alsil

Here's the post I had on the same subject a while back, some good info in it: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115921 I'm still thinking about this swap myself, I still have a 36 mile commute, and I drive my wife's car because it gets better gas mileage than my Silverado.... it gets like 25-26mpg, which isn't bad, but isn't the 35 I used to get in my Civic. I'm guessing with a stock 2rz with just an air filter and a 2" exhaust I'd get probably 30mpg and probably mid 14's. Those motors have serious torque, especially in a 3200lb truck... so imagine what a 2200lb Z would be like. Best of both worlds... and even at higher power levels would probably still beat 25mpg. I've thought about going 3rz because of the fact there are much more of them out there, and they're still in newer Tacomas.... Dunno, this is something I can't seem to stop kicking around...

All the notes in white are mine. The notes in red were added by someone. This is an old design, and after the engine sat on the frame rails for a little bit it began to twist the rails, and the engine dropped almost 1". I designed a new one with 4" square tubing that just used the rail to bolt to. I wouldn't use the seperate mounts unless you reinforce the frame rails substantially.

2 years later - and I'm thinking about it again.... it's funny how you come back to stuff. I have a POS 2000 Honda Civic EX that does the craziest stuff - stereo turns itself off randmoly, weird electrical stuff, pops out of 2nd, AC rattles like crazy.... and it's only got 72k! So yea, I'm a little sick of it.... Might find myself a 240 again and do the swap.... could be a killer commuter, since I drive 36 miles each way to work.

Thanks for the pics Alex!!!

Ok Ron, you've got me going a lot more in the direction of an L28. Since this is supposed to be low buck (as in I can't do what I'd REALLY like to do because it's way too much money), I may just source up a complete L28, tank, ect. I realize that it'll take some tweaking to get it to work perfectly, but the thing is, once it's dialed, it's done. With the carbs, it's fine for a while, but then you get to do it all over again a couple times a year (especially when putting 30-35k miles on a year!). Knowing me (as you guys can probably guess from my last car) once it's dialed and working well for a while, I'll want to upgrade it a bit; you know, air filter (might do that first anyways), injectors, etc... but that will be later. Daily driver has to be reliable, so if I throw too much at it I'll have problems, and wind up commuting in my '02 Silverado that gets 16mpg. Thanks for the info, really helps me figure this all out.

Wow Ron that's a lot of help. That looks a lot simpler than I thought. If that's for the earlier ones, then I guess the EFI Z's I've seen must have been S130's, because I remember there being a LOT more to it, and piles of vacuum hoses. Yea, I thought about the Maxima setup. You may be right that's a better solution. They had L24's, after all. But if the above is all there's to it, seems like finding an L28 and all the parts is all I really need to do. I can live with the carbs for a while. There are Flat-tops in the car right now, but there are another 2 sets of round-tops, so if the Flat-tops crap out I can always swap 'em....problem becomes sync'ing them up, was never good at it.

I posted this in Fuel delivery but realized that it's not JUST about that, more of a general thing, so here goes. What is the bare minimum you need to have installed for the Nissan EFI to work? I'm guessing it's at LEAST these components: - Intake - Injectors - Throttle body - MAF sensor (or is it SD?) - EFI tank and fuel lines, fuel pump - Fuel pressure regulator (is that on the rail?) - O2 sensor - Computer and harness - Distributor I am thinking about putting this on an L24, but I seem to remember there being a difference between the 2 heads, that you could put the carb manifolds on an L28 head, but not the EFi intake onto an L24...are the heads cut at the intake ports for injectors on the top? With this setup correctly, am I looking at it being more efficient than the Su's, better gas mileage, etc? seems like it would be, more controlled mixture, etc. I figure that most of the pieces I could pick up at the pick n pull or something, so as long as I get good parts, it would be a solid system. I want to bare bones also since 1. I don't need to smog a '73, 2. the less to install, the less that can go wrong. This needs to be a reliable setup that gets good gas mileage since it would be my daily driver, 37 miles each way. Opinions?

You're right, after re-reading I did forget the pump and the dist / ignition. I'll check out those docs you mentioned. After looking through a bunch of pics, it seems I would have to swap heads because of the injector location anyways, which might not be worth it for compression reasons. I might be better off just getting a complete L28 and swapping that in. My reasoning for all this really is reliability. My commute is about to be 37 miles each way to work, sitting in traffic part of the time, and with gas prices the way they are I'd like it to be as good on gas as possible, while still being able to drive up and over the hill every day.

What is the bare minumum you need to have isntalled for the Nissan EFI to work? I'm guessing it's at LEAST these components: - Intake - Injectors - Throttle body - MAF sensor (or is it SD?) - EFI tank and fuel lines - Fuel pressure regulator (is that on the rail?) - O2 sensor - Computer and harness I am thinking about putting this on an L24, but I seem to remember there being a difference between the 2 heads, that you could put the carb manifolds on an L28 head, but not the EFi intake onto an L24...are the heads cut at the intake ports for injectors on the top? With this setup correctly, am I looking at it being more efficient than the Su's, better gas mileage, etc? seems like it would be, more controlled mixture, etc. I figure that most of the pieces I could pick up at the pick n pull or something, so as long as I get good parts, it would be a solid system. I want to bare bones also since 1. I don't need to smog a '73, 2. the less to install, the less that can go wrong. Opinions?

So anyone have any new ideas on this? I'm thinking of picking up that 240 in Santa Cruz, but I don't want to deal with the SU's very much.... I read a post the other day about a larger motor that had a single carb on it, any info on that? I want something simple to maintain, gets decent gas mileage (daily driver), and is reliable. The only thing I know that is iffy on a Z is the SU's, they need calibration every 10-15k. I saw a clifford intake on Ebay just the other day....that intake and a Holley 390 would run about $500 for the pair. Of course there's the throttle linkage to think of, fuel lines, etc.... Any ideas?

I did but the pics didn't look very good. I'm still stewing over the idea.....I know Davy and Alex are probably both saying "Buy it, buy it!!!"

So no one is interested in this car? I'm suprised. A lot of potential and extra parts for $1000.

I saw that car on Hot Rod Power Tour '97. I purposely parked next to it since it was a Z. At the time My wife and I were in my '66 Mustang. AWESOME car. Nice guy. He fit 275/40/17's under the stock wheelwells. He wasn't quite finished with all the details when we saw it, but it was 95% there.

There were really only 2 reasons you needed to trailer it, 1. the clutch master doesn't have fluid and may be leaking, so you'd have to fillit and see if the clutch would even engage 2. The reg is from 2000, so you'd have to get a day permit. I figured I'd just throw some fluid in it, and see how the clutch worked. Then go down to Uhaul and grab a car carrier. Easy. Since it's a '73, you wouldn't have to smog it, you could just reg it and drive it.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/car/357114950.html I just checked this car out a little bit ago - it comes with a serious PILE of extra parts - this is a GREAT deal. I would have gone for it - but I really don't have the room for it, and the timing isn't good. It has the usual issues - rusty doors (but he has extras) and the hood is bashed in (but he has an extra, straight one). He said it has a new wiring harness, springs, and from what I saw the tires were good, the seats were pretty nice. The guy said he's make a smokin' deal if he could get it sold today 6/22. If it's still around on monday I might just go for it, but someone's gotta pick it up!!!

http://www.classic-celica.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=14450 I found this on the Classic-Celica board, mayeb someone here is interested. $1500 for the entire thing is a really good price. Sacramento area. NOT MINE!

From my experience, don't go past 10 degrees on timing. the engine will run hot and won't have much power. I set mine between 6-8 degrees. Past 10 it runs rough. Edelbrocks are easy to tune - check out the book that came with it, or you can download it from the web. It spells it out for you. If you're not familiar with carb tuning, I would start maybe 1 step above baseline (what it came with) and go from there. From what you have on the motor, sounds like you're running lean. I hope you haven't damaged anything, because if you got some pops while trying to accelerate it could have broken something.

You're escaping? Good for you!!! You'll be amazed how much easier life is anywhere else but CA. NC is a nice place to live, good luck man!!! When you leaving?

You know how many orange Z's I've had?? I think 5. Seriously, 5. And that's not exactly my favorite color for a car! Problem is, I may get out of hand again if I get a Z - I seem to get myself in trouble doing a project on one. That's the problem....plus I need something that gets good gas mileage. Does anyone know if the 4v manifold helps with the fuel issue? Does it run cleaner? I would guess it would, since Z's are inherently rich running.

So here I sit after months of scouring, and have 3 possible cars: 1973 Celica ST - $500. Complete but ugly. Needs body work and paint. I would strip it down to metal anyways. This is in Kennewick, WA, about 250miles from my house. 1973 240Z - $1000. Complete, plus extra parts, including doors, hood, carbs, etc. Body is KINDA straight, but it's of course ORANGE. This is in Santa Cruz, CA....about 30 miles from where we're staying in CA. 1962 Falcon - $1000. Complete, straight, but rearend is broken. I think it needs a battery too. It's also only 10 minutes from my house in Vancouver. I'm leaning towards the Falcon, just because there would be less work....but the Z is tempting because I could just clean it up, put the other hood on it, put different carb(s) on it (it has flat-tops right now) and go. The Celica would be a full on project, but I've wanted to do that for a long time. I have money to get any one of them right now...but my goals are gas mileage, ease of repair, and pre-smog. I am familiar with all 3 cars, I've had TONS of Z's, had a couple of Celicas, and lots of Fords; so none would be anything too shockingly new. It's more of bang for the buck. The Celica will be hard to find parts for, not matter what. There are no repop places for parts. Z's and Falcon's have tons of repop comapnies waiting to take my money. Problem is, the Falcon would get new brakes and a rearend before I would even drive it - I've driven old Fords with drums.....no thanks. Scary to say the least. But once you do a Maverick swap.....done. What do you guys think?

Hometown represent!!!! You find the new job in Vancouver or Portland? Keep in mind that OR has state income tax and WA does not. The same money gives you a larger paycheck in WA by far.

Actually from what I remember, they had plans to do that with all the way up to Z31's, but they didn't sell many of them. Mainly because they were over $25k. I know, I went down to the dealership to see one, it was a '71. It had a '72 console, and a bunch of mismatched year's parts on 'em. I'm sorry, but for that kind of money the thing better be correct. It was a nice idea, but just too much money. If it had been $15k, I would have considered it.

Oh yea, I see it now. Been a while. Jesus, one of those falls off and the whole freeway comes to a halt......scary.....

Wait, isn't that 90 just before you hit I-5? Where the hell was that guy going with all those pallets? He heading to the beach to start a bonfire or something? Dumb, just plain dumb.

Washington has a rolling 25 year limit. This year is 1982, so in 8 years or so even 1990 cars will be exempt. Plus I think the total is 6 counties in the whole of WA have inspection stations. Of course I live in one of them - Clark County!! I think the same goes for Oregon - but I might be wrong. I do know that most of Oregon doesn't have DEQ, just the urban areas. So pretty much the Portland / Salem area. Always hated smog laws in CA. I had a '66 Mustang I used to have to get smogged. Ran like complete garbage when I put that stuff on there, barely passed. I took the car back a couple days later with the way I usually had it tuned - and it was like 1/5 the emissions with the 4v and without the other smog crap. We had a good laugh.