AlbatrossCafe

I try to utilize old threads instead of creating a new one and getting the dreaded "DID YOU EVEN SEARCH?" reply. However, that is very unfortunate...

Got a response back from zcardepot... "Some years have to be machined on the inner lip to a larger bore. You can send it to a machine shop or just use a die grinder." So I guess I am expected by them to make this modification if I want to use the spacers Oh well.

What exactly would that difference be, and why would a 7" vs 8" wheel affect it that much?

I don't think so... I scraped off the gunk from that inner bit with a flathead screwdriver and that flathead wasn't getting caught on anything. Plus the previous owner left this car 98% stock so I doubt he would have randomly added a spigot ring (especially for OEM wheels). Gonna try to really clean off everything really well as @NewZed said and see one more time if I can make it work.

Nah, I think I know how much I would need them to bore out. I found there was a machine shop that specializes in auto stuff and especially on wheels so I'll give them a holler and see what they recommend.

Could I have a machine shop bore out the center just a bit more so that it fits?

Hey all, bought a pair of wheels with some positive offset, so I got a set of 25mm wheel spacers all around to make them fit. I went with the pair listed at zcardepot: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was hoping this would "ensure" that they fit all around (since zcardepot specializes in z-cars) but alas, the fronts do not. On the front (stock) hub, it seems that rubber-ish (might just be gunk lol) piece sticking out doesn't clear the center bore of the spacer. I need about 1/8" more clearance. See the following pics. Should I have expected this? Is there just gunk build-up on my car that needs to be cleaned off? What is this rubber extension anyway? Am I screwed unless I get new hubs? FYI - the wheels themselves have 73.1mm inner bore (~2 7/8") and would likely fit on the hub if they were correct offset. I have to use a hub ring to properly center them on the spacer outer edge. Gap when fitted: The center bore appears to be machined out to compensate, but it is just a bit too narrow: OEM wheel has 2 7/8" inner bore: Spacer has 2 5/8" inner bore:

Which power steering kit did you get? @socorob

Thanks for the insight. The interior is actually very clean for its age, which is nice because I plan to keep that mostly stock. The turbo motor is definitely money saved for me in the long run as I would have done it anyway. As far as the exterior goes, I prefer not to do a lot of rust repair / body work because that is not something I'm comfortable doing myself. I didn't even think about checking bushings and hoses because I have not ever bought a car of this age before. I will have to investigate those during my next viewing, as well as how thorough the rust is. The couple rust spots were mainly on the lower panels in the car (like I could look through the tiny holes and see the road). The worst of it was on this little "extra" looking trim piece between the rear of the car and the big fat 280Z rear bumper. This doesn't seem to be a piece that is on the 240 Z with the smaller bumper, so I think I can at least disregard that rust if I plan a bumper swap. There was no rust in the engine bay except on the battery tray a bit. I am like you and very impatient haha. I always need something to work on. Plus in my five or six weeks or so of searching, I have not found something local with the turbo swap done until now, esp with the rest of car unmolested. I was also thinking $7xxx because of the rust and questionable Driveline noises combined with the fact that the tires on there will definitely need replacement. But after reading your comment it made me realize that this car sounds like an almost perfect starting point for me, so I may pony up for it anyway lol

Update: I test drove this today. The engine runs strong. However, there is some squeaking when the wheels turn (wheel bearings?) And when you let the clutch out there is a clunk, almost like the universal joint on the drive shaft is loose or going bad. The exhaust at the tip is not connected to the mount and when you really get on it it will rattle against the mount. These are things which are not too bad of a fix, but I think it diminishes his price a bit. Any input?

Hey all, Recently looking at getting into older Z's. Was gonna do an L28ET swap as my first foray into engine swapping (given its apparent simplicity) but if I can avoid it I would rather do that and focus on the more "fun" parts for me (suspension, bodywork). I found a 1978 280z 5 speed with '82 zx turbo motor and oil cooler for sale locally. Guy has owned it since 2004, did the swap himself, and driven for ~3k miles a year. It is right at 100k miles and garaged when not in use. Looks like pretty much stock everything else (suspension, driveline, body, interior, etc.) Body is mostly straight but has a few quarter-sized holes as well as 2-3 rust spots spots. He is asking $9,995, what do you guys think is fair?