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Everything posted by zboi

  1. You would be better off going for the 8l90e if that is your goal, they are similar size. I wouldn't waste money hopping up the l28, it will net you far less $/hp than an ls.
  2. I had seen those, but that is not an option. Firstly 1.5" is too much, secondly that kit is a huge job and removes the use of a rear bumper.
  3. I am running 275s in the rear, and the tires just barely scuff the inner quarter. I could get away with flaring the fenders, but they are all full of bondo and thus any attempt to flare results in cracking bondo. That said, its the perfect opportunity to hide them with some flares or replace them. So question is, is there any quarters that come with small flares built in? Otherwise I need to find some small flares (like 1cm-1inch), but all I see are bigger 2"+ flares. Anybody have recommendations on what I can run.
  4. A 4l60e barely fits, mostly due to the pan width at the bottom. Any reason that you want those extra two gears and extra weight?
  5. Where: Cary NC Price: $250 I have an aluminum rear hatch louver assembly taken off my 280z.
  6. Tire to fender lip was getting contact, as was strut body to rim. The wheels are rota rkr 5 x 114.3, max I could get them in was -20 offset. I got one side pretty well fitted now. Have a cm of clearance between the tire and inner tub, and maybe 4mm between strut and rim. Tire tucks for the most part.
  7. Car is street and track days use. I'm running 17x9.5 -20mm offset rear wheels, 275/40 tire. I was getting contact on the wheel lip at about an inch of before hitting the inner wheel tub. I don't want fender flares, and to get them to tuck with this size I need to get them right next to the inner wheel tub. I have stock rear struts with coil over sleeves on them, so 3" diameter springs and 10" long. Right now the springs end right at the bottom of that pocket the strut goes in, which is also right where the wheel lip is about. Maybe a shorter spring would also help. What length coilover sp
  8. I'm running a knuckle off a different vehicle so get to attach the strut to the top of it any way I want. I also plan on using a camber plate to slide the strut further inboard towards the diff, I have coilovers on the car so the diameter of the strut assembly is smaller. My main concern is the force being applied to the strut tower. It will place more force in the vertical plane, not sure if that matters though.
  9. Side to side when looking at the car from the back.
  10. Is there any negative effects of changing the angle on the mcpherson strut? I want to make my rear ones near vertical to make clearance for a wider wheel.
  11. Anyone know why they would put a heim joint in the circled location? It allows the hub to pivot up and down without the control arm moving.
  12. I brought up these issues when I received my cradle. The response I got was: "I'll ask the engineering team to revisit the cradle design, but as far as costumers are concerned, we have sold close to 50 kits of the standard (32 shipped), and 28 of the double wishbone (14 shipped) with 0 complaints besides powder-coating getting damaged, and/or hardware missing. Plus we are the only company that designed a rear differential subframe, and only company that designed a double wishbone set up in a car that never came with it. You could go with Z car depot that the front mounting tabs will bend and
  13. I suggest you take the time to read what I wrote @tim.d
  14. There is no bushing where the front of the cradle attaches. There is only bushing on the mustache bar. Thus the cradle is half solid mounted half soft mounted. There is the stock bushing on the front of the diff to the cradle, but then there is just a rubber bushing shoved in as a washer between the diff cover bolts to the mounting tab, which will not provide any dampening in the direction of torque. They oddly kept the clamshell mounts on the front to bolt the cradle to the car, but without a bushing what is the point? A bushing will not fit in there as they made the cradle tubing so large. T
  15. The kit sucks, doesn't fit a 240z. Will only allow 275 tires in stock wheel well (for the fancy cantilever version). The bushings are done wrong and don't function. The company has the worst sales rep I have ever dealt with, been waiting a year to get all my stuff in, and I'm still waiting...
  16. Taking everything to the dump in another week. Speak up if now if your interested in anything before its gone.
  17. bump for price reductions
  18. bump for price reduction
  19. Parts taken off of a 73 240z: Location: Durham North Carolina !** I'll sell everything together for $50 for local pickup **! R180 rear end with axles -$30 Stock refurbished radiator -$40 SOLD 2x rear aluminum drums - $50 Frigiking dealer added AC unit - $25 Expansion tank with hoses -$25
  20. July 15 2018 is when I donated.
  21. I'm a donating member. I've donated $20. Yet my ability to post in the for sale section has been removed. I sent messages through the site support email but no one has responded. What is the deal?
  22. Impressive that that is cooling well. Well I'll be going the smaller fan, stock radiator, less work route then. Shame I already did some now unnecessary trimming to the core support.
  23. Trying to find out how everyone with a turbo ls engine are doing as far as cooling. Especially if using a stock size radiator. I am doing a turbo swap and can just barely squeeze in a stock sized radiator in the stock location but can only fit 1 14" fan offset to one side. Otherwise I can get a slightly longer but narrower radiator ("double pass" style with side tanks) to fit if installed at an angle. It can fit a 16" fan in that position, but obviously is going to be a bit of work to mount. Any thoughts on which route to go?
  24. I did the cx kit, was cheap and easy initially but is now causing difficulties. It mounts the engine high and the motor mounts make it so you cant use factory ac mounting locations as well as limiting the alternator setback. Looking now the apex engineered piece looks better and will allow you to run better suspension. Seems it may still cause interference with the AC though.
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