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zeeboost

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Posts posted by zeeboost

  1. Yep, I just installed a 5-speed out of an '81 280zx n/a on my L26 without any issues, other than cutting the opening in the transmission tunnel for the shifter. But, I think with yours being a 5-speed out of a '77, you shouldn't need to do any trimming.

  2. I was looking at buying one of those, but as soon as I drove it I changed my mind. It was a blast to drive, but I'm a tall guy and it was really uncomfortable. It made me lose hope on the Lotus Elise, also. That's gotta be one of the biggest reasons why I stick with the old Datsuns - small but plenty of room.

     

    Anyways, really nice car. It took me a while to get used to the tach, also.

  3. There's currently a Datsun for sale in Copper Canyon that I would like someone to go check out for me. I'll pay you $50 for your time/gas, and if you think it's a worthy buy, I'll request that you pay the seller $50 as a deposit to hold on for me to pick it up. Basically - I'll pay you $50 regardless if I buy it or not, but if I decide to buy it, I'd like for you to pay the seller $50 and I'll give you $100 instead of $50.

     

    If you're interested, please reply here and I'll PM you with further information and details. The sooner the better. Thanks!

  4. Alright, I just finished installing the ACT PP. I haven't driven the car yet, but I can agree that the pedal feel much stiffer, and I had to adjust the slave cylinder push rod almost all the way out to get full disengagement approximately an inch from the floorboard. I know this had been covered before, and apparently I needed a longer t/o bearing and a Pathfinder slave...but for others it worked well. Oh well, I'll see how I adjust to the new feel first. Anyways, the question:

     

    1) Is there a break-in period if you just install the pressure plate? I was thinking the break-in was for the clutch/flywheel to properly break in...is this correct, or do I need to do a few hundred miles city driving first? I'd love to go test this baby out tonight!

  5. The other option (which I've suggested before on many occasions) is a firmer pp with a stock disk. Smoother engagement and still will hold more torque. At some point you may need both to hold down the power you're making, but my idea is why suffer with a chattery clutch when you don't have to?

     

    I remember you saying this before, but IIRC you were talking to someone that wanted an upgrade for an 190-200hp n/a autoX car. The reason why I'm thinking just the disc is because in my head a 6-puck disc should be able to take more abuse than the stock one with a larger pressure plate. But I'm usually not correct with these things, which is one reason why I posted this :-)

     

    How much do you think an upgraded PP with the OEM clutch could hold? Plus, I'm not sure how many miles the current disc has on it.

  6. I've been running the stock 240mm setup for a while, but recently I've been tuning it for 18psi and, needless to say, it started slipping pretty bad. Now it breaks loose at 9psi in 3rd gear, so I need to replace it. I plan on upgrading to a larger turbo in the future, but for now I plan on keeping the same setup. This is on my '72 240z turbo, mostly stock.

     

    I'm thinking about just buying the ACT 6-puck clutch disk while retaining the factory pressure plate, but what potential problems could this create? Has anyone else here done this? I've searched, but I think the only one I found was Big-Phil with an unsprung disc.

  7. Now does it have a secondary function as a stationary sentry gun that can be thrown on walls? (laptop gun from Perfect Dark)

     

    Seriously that is freaking cool!

     

    *edit*

    50 seconds into the video demonstrates what I'm talking about (yeah, I'm bored)
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