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OK - anyone have the dimms on this engine? Looks like it would be bigger than a Z motor and maybe heavier, what do you think? AL

One thing though - be careful and make sure it's not the lowest point on the car. The last thing you want to do is lose the steering rack while the car is moving! AL

Thanks for the good words about my page. As far as the bumpsteer problem, so far I have had none, it seems to be very stable. The tie rods on the Z are a bit smaller than the Mustang ones height wise. So they sit a little lower than the stock ones. There is a little difference between the angles of the control arms to tie rods, but I have had no problems with this, like I said. There is enough room for the rack to be dropped a little (maybe an inch) but not much. This might help if there is a problem. AL

Yea, let me know when you do your swap, can you send a pic of the setup? Like to check it out. What exhaust do you have on it right now? Let me know! Thanks AL

Do you happen to know what the title was of that post? Can't find it. I'd like to take a look at that, haven't seen one in about 10 years. Thanks, AL

Bolts into the car like stock. Uses the stock pedal. I'll get you that address and post it, but here's the tech "hot line" so you can call them up and order one (probably easier) (810) 468-1356. AL

Yea, that's kinda what I was thinking. a Holley 390 or an Edelbrock 500. easy enough to tune. I wanted to have the stock motor, but with more reliablity. If I was that worried about efficiency, I would just do an EFI conversion and drop off the extra stuff (smog pump, hoses, etc.). But the carb will be cheaper, easier, and simpler to diagnose. That and we could use the stock fuel pump, exhaust, ignition, etc, except I would put a Pertronix module in the distributor (simple!). Thanks for the info! By the way, which manifold do you guys think would be the best for this application? any opinions on the MSA one? Know anyone with one? AL

Not sure, but I think it's a little more than an inch. Didn't measure, but the 2" that you said you had is more than enough. The clutch fork doesn't have to go all the way to the end of it's travel, just enough to disengage the clutch. It actually starts disengaging higher than I though when I first did it - had to readjust it when I got it going. AL

By the way - a detuned Ford or Chevy with 190hp will be good for 14's in the 1/4. A little fast for a first car!!!! Al

Nah, no V8's for this! I want to keep this as clean and easy as possible. Plus, for a first car, there shouldn't be a bunch of engineering going in. He needs to learn why things work the way they do, what better than a stock car? That way he can see how things fit together and learn how to put them together before learning how to MAKE them fit. He's seen me cuss and swear at my car, I doubt he wants to do that on his first car. I know I didn't! anyway, I also have a bunch of stock 6cyl parts left over from my car, so I could save him some money in the process. See, I'm matching him dollar for dollar, and helping him build it. So the more money I can save him, the easier it will be for him to build it. I mean, it's tough for a kid 14 or 15 to make decent money, why make it hard on him? Anyway, any others try out the manifolds? AL

You get more than enough travel. I am using it like I said, and I can adjust it anywhere I need it (within reason, of course), and it works very smoothly. Great setup! AL

You mean a hydrolic Master Cylinder, don't you? You have to use a pulling slave cylinder with the Ford tranny, so you couldn't use the stock Z one. anyway, I agree, from esperience of trying to get the cable to work, DON'T BOTHER! I tried MANY different ways, none could get me the throw I needed. There probably is a way, I just couldn't find it. I gave up and did the hydrolic setup. Glad I did, too, works great! AL

Well, I knew about the lean/rich condition - had a FEW old Ford 6's. The MSA manifold looks OK, seems to even it out a bit. Anyone use that one? I know the Clifford one doesn't try and equal length the runners like the MSA one. I saw one once from Carter that bolted onto the stock maifolds (where the carbs bolted on), so you would figure that would be as even as the stock config. I don't really want to use a dual-carb setup, just because of complexity. I know I could get it to work, but my son is just learning. Al

My son and I have been talking about what kind of car we're going to build him for his first car, and he's pretty sure he wants a Z! But I don't want his first car to be a scary fire breating 12 second V8 car. I was planning on finding a good L28 and rebuilding it with just upgraded stock components. I was wondering 2 things, have any of you guys used a 4V carb with one? I figured that it would be the easiest and most reliable way to do it (plus I already have a 500CFM Edelbrock he can use), but was wondering how good it works. I have seen the intake MSA sells, I know either Carter or someone made one also, had anyone had any experience with it? About 10 years ago my friend came across a NAPCO motor from Japan that had the single 2V version of the Z intake, and I rebuilt the carb and ran it, it ran great, and was easy to adjust. Anyone have one of those (FAT CHANCE, but what the hell?). Just trying to make him a reliable car. I of course will upgrade his brakes, suspension, steering, driveline (5-speed and R200). Just want the motor to be solid. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks AL

Well, maybe I can help you out on all your questions: The clutch setup with the Tilton MC and the Neal Pulling slave cost me less than $200 total. Found the slave for $60 and the MC for $70. The bradied hose was $15. That was it. You have to thread the stock Z clevis for fine thread (I can get you the exact thread if you want), otherwise it's easy. I have used it for almost a month. Very solid feel, very nice! As far as the engine mounts, check out the one I made: http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/motormountdrawing.jpg it's the easiest way I have seen. Terry's plates work great, too, just another option. As far as the harness, wrap the unused wires ends with electrical tape, pull the wires up and out of the way so they don't fall on exhaust or anything. Having the wires unhooked and covered will be fine. As long as the stock 5.0 harness is clean and intact, you should be able to use it. Ford Racing makes a swap book, and it's $5 through Ford in Dearborn. I can get the address for you also if you like. I have the book and it's VERY thorough. Makes it seem easy. Good luck!! AL

Well, I haven't had too much time in my car yet, but here's my observations so far about my brakes: I have the 300zx rotor/hub/4runner caliper setup front, 280zx caliper/rotor in back. I also have the stock booster and master cylinder. Before the power booster was hooked up, took it around the block. the brakes were solid but not too heavy. After, they were light, but not too light. Didn't feel overboosted or anything. Solid feel, stops QUICK. Just my $.02

Thanks! I like VDO guages, as I have used them in my old '66 Mustang, my current '66 Chevy truck, and my Z and have found them VERY accurate. Thanks for the info! Al

OK, I'm digusted. I need to put some REAL guages in my Z, since the stock guages and sender are showing me some crazy readings. I want to install 2 guages - a water temp and oil pressure guage, both electrical. Need to know what size works, 2 1/16 or 2 5/8, how you guys have installed them, stuff like that. Want to know what's REALLY going on in my engine compartment. Thanks, AL

I will answer a few of your questions, but I'm assuming you don't want to go without an e-brake. the sentra calipers are FRONT calipers int hat conversion. that has been brought up on this site, but wasn't talked about much, since there are better ways. The swap I used is the 280zx calipers, custom brackets and 5-lug conversion, but you can also use the stock 280zx rotor if you use the Maxima caliper brackets. It's 82-83 calipers, 81-82 Maxima caliper brackets and the stock 280zx rotor. it's a bolt on, but you have to remove your stub axle to install any of these kits. Mike Gibson (mike@fonebooth.com) can supply the pieces, and Mike Dennis (mdennis@ksplastic.com) can make either bracket. You will need to either use 80 Toyota pickup rear axle hoses for the caliper to frame fitting lines, or pull some off a 82-83 280zx at the wrecking yard. Also, to attatch the e-brake cable, take off the stock mount, but hang onto the clip. slide the cable for the e-brake into the support on the caliper and use the clip to secure it. take the pin out of the clevis and slide the clevis over one part of the claw. push the pin through and put the cotter pin in. that's it. pretty easy. You may have to adjust your cable at the handle, because this shortens the trow of the cable, so you need to pull the cable more at the handle. That's it. Good luck.

email Mike (mike@ksplastic.com) about the caliper brackets. it uses the 280zx calipers, the bracket he makes, and a brembro rotor. That will change your rear hubs to 5-lug, also. See: http://zcar.netdojo.com/5lug.htm for that conversion. If you want to keep it 4, just use the Maxima caliper bracket (tough to find, although Mike can also make that), the stock 280zx rotor and caliper. make sure to use 1980-1983 toyota 4x4 rear brake hoses for the swap, since the calipers don't have the flared fittings already on them. You need 2 of the hoese. They are a bit long but you can wrap them around the e-brake bracket. As far as the ebrake, take everything off your ebrake cable except the clevis, slide the cable part through the u- shaped retaining bracket (end of the caliper) and put the clevis over one end of the claw. push your pin through and put in the cotter pin, take the stock "U" shim that holds the cable on the stock bracket, and tap it over the cable at the side closest to the rotor. That's the easiest way to hook up the e-brake cables. You also have to wrap the cable UNDER the half shaft, not over like stock, or it will rub, plus it's a straighter shot at the bracket. Look at this pic: http://zcar.netdojo.com/upload/mvc-354s.jpg on the bottom right you can see the u-shaped retaining bracket and claw. also, on the left, you can see the end of the cable. you have to remove the stock retaining bracket (the L-shaped bracket that bolts to the top of the hub) and remove it from the cable, but hold onto the retaining clip, so you can use it on the caliper. I will have pics of the finished setup soon. Didn't have the camera around when I got it together, and I wanted to drive my car!!! AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site

Crap! You're right, good catch! I forgot the spacer goes ABOVE the steering knucke, not below. Soory, hadn't looked at a pic lately. DOH! AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site

Got mine complete with an engine. Should be able to go to a place like www.stangparts.com and order one from a wrecked car. That's where I got my steering rack, just look up the part you want. Might want to get upper and lower together, not sure whether you can just bolt the newer upper intake to the older lower one. You never know. They may not have changed the lower at all. But seems like you can win some room that way. Al ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site

Yea, I ran into the same problem. I used shorter bolts and discarded the center "sleeve" of the link. Then I bolted it together. Makes it tough to bolt iton since it's a bit offset and the longer link accomodates that, but doable. You can kind of see it in this pic: http://zcar.netdojo.com/upload/mvc-354s.jpg At least you can see how much space there will be. I will see if it makes a difference in the stiffness. Al ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site

All the spacers between the control arm and the bottom of the strut do is lengthen the sturt assy. it does NOT change the angle of the tie rod, since it is below the spindle. Camber is NOT adjustable on a Z unless you use camber bushings on your control arms, which give you about 1-1.5degrees of adjustment, or camber plates on the top of the strut assy, or slot out the holes on the top of the strut tower. Slottin ghte holes will only give you an extra .5degrees. Camber plates are the only way to get a substantial amount of camber adjustment. There are guys on this site who have adjustable control arms, they may work for you. Just some options. AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site

From where the upper intake bolts to the lower, to the highest point on the intake, is 4.5". What is yours? AL ------------------ http://zcar.netdojo.com My Upcoming Solo Album Site