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Tebirkesueth

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About Tebirkesueth

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    Sweden

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  1. It has been a while... no real excuses more than waiting for the body to be completed. The car was recently taken off the table and put into the lift to fix the remaining structural items. This is mainly the rear of the floor and the floor supports with extensions back to the rear axle. Rockers + inner / outer wheel wells replaced + rear beaver panel (think that is what it is called). Same exercise on the right hand side. Rust had found its way into the quarters at the hatch close area (both sides). This was cut out and replaced.
  2. Hey guys, long time since my last activity (about a year in fact). The car body is still waiting for the needed weld repairs.. but things are slowly moving so hopefully it will be finished and ready for paint by summer. In the meantime I have worked on the undercarriage. In November 2017 I prepped the parts for sand-blasting and (at that time) powder coating. In the end the paint was changed to another type that was easier to arrange. Unfortunately I don't have a consolidated picture of the parts coming back, but you can get the idea from the assem
  3. Thanks for the input NewZed, the FS5C71B has a combined bell housing and front gear case as well (courtesy JDM junkies). I have to confess that I'm not 100% certain I have an FS5C71B gearbox, but it makes the most sense as my car is the right year and market to have one...The value of a restored original gearbox is a good point. I actually have two gearboxes with the same housing (at very similar).. so I plan to keep one original and restore it for future use. After looking around in my picture archive this is the best comparison I can find in terms of the housings; FS5
  4. Hello all, I'm pondering doing a gearbox upgrade as I have everything out of the car for my restomod and my 5-speed gearbox is "missing" 5th gear. The car is a 73 240z Europe edition and I believe I have the FS5C71B gearbox mounted in the car. Searching around I found recommendations of the FS5W71C swap from the 180SX, 200SX, and 240SX. I can find plenty of rather low mileage FS5W71C gearboxes for sale so that is not a problem. I read the following guide http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm and it is highlighted that you need the FS5W71B bell housing. Questio
  5. I have been looking at the Kemppi MinarcMig 200. Have heard good things about Kemppi in general, perhaps that suits your needs? https://www.premierwelding.com/kemppi-minarcmig-evo-200-package?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0-LntoPs1gIV1RobCh1GzgIBEAQYAiABEgJ-G_D_BwE
  6. Thanks guys, I think I'll have a go at welding it once it comes back. In the meantime I have been looking at replacement panels and I found a number of sources. Question number 1; Quality - I managed to find some threads about TABCO and their pieces and the quality seems to be comme si comme ca requiring a bit of massaging (granted it seems expected). Up to now I didn't find any threads about ZCD's panels, anyone have experience with them? I found some panels there which are reasonably priced. Question number 2; As many have seen the blasting revealed quite some rust and bad
  7. So... Another session of holiday and car tinkering is almost over.. Oh well, I tried to be productive. I've been trying to sort out someone willing to do the body metal repair work, but the availability in South of Sweden seems to be very scarce! Best offer I got so far is to start working on the car earliest this Autumn. Worst case I'll have to extend the search a bit farther, but I'd like to keep it close buy and with people known in the area. Luckily I can spend the time sorting out other stuff not directly related to the body. To be productive I decided to work a bit on the s
  8. Part 2 To ease the pain of looking at those Swiss cheese frame rails I finally got to unwrap the following: Last time I was home I also worked a lot on stripping all of the suspension and drive train pieces. I didn't like the idea of installing worn items and instead did some more shopping for seals, U-joints etc.. The major Components such as struts, driveshafts, axels will go the same sand blaster for cleaning and powder coat. Question - since I'm having a lot of metal replaced I was thinking that it might be a good idea to seam weld the chassi. Searching arou
  9. Hello guys, it is about time I make an update. Now that I'm finally home for the Easter holidays I can document and work a bit on the car. First off - good news! I inspected the mustache bar bolts and it turns out the iphone camera was phony and produced heavily distorted pictures, i.e. they are both straight. After going over the car my conclusion is that the sand blaster did a thorough job. Some major rust areas which were already shown above, but loads of small ones have popped up. To do this properly I will target to have it all fixed. Warning for heavy post.
  10. Koenigsegg is developing through their sister company Freevalve a camless engine. Find out the benefits found in a small turbo 4 in the video linked. To test reliability they have a Saab running the system since a few years to mature the concept. https://youtu.be/S3cFfM3r510 How about this on an L6?
  11. They didnt spray the metal of any large open surfaces. Because the lining of the roof is glued i opted to leave it installed and i think it got damaged while sanding the a-pillars. It was supposed to be wrapped but either i forgot to tell them or they missed it. The bolt is being checked more in detail though. Those are sturdy and very difficult to bend. The bolt could be replaced (albeit annoying), but my biggest fear is that they bent/collapsed the mounting point inside the car.
  12. Thanks for all the input guys! I have decided that I will replace the frame rails completely. I also received some more pictures of what the sand blasting revealed. I unfortunately forgot to tape over the inner roof or express the need to protect it. It therefore has blast damage and it is covered in primer. In addition one of the mounting bolts for the mustache bar has been bent. It looks like the floors have been replaced once upon a time. Some other interesting spots that need repair have also appeared. Next step is to arrange for a body shop to initiate th
  13. Yeah, agreed. Looks like the left wheel well together with part of the frame rail has a patch welded in as well. Unfortunately my dad has not had time yet to properly document the car. Hopefully he has some spare time this week to take some more photos of the underside and the rest of the frame rails. Already before blasting I had the feeling the floors were swapped, mainly because there was no under-seal applied on those parts and you could see some welding seams looking suspiciously non-standard. Thanks for the heads up! I´ll take a closer look when I have access to the car.
  14. Minor update; The car body and frame is finish at the sand blaster. Since I'm not personally picking up the car I only have 3 pictures to show for at the moment. I have to trust my dear dad about the actual condition until he manages to fully document everything. Some small surprises were revealed so you never know what you'll find once all the dirt, paint and rust comes off. Better get it all off so that a proper repair job can be done before starting to put it together again. I'll post some more photos as they drop in. On the basis of what can be seen i
  15. Hello Anders! Malmö is definitely close by. The car and the garage is located in the Österlen region, however I live in Switzerland so I only work on it from time to time (not often enough in my opinion) when I visit my parents. Do you have any nice pictures of your 260Z to share? I spy some "raps" fields in your profile pic so I guess this is your car - How bad is the rust on your 260Z? Mine doesn't seem that bad chassi wise, but I haven't actually sanded down any of the panels yet to see if there are any hidden surprises. - You are not happy with the 15" rims? I bought 15" ri
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