alsil

OK, as a Mustang AND Z guy, i can tell you 2 very important things. In order to make the Nissan-spec T-5 work, you will need to not only change the bellhousing, but the input shaft as well. Make sure it's a 10-spline, also. but the main thing is that the torque rating on the pre-'86 T-5's (for Fords, anyway) is about 235-240lbs. Even with a stock 302 (275-285 ft/lbs) it would rip through it quick, since the Z T-5's don't even have the torque capacity the Ford ones do. I found a few T-5's on www.corral.net that were between $300-$500 complete, and you may wind up spending more trying to convert the one you have. And it would last longer. Go to: http://zcar.netdojo.com/t_5.html and check out the torque ratings of the Ford trannys. Kind of suprising! Al ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com [This message has been edited by alsil (edited January 23, 2001).] [This message has been edited by alsil (edited January 23, 2001).]

I'm getting a complete (with EFI and computer) '95 Mustang 5.0 and T-5, so I'll even have the A/C compressor! I don't know if I'm going to use that yet, but anyway.... As far asmounting the rack, you have to put it in line with the steering knuckles (at rest) to get a no-bumpsteer setup. I may have to cut out some of the stock perches, but not all. As far as clearence with a 350, I know there's only .5" between the stock rack and the harmonic balancer on that swap (at least on the JTR swap) so that may be an issue. The Ford motor has a smaller damper, and will sit VERY close to the firewall, so I doubt there will be clearence issue. But I'll see in about 2 weeks, when I drop the motor in. I test fit the tie rods last night and they went in about 1/4" less threads showing, but I know that I will just need to tighten it a few times to get it to fit right. No chance damaging the tie rod, since it's hardened steel, and the steering knuckle is cast. Very soon, though, I'll have it together. I'm also going to use half of the stock Mustang steering shaft and weld it to the Z reciever at the firewall so that it's a clean install. I'll have pics when I'm done. thanks for the compliments on the page, it's growing rapidly, as is the bill for the car. But that's the way a car project goes. Thanks, AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Since I'm getting a '95 5.0 and T-5 for my Z, I thought I'd check up on installing the power rack. Well, to my suprise it's almost a bolt in! There is some fabrication, but it's not much! Check out the swap at: http://zcar.netdojo.com/steering.htm Al ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Thanks, but that's not quite what I meant. I have a '71, and a '78 parts donor. I was going to just adapt the 280z door panels and armrests I have to the 240z door, but I have the full door, so I was just going to bolt it to the car. I know they have different internals, and the construction is a bit different, but I want to know if I can unbolt the 280 door and bolt it to the 240. I will use all the stock 280 internals. Sorry, probably should have been clearer. Thanks, AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Does anybody know if you can use '78 doors on a '71? I know the door panels and stuff are different, but is the actual door itself different? AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Hey any of you 300zx owners- I would like to put 300zx mirrors on my car, but I need 2 measurements first- the windshield rake and tumblehome. The stock '71 has a 43 degree windshield rake and 25 degree tumblehome. If it's close I can use it. Anybody know what these number are? I'd measure one here, but I don't know anyone with one out here. Thanks, AL Rake= degrees of incline from horizontal. Tumblehome= roof lean in towards center of car from vertical. ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

OK- let me see, the Maxima caliper bracket will bolt the Z32 rear caliper in the right position to accomodate the z32 rotor/parking brake assy, all you have to do is enlarge the mounting holes to bolt the backing plate to the hub? That sounds too easy. Got the pics, looks good, what about the price for all of these parts? that would really be the determining factor. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Let me know, too! I'd like to see what that looks like! Sounds pretty good! AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Actually, I thought about somehting this weekend, since I have been kind of worried about this brake problem. What about the Stainless Steel brakes kit for the disc conversion? The bracket for the caliper mounting looks flat, and the pattern is 5x4.5". Mike, What do you think? It has an E-brake provision, and good sized calipers. And the Rotors are vented. Should be able do something with that. I thought about it. Not much more than the swap you have, Mike. what do you think? ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

The problem with the Z32 calipers are that there is no E-brake provision. You would have to go and add another part just for that. Plus the price for the calipers is pretty steep. Kinda makes it tough to do it. If the price comes down, I might think about it on a race car. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

The problem is you can't buy them from Nissan any more, and they are getting scarce at the wrecking yards. That's why we're trying to find an alternative. Al ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

The strut assy's bolt in the same, the difference is in the stub axles in the back. I think everything stayed the same other than that. I would hold onto the 240 stuff, because if you ever want to do a CV axle conversion it's easier with the earlier stub axles. ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

I like the trans crossmember Idea! I was going to take some 2" and make a small crossmember that uses the stock holes, but they woould be tough to get to. I like your idea better, that way you use the stock Ford one. Problem is, I think it may be too wide. If you measure one before me, let me know if it fits. I have a month or 2 before I get to that, so I'd like to see if that works. Also, I am going to add a piece to the top of the crossmember mounting point to reinforce. I thought about drilling holes and bolting it through the frame, but I thought that would be a little tough to to correctly. I don't want this to be off. Thanks, AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Well, I've seen a couple, but I'm using a crossmember from Trans-Dapt. You cut it to size, weld the ends on, and weld it into place. I'm going to grind off the stock motor mount perches off the front crossmember to make room for the oil filter, and because it will just be in the way. I wanted to do it this way because it will be more sturdy, and will make the front end a little more rigid. Plus, I can place the engine exactly where I want it. But that's just for my project. If you want the Summit part # for the crossmember, I can find it. Thanks, AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Well, I've seen a couple, but I'm using a crossmember from Trans-Dapt. You cut it to size, weld the ends on, and weld it into place. I'm going to grind off the stock motor mount perches off the front crossmember to make room for the oil filter, and because it will just be in the way. I wanted to do it this way because it will be more sturdy, and will make the front end a little more rigid. Plus, I can place the engine exactly where I want it. But that's just for my project. If you want the Summit part # for the crossmember, I can find it. Thanks, AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Actually, that's offset you're talking about, Mike. It's usually 0 offset for 7 inches or smaller. The maximum backspacing in the front is 4.375" from wheel mounting surface to spring. On the rear is 5". So if you use 7" rims, you can use 4.5" bs on all and use a 1/4" spacer in the front. I don't know about coilovers. ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Actually, I have a new site - haven't finished it yet - not completely updated, but moving off the old host, got a new account, so I figured I'd redo the site! I have it linked now in my Signature, check it out, although some stuff isn't ther yet, but will be in a week or so. January 1st, the old site's gone. So I have until then. Al http://zcar.netdojo.com [This message has been edited by alsil (edited December 14, 2000).]

Well, in a few days I will post my rear disc/5 lug conversion on my site, which converts to Brembro discs and 240sx calipers using 81-82 Maxima caliper brackets. I have to put the page together. For the fronts, Mike (scca) has a 5-lug conversion using 300zx hubs and rotors with either Toyota 4x4 calipers or his own Outlaw calipers. Plus, Mike is the guy who supplied the parts for the conversion. Check those out, and maybe do a search on the page for 5 lug conversions, there have been tons of posts about that topic. Welcome to the site, pretty much anything you need to know, someone here can tell you. AL ------------------ http://refuse.netdojo.com/Zcar [This message has been edited by alsil (edited December 13, 2000).]

Well, as I go along, I will update my website. I can put everything in PDF format when I'm done, and we can either have it online as a manual, (with stuff from this forum added, as well as links to some of the discussions) and put up pages on this site itself. Just a thought. But I will document when I get into uncharted waters. I don't really have a preference to Ford/Chevy (hell, I own a '66 Chevy Pickup with a 350/T350 setup) but I like the advantages the Ford has over the Chevy in this swap. there has to be an easy, clean way to do it, and some have. Then we can share this for the other people who would like to do the swap. ------------------ http://refuse.netdojo.com/Zcar

You know, what about if we make one? I mean, with all of the people on this site, we should be able to pool enough info to have a pretty thick book!!! I am going to post all the details of my swap (haven't got there yet, but when I start to do it, I will post it all as I go along), and include part #'s and instructions. I'm using a FEW things from the JTR manual, so this will just be an add-on for the Ford engine/tranny combo only. The exhaust after the headers, driveshaft, radiator, and other stuff will remain the same (pretty much), except starter wiring. probably good for 30-40 pages of text and pics. I won't be to that point until March, but it's something to think about. ------------------ http://refuse.netdojo.com/Zcar

That's kind of the same thing as I've been thinking. I'll just reinforce the frame rails. I was going to grind off the stock motor mount perches, and clean it up, and use the crossmember from Summit. I'll post stuff about it on my site. AL ------------------ http://refuse.netdojo.com/Zcar

I was going to use a crossmember from Summit racing, that you cut down and weld-in, but this has made me think. would what I'm trying be strong enough? the bar is a tube about 2" thick, and pretty much goes under the stock oil pan, and weld on with 2 square ends (flat) about 3-4" wide. do you think I should add some reinforcement? I am going to add that 1x3 square tubing to make subframe connectors, but would this hold up? Thanks, Al ------------------ http://refuse.netdojo.com/Zcar

Damn! If you guys had started this 2 months ago, I would have gone for it, but I have already finished assembling my front suspension!!! Maybe when I upgrade the front brakes...... AL ------------------ http://refuse.netdojo.com/Zcar

Or, you could do what SCCA has said a few times- build an adapter to go from the Ford half shaft to the companion flange. I agree, the entire suspension would be kind of heavy, but it would also be sprung weight, and the Z is pretty light anyway. but the 8.8" rear end is pretty indestructable, so swapping that in would be benficial. How about this-swap in the differential, half-shafts, and use an adapter between the half shafts and flange? Sounds pretty strong to me. tougher to break than an R200 and easier to come by parts. ------------------ http://refuse.netdojo.com/Zcar

I have a dumb question- how adaptable is that rear end. seems to me you would have a few benefits - adjustablility, an 8.8" rear end and all of the ratio choices that go with it, and disc brakes from any T-bird/Mustang. They have tons of upgrades for calipers for that- like Brebro, Wilwood, etc. Might be an expensive propostition, but if you're going to redo your whole rear suspension anyway, and upgrade to discs/R200/CVaxles, might be a good upgrade. Just a thought. AL ------------------ http://refuse.netdojo.com/Zcar