Iceman

I have a superflow straight-through. It's pretty quiet if I'm careful. Used to have a resonator in the middle, but I took it out. Doesnt seem to be any difference in volume when I am being gentle, but sounds absolutely beautiful when I get on it hard.

I have a little 110v mig welder that I think cost about $200 from harbor freight. I was an absolute beginner and only knew the basic concepts and knew I needed a mask. Too bad I didnt know I should have paid more for one that covers the neck too.. ouch.. It was pretty easy to jump into and start welding. Didnt take long till I was making statues out of old exhaust clamps.

My understanding of control arms is that the length relationship between upper and lower doesnt really matter, the most important part is that the outer pivot point be parallel or behind the lower pivot point or you will introduce positive camber when the wheel goes up. I'm sure someone will chime in with a more scientific answer though.

Yeah, I commute 80 miles each day and there are charging stations close to each end. You've successfully increased your thread-count and your point is noted. I asked because you only get a few examples on ebay, etc. I asked because there's a lot of room for "around here they are easy to find and go for..." and "i normally see.." FYI, I just checked eBay and found 1 for $7800.. I doubt that is indicative of general price.

I know the pick-n-pull in Rancho Cordova normally has a good handful of Zs. That's probably well over an hour away, but might be worth the drive. I'm probably heading over there soon for some from front springs. I can check for (and maybe pull) some stuff for you and bring it home. I live in Vacaville, so I might be within your range.

Thanks. I'll admit I didnt check craigslits because I am leary about purchasing anything from there, but I could have looked for examples of price and condition. Hey, wonder if that first guy will trade for my CRX Do you have any opinions about the roadsters?

You often dont get a very accurate representation of the condition of rare cars and how you normally find them in the real world when you go to craigslist, ebay, etc. I've checked a few times on ebay (no, I didnt search at the time I started this thread) and have normally seen just fully restored ones. I was hoping people might chime in on ones they have actually seen around. I guess I should have put more emphasis on what people's opinions and feedback on the model as that was more of what I was intending to ask.

I've been considering getting an old datsun roadster as a commuter. (Still keeping my Z). I think a nice DOHC 4 would be a nice package for good mileage and plenty of guts for a bit of fun. An electric conversion would be pretty cool too. So I have a couple questions.. How hard are they to find? What kind of condition would I expect to find one in? How much should I be expecting to spend? Anyone have one? Any general comments on the roadster? (i.e. dont get one because ___) Anyone seen one converted to electric?

I think that's what year mine came from. Thanks for reminding me to try to put it in That gives me another small project to work on while my Z rebuild is in progress.

That sounds like how I got the engine that I have. The guy who put it into my GMC got it from a full-size blazer that got stuck on RR tracks while messing around 4-wheeling in Placerville.

You could get one with Dolby Pro Logic if you want that concert feel (The rear speakers would have almost no vocals)

The carb I have is tuned pretty good, but I suppose I could take it to someone and get it tuned even better. It gets about 13mpg average in my '65 GMC with TH400 and 410 rear-end which I've heard is pretty good, especially since my foot sits on the floor a lot . The sound is pretty unique, especially when I pop the secondaries open. It's interesting how much difference there is in sound between different carbs. I used to have another 4-barrel that had same size secondaries as primaries and they opened right off idle, but about 1/2 the rate that the primaries did. That made for a very NASCAR type sound around 4K-5K RPMS. Sometimes I wonder if I might get better mileage with this carb over EFI since it pretty much just runs on the primaries when you are cruising. The A/F ratio has been one of the things that has plagued me. I can't get it to not ping in the high (4500+) RPM range. Anything under 4500 it runs nice and clean and the plugs look perfect though. But... I was just reading somewhere that that might have more to do with the HEI dizzy that I have. Apparently HEIs from the '80s were known to be sporatic at 4500+...?

Do you want a pic of the good one, or do you need a set?

Cool. I think it's third gen that I like the look of, where it looks kinda like a spider sitting on top. Am I correct with the understanding that with EFI engines, changes like new cam are automatically adjusted for by the ECU as long as the injectors can handle the extra demand?

Thanks. I've been trying to think of how much I want to spend, because if I save some of that then it gives me more money for stuff like wheels and paint later. I live in northern CA, so having to deal with winter starts isnt really a big concern, so EFI;-) may not be that much of a benefit. I guess what I would be looking to get from it would be running cleaner and maybe a little bit better mileage. Since my goal is around 250-300HP from a SBC 350, I think I can get that pretty much no matter what. If I pull from a junkyard, is all of the wiring one big blob, or is the engine management stuff separate? Would I have to use the entire wiring harness in place of what I have?

I don't remember where i got the kit for my SUs, but I think it had a few pieces for each carb. I think I just got it from Kragen, and pretty cheap. There's really not much to these carbs, so you are probably fine with whatever you find. One tip.. while you have them off, do some very light sanding inside so the piston(?) moves freely up and down. Mine would stick just ever so slightly, causing the car to lag and then jump when I would accelerate from a stop. Made it quite hard to leave a stop light or stop sign without a nearby cop thinking i was trying to screw around.

Yep, that will work. Just make sure you let the amp do all of the work. Don't turn your volume up on your ipod or phone more than about 1/2 way. If you have an ipod, you might even want to find somewhere to stick a dock for it. I have a PSP and have a dock that I can set in a perfect spot on my dash in my other car and I can even use the remote for the dock to skip/play/pause, etc.

Are you just looking for one? Like for a spare? I have one good one left after an accident. You cant have this one though

I was originally planning to put my '88 Chevy 350 in my Z with a rochester q-jet spread-bore carb. Then I started thinking about using one of the all-inclusive TBI kits for around $1200. Then I started wondering about getting a stock TBI setup on ebay. Then I started wondering about just finding a donor car with FI and pulling everything on my own (might hit a budget limit)... So I am faced with deciding which way to go, and how much risk there is of me getting in over my head trying to do a FI swap (especially with wiring). Any opinions on wether it's worth the effort for a daily driver? (My goal is around 250-300HP) Any opinions on the TBI kits vs finding a donor or snagging a stock setup off ebay. (I see a lot of the stock setups for only a few hundred $ or less) I'll admit I'm a rookie and haven't done an engine swap before. I understand most of the principles, but even the JTR book seems a little daunting when it comes to the transmission section. What I'm currently working with: '70 240Z '83(?) L28 w/ SUs T5 trans (pretty sure it's a borg-warner) Budget: $2K to start with

I vote for putting the engine size as number of liters.

Might be able to fab up some spacers to run with the 3webs to increase the runner length. That will drop your torque band down some. I have SUs on my L28 and have thought about doing that. There's already about 3/4" spacer that I'm not sure if it's stock, or something the previous owner added. Are you allowed to do that kind of mod in racing..?

I clicked on this hoping someone put a blower on an L24 My condolences. I'll bet an L24 w 3web could put out some serious power. I'll bet you would be able to attain similar HP as an L28, just at a higher RPM. Get that engine balanced really good and let it sing.