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Everything posted by zboi

  1. 16x8 I'd guess, with whatever the maximum possible negative offset is. May not even be stock suspension, look how little of the tire is actually in the rear wheel well.
  2. How much does the rear kit weigh? Whats the noise like on the cantilever suspension? It is right behind the drivers head. Also how would you adjust toe on the rear? The uper mount wount allow it since both arms are tied to each other where they mount the knuckle. I only see it allowing minor adjustment by flexing the bushing. You may want to throw a balljoint up there instead. Would also just need one upper leg with that it seems.
  3. I have an original 240z radiator that has been cleaned and restored (oil cooler not included) and a R180 rear from a 73 240z. The R180 comes with the axles. Shipping of the rear is probably not doable but I could ship the radiator. -$100 for each -Located in Durham North Carolina
  4. What axles are you cutting? I thought the stock mustang ones were hollow.
  5. Sounds like you have a lot more learning to do. All ls motors share the same mount pattern on the block, but yes there are many cars with ls motors and hence many mount styles. Easiest thing is to look at some pictures of ls swaps on here and you can see how things line up.
  6. The only flares I can find are screw on fiberglass ones. Are yours steel or fiberglass?
  7. Where did you get those fender flares from? I didn't want to go the bolt on route and was looking for something like what you have.
  8. Seems to have gone up in price a lot, any roll bars that weld to the floor and the rear strut towers suggested?
  9. So before anyone says anything I know there is apparently threads out there about this, but when I searched I got 950+ results and none were about a roll bar. Regardless, is this still the recommended roll bar, and has the design changed over the years? From their website it looks like it attaches to the floor instead on to the wheel arches, and also seems to cost a lot more than before. Is Johnc still a dealer and can sell theses for a better price?
  10. Well you could continue to just blindly replace everything, or you could just hook up a logger to the car and see what is actually happening. Seeing as how you didn't even notice your map sensor unplugged before, I think its safe to assume the wiring on it is questionable. You may have swapped your front O2s with the back O2 plugs or something or cut some wires, or not have the power hooked up to the sensor.
  11. I have been doing some custom stuff to the rear suspension of my 240z, and long story short I need shorter struts for clearance reasons. Ideally I would like a strut cartridge that is 6" shorter in length than the stock rear 240z strut. Please let me know if you know something that fits the bill. I've seen that the front struts for a 92 MR2 are supposed to be 20.125" in length which I think is close to 3" shorter, but I really would like 6" shorter.
  12. Don't worry about it, that should be well within the CV axle's range of articulation.
  13. What I really need is the McPherson strut thing
  14. I'd take you up on that. My only concern is what if the pin is frozen real bad in that one too. Its a fair bit of work getting all that taken off.
  15. The threads got mashed from being beaten on and pressed, and then I welded a rod to them to try to twist it so it would break free and it just snapped the bolt. This thing is seriously stuck in there bad.
  16. It's a 73 240z passenger side and yes the lockbolt is out. I'm in Raleigh NC. A little over an hour from Asheboro
  17. So my spindle pin won't come out of my knuckle assembly. I put it in a press and it is bending the rear control arm instead of pushing out the pin. Wondering if anyone has a knuckle I could use, don't need any bearing or stun axle or anything just the bare knuckle assembly. Passenger side.
  18. So I been messing with mounting the 8.8, thought u may like to know of an easier/cheaper way of doing this. Just make the flat uprights and drill some holes in them then weld a cheap bushing. Similar to what Sunnyz did. The diff will be about an inch more forward than ideal before the cover hits the stock uprights, and this is made worse with the sandwich mount as it moves the diff forward by the thickness if the plate as well. So if you can CNC the uprights with the holes in the right spots, and weld bushing in you'd achieve a easier better mount and can eliminate the moustache bar. Wou
  19. I'm guessing this is dead then
  20. I don't think any 2 into 1 system is good on these cars, ground clearance is small already, and to use a 2-1 exhaust you would either have to go under the tranny, or make half an exhaust that goes around the back of it. Going the under tranny route would give you about 1" ground clearance
  21. spitsnaugle I'm very glad to see you doing this. I saw ZCD kit with the idiotic mount that bolts outside the cover requiring a new one and was wanting to make something exactly like you describe that sandwiches. Are you making a suspension upright too? I think that is the main thing to make the swap easy/cheap. I was wanting to do something like Will did but have it just use the explorer front hubs and not some Franken-dodge dealio.That way you could grab everything from a junkyard from one car, and then you can use the stock explorer CVs with just a shortened axle. Should be super easy and af
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