zboi

58x reluctor for a Chevy 2.4 ecotec came in. It is neutral balanced, lighter, and conveniently has 3 holes for bolts that are exactly in the same place as the pulley face. If you wanted you could drill and tap the pulley and this would screw on. I just put some plug welds on instead. Engine now runs normal! It is leaking some oil from where the timing cover meets the cylinder head. The head gasket overhanging bit was all broken when I pulled the timing chain cover and I didn't want to pull the head to change it. Seems a lot more oil leaks down there than I expected, hopefully some beads of RTV on the exterior fix that.

I picked up this ECU with all the sensors, throttle body, injectors, coils, etc. for $250 so HUGELY cheaper. You will need to tune it, which can be done by mail for a bit more or by yourself like me (I've done a few LS swaps so had HPTuners). There are on/off pins for cruise control from the E67 ECM I'm using, haven't ever tried to use it. On an older gen IV LS swap with a 4l60 I did there were a number of cruise control wires. I didn't hook it up, but I did hook up the automatic crank to start feature which was nice. Made the car feel real modern. 4l60/5 will fit in the tunnel fine, and handle the power easy. Especially since they were designed for 4000lb SUVs. The auto is easier on the rest of the drivetrain too.

Lots of space under there. I'm using 2.125" for the collector merge to 2.25" tubing ending with a tiny bit of 2.5" for the turbo flange.

Yep crossover under the oil pan, didn't like any of the aftermarket turbo manifolds and nobody was selling a stock turbo one for a reasonable price. Was going to use the stock NA manifold but it was cracked, so modified an aftermarket header.

Did some rudimentary balance testing of the LS 58x ring. It is indeed super out of balance. Waiting on my order of the 2.4 ecotec reluctor. Got the hot side buttoned up in the mean time, little Chinese t04e. Sprung for the billet compressor though, had to modify the waste gate mount to fit. I noticed the bolt nearest the inlet that holds the compressor on goes all the way through so I slapped some thread sealer on it.

I was hoping it would be close to neutral balanced, but looking at the LS crank there is a locating hole in the crank snout in the middle of where the holes are missing in this ring. So probably is a good bit out of balance. There is a solid version of this for sale, and also a different version for the 2.4L engines. The 2.4L version looks neutral balances, I think may be worth getting that one instead, it's the same price.

$22 later I have a 58x reluctor for an LS. I 3d printed a little jig to center it on the crank pulley, worked perfectly. Just a couple tacs to the pulley to hold it on and it's done.

Got everything together for some real runs. Engine was running not great, as if it would run okay for 1/2 the time and not for the other half the time. Looking at logs the RPM signal was all over the place. Then I realized I screwed up. The 58x signal I'm giving it is per 180 degrees of crank rotation instead of 360, so the computer is probably freaking out. I'll need to either add an some embedded system to convert the waveform, or get a 58x wheel.

False, TR6060 mount is in the same spot as the T56 (or at least super close). I used a CxRacing T56 transmission crossmember on a TR6060 no issue.

Here is the how much I took off of the flywheel teeth on the stock style flywheel, and then the aftermarket one. As you can see there is still plenty of tooth left for the starter to grab.

I'll post a pic when I get the engine back off, but I ground them down to about half height. It is enough gap to look like a missing tooth, but still ample tooth for the starter to grab.

Alrighty somewhat to my amazement I got everything wired and it fired right up! One extra change that I forgot to mention above is that the firing order is different between these engines so you will need to swap the pins for cylinder 4 and 2 on the ECU connector. Will post some videos of it running later, right now its not plumbed up to run for more than a second. Will be pulling the engine to swap in the lightened flywheel and stronger clutch, welding the turbo pipes, etc. But for anyone wondering this does work if you follow my instructions.

Yeah I don't know how I got myself into this either. I had sold the LS swap out of my car, got this L28 as part of it. Originally the engine was supposed to be running good, but timing chain was noisy. Story evolved to engine stopped running one day and has been sitting for a year. Between the mystery electrical or fuel problem with the L28, and the missing wiring from my 240z which I deleted for the LS (voltage regulator, coil, etc.) it seemed this would be the cheapest way to get it running. I am also slapping a turbo on it, since after all this it will only cost a few hundred extra and will double the power.

If anyone was thinking, why don't I take all the stuff on a vortec 4200 (08+) and slap it on an L28, here is what it looks like. Firstly, there is like one post about putting the vortec 4200 in a s30 where a guy laid it in there and it looked way too tall. This is very misleading, a lot of the height comes from the front sump oil pan. Moving to a rear sump pan and the 4200 is only ~1" too tall, maybe even less. Could probably get it to clear with some trimming of the crossmember. That out of the way, using all the EMS off the 4200 on an L28 seems like it would be pretty cheap and easy. Cheap yes I spent $250, easy no. You are basically doing the work of an engine swap electrically plus a lot of extra chopping and bracket making. I've probably put 50 hours on this and am still not done. You do end up with top notch components at the end though, full sequential ignition, dbw, torque management, etc. Some of the things done: DBW pedal, can be drilled to fit stock location. Has a metal base that can have stock pedal welded too Crank sensor. 58x (60-2 teeth). Missing teeth should be 81 degrees before TDC. Use a 2.4 ecotec 58x wheel welded to the front pulley. Contact me for centering jig if you want one. Cam sensor. 4x weird pattern. Gap in halfmoon should be under sensor at TDC. Can mount to cam gear if you machine it shorter (will need endmill or lathe which I don't have), can mount to distributor if you cut distributor case half off. Throttle body is much larger, will need an adapter. I made a custom 3d model for it, contact me if you want one. Injectors are 14mm, tall, flow ~27lbs (a little more than stock turbo ones). Will fit directly into aftermarket fuel rail. Knock sensors seem to just fit against block fine. Coils need a 1/8" or equivalent mounting bar, but otherwise are direct fit. The typical ECU wiring for any modern computer, tune, unlock.

Location: Durham NC Price: make offer I have all the coolant sensors and manifold sensors off of an 1977 L28. Let me know if you want any. Was going to cut them in half and use them as pipe plugs to save a couple bucks.

I've been placing a vortec 4200 EMS on an L28 and was pleasantly surprised how easily the coils mount and thought I'd share. I'm using the 08+ Chevy trailblazer coils, which are the stronger ones, with the same internals as the LS coils of the year. I'm using an 1/8" aluminum bar with some holes drilled in it to hold the coils. I'm using the stock m5 bolts that came with the coils and some m5 nylon insert nuts on the back to hold them. I cut a couple little tabs out of the aluminum to bolt to the assembly to the valve cover. I got the entire EMS for $250, but these coils are about $55 new at the parts store.

10 thousandth out of round, 1/4" deviation fore and aft

I had pulled it off with a puller to do a timing chain job. Woodruff key fits very snug. I put a dial indicator on the pulley, it is perfectly centered, just 10 thousandths of pulley runout. Not trying to spend $300 on a new balancer. I guess I'll see if it's a problem when I get the engine running.

Is it normal to have wobble in the crank pulley on these engines? There is maybe a 1/4" difference in the the space between the crank pulley and the timing indicator as I rotate the engine. I also see a slight wobble in the water pump pulley, it's probably closer to 1/16" though.

So the Datsun flywheel is 120 tooth, 58x wheel is 60 soooo going to try grinding off 4 teeth from the flywheel 1/2 width and trying that as a trigger. If that fails it will be a 58x wheel bonded to the balancer

Peak power RPM should not be bouncing around hardly at all. Fiddling with the tuning should either bring some gains in certain RPMs if its targeting AFR or spark, or move the whole curve up. Your tuner should have locked down pretty much everything at a lower boost, then started adding boost and seeing the result. Which should result in a nearly identical graph shifted up with each increase in boost, until a point where the turbo runs out.

Was it identical in shape? Peak RPM and torque at same RPM each run? Trending up doesn't mean much. Like I said before your cam should not be falling off so soon, I'd expect peak power out another 1000 rpm. You have massive duration and overlap, which will amplify backpressure issues.

All the kits I've seen have adjustable motor mounts to slide the engine forward backwards. Full back on them will still have damper on or in front of rack. You can put them low enough to have a stock gen IV truck intake clear, but just barely.

Post another dyno sheet with lower boost!