teknomage

280z (datsun / nissan) non replaceable ujoint replacement where to go to fix for just $103 in 30 minuets I recently had the need to service the U joints (all 6) in the drive train of my 77 Z. After the parts houses had sold me the wrong U Joints for the driveline several times, and online research I learned about the NON REPLACEABLE U JOINTS used. Research indicated 2 resolutions, replace with an older pre 75 driveline with replaceable U joints or have a driveline built. Locating a pre 75 drivline for a 2+2 proved difficult. I called several driveline shops who said they could not replace them, all except one. When I called Driveline Service of Portland and spoke to Joe Delk at 503 289 2264. I was in disbelief when he said he could get them changed out, so I questioned and queried him, emailed pics and finally took in my driveline. 30 minuets later I had both U joints replaced for a mere $103 with a pair of Rockford 430-10 U joints. Rockford apparently came out with the 430-10 U joint about 2005 thankfully. Thank you Joe for the very good news for all our Z cars....

I have been going through the drive train of my turbo diesel 1977 280z 2+2 getting the clunks out. I have rebuilt the half shafts, and I am now stuck at the driveline. The rear U joint is worn and loose and while I already have it out I would like to replace that one or both of the U joints in the driveline. However the parts houses have provided me the wrong U joints and further research has indicated that this 77 uses a stacked U joint that is difficult to replace? It may be possible to get a specialty driveline shop to change out the stacked U joint (I got a quote of $90 per u joint locally)? Is there a older stock 2+2 driveline with the replaceable U joints? would it bolt in? Has anyone been able to source these stacked U joints to do their own replacements? Also dose any one out there have a spare R200 differential with 3.36 gears?

I have been saving up about 2 gallons of filtered bacon oil, gonna fill my Z up with it just before going in for an emissions test at about 10:30-11 am just before lunch break. The looks on faces should be worth the $15 even if I do not pass...

maby here I can create a forum for all the diesel Z knowledge..... Please add.

the LD28 fuel injection pump has a coil next to the pulley to pick up RPM, it is a hall effect kind of thing where the inductors reluctance is varied by the aluminum pulley passing by with and without holes in it. I theorize that if we place magnets in the holes we can get a positive signal for the tach similar to the coil pulses it is designed for. Does any one know what kind of signal pulses the tach is designed to accept? I would like to avoid frying my tach if I can.

Well I got it all cleaned up yesterday, took the whole day but got it. When I finally got past it and took a good look at the mess I found it was not all that bad. Everything kinda blatted into the rear passenger corner, when the bottom jumped off the can (I am just glad it was not aimed at the dash). I was also lucky in that I had a thick blanket laying over thewhole rear deck and carpet with the back seat down for my mastiff, kept it out of the carpet, that blanket is now a shop throw now... Does anyone know if the window out of a 76 2+2 will fit a 77 2+2? Interestingly when in the door to clean up the glass bits, I found I have a power lock kit installed that is part of the car alarm, so the included key fobs can lock and unlock the doors. I think I will be checing out enabeling them I tried 409, green, orange, no go.... I tried alcohol, mineral spirits they kinda worked but SLOW...... Ended up using up a tall can of engine degreaser, and a pile of shop towels, applied with vigorous elbow grease. After the goop was lifted I went back with 409 to lift the thin oil the engine degreaser leaves behind. To clean the rear I removed the hatch, making everything easier to reach. While I had the hatch out I carefully removed the old bubbled, dry, cracked window tint and re-tinted. Still stinks in the car, so I will be doing weekly cleanings for a while with armor all and a fresh pine tree hanging on the mirror.....

Yesterday about 2 in the afternoon, from my shady back yard I heard a KABOOOM! I jokingly said to my buddy that one of the tires on his truck just blew up. He, was like ah hell no racing up the hill to investigate. Well joke was on me, I had thrown in a can of fix a flat. It was laying on the carpet under the rear hatch that happened to be south facing where I was parked. Apparently the high plains desert sun striking that can excited the molecules to the point the container could no longer contain their excitement and the molecules rapidly escaped as the crimped bottom failed. The body of the can rapidly accelerated in the opposite direction and went right through my drivers side window. As fix a flat expanded all over the inside of my car forming a sticky / stinky layer of uggh. Any good ideas for cleaning and lifting fix a flat without damaging the interior?

This thread reminds me of my neighbor who pissed off some unknown person who poured blended liquefied catfish down the fresh air intake grill at the top of the hood of his truck, mid summer. I asked him to park it on the other side of his property so I would quit hearing about it from my girlfriend.....

3.36 R200 for my 77 280Z wanted, any one out there have one available??

Efficiency log for: Z - 1977 Datsun 280Z 2+2 custom Lifetime Fuel Economy: 38.37 90-day Fuel Economy: 38.37 (I added vortex generators tooday) 3-tank Fuel Economy: 43.06 EPA Rating (% over): 22 (74.4091%) Total fills: 29 Average cost per gallon: $1.12 Average cost per fill: $3.49 Average cost per mile: $0.03 Total gallons used: 90.6 Total miles traveled: 3476.7 Total cost: $101.47 Total saved: 67.43 gallons Total saved: $75.52 Average tank distance: 119.89 I am very happy with my LD28TI