alsil

Well, you know what, the stock Z seats are kind of low. I'm 6'3" and my head was at least 3 inches from the roof. I'm raising mine until I have about and inch. That way I can see better, too. the windshield isn't exactly huge, so better vision will be had since I will not see as much dash and more of the road. I was going to use some '95 Mustang seats, but they were from the guy I bought the engine from, and we all know how THAT turned out, so never mind. The Miata seats seem to be a good alternative. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site

Yea, but it's 4". Check out: http://www.vdona.com/Homepage/homepage.html The whole line is there. The cockpit series in black or white has a 4" Speedo or tach. Now you got me thinking about it!!!!!! AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site

I use VDO guages on my cars (my '66 Mustang, my '66 Chevy PU, my Z) and I have never had aporblem with them, accuracy wise or anything. I have a volmeter/ammeter/tach/dwellmeter combo(yes, it's hella old!) and I checked the tach I got for my Mustang, and it was dead on. Also, the one in my truck. My temp guage in my last Z was messed up, showed 225 no matter what. I checked it with another stock Z guage, and it showed 180. I got a VDO temp guage, and it read 180. I also checked it with a themometer and boiling water. I was determined to find out if my car was really running that hot! Well, it wasn't. I like the looks of the Autometers, and the fact that they make a 5" speedo and tach, but VDO does not, there's the only drawback. Maybe mix and match? I don't know, that's just the experience I've had with them. ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site

They are the ones that came on 1970 240's until 10/70. They are 10mm shorter, and were changed because the steering on the origionals were very stiff. But for racing/Autocorssing, I would definately put them on. You can get them from MSA, or find a '70 in the yard (yea right) and pull them. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site

Well, after spending all this time on the car, putting all the strongest stuff I could find in it all the way down to grade 8 bolts for all suspension, brakes, and steering, you think I'm crazy enough to run it at the strip? HELL YEA!!! I will do it one time, over here at Sears Point, just to see what it can do. If I go more than once, my Z will become a race car (the same thing happened with my Mustang, for 3 years) and I don't want that. I'll build another to race if that's the case. By the way, thanks for the tip, depending on how fast the stock motor is, I may go for a "B303" cam. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site

Ok, I have another question for you guys. How far does the bearing go in to the housing (outer) when it's seated? I thought the the bearing was close to the outer edge of the housing, but maybe I'm wrong. I haven't done the rears before, so I'm curious. Thanks AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

There is a BIG difference in the calipers. http://zcar.netdojo.com/upload/mvc-086s.jpg (240sx) http://zcar.netdojo.com/upload/mvc-093s.jpg (280zx) There's about 5/8" - 3/4" difference in the mounting ears - and the 280zx caliper does not work with this rotor and bracket combo. I am going to have to have my own made. The 240sx caliper cannot fit between the rotor and bracket. The 280zx caliper: http://zcar.netdojo.com/upload/mvc-090s.jpg sits 3/8" too far out from center and 1/2" too far back. Crap! I'll let you know about the brackets when they're done. I'll have pics and details. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

4 on 4 1/2". Standard for Toyota, Nissan. ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Mike, I'm seriously running out of time on this project. I can get the calpiers today after work if they work, and have this thing rolling by the end of the week. If you look at the pic on my page: http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/parts7.jpg These may be functional, but they are not the greatest looking, and the area around the pistons were a bit grungy (looks like it may be a little wet from fluid) so i'd rather play it safe and get new ones. Besides, I won't have to wait another few months for brackets. I have 3 weeks until this thing need to be a runner and I am STILL waiting on rear brakes, and my DAMNED ENGINE! I am willing to spend the extra money at this point to get it done. Besides, the front brakes, and all the suspension including bushings are all new, so I might as well go for all new while I'm at it. I'll tell you right now, my credit card company loves me right now! Thanks for trying to help, but I have to just take care of this right away. I am too far behind already. My trip is less than 3 months away and I still have to mount my engine, wire it up, get exhaust made, driveshaft, and fuel system. I can't even plan on this engine right now because the guy hasn't sent it yet. so if I don't get this one, I may wind up using a carberated motor, which will use a different fuel system (different pump, 2 fuel lines). I am installing 2 3/8" anyway, but the pump and fitting are the real crucial elements, and since the 5psi pump is a totally different design from the 90psi pumps, I cant make ones that fit both, so I have to hold off until I know that I have the EFI engine. As you can tell, I am very frustrated right now, and want to get this going so I can be sure it will make it across the country. Don't want to get stuck on the side of the road in Wyoming. Don't knaw anyone there. At least I have AAA Plus! AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Here's a pic of the way the 240sx calipers fit with the Maxima bracket: http://zcar.netdojo.com/upload/mvc-086s.jpg the mounting ears are too wide to fit between the bracket and rotor, as you can see from the pic. Can't even fit them between them at all. Now that sucks. Oh,and Mike, I found the 280zx calipers for $140 a piece, with a $60 core charge, but since I have the 240sx calipers, don't have to worry about core. I'm going to compare them today after work. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com [This message has been edited by alsil (edited February 08, 2001).]

I know what you mean, man! When I had the stub axles removed, the guys at the machine shop messed up the first 1/2" of my threads in the process, so I had to clean up the threads with a file and grinder. Couldn't even start the bolt. Have to be REALLY careful with these things! ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Mike, I installed the hubs on my Z yesterday, and they do not fit like the early ones. They do not go all the way on, they sit farther out. when using them on an early spindle, you have to use a spacer to bolt on the 300zx rotor. I had no problem, it even uses the same bearings. the only thing I needed to change was the rear seal. is this what's confusing you? That's the only way it will work. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

By the way, like I said on my site, you don't have to do a disc brake swap to do this conversion - just have your local machine shop drill out your drums for you. Same process as the disc - except that the machine shop with a press on a radius - much easier for them to do that way than measure the whole damned thing. Also, I didn't drill mine myself, I had it done - but that's because I really couldn't get it to go straight (might have been because it was 8am and I was barely awake) but if you have any doubts about drilling it - send it to the machine shop. Better that than spending the money for new stub axles - and starting over! AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

I was being conservative with my number, but I ran it through a program, and with stock Horsepower (215@rear wheels), 3:54:1 rear gear, and 3.35:1 1st, I should run 13.1-13.2 @ ~100 mph. That's just what the program said at 2500 lbs, which is about where my car will be at. I just know that the Z R200 will have a comparable parasitic loss to the 8.8 rear, because of extra parts, shorter shafts, but MUCH less wieght (stock mustang is in the 3750 range!!) so I should be playing with Vettes and Camaros with no personal losses. Should be fun. ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Sorry, that should be STRONGEST not stringest. Man, I have no excuse it's 1pm! ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Yea, you're probably right, but that was just what I had read in a Hot Rod. I just go for the stringest stuff either way. Safer that way. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Well, pretty much I'm going to use the '95 computer because it comes with the engine, and I ordered that book. I'm notreally worried about the engine being too powerful - at stock HP it should give me low 14's with my gearing. Maybe lower ET's, but I'll find out when I have it together. Pretty fast, already, and I'm not really looking to make a drag racer this time. I want a nice, comfortable, FAST car. I think this will qualify. Thanks for the help! AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

I posted my info on my site, check out: http://zcar.netdojo.com/5lug.htm I haven't done the parking brake cable yet, but getting close. If you're using the stock drums it has all the info you need. There are pics and the part # for the caliper bracket. Thanks, AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

What year Z is it and what Master Cylinder are you using? Is the larger resevior in the front or back? I have a hunch I know what it is. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Actually, a lighter car is tougher on a tranny, because there is not as much cushion. The car does not flex as much, therefore the tranny takes more of a beating. Well, at any rate, I would use as strong of parts as possible, unless of course you own a tranny shop. T-5's of any year are not exactly strong, but some can keep up. All int he way you use them. If you are rough and sudden with your shifts, the tranny will be eaten up. If you are smooth, it will last longer. ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Unfortunately, I'm not the one pulling the engine from the car, but I have ordered the book. Thasnks for the tip on the gas tank, I was wondering how I was going to push through a 3/8" hose while pulling through a 5/16"!!!! Thanks, AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

I don't know, I thought it would be more even if they were in the same line, so that if there was changing forces, they would even out side to side. But you never know. All I can think of is that there is some basic design flaw that they haven't advertised, and this is compensating for it. It's the only thing I can come up with. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

this does not make sense to me. How would staggereing the distance L/R between wheels make for better stability? You would htink that making the centers of the hubs exactly on the same line would make rolling resistance even side to side so the car would go straight! I have never noticed this, but you better bet that I will now look at it!!!! Never heard of this before. What's your opinion, Pete? AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Thanks, I'll look for it. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com

Anybody have the swap book for the EFI conversion? I am swapping in a 1995 302 and T-5 (complete with computer and harness!) and I have never done the EFI swap, so I wanted to look over the book so I know how to wire it up. Anybody have any idea where I can get the book? Thanks, AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com