BJSZED

I'm guessing the wire with the plug on it is an aftermarket coolant heater for cold climate winter starting. Looks like a 120 volt plug.

All the spots that look lumpy are likely rust bubbling up, pushing up the surface of the mat. Sometimes if you push on the bumps it sounds crunchy. I would remove it so you know what you have.

Yeah, probably not a good idea to drop the level unless you have a higher capacity pan

Might sound crazy but maybe a little less oil so it doesn't get all churned up at high rpm by the crank...gets foamy and pressure drops. Watched similar results on engine dyno tests on motor trend. If I recall correctly they picked up horsepower and oil pressure with a little less oil.

OP will probably figure that out with lack of responses....probably end up in the tool shed.

Thanks for your responses...good advice, will do

I've been reading on-line and getting confused. I think the resistor comes into play on a 4 wire alternator. It is used instead of an alternator charge light. Without it apparently it won't charge at idle. I believe I just need the diode on the run/start ignition wire from the ignition switch to the alternator.

Looking for wisdom on whether I need a resistor, diode or both on my alternator upgrade ? I know I need the diode to prevent run on after the ignition switch is turned off but am unsure of the reason for the resistor ? - 1972 240z - 90 amp maxima alternator - new speedhut voltmeter which does not use a light ( for the resistance on the ignition circuit ) - new wiring, old voltage regulator is gone thanks for your input !

Yes, you have to cut those holes out. I used a step drill. Lot safer than a knife.

Yeah, that's from me. Working on the dash and leaving it rest upside down on the top trying to figure out how to mount all the gauges. It flattened them down a little. I'm hoping they will return when upright. If you are keeping the stock gauges, it would be perfect as they fit the holes perfectly. These 2 5/8 gauges are a little small.

I haven't read the thread on Classic Z but my experience was positive in the end. I will admit that I was getting nervous about being burned as I didn't use paypal and things kept being delayed. Hung Vu which I dealt with was reassuring and seemed very professional. The dash seems to be great quality. It attaches easily although they were missing the attachment plates in the center heater control area. I used silicone adhesive in this area as well as the lower area under the glovebox, under the steering column area and the two sides. I used painters tape to secure until the adhesive dried. The original dash has extra vinyl in these area which is pulled around the metal. This dash does not. You will see the attachment screws in the photo's. It's easier to use self drilling screws of the right length than use the original screws. If these guys make more 240z parts I would deal with them again.

I have one. Installed it on the metal frame. Fit well on the frame but it's not installed in the car yet. Yes, their communication is poor

Something else to consider ? Looked into it awhile back. Seemed to get good reviews by users. https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2013.htm