angry_dave24

Basically I want it all from Techno Toy Tuning. Rear diff conversion, brakes, all four corners control arms, suspension. Everything they sell.

I have one if you are interested, only problem is the spindle pin had to be cut to remove it from the car, and is still in. I don't know it you need that part. I was going to sell the pair to Gabrial tyler with TTT. He offers $150. The axles are good, but it will need new bearing and seals. pm me your number if you want pictures.

So today due to the stupidity of Savannah drivers, another z has fallen. Not just any Z. The Z that has survived a divorce, twins and horrible weather. Its life ended abruptly in a 360 spin in the rain into a curb. The Z with a nasty VQ 35 swap, that just 1 month ago became driveable, dependable, and fun. Lets have a moment of silence for our dearly departed. But rest assured it will rise again with the help of techno toy tuning rear diff swap, with lower control arms.

So I figured out my problem, its the tank. I heard the 280z tank is baffled. Anyone confirm? I think I would like to go with that tank, then run a hard stainless line to the engine. I also plan on installing a pickup that sucks full from both sides of the tank. Any thoughts on this?

My Car has the mckinney mounts, and they work really well. Engine sits low and it is really easy to slide back and forth in the bay. The only limiting factor in sliding it back and forth is the front cross member, and the fire wall. Plan to remove the hood latch if you want the engine to sit far back in the bay. Overall I am happy with the mounts.

So money is no longer as tight as it was. Paid off a lot of bills with taxes I am just waitiing to see how the 350z pump swap works out. Please post lots of pictures, and ample explanation. I think that this pump setup, if it works properly, will be a great asset to the vq swap community. If it works, and the write up is good I vote sticky.

Is it wrong that I have both your cars as the background on my desktop? Amazing builds. I hope to one day have the time, resources and ability to do something like this to my car, never happen on a military salary though. Please for the love of god post a video of your newest creation when you can.

Yeah, that is an option definitely. One day i will post video of my piece in action. 6 cylinders of furry when it runs right.

Sorry guys had to go out of town for work, I will try what pharaohabq said in the near future and let you guys know how it turns out. I would love a way to just insert a 350z fuel pump with the built in regulator into a fuel cell and call it done, but that is way more than i can afford right now. Anyone got a good pump on the cheap?

According to the guage on the regulator it is getting 50 psi until under a load, then a few seconds after the load is put on the motor the pressure slowly drops off. Could it be that it provides adequate pressure, just not enough volume to keep the pressure up? The tank was boiled out and professionally cleaned. I have seen the inside of the tank. What would I have to do to set up the tank for fuel injection? I have verified the pump is getting about 13 volts. I have also verified the pump is getting plenty of amperage. I was trying to avoid mentioning the company by name, not trying to cause a commotion, I just want it to run right. For the small amount of time it runs right, it is stupid fast, when I get traction ( no lsd swap yet). Forgive me if my knowledge is not where I would like it to be when it comes to cars, but you are dealing with a novice.

Hey guys, its been a long time since I have been on here, but I don't know where else to go to get a good answer to my problem, and I am tired of pulling my hair out. I have a 72 240z that I had a vq 35de out of a 2003 350z installed into by a company that specializes in z cars down in Tampa Florida. They dynoed the car and it put down 273 to the wheels using their tune. It ran great for the short spurts that I drove it in front of the shop. This company also deleted the NATS, and used the stock computer. This supposedly gets rid of the need to use the standalone engine management, and it retains the VVT. What the car is doing is every time I drive the car it drives fine under little load. When I accelerate moderately hard after it has been running for a while, or if I have been driving in traffic for a bit and try to accelerate, the engine almost completely cuts out. The engine dies out until I lift off the throttle, then it idles fine. If I kill the ignition and restart it, it runs like a raped ape for about 1-2 minutes and the problem restarts. Upon investigation I have found that the fuel pressure slowly drops off from the required 50 psi, down to about 10 psi. I figured ok, well it must be the fuel pressure regulator. I installed a new aeromotive regulator and got rid of the craptacular regulator the people installed with the engine (no name e-bay special) The one I installed has 1 input, 1 output, and a return port. It also has a port that allows a guage to be installed. I plummed it all up, and went for a drive and alas it does the same thing. The pressure slowly drops off at the upper rpm range. I installed the regulator back by the tank, not my first choice, but this is where the original was, and I was just trying to get it hooked up to see if it fixed the problem. Would having the regulator back there somehow effect the fuel delivery to the engine, and potentially cause this problem? I am using a wallbro 255 fuel pump, fully capable of providing ample pressure and flow. I am using the stock fuel tank, drawing fuel from the original port. I would love to run a fuel cell, and nice AN lines with an internal pump, but money is tight. Any ideas would be really appreciated. NSDQ!

Where are you located, I have an N 42 off of a 1975 280z in decent shape, I lapped the valves recently and added new seals, cleaned up the carbon, couldnt hurt to have the head gasket surface machined before install. Let me know.

Towed it to z fever for the next year while I am in Korea. Having a vq35 installed. Should be a hoot when I get to drive it.

As much as it hurts my pride, and wallet, by no means do I have the talent, nor time, to do it all myself. I am having him mount the engine and all that. The rest of the car I will do myself. I am not doing a crazy build, I just want a nice daily driven 240z that is clean. I dropped the car off yesterday and toured the shop. He has a lot of really nice toys there, talked to his mechanics to try and get a picture of they're knowledge. His dyno guy seemed like that really smart guy that lives in his moms basement. Nice dude though. Really knows his ****. So in a year I will be back from Korea, and I told him, he is not getting paid unless that car drives dependably. We will see.

Thanks for the reply. I am just looking for a good bout of confidence as I am planning on spending approximately $9,500 or more to do the VQ35 swap with them. I know I can get a good engine and tranny with ecu for probably around 2500, but then I have to get the programming to remove the NATS and all that jazz. From what Doug at ZFever tells me, 9500 will get it running and driving DEPENDABLY with a stainless exhaust. So would you guys say that is a good deal or no. Strangely enough, the wife is convinced, but I am skeptical.

I was just wandering if any of you have heard of ZFever in Tampa FL. If so, what do you guys think of them? I need honest answers here. I am about to drop my car off there, a 1972 240Z and have the VQ35 swap done, with tranny, stainless exhaust, and maybe an R-200 LSD. I would do it myself, but alas, my experience is novice at best, and I am about to go to Korea for a year. The army sucks by the way. Hey maybe while I am over there and in close proximity to Japan, I could score some good parts for you guys, just charge you the cost of the part, plus shipping. It would be an excuse to go to Japan.

After reading this, especially about the different heads, my brain hurts, I'm in the army for a reason geese

Hey what can I say, I'm nieve about these things, not super bright when it comes to cars, a beginner really, this is why I wanted the opinion of all of you more experienced z heads. I just want a decent l28 for ease of install, and simplicity. I just want to be able to run a 14 in the quarter, you know keep up with gt mustangs. nothing crazy, yet Probably going to go the progression of l28, to l28et, then to ls1, maybe an rb25. I will never give this car up, searched too long and hard to find one in this good of shape. Too bad the engine was crap two weeks after I got it. Sucked a valve. And yeah I could go and inspect the shop building the engine, but I really wouldnt know what to look for, I am a shadetree mechanic at best like I said. So ask him for customer feedback, maybe telephone numbers, some dyno sheets too would be nice.

That comes with a warranty, and they provide the core. Kinda stupid to ship a core engine to California, at least thats what they figure. I just wish I could see some dyno numbers from one of these. Listen to it run. But alas I live in the anus of the states, in lower Alabama. I miss big cities, dang army!!!!!!!!!

Have any of you ever heard of Putneys custom machine out of California. I have been shopping for an engine builder, and he seems pretty legit. Cost for an l28 with a decent cam, ported polished, 5 angle valve job head, with nice pistons, pushing 9.7:1 compression with valve cover, and oil pump, and harmonic balancer all for about 2500 bones. I will later install some triple webers, and the mallory unilite distributor, Is this a decent deal, and does he do as good a job as he says he does? He says his engines are as good as rebello racing engines, but I have no real idea. Wanted all of your opinions before I pony up the dough. Thanks. I will get the cam specs when I get a chance and post it for you all. My first z build, want to do the ls1 t 56 but I just don't have that kind of chedder. I just want a nice daily driver, with a decent amount of oomph...... About camaro z 28 fast would be plenty, with better handling of course

Had a 75 280z never drove it. Planned on an ls1 t 56 conversion, as a daily driver. Junked it cause unknowingly, i bought an unsalvagable car. Then I bought my 72 240z, thought about the stock motor totally built as far as I could go, then the thought of the RB engines crept in, then I realized I am perpetually broke, on a fixed income, and stuck there till 2015, the army sucks by the way, and have decided finally on an ls1 with t 56 because of the compromise between performance, reliability, and a seemingly pretty easy install, just waiting on money. Its gonna be a long wait. Oh yeah, i have never even ridden in a z car before, but what got me going on it, was the video on youtube of the totally wicked 280 with the lt1 supercharge, spinning the tires at like 50 mph. wanted one ever since. So anyone near southeastern alabama wouldnt mind taking me for a ride. I just want to ride in one, inspiration you know.

It is always awesome to see someone making progress on their car. I bought mine almost a year ago, and have been able to do little to it, mostly due to lack of funds and inexperience. But hey what do you expect when in the military, making only 30k a year with two kids. FML!!!!!!!!!! Oh well one day I will get it done, unless I get stationed somewhere I cant take my car. That would suck.

That is a masterpiece, my is still in the infant stages, seeing cars like that really motivate me to drain my modest bank account. damn i need a raise

i have a 1981 280zx engine complete, with maf, you can have it all for 200. only problem, its in alabama. give me a call if your interested, 910-308-0934

Ok so i have a 1975 280z and i assume it has an r-200 diff, since what i have read on here is that the manual version had r-200 differentials. how much would it cost for you to rebuild this diff, with a lsd that will handle the power of an ls1. please call me at 910-308-0934