Iceman

It can be tricky. I normally use a skinny screwdriver and poke at the open end of the clip until one side or the other pops out of it's groove.

Here's my idea: Install hidden cell-phone with Verizon's chaperone app on it. Then I can track my car myself if it gets stolen. Personal lo-jack that you can deal with however you wish for only a few bucks a month

Yeah, kinda. It bent and popped out of the bottom. The top stayed bolted at the top.

Ouch indeed! Got hit on the freeway, spun 180 and slid into one of those triangle islands for an on-ramp. Here's the one that didnt shatter

Very nice work! It always amazes me when I see quality DIY paint jobs like this and then see the pathetic paint jobs from the factory on brand new cars, even luxury cars.

Mine..

Here in NorCal, the thieves just drill them out anyway. There's other ways too that make it pretty easy. About the only thing you can do is have accessory insurance on your car and hope for the best.

I hooked up an electric fuel pump and a regulator in my truck for around $60 total. The price difference between the two doesnt have to be huge. If you go to electric, make sure you get an oil pressure switch so it turns off if your engine dies or you get into an accident. I like electric because you can have a hidden switch to turn it on. If someone tries to steal your car, they might get a few blocks down the road with what's in the bowls before the engine dies and they need to ditch the car.

It's all about hydroplaning (gliding on top of the water with little to no traction). It doesnt matter how much weight you have, once you start to hydroplane, you are just a passenger. Whenever I drive any car in the rain, over 40mph, I move the steering wheel a little bit each way to feel the responsiveness and to make sure I'm still gripping the road. With enough rain, you can be completely hydroplaning at any speed over about 35mph. Narrower tires will help against this like a couple people have said. I dunno about riding a motorcycle though. Between the oil buildup on the road, and the fact that the bike is gone if the brakes lock up, I wouldnt really consider it safer. I've been in an accident in the rain in my Z (t-boned by a drunk driver) and an accident in the rain on my bike (someone turned in front of me and I got on the brakes and the bike disappeared from under me because of the slick road) and I came out of the one with my Z in much better condition.

Found some old pictures.. here's some pics of my accident in '03. Got t-boned by a drunk driver. I guess these are my "before" pics as far as my current build-up goes.

Well, I guess what I meant was I couldnt find information on this topic.

My Z is pretty rust free. Always been a CA car. The stock rails look great except for a few small dents on the underside from my accident. I'll post a pic later.

You can probably get 20-25mpg pretty easily with any well-tuned setup. Your HP goal is probably going to be the most important factor. You can get a bit more power if you swap to an L28 engine. What are you trying to obtain that you don't have right now, just a higher power-band? More HP?

My thought exactly. I hope he has some form of grill in front of it, but it doesnt look like it. Even bugs getting sucked in could be bad.

With the vague nature of your question, you are probably already in a lot of trouble. You didnt even mention what grade level or form of chemistry. Unless you have specific questions about hydrocarbons and combustion, I wouldnt expect much help here. BTW, I know enough about chemistry to blow any beaker to smithereens.. if that will help, PM me.

I have a 1970 240Z and I am planning on going for a SBC 350 and a HP goal of ~300. I believe that puts the torque in the 350lb/ft range too. This is mostly going to be a daily driver with ~8" rear tires. It will also have 5spd manual, and R200 with some low gear ratio. I am very unlikely to ever visit the drag strip, but there will be plenty of times where I will be punching it pretty hard on the streets. So my question is.. do I need to do chassis reinforcements/new frame rails? I can't seem to find any general guidelines, and I know there are a number of things to consider, so I hope I gave the important ones. I am hoping that I wont need them as there is no way I will be able to do the rotisserie route. Flame me if you want, but I searched and browsed and couldnt find an answer to this question..

UGLY! IMO I'll see if I can dig up my before pictures. I have a silver 240 that I bought with gold center enkei mesh wheels. One of the first things I did was painted over the gold with black.

I may be wrong, but adding a supercharger is going to make the two sound almost identical. The sound of the intake is going to be very different than the sound of the carb alone. I've searched around a bit for this same idea (I have an L28 turbo block with SUs) and have found that it is very unlikely to be successful. From what I have read, there just arent any side-drafts that are designed in such a way that they would work with supercharging. If you really want to go with a supercharged setup, I would recommend switching to EFI, getting a centrifugal supercharger, and blowing through an intercooler just like the turbo guys do. A supercharger would definitely be a wicked package since there is no lag. Personally I abandoned the supercharger idea since my HP goal is about 300, which can be fairly easily obtained with a N/A SBC 350.

Very nice! I dunno what part of CA you are in, but if you decide you want them chrome, there is a powder-coating shop in Rocklin that can powder-coat nearly any material. I forget what show I was at, but there was someone who had done just that.. chromed fiberglass. I keep wanting to get around to doing some fiberglass. I'd like to make some doors with a box steel frame and fiberglass skins like I've seen a couple times in kit car magazines.

Again, are you looking for one wheel? If so, I have one...