oatmilk

Thanks Six Shooter. Onto the drums tomorrow. Will update hopefully with good news. Thanks again,

Okay here is the latest. Put the rear of the car on jack stands. Then i used my flare wrench and some tubing and loosened the rear bleeder on the master cylinder. The brake fluid only dribbled out. No gusher at all. Went to spin the rear tires. Passenger side rear spun a little but still dragging. Driver side rear, no bueno. It wouldn't budge at all. I then removed the master cylinder from them the brake booster to see if the master cylinder was moving at all inside the cylinder. I pushed the tip of a screwdriver in to force it compress. It only moved a 1/4" at best with as much pressure as I could muster up. Being a newbie to M/C movement I wasn't exactly sure what the correct stroke of the 240z should be. But taking one of the post above into consideration, when putting the M/C back together with the booster I put some washers on the two bolts before putting on the nut. The net effect being like I adjusted the rod coming from the brake booster back a tad so as to not make the master cylinder force the brakes into a dragging posture. So i moved on to the emergency brake. Looked it over on the outside and didn't see anything unusual. Pulled the clevis on the driver side rear and wiggle that around a bit and no change. I then took out the big sledge hammer and gave a few whacks on the curved portion as recommended in a post above. You could see the drum moving a bit front to back. That was at least good news because I now know the the drums are not frozen from motion front to back but just from rolling motion. I then went for a non-no. I sprayed PB Blaster inside the drums via the one small hole on the drum face. I didn't care about ruining the shoes since I will redoing them anyway. I just wanted to see if a combination of PB and inertia from the engine turning and weight of the car forcing the wheels to rotate would loosen things up enough for the car to freely roll. Knowing the amount of reduced braking this could result in, I just slowly began to drive the car back and forth in the driveway only. Sure enough the car started to move more easily. The engine wasn't having such a hard time. Picture a big smile on my face. After having did a valve adjustment, SU carb adjustment and install of a new electric carb friendly fuel pump which go the engine running much better the two days before I was on Cloud 9! Decided by a few good runs up and back on the driveway that the car was braking well and rolling backwards via its own weight down the inclined part of the driveway to drive for a spin slowly up and down the block. Again it was working perfectly. Happy, Happy Joy Joy. Figured the God's must be looking down favorably on me today. Company came over to the house so I put the tools away and went in for a bit. Went back out a hour later to move the car farther up in the driveway. Uh-oh! Not good! No rollie via its own weight anymore. Can hear the rear drums dragging again and catching and releasing a bit. This was far from Miller Time, it was Bummer Time. Ok at this point I'm figuring the PB blaster must have worn off or something. Next up take up further advice from posts above and remove the rear drums tomorrow and take a look. Unfortunately I still haven't been able to completely rule out anything from either end of the car being the problem. As they used to say on TV "To be Continued". Thanks for the help and ideas.

Thanks. Went through many searches on here and the web. Just wanted an answer likes yours that kind of tells me what to expect or look for. Thank you.

Also tried banging on them with a mallet. No change. I don't have a propane burner to try that method.

Hello All, I have a basically stock 1973 240z thats been lowered by the previous owner. Probably cut springs. I drive the car about 3-4 times a year so obviously it sits for long periods of time. I knew from a while back the brakes seemed to be dragging. Well I went to drive it yesterday and the rears are really dragging. The car will not roll even on a slight incline. If you jacked up the rear you cannot turn the wheel. The car will move forwards and back by the power of the engine in first gear but it will not roll. Let off the the power and it will not roll. I changed the master vac a while ago using a Cardone A1 reman unit. I recently verified that the reaction disc is in place. A new master cylinder was installed at the same time. So I need to know the proper steps to diagnosing this. If I unbolt the master cylinder from the master vac there is no change, the rear drums stay locked. The emergency brake is in the down (not engaged) position. I'm wondering if its the master cylinder but I have no idea how to test it on the car or off. The stock front brakes also seem to be dragging but nothing like the rears. Not even close. Still leads me to the master cylinder. In regards to adjustment of the rod from the master vac...not possible Maybe some are adjustable but mine would not budge a mm. Yes I can see it has threads behind the acorn shaped end piece but they appear to be simply decoration as that thing doesn't budge. I havent tried any PB Blaster on it though. If I open the rear hydraulic lines for each rear drum brake will that release the brakes? All brakes lines appear to be in working condition. I'm not sure if I had the emergency brake on when it was sitting for the last long period or not. Just want to drive this thing and now I can't. Thanks for all the help in advance.

As far as I know just the Supra 2jzgte is mid-sump with turbo return already there. Everything can be ordered from a Toyota dealership if you want to go that route. Also look on ebay.

I want to swap it into my 240z. So i need it complete. Preferably in or near Los Angeles. PM,Text me at 310-617-7615. Email at oatmilk1@gmail.com Thanks

John is correct. They will need to find a new master distributor (former one went bankrupt after they handed off all distribution to them) and place new orders for product from Japan. Not sure on the product lead times but figure 3-4 months. Probably back to semi-normal by the end of the year or early 2014 if everything plays out.

Hello All, I'm a fellow z guy with my own 240Z 2JZ build. I'm posting in the 300ZX section because I work for a company called Richporter Technology. We make aftermarket mass air flow sensors, ignition coils, distributors and cam/crank sensors. We are in need of a test vehicle to test driveability of the new replacement OE maf for the Z32 300ZX. We are willing to compensate you for the short test that should only take a few days. Check out our website at www.richporter.ca. If interested please give me a call at 951-312-2659. Mods: I hope I am not breaking any forum rules by this posting. I'm just in need and that it would be okay to ask my fellow z'ers for a little help. Thanks

Great car and video. Very solid all around. I'm one of the OG 2JZ guys. My project is coming back to life now after a ~ +/- 4 year hiatus.

grandma lives in lancaster. hope to see you guys some day. Do either you guys out there take your cars to willow springs?

Just a heads up. They are discontinuing many older Nissan distributors. They had filled their parts commitment to Nissan years ago and the molds are getting old and too expensive to replace. Most of the distributors that were sold as remanufactured were in fact new from Japan.

I would also suggest that you visit supraforums.com and supramania.com in addition to hybridz.org as they might also have useful information regarding your swap. Good luck with the bike or the car.

sure eveything looks great and top notch. Besides Powerhouse which is a great kit check out ETS system turbos and talk to Tim at RREV motorsports.

go ProEFI. look it up online or supraforums. has some good new features. second choice and more important then brand would be any system that you have experienced tuners for in your area. if they ecu isnt tuned right both a $400 dollar system (megasquirt) and a $4000 dollar system (motec) will run horribly and vice versa.

if I ever break the R-154, I'm going V-160. What a tranny getrag built for the late 90's supra. Total overkill.

next up the brakes, suspension and rear flares.

Hello all, I've posted some new pics in the projects section. My car is also shown in John's new Betamotorsports video on Youtube. Nice suprise. Thanks John. Next up the rear flares and suspension and brakes. And the saga continues

welding the strut tower and floor plates that will support the coming roll bar.

Decided that since it will be a street/track car and I didn't want my passengers always having to wear a helmet on the street, no full cage for now. More pics to come.

the silver Z pictured is my friends car. He's had them on there since the mid-to late 80's. I like those rims.

okay John we'll use that for my car

We own a 2004 Sienna LE, certified used. No issues at all. Decent power, good space utilization for the wife and our four girls. I would also strongly, strongly recommend you check out a used Previa. They come in 4wd as well. We had one and all we replaced was over 140K was the radiator, starter and the rubber doughnuts on the accesory shaft. If they had more power and more airbags (we had the non-supercharged model) I wouldnt trade it for anything. The are more spacious then all of the minivans sold today in my opinion. When we were looking for our first minivan years ago the Previa was at the bottom of my list. After test driving and viewing what seemed like 20-30 vans, the Previa came out far ahead of all the rest. They were built in Japan only and the build quality shows. 91-94 were NA and 95 offered an optional S/C and 96-97 were all S/C. Even with all three rows up there is a lot of space behind the third row. 3rd row seats fold up and even though the 2008 Chryslers are bragging about their 180 degree turning 2nd row seats, the Previa had them back in 1991! If you get the feeling that I love Previas, you are would be correct. Only reason it was replaced was due to all the saftey features in newer minivans. Previa over a SUV for me all the time. Minivan for life.

Fyi

Next up suspension after this.