manual cars. Thanks!

I have a set and all hardware from a 73. Think I still have the little handle knob too if I can find.

Can you post a picture of your headers. installed or uninstalled. I haven't been able to find one and JCI didn't have one to email. Trying to decide on which ones to get. Thanks.

Converting auto to manual so need a 73 clutch pedal. (or a 74) I don't need the box as I verified my auto box just needs the pedal itself. If you have a brake pedal I'll take that as well since the brake pedal I have is from a pre73 240z. I have a complete pre73 manual box since I was sold the wrong one for my car. Just need the pedals to save on shipping etc and my pedal box is mint. Thanks.