zboi

I'm not seeing any heat shields in that picture. Were they taken off? The temps you posted look good, but where is the IAT sensor installed? Air temp could be much higher by the time it gets near/in the intake manifold.

It is not possible for HP and TQ to remain the same as RPM increases. Dyno operator is doing something wrong.

I take it they looked at rpm vs MPH to confirm clutch not slipping? Do you have an IAT sensor, or knock sensor? If your getting too hot or hitting knock then that is just all that motor can do. Be nice to see a picture of the motor. These engines with reverse-flow heads are real bad for heat soak, you'll want to try to minimize that as much as possible with header wrap, heat shields, CAI, turbo blanket, etc.

Doesn't sound like valve float. Can you confirm that you noticed increased boost pressure when you cranked it up? The only way you are going to stop making power is when your clutch is slipping, you run out of fuel, or run out of turbo The more backpressure you have, the less you will be able to get from your turbo. If you were out of fuel that would be easily seen by climbing AF ratio.

I guess I should be more technical. My only real concern is how well the stock system meters air. Is the stock AFM okay under boost?

Looking for a camshaft that will fit an L28. Not looking to really spend any money though so hoping someone can be generous. Located in Durham NC.

I figure this has been done, but search feature wasn't working. I am wondering what is needed to slap a small turbo on an L28. Can I just do that and not need to change injectors or computer?

It seems the vintage air compact is popular so I'm leaning towards putting one in. My question is about the air vent that the original blower sucks air in from the cowl through. Does the vintage air need to use this fresh air intake? Or do I block off that duct when I install aftermarket AC?

I ordered a few carbon pieces off of here, and despite taking over 6 months to arrive (and still waiting on some) the quality is pretty poor. First off the parts are not full carbon fiber, but instead fiberglass, with a top layer of carbon (maybe, it could be fake carbon). On top of that their is either a huge amount of resin on some of the parts, or some sort of clear plastic shell on the outside. As you can see along the edge of the part in the first picture, there is a few millimeters of void between the carbon fiber and the actual edge of the part. Seems unlikely that such a massive amount of resin would actually be used which is why I wonder if there is some plastic outer layer. The weave is also all messed up, air bubbles, voids, surface imperfections, frayed fiberglass hairs extruding on all the cuts. I asked for a refund citing their "100% satisfaction guarantee no questions asked" and was told that they will not cancel my other half of my order and have not provided me any return number for what I have. There is a refund policy tab on their site with some very strict wording that contradicts the money back guarantee. All that said buyer beware.

I'm starting to lean towards doing 245/45R16 on all 4 corners. Now to see if I can get new spindles and rotor hats for the front and find a wheel with the right offset.

I have a TR6060, Ford 8.8 with 3.55 in the back and a Detroit trutrac. Realistically the car will be mostly street. I would like to track it though. I don't forsee being able to do tire rotations any time soon as I have the stock 4 lugs up front with AZC brakes, and 5 lugs in the rear. I've been wondering if this is a good time to just change all the wheels to something lighter too.

I run ultra high performance all season tires, nothing too fancy. I do spin the tires when the boost kicks in, but only if I try. My turbo spools pretty gently, it's a cheap cast impeller one. I'd consider the traction very satisfactory as is, I always think how much better it grips than my old 78 Camaro did.

I'm having a dilemma. Right now I have 225/50R16 fronts and 275/40R17 rears. I have a turbo LS, maybe at 600-700hp. The rears are 17x9.5 -20mm rota wheels, but now that I have changed my suspension, the offset looks kinda horrible. I think I would need more like +10mm offset to have them tuck correctly. That said rota doesn't make any wheel in that offset. Do you think I should keep a 275mm tire in the back and find a wheel that works? Or go to a 245/45R16? I personally think 16 inch is the perfect size, although the 17 is ok with the high negative offset. All that said performance is my top priority, so if going down to 245 is going to be a noticable traction loss I'd rather not.

Location: Durham, NC Price: $400 OBO I have a partial techno toy tuning big rear brake kit for sale. It's all the custom parts of the kit (mounting bracket and rotors) as well as the hardware. You'll just need the off the shelf parts like the calipers and pads ~$370. I can provide the part numbers for them if desired. These are new!

Tried to message you, but says you can't receive messages.

Maybe, I know when I am looking to buy something I search all the forums in the classifieds section only. I don't look in the other sections.

I still am unable to post on the classifieds. I think this is a widespread issue and is detrimental to the forum as a whole, as buying and selling parts is a big part of a forum.

Looking for a rear control arm. I'm located in Durham NC, so if anyone is local that would be even better.

I donated $20 yesterday, not seeing my status change to post in the classifieds though. Not really seeing much activity in the classifieds at all. I know before this was broken and the admin needed to manually change status. Can an admin change my status?

Hood is the stock hood with fiberglass vents bonded in. I can only squeeze a 2" pipe between the firewall and passenger exhaust manifold so would need to transition the exhaust down big time. Seems like it would kill the power, also would need to rewire the car as a bunch of factory looms are there asking to be melted (and a brake line). When I had it coming out of the hood before it was only about 1" above the hoodline, was working fine without residue on the windshield or fumes. Maybe that was alleviated some due to all the high pressure under the hood also shooting out of that hole, may not have the same effect with dedicated vents now. Only place I could dump it otherwise is down into the ground in front of the steering rack.

I have a turbo ls 240z. Right now I have the turbo dumping kinda out the hood, through hood vents. My hood is like this one: Problem now is the hood vents are getting melted, and a bit of the fumes are getting into the car. I can either cut an opening in one of the vents to have the exhaust fully exit the hood (I had it that way before I put the hood vents on). Or have it come out the fender near the battery. I don't really want to do the fender exhaust since my battery area is mint and it probably wouldn't be good for the value of the car, but that said it would be the best place for it as there would be no worries of fumes or rain. What are your opinions?

My experiences with any transmission Ford has touched in the past 8 years has been negative. Not to say they broke, but just really wonky shifting behavior and poor feel. Have you driven anything with this transmission before?

You would be better off going for the 8l90e if that is your goal, they are similar size. I wouldn't waste money hopping up the l28, it will net you far less $/hp than an ls.

I had seen those, but that is not an option. Firstly 1.5" is too much, secondly that kit is a huge job and removes the use of a rear bumper.

I am running 275s in the rear, and the tires just barely scuff the inner quarter. I could get away with flaring the fenders, but they are all full of bondo and thus any attempt to flare results in cracking bondo. That said, its the perfect opportunity to hide them with some flares or replace them. So question is, is there any quarters that come with small flares built in? Otherwise I need to find some small flares (like 1cm-1inch), but all I see are bigger 2"+ flares. Anybody have recommendations on what I can run.