PUSHER

When the engine is off and I go to turn in over it grinds and doesnt turn the engine, sounds like the grinding it makes when you try to start a car with the engine on. If I put it into 1st and push the car a little bit the starter will work and start the engine. Am I due for a new starter?

will try, thanks.

Yes, I know this is a common problem for z's and what Ive basically been told to do is take apart the rear end and hammer everything to spec. There is about a 1 cm gap between the spring perch and the tire on drivers side, the same tire/rim will rub on the spring perch on the pass side. What I was mainly wonder was if this means my hub/strut housing is bent. Because if something else in the rear susp was bent wouldnt the tire not rub? And I do have the adj bushings and have it on max toe out settings.

I have some toe in on my passenger side rear tire and I've taken parts of the car apart and checked for bending but havent really found anything. I then tried to put on a pretty wide tire on, It fit on my drivers side rear and did not rub, but when I put it on my pass side it rubs. My question is that since the hub and strut housing are connected does this mean my hub/strut housing is bent?

Was just wondering what offset would be needed to clear the suspension with a 14x8 with 205/50/14 tires. Thanks.

Was just wondering if anyone knew any good places to buy zg fender flares, thanks.

http://www2.maximumautoparts.com/parts/parts1/maximumautoparts/wizard.jsp?year=1976&make=NI&model=280-Z-001&category=I&part=Clutch+Slave+Cylinder http://www2.maximumautoparts.com/parts/parts1/maximumautoparts/wizard.jsp?year=1976&make=NI&model=280-Z-001&category=I&part=Clutch+Master+Cylinder So get those 2 things?

Thats what I need to correct right? Thats what the picture is of?

Story: was at a driving event and in the middle I notice my clutch is engaging really wierd, I had to push it all the way down to get it to engage. I pull into the pits, its very very low on clutch fluid so I fill it up. I go back out, its spongy then starts to stiffen up. Then I go dry again, and can not shift at all. So I add fluid and Bleed the clutch, This works until I notice it going spongy again. I call it quits then. That is whats leaking, for reference, that picture is taken upside down. The J on Japan is facing the rear of the car. When I push down the clutch a jet of fluid will squirt out of their. It leaks out of that rubber boot.

already using the bushings to adjust the toe, so I cant really use those.

Have some negative camber on my back right wheel and was wondering how some people have fixed their camber? I saw zcarparts street kit and it basically looked like you used washers to adjust the camber, can I do this to my stock perch. I'm not sure how ghetto this will sound, but is it possible to drill out new strut tower perch holes and to get most of it out? I would use my adjustable bushings to get it to spec, but I would do something like this to get it closer. Thanks.

Couldnt find it on the can, how long should I let the color coat dry before I apply a clear coat? Thanks.

Think it will be fine with primer?

ugh, went outside and it is very very humid, will this affect the paint performance wise at all or just make its characteristics different and take longer to dry/ect.?

Thank you very much.

Got to practice painting my friends 300zx today, and after looking over it their were some good spots and some bad spots. Think my main bad doing was moving to slow. I did his with a single stage paint, but will be doing my car with a primer, color, clear coat. So I got some questions. 1) Do I move fast and spray a strip from left to right then stop, go back and spray another strip underneith? Or do I spray left to right, move down then right to left? 2) What ,if anything, will be different between painting the 2 stage and 1 stage? 3) Will primer be any different from the single stage I used. 4) Its sanded with 100 grit atm, I was told that primer would hold best on that. How long after I primer should I wait to start sanding with 400 and paint again? 5) I'm planning on doing light coats of paint and building it up, how long will it take before I can paint another coat? 6) If I do get drips, what is the best method to fix this? Wish I had more practice, but im not really expecting to much from this paint job, Id just like to do the best to my current ability. Thanks for reading/helping.

My halfass method: Cut out all the rust affected metal and fiberglass over it. That should take care of the floor pretty easily, and if the holes on the outside arent to big you can easily fiberglass over that.

Thanks guys, judging by how many dents I have gotten on my other car from cones at autox and drift events I dont plan on making this perfect. My basic goal was to fix the rust holes and to paint it. So basically I should sand down the red with 80 grit and make it smooth and even, and feather the edges where metal is exposed? What type of primer should I use?

Was told to use an orbital sander with 80 grit( I could only find 100 grit) and was told to not sand down to the metal. The paint is a couple layers of red, lite grey, then a bronzish brown. Where should I sand to? Or should I just try to make it all smooth and leave the red on there? Thanks.

Gonna be painting my z on my own, dont really expect much as im sure it will get chipped from rocks and dented from cones. What I've been told it to just sand the old paint with 80 grit for primer and to not strip it to the metal. My question is what do I do with the spots on my car where the paint has chipped off and you can see the metal, its got a good indention in it and isnt smooth, what do I use to fill it? very little bondo? Thanks for your time.

About the electronics and fuel issues, I was wondering what electronics would you need from the 280zxt to swap it over to a 280z(EFI, dishpistons fyi). Because I remember driving with a friends and he had something called 'the brain' next to his feet that he would jiggle around to get it running correctly, would I need to swap this fine piece of equipment over? Would using my 280z stuff and just switch to turbo injectors and fuel pump work, or would I need a turbo ecu and more stuff? Thanks for the help.

Nowhere near collecting any parts yet, but just thinking about the future. Was wondering what options their are to turbocharging a 76 280z, I know you can swap a 280zxt engine but I was wondering if anyone has pieced together their own turbo kit. 1. What pieces work? Im assuming a 280zxt exhaust manifold will bolt to my head, and I've also heard of people using rb20 manifolds. 2. Where would you get oil for the turbo? Do you have to tap your block? Also, are their any supercharger applications, I saw the camden supercharger in the forsale section and was wondering if anyone had any info on a setup like that. Thanks for your time.

I lack proper tools to fabricate mounts etc. So I figured a L28t engine would be the best bet for $$/hp/ease. I'm wondering what is needed along with the engine. Heres what I think I need so far. 1)Engine, manifolds,injectors. 2)Transmission 3)Differential(needed? need half shafts to?) 4)Driveshaft? 5)Any form of ECU or Wiring harness? My main concern is the step from carb to efi. I'm guessing I will need the wiring harness from a 280 for the injectors. What computer stuff/boxes will I need? Will I need to upgrade anything else fuelwise(fuelpump?) Thanks for your time.

I just plan on putting an older carbed v-8 into a 240z... thats it, I dont plan on any engine work. I just want to have a moving v8 240z. Suspension/ brakes/exterior can all happen later(unless the stock suspension will have problems with the extra 100 pounds in the front). Since I can not fabricate my own parts, I need to know if the JTR kit is everthing I need to put the engine and transmission into the engine bay? Also are there certain headers that will fit, or is a custom one needed? Thanks

Yes I searched, then I searched after you told me to search(of course I find more info =P). Ive got a ROUGH idea of what stuff will cost. Stock 350 SBC= 300$ 5spd transmission(I keep reading about 1k+ 6spd trannys, to much to me)=???? JTR mounting kit(now if I buy the whole 400$(?) kit, is that everything I need to put the engine and tranny in?, will I still have to fabricate stuff?) Custom driveshaft(?)=500? I/H/E=1,000 radiator, hoses,fluids, little things=? I've still got a lot of researching to do, and I do appreciate your help. No, I can not fabricate, but I have some friends whom can. I relize its cheaper to fab your own mounts etc. But I was wondering if I use the JTR kit if id have to fabricate stuff still? Thanks.