Iceman

Wow, very nice work and quite inspirational. Great camera too!

Yup, there's my baby. I have a brand new rear-mounted gel battery, so i've never had a problem with the battery going bad. When I bought the car though, it had a dinky standard battery, which didnt work very well. However, the solenoid for the door use so little power that even when I left the lights on through an 8-hour workday and they were just that faint orange, barely can tell they are on, the door opened up just fine. The battery on the remote is a different story, but you can tell that it is getting low when your range shortens. As I am rebuilding my Z, I am going to be putting a solenoid in the passenger door too, activated by a button on the center console. (Leaning across to open the passenger door is a little lame). I am also going to use same-pole magnets in the door frame to make the doors pop out further, and I plan to have a magnetically controlled relay hidden in the door so I can waive a small magnetic "key" to activate the solenoid. The "key" is also going to activate a hidden ignition switch inside the car.

Well, I am now about 1/3rd of the way through removing it. Ended up being a classic example of spotting a tool and saying "hey, i'll bet that'll work". I am using a hosehold moulding pry bar as a chisel. Turns out most of it is pretty brittle as I get towards the middle, so it is coming off pretty easily. The floorboards are a different story. I'll probably drop the dry ice on them. Thanks for the input everyone!

I'm kinda surprised about the referrences to building a Chevy 302. I talked about building one of those a good few years ago and got flamed like I was in hell. Nice to see there is some interest in it. Chevy 302 can be good to about 9K RPM if blanced well. Great package for the Z because it doesn't hit with too much torque off the line.

As the title says, I'm looking for a steering rack for a 240Z. I've been advised that racks for the other S30s will work if I get the mounts too. Hoping to not spend too much, just trying to save myself a trip to pick-n-pull if anyone in my area happens to be parting out a Z.

I was reading in the JTR (Jags that Run) conversion book, and it says and shows that the '70 240Z console is shorter than all of the other models, and the shift is slightly further back. It also says the later consoles wont fit in the '70 240Z, but it fits just fine in mine. The VIN identifies it as a '70 240, as does the registration. Anything else that I can look for to identify it as a '70 240Z or not? I'd really like to not have any doubt.

I seem to recall seeing a thread a few years back with diagrams for building weld-in V8 mounts as opposed to the multi-piece mounts that you can get from JTR, or fab, etc. Basically it was building a mount that would be like a native Chevy V8 mount, welded to the frame. Does anyone know what I am talking about? I couldnt seem to find it by searching.

If I go V8, this is probably going to be my exhaust choice too. I am planning on getting an in-line exhaust dump valve so I can pull a cable and bypass the muffler and dump down. A good option is these oval pipes I have seen before. Gives you really good flow without getting too close to the ground.

I'm 28 and I've had my Z since 2003. I always liked the look of the Z and never actually had any idea about the performance. I've always liked the compact size too. My Dad got me into classic cars a long time ago, and my first oldie was mý '65 GMC. After having my '89 honda prelude for a few years, I decided my next car was going to be RWD and smog exempt After searching for a few months, I found my 1970 240Z in excellent condition. It was a little more than I was hoping to spend ($3500), but already had a late-model 280, T5, and rear-end swapped in, as well as adjustable coil-overs in the rear, and a very clean body.

The right side is the only one i have a spare of. If you want both, I suppose I can part with them right now (I am planning on making fiberglass ones soon). I dunno what a fair price would be, maybe $15 each and I can meet you somewhere in the bay area so you don't have to pay for any shipping.. I'll post the pics later today. I'll take another look at them to inspect for any weathering or anything.

Very nice. Can't wait to see more.

I have a black door panel and i'm near the bay area. i'll take a pic of mine for you too. it's in decent condition. I'm pretty sure all of the years are the same.

I just got the idea to try putting it in my oven on a low temp on my pizza stone (makes stuff crispy). How hot do they say a closed up car gets in the sun? Like 150deg?

Oh.. no doubt that a V8 is more bang for the buck, especially SBC 350. A stroker 6 compared to a V8 is dollars to the penny. There's just something unique about popping the hood and showing that 6, as well as knowing you blew away a mustang or camaro while having a smaller, still N/A, engine. Ain't HP/Weight ratio a beautiful thing?

very nice flatblack! Now if it just had a $ amount next to each btw Khamie, what is your HP goal? I have a 280 engine that is stock except that I have SUs instead of the FI it came with, so I figure I am getting around 130-140HP based on original specs. I'm shooting for around 200HP, which I think an N/A stroker can do. I have really low gears and my Z is a 1970(lightest), so it already runs like a scared rabbit , I'd just like to have a good bit more on tap without getting myself into trouble.

I was looking for this info too. The info in your post is about all I could find when searching. I dont remember right off-hand what the compression ratio is, but I believe I figured 89 octane would be good. I think I've read that properly tuned SUs will flow enough to get great performance, but definitely not going to get you the most power you can get with the stroker. I started losing interest mostly due to the cost. Dropping an N/A mostly-stock V8 302 or larger is going to give about the same power as you can max out at with an N/A stroker, and cost several $100s less. We'll see if I got anything wrong here and someone corrects me

As far as I know, a head gasket problem will normally result in an exchange of both oil and coolant, so your oil is definitely going to be a good indicator at this point. Any milky/chocolate mixed in it, like z-ya said, is going to confirm if there's any coolant in it. You didn't forget to check your thermostat, did you?

Oo, good idea. Clothes dryer sounds good too.. maybe just have the wife leave a scrap of the fabric in the dryer with all of the loads for a week.

I guess i should have been more specific.. trying to simulate an extended period of time of exposure.