zeeboost
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Posts posted by zeeboost
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Haha, thanks
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Check out the bid amount on this one:
Looks like Satan has the hots for a Z
I'm at work and can't upload a screenshot save - someone get it before it's too late!!!
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I work at the Mac Haik Ford dealership up in Round Rock/Georgetown - I wouldn't mind taking a look at it. I'll be honest, I don't have much experience with VWs, but noises are usually generic
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I thought the n/a would have an R-200 as well, but from what I researched, the automatic '83 280zx came with an R-180. Yeah, I was caught off guard when I tried to bolt the turbo driveshaft on the rear end, only to find out the companion flange was too small. All turbos came with the R-200.
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I did almost the exact same swap - from an '82 turbo to an '83 n/a - both were autos. I ditched the auto for a Borg Warner T5, but still, unless you're planning on trying your luck with the n/a auto, you'll need to swap the whole drivetrain. N/a rear end is an R-180, while the turbo rear end is an R-200. This means you will also need the driveshaft for the R200, and the tranny from the turbo as well. You will need to steal the ignitor, located (I think it's part of) your ignition coil. I swapped EFI wiring harnesses and ECUs, as I found it to be pretty easy. You still will need to do some re-wiring on the '83 280zx to get everything to fire when you turn the key - it's not much, though, so don't stress it.
Finally, you will need to SEARCH, a lot. This has been covered and there is a good write-up on the exact swap floating around here somewhere. I also had the aid of wiring diagrams to keep me going. It's been a good while since I've completed the swap, so I don't remember too much about it...
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Gpopshop e-mailed me back, and apparently the carbon-side is supposed to be facing the thrust bearing, so I'm glad I didn't install it based on my ASSumption. The second picture is the proper way the seal should be facing, for future reference to anyone.
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wanton (comparative more wanton' date=' superlative most wanton)
-cruel for no reason
-unprovoked or capriciously violent or malicious
-abundant and luxuriant
-undisciplined
-[b']sexually open/free[/b]
Noun:
(plural wantons)
-a wanton person
-a prostitute
I'd hate to see how I earned that reputation on this forum
:shock:Hopefully it's just because of my undisciplined nature, with my unprovoked cruelty and malicious attacks on other members
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What I was referring to is most people (did any?) on this thread didn't ask to have a certain title under their s/n, regardless if they donated or not. They were simply assigned. Sure, a supporter could request their own, but what fun is that?
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You still don't get to choose. It just...happens....
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Correct, I have both, and I can tell you the 2+2 is different.
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I feel like an idiot posting this, but I can't remember for the life of me how the old seal was installed. I'm rebuilding my first turbo, which is a turbonetics t3/t04, and this is about the last thing I need to install before I reassemble everything. So, does the carbon seal face towards the compressor wheel:
Or towards the thrust bearing:
I'm assuming towards the compressor wheel...? I googled for pictures of this, but the other turbo rebuilds I found used a different compressor seal type.
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Thanks again for the information, fellas. I would like to bring some of this stuff to the owner's attention, but then I'd feel that it would be insulting to him, or I'd offend him trying to advise him on how to do his job.
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Yeah, I can't understand why it hasn't sold yet...I mean, the dash is still "good"
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I talked to the owner today, and he still insists I should give the paint a little more time to cure. According to him, most to all of their paint jobs have those lines, and I'm not the first one to complain about them, but then after a few weeks they fade out. Anyways, he told me if they're still visible come next Monday, then to bring it in and they'll re-spray it. I told him that if I drop it off with them again, I wasn't going to pick it up until the paint was lineless, so to speak. He agreed, and said that they would most likely sand the paint and let it sit in the sun for a few days to help it cure...he said that's what they did in the past and it always helped to expediate the process...?
I don't know if I agree with everything that was said, but he was very respectful and courteous about my concerns, and had a positive attitude towards everything, so I'm hoping this will turn out okay. Guess I'll have another update in a week
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I've seen a couple of skyline awd setups in S30s, but they also used the RB engine/tranny. I don't know if you could work something out with the LSx setup...
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Looks like a recent picture; there isn't oil dumping out creating a cloud of smoke.
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I'm just trying to learn as much as I can about it before I confront them, so the more I know, the merrier.
BTW, I researched this body shop, and they had only positive reviews on the net. Plus, I've seen other cars that they painted, and they all looked really good. I'm pretty disappointed about this one.
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From what I can see in this photo it looks like the metallic is what you call tiger striped and what i call modeled.Is that a base coat clear coat job or a single stage?Most times painters will have a problem with metallics modelling lke that becuase they arent using the proper reducers for the ambiant booth temperature.If they are using to fast of a reducer in the base it "stripes" or models easily becuase the paint isnt flashing properly.I myselflike a reducer that takes a long time to flash thus letting the basecoat stay wetter longer and flow and do its thing with a slightly bigger tip in my gun.what you are getting there isnt uncommon and yes it is technique as well as reducers.DO NOT HESITATE TO HAVE THEM RE SPRAY IT.Do you know what the charged and what product they sprayed it with?
It's a base coat clear coat, and I don't know what brand they used, but I'll find out. The paint is the factory 307 blue that this Z was originally painted.
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1) I really don't want to wait a month and a half before I bring it back to him, and
2) I don't see how the paint will continue to spread across the hood after several weeks - that's why I asked you guys and other professionals about it.
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Thank you for your feedback. I'm going to try to talk to them about it tomorrow. I'm not sure what course of action to take if we can't come to an agreement. It's a two-stage paint, by the way. There are other little imperfections here and there on the car, but they don't really bother me the way these tiger stripes do.
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I just received my '76 280z from the body shop. When I went to pick up, I noticed the paint had noticeable lines on the hood and roof...I believe they are known as Tiger Stripes? I brought this to the owner's attention, and he told me that it would take about 6 weeks before the paint would completely adhere and spread out evenly on the car. I talked to a couple of other body guys about this, and they called bs on it. They said it was the painter's technique, the gun not adjusted properly, or something like that. Anyways, I took a few pictures to try to give you a better idea. FYI, it still needs to be wetsanded and buffed, but I told them I would do it to cut back on costs.
For the most part, the car looks good:
But you can see the lines running up and down the hood and roof when looking at it directly in the light:
Anyways, I'm contemplating if I should take it back to them to have them fix (most likely repaint) the lines, or if it's something that really will go away after 6 weeks. I appreciate any advice, and any info on what causes these lines to happen.
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I have the mounts and cv adapters ready to go for the R230...shouldn't be that big of a problem. I know nothing goes as planned, but I think I have everything covered with the rear end. The tranny I can't imagine being that difficult. I'll probably need to "massage" the tunnel, and mount it up. The engine...well, I'm not too familiar with the newer generation of chevy motors, so that may take some time.
I was trying to avoid taking the engine to a machine shop, which is why I asked about the valve springs. I can replace the valve springs myself, I'm sure it's no big deal, but I believe there are a few other measurements that need to be taken that I'm not too familiar with, which is why I would take it to a shop. The last machine shop I took my old school sbc to, he explained the different measurements he needed to perform in order to insure there wouldn't be any conflict with the new cam/spring/lifter/pushrod combo. I can't remember any more details than that.
The stock EFI datsun tanks are supposed to be well-baffled for an EFI setup - I'm running one on my '72 240zt with the fuel pressure at 45psi give or take a few, and I've ran it close to empty before with no fluctuation in fuel pressure while cornering (I have a gauge on the A-pillar). My biggest concern with the fuel tank is if I'll have any fuel starvation issues with as much power as I'm planning on making (especially since it will be with forced induction). I don't know if the stock tank will hinder me.
I plan on having custom long-tubes fabricated for the exhaust, but the stock logs will work until then.
Radiator hoses shouldn't be that big of a deal - I'll sort it out when I get the radiator and engine in place.
I won't have a driveshaft ready until the rest of the drivetrain is in place...then I figured I would have it trailered to a driveshaft shop. If I can get everything else mounted and roll it out of the shop, I should stay out of trouble.
I'm still searching on this, but I'm always reading about other people swapping over to the F-body or corvette pulleys...is there a different offset? I figure I'm going to have to relocate the alternator (based on others' readings) but I can fabricate a bracket for that or something. I'm assuming I'll need to stick with the 6.0 pulleys so everything will line up with the supercharger. Then again, I think that supercharger will also fit the 5.3, so it may be alright. Like I said, I'm still searching on this.
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After seeing the trailer, I wasn't expecting to be laughing throughout most of the movie. It was a nice breath of fresh air after being let down from recent movies over the last few months. It's definitely my kind of movie...it was great.
:shock:
I Love Boost!!!!!!!!!!!
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Correct, the engine needs to be under a load to build boost, so you shouldn't see the wastegate actuator arm moving. Way to go with the $550 pricetag - great deal! If you think it's great now, wait until you start turning the boost up