BJSZED

I had the same situation. Drill a hole all the way through the broken bolt. You should be able to tell when you're all the way through. Doesn't have to be a big hole. Then fill the hole with penetrating oil. Leave it for a day to penetrate from the bottom up. Heat it up with map gas on a regular old propane torch. When it's hot cool it with more penetrating oil. It should come out with some non-slip channel locks or vice grips.

Impact wrench, that's how most garages would do it. They wouldn't take the time to do it by hand. It should spin it off easily. Did you put it on with an impact wrench?

Same situation here. Put it in the pipe just after the collector

I believe it works out to apprx 2430 lbs, just googled it 1060 kg is 2337 lbs

I'm guessing the wire with the plug on it is an aftermarket coolant heater for cold climate winter starting. Looks like a 120 volt plug.

All the spots that look lumpy are likely rust bubbling up, pushing up the surface of the mat. Sometimes if you push on the bumps it sounds crunchy. I would remove it so you know what you have.

Yeah, probably not a good idea to drop the level unless you have a higher capacity pan

Might sound crazy but maybe a little less oil so it doesn't get all churned up at high rpm by the crank...gets foamy and pressure drops. Watched similar results on engine dyno tests on motor trend. If I recall correctly they picked up horsepower and oil pressure with a little less oil.

OP will probably figure that out with lack of responses....probably end up in the tool shed.

Thanks for your responses...good advice, will do

I've been reading on-line and getting confused. I think the resistor comes into play on a 4 wire alternator. It is used instead of an alternator charge light. Without it apparently it won't charge at idle. I believe I just need the diode on the run/start ignition wire from the ignition switch to the alternator.

Looking for wisdom on whether I need a resistor, diode or both on my alternator upgrade ? I know I need the diode to prevent run on after the ignition switch is turned off but am unsure of the reason for the resistor ? - 1972 240z - 90 amp maxima alternator - new speedhut voltmeter which does not use a light ( for the resistance on the ignition circuit ) - new wiring, old voltage regulator is gone thanks for your input !

Yes, you have to cut those holes out. I used a step drill. Lot safer than a knife.

Yeah, that's from me. Working on the dash and leaving it rest upside down on the top trying to figure out how to mount all the gauges. It flattened them down a little. I'm hoping they will return when upright. If you are keeping the stock gauges, it would be perfect as they fit the holes perfectly. These 2 5/8 gauges are a little small.