tube80z
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Posts posted by tube80z
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19 hours ago, aka monZter said:
Hi All, been many years since I participated in this community. "monZter" was my username. I still have my cars and want to get back to work on them with my original username. However, the password needs to be reset and the email address on file is long obsolete, so I cant I get my new email in the system without first logging in. Its the chicken before the egg. Can you PM me for my new email to reset my old account?
Much appeciated
monZter
PM me, I can help.
Cary
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Greetings Everyone,
Due to the increase in spammers HybridZ, registration has changed from being automatic to manual. That means one of the Admins will need to approve any new registrants. If you ask or tell someone about HybridZ (please do) let them know registration isn't automatic anymore. We'll do our best to stay on top of any additions and hopefully you all will see a lot less spam.
Thanks,
The HybridZ moderation team
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Hi Clarke,
Have you contacted any of the dealers that sell Race Technology equipment for help? I was thinking RT and Veracity perhaps as a start. I have some code from an FSAE project that used Aurduinos and CAN to send along data into a CAN stream. It has sample code but I haven't verified if it works or not. I'll look for that and forward to you.
Cary
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20 hours ago, clarkspeed said:
Trick is caring for it after install. Never let a drop of solvent touch it. I use Novus products to clean with paper towels.
Costco has a god cleaner with no ammonia called sprayaway. I used to have to get it from an industrial cleaner company and it was expensive. I also highly recommend the Novus products.
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7 hours ago, Main13 said:
Morning. I've tried resetting my PW several times but I'm not receiving the email link to reset it. I've searched the mail logs for any email from HybridZ but found nothing.
If someone could help, that would be appreciated.
Screen name is Jersey.
Thanks.
PM sent to user.
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That's a large cell. Is it set up for longer enduro style events or are the images misleading on size?
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On 3/28/2023 at 9:19 PM, JMortensen said:
Yep. That must be it. Thanks.
Sorry, I should have included a picture but that is what I meant.
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I added points to a few of you to get the new status you see. There's a system in place that adds points for various things but I don't know if it always works. It appears it was all reset at some point. Maybe a software update lost it all. Like Jon said it doesn't change your ability to post. I'd like to change it so new users can't until they are validated to reduce spam but I haven't found that setting. And I don't think I'd change things unless getting Dan's blessing that it made sense.
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On 3/26/2023 at 4:57 PM, JMortensen said:
2 options, swan and under mount. They're both less than 6" above the roofline. Swan is a lot more complicated, obviously. I think I can get the second element under 6" above roofline with the swan, would have to lower it with the standard pedestal.
Will remove the 10" autox spoiler and probably install a similar spoiler that is 3 or 4" tall.
The wing element is behind the roof in the swan, so less frontal area, although I think a second element would be almost entirely above the roof as viewed from front.
On the swan neck it doesn't need to go up and then down to the top. You can have it come straight in on the wing nose and mount that way too. Take a look at all the F1 cars for reference. This will allow you to get the wing as high as if you mounted under. XP rules also say wing or spoiler but not both. Out side of that you can do whatever you want. I'd keep the 10 incher and drop that angle down to less then 30 or so and see how it change flow on the wing. You can use oil drops or tufts if you point a camera to see how they are moving.
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Log out and back in. I made a change for you.
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12 hours ago, Miles said:
Log in says I am a Newbie but have been here since July 28, 2001 and I cant respond to posts
I'll see what I can find but I don't really know the rules on why/how the ranking works.
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2 hours ago, JMortensen said:
I think we're on the same page there. The bracket to floor will be on the outside of the wing support, so the bolts will go through the sheet metal, the wing support, and the 1/8" plate, and then there will be a nut welded to the back of the plate. Hard to draw this stuff well, and helps if you don't change colors... duh.
Should be more like this:
Looks good to me. If that ends up being in the way you could always have a small piece that comes above the body and pip pins to the wing's uprights. You could potentially use that system to shift the wing around if you wanted a track setup vs. an XP/SCCA legal setup.
Personally, I'd not use aluminum up rights and use steel tube. Then 3d print a a aero shaped cover. I looked up the cost of alloy and choked a little. I keep thinking pre-covid prices for things and getting the shock of what they are now. Keep up the good work!
Cary
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Hi Jon,
You don't have to drill any holes into your panels. You use a thin pressure puck mounted to the surface usually with tape. If you look at a few of Julian Edgars vids he shows off a purchased one. It's a slice with a axial hole down to a radial passage that you hook the tube into and either run to a pressure sensor, manometer, or magnehelic guage. You can find some gauges in inches of water on Amazon too.
cary
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23 hours ago, JMortensen said:
Julian Edgar maybe?
Yep, I'm a moron
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20 hours ago, calZ said:
Agreed on it just being guessing, though. That's what a huge amount of the amateur racecar aero you see is. Very few people have the knowledge or resources to properly test small changes like that. Wings and airdams are easy to measure, but smaller features get hard to isolate and measure.
That's where I want to disagree. While many amateurs' may not have access to CFD, wind tunnels, or advanced DA that doesn't mean you can't test these things in a more scientific manner to remove the butt dyno from the experiment. As Jon pointed out I messed up the name of Julian Edgar who has a decent book and a YouTube channel that promotes the content. If you sit through his videos you'll get the high points of what's needed.
If you have a newer gopro you also have a data logger and you can record old school manometers inside the car to see if you're change made a difference or not. There's simple coast down testing that can be used to determine drag, etc. It doesn't appear this person did any of that and copied what looked useful here and there. If someone paid for a lot of development and has the same car as you do then this process may work but you also need to know what to change to keep the car balanced. One of the downsides of downforce is that weather has an effect and the more you add (downforce) the more you'll need to change things to stay balanced.
Hope that helps,
Cary -
On 2/27/2023 at 2:43 PM, calZ said:
I'm confused what you mean by the dive planes would do better. The Gurney flap is to lower the pressure behind it and help get air out of the wheel wells, not create downforce by themselves
According to the video they wanted to reduce drag. That mod will increase it. This video is a total waste of time. It's mostly opinion from seeing what a bunch of other people did on youtube and trying that. No data logging, no attempts at actual testing, etc. If you look at Julien Bailey's youtube videos he shows you how to test this stuff for real in simple ways. The gurney should be on the front of the fender and not the rear.
Cary
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McMaster reference was to find a part and I figured you'd use that to get a cheaper price. I rarely use them myself unless I'm in a real bind and need something right now. It's cool that I can drive over to a warehouse and pick it up.
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I thought I might add a few words. While I work in big tech, I can't speak for my company nor any others. I would say that almost all the legitimate companies would never be using this to screw around on public forums. We do test internally with employees (eating our own dog food), solicit public beta testers, and often do customer research under NDA or using third-party research firms. This is probably some bad agent trying it out their own version of a tool to see if it works better than other tools they have in their disposal.
Hope that helps,
cary
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Those adapters can be found in the McMaster catalog and come in all sizes. You can also drill one side or the other too. I may do the same thing you have shown if I decide that a v-belt mounting is more trouble than going this way. At least with the electric motor on the pump you could run the oil while the car is stationary to cool it after a track session.
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Nice mounting Clarke. Are you going to cover them to protect from rocks and track debris?
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17 hours ago, clarkspeed said:
Been meaning to chime in but I've been busy with family and work.
Some of my thoughts and observations.
1. I think some lsd's get hotter than others. Helical gears hotter than friction disks. I don't know many who run the stock Nissan lsd disks that have had problems or run coolers. And of course most racers change fluids frequently. Greg falls into both of these. And he is not running a 400Hp V8.
From what little I know once you go past a 4.11 ratio they heat up a lot more.
17 hours ago, clarkspeed said:6. The tilton pumps are just a standard pump with special seals. Viton I think. But on one else has the seals when I was looking years ago. So I ended up buying a pump on ebay. I knew there were people selling the standard pumps as Tilton units, but I have never had a problem with mine. I think it is legit.
Tilton has a few different pumps. One is made for continuous running and another is for intermittent. Check our https://tiltonracing.com/product/cooler-pumps/ for more info. For most the intermittent pump should work fine. But if you are doing enduro or long races then I'd get the continuous version as a precaution. There's not a huge difference in cost between the two.
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I've seen these setup using one of the NASCAR blower fans (3-inch duct) that draws air from the back part of the cabin and blows it onto the cooler. If you look on ebay they sell all kinds of carbon covers designed to do that are be used in a pulling manner.
Setrab oil cooler, https://www.ebay.com/itm/224998346250
Carbon cover and cooler, https://www.ebay.com/itm/175617112356
Carbon bits, https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=Carbon+fiber+Oil+Cooler+duct+&_sacat=0
You can't beat ebay used NASCAR parts prices for a lot of these items. I would recommend you take any used oil cooler to a company the does ultrasonic cleaning. But given this is a diff you could probably just ran solvent through it in the a clean parts washer if that sounds like a pain.
When you add the floor you can either cut a hole for the cooler to exit into or add one to the rear valence. The old IMSA Corvettes had an tranny cooler located where the license plate used to sit with a fan behind it.
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Is there a reason we left this up?
240z SCCA vintage race car, restoration
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Nice work Aydin!
Here's my trick when it comes to back purging stainless exhaust tubing. I use a pig. Maybe that's not the right term but it's a device that you can run down the tubing connected to a cable/hose so that you only purge a few inches (8-10) near your weld. You're probably thinking this is some high dollar piece of equipment. It's not, it's a water balloon (more than 1) connected to the end of an air hose I put through the exhaust. I use a valve to inflate/deflate on the other end. When you need to weld the next bit of tubing you pull out enough hose, keeping track of how much you need to clear the weld area. Sometimes you need to use foil to protect the "pig" from sparks or sharp edges.
Maybe this will work for you maybe, maybe not. I'm just a huge cheap ass who hates wasting expensive gas. The last time I filled my argon was 2016 and I complained about the price then. I just checked how much it costs now and almost broke my office chair from falling over.